UKC

Multi Pitch Climbs in El Chorro

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 Heggie 04 Feb 2016
Is anyone able to make a few recommendations for multi pitch routes beyond the often mentioned Amptrax and Zeppelin? I found this handy list of routes from 5+ to 7a on Bernabe Fernandez' website. 7a is definitely at my max! I was wondering if anyone can speak to the quality of the routes or offer any other recommendations. I'm going in April so it might be good to know which are shaded routes in the gorge if it starts to get a bit too hot.

Thanks!

EBOLA 155m,6b+
APOCALIPSIS 210m,6c
CORAZON QUE NO SIENTE 220m,6c+
MAR DE FUEGO 210m,7a
ESPOLON ODERSE 120m,V+
ZEPPELIN 300m,6c+
PROYECTO AMPTRAX 165m,6a/+
MAL DE OJO 310m,7a
SEMILLA DE ORO 220m,6c+
LLUVIA DE ASTEROIDES 250m,V+
ESTRELLA POLAR 280m,6b

His topos are here if anyone is interested: http://www.bernabefernandez.com/cursos/actividades-guiadas/
 Snot 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:

Valentine's Day is worthwhile. 6a towards the right end of Frontales.
 thedatastream 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:

Another vote for Valentines Day

No match for climb id:112704 is also a nice easy climb, especially if it is wet. The difficulties only occur in the top couple of pitches.
OP Heggie 05 Feb 2016
In reply to thedatastream:

Thanks for suggestions.

I have a feeling I may have done Rogelio a few years ago. The description of a few pitch 4c route with a much longer extension, not in the guide and with harder pitches at the top is familiar.
 johnmctighe 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:

Another vote for Valentines Day.
Also there's a nice 8 pitch 5+ route called Rain of Asteroids near Amptrax that's very good.
It runs the full height of Frontales and you get to walk off down the back. First pitch is the hardest too which is kinda reassuring.
Edit I see you've mentioned it - "LLUVIA DE ASTEROIDES".
 1poundSOCKS 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:

Estrella Polar is really good, and can be done in 5 linked pitches with a 70m rope. See my comments in the logbook. The top pitch is a bit loose, so be careful. For the descent, don't go down the 1st gully like we did, use the Arab steps.

Zeppelin is superb, and a lot harder. Beware the 6b+ (crux???) pitch. Again, see my comments in the logbook.
OP Heggie 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:
Africa (6b+) in the gorge gets rave reviews from some. Though basically a trad route due to terrible bolts apparently.
Post edited at 13:40
Bartek 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Heggie:

Thumbs up for Africa. However, I am not sure how access there looks like after refurbishment of Caminito del Rey.
 1poundSOCKS 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Bartek:

> However, I am not sure how access there looks like after refurbishment of Caminito del Rey.

Dead easy, or was for Zeppelin at least. Jump over the wall by the green bridge, go over the bridge and through the tunnels. And reverse to get out. There were plenty of people on the tracks, not just climbers, so it doesn't seem to be well policed.
Bartek 05 Feb 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Happy days, no change then if the bridge and the tunnel are still in the game .

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