UKC

Not a lot on the conditions page to go from (which maybe tells its own story), so I wondered if anyone can comment whether the turf up high is sufficiently frozen before today's big dump insulates everything. How about ice?

We're heading up on Tuesday evening for four days exploring based out of Crianlarich. Good low temps are forecast though I don't think there'll be time for Udlaidh to come in by next weekend, but maybe Dothaidh with mixed further south or north for variety?

Observations appreciated.

In reply to BnB:

Mostly soggy on scnl. Got a report of soggy turf and no ice on dorain too. In short, need a bit more of a freeze.

In reply to BnB:

Morning,

I'm also planning to head out on Wednesday, hopefully in similar area? I don't think there'll be too much snow currently in S Highlands, strong northwesterlies forecast from Tues, Coire Chat on Cruachan would be worth a look?

If these winds persist, especially without too much snow, Beinn An Lochain would benefit from these conditions.

Stuart

In reply to Stuart the postie:

Thanks for the tips. Not sure we're after a 3+ hour walk-in on the first day of the trip but Monolith Grooves is definitely on the hit list. I was thinking Creag Coire an Dothaidh as a first objective if there's a big dump accompanied by westerlies but will be looking at north facing coires if coverage is lighter.

Wind and temps look set to improve as the week goes on so hoping to get some good days out. If you're short of a partner we'll gladly welcome a third in return for local wisdom.

In reply to BnB:

Creag Coire an Dothaid really wants ice and a sight build up, don't think that will have happened by mid week! Several nights hard Freeze, similar conditions to Udlaidh, ideally what this crag wants. The compact nature of rock, you want to trust turf for protection!!

Monolith Grooves would be in condition before Creag Coire an Dothaid, in my opinion. Coire Chat, unless there's too much snow for approach, would offer more reliable conditions, especially earlier during the beginning of a cold spell.

Stuart

Ps. Partnered at the moment, thanks for the offer though.

In reply to Stuart the postie:

Very helpful thanks Stuart

If its any help, turf in Stob Coire nan Lochan was mushy yesterday.

In reply to BnB:
Climbed in NE corrie of Dothaidh on Wednesday and conditions were good for mixed. We were slightly apprehensive on the walk in as things were moist to say the least underfoot, with a decent covering of snow on top, however once we reached the base of the crag things were solid luckily. Turf especially in the top half of the crag was bomber and things were lightly/medium hoared up for us (perfect mixed conditions really). Cirrus looked very nice and the ice was surprisingly fat in the initial chimney, although I'm not too well acquainted with the crag so don't know how much fatter it normally gets, but it certainly looked very good throughout the line. The approach slopes up to West Buttress had been completely scoured of snow with the winds which made the approach easy and was probably why the turf was solid as there was little snow insulating the turf on the buttress. The crag was stripping however throughout the day of its whiteness but the turf should survive I would think. Forecast has freezing level hovering around 700m today/tomorrow before dropping sharply on Tuesday. I would say Dothaidh would be most certainly worth a look.

In reply to Lamb:

Thanks. And ice was reported on Taxus same day. A lot can change in a week but sounds worth a look

In reply to BnB:

I walked up to Creag an Socach on Saturday. It felt warmer than the forecast suggested in the morning, +3 at the carpark. The crag had a superficial dusting of powder but icicles were dripping at the base of the crag and the turf soggy. The previous Sunday False Rumour Gully was well iced up and looking climbable but it was a waterfall on Saturday. Personally, unless there is a hard freeze during the course of the next week I would stick with more consistent venues further north. Saying that, you just never know as we thought we were chancing it last Sunday and the turf was bullet hard.

In reply to BnB:

I am at tyndrum at the moment and have been since Saturday. It's been warm and very wet low down and warm with wet snow up top. I cannot see anything been in unless a really sustained period comes to save us. When I say wet I mean really wet

In reply to alpine69:
That's not good to hear but an averaging of the forecasts is for cold and pretty dry starting almost immediately for the next week so I'll stay hopeful. I hope conditions improve for you before you head home

In reply to BnB:

Yeh some friends did taxus on weds and it apparently had good ice all the way with the grade IV finnish being done

In reply to BnB:


I've done that walk-in two days in a row and don't remember it being anywhere near that long from the Rest and Be Thankful. Could be wrong - its a long time back now, but I don't think so. Good luck. Southern Highlands can come into nick very quickly it the hills are too covered in snow as so many routes are quite turfy.

In reply to TobyA:

Think he was talking about the Cruachan one?

In reply to TobyA:
Sorry for the confusion caused by my lazy prose. I was referring to Coire Chat on Cruachan. It does seem as though it could be a decent early bet as conditions come back in. As for Beinn Lochain, it can't be much more than an hour can it?

In reply to Webster:

I wonder how the ice has fared in the rain!!

In reply to BnB:

Drove over the Rest And Be Thankful today . . . . Horizontal rain and wetter than an otter's pocket.

In reply to BnB:

Sorry - Yes, I've heard its a bit of a slog up to Cruachan, although it hadn't even been found when I was climbing in Scotland! Yeah, up to Monolith Groove isn't too bad, which is just as well when you leave your bag with car keys in it at the bottom, then get forced off the hill another way due to storm and avalanche conditions, so need to hitch home carless, bus back in the morning, walk back up the hill and recover bags/keys!

In reply to BnB:

went into climb Taxus yesterday.

Was pretty wet underfoot on the walk-in but the corrie was still holding snow. Slightly cruddy snow on the approach, but there was a good amount of ice on the first pitch. We didn't climb as there was some heavy spindrift and slough coming down.

Wednesday looks good, go for it!!

In reply to TobyA:

Epic. How easy was it to find your bag after the storm?

In reply to Hidden:

Alright, do you have any pictures of the crag from Sunday at all? Were the cliffs still white?
Looking at maybe heading in Wednesday.

Cheers

In reply to BnB:

Loads of new snow in the Coe yesterday down to 500m with a slight rise in temp during the afternoon and a good freeze overnight. The crags of scnl were white when I walked out and we had lots of useful neve (once you had dug through the powder) on the route and frozen turf. I would have thought crags in the Bridge of Orchy area would be much the same and ice has been building on the crags too.

http://www.kirkhopemountaineering.co.uk/conditions-blog/

In reply to Scott Kirkhope:

Surprisingly mild inland on Buachaille Etive Mor today. Felt about freezing on the summit. Wet porridge snow all the way up and lots of exfoliating ice and black rock. Pics will go on my blog in an hour.

In reply to Lamb:

Here's one from the bottom of Taxus:

http://postimg.org/image/ffq11jxu1/

In reply to Hidden:

Damn. Now everyone's going to be there tomorrow Although I am wondering about the Cobbler, Lochain or BEM and leaving Taxus and Cirrus to fatten up in the northerlies for a couple of days.

In reply to BnB:

Any up date for this area from folk who have been out today at all? Trying to narrow down venue choice for tomorrow, cheers.

In reply to Lamb:

The winter logbook has a dnf for Clonus today. That must be some indication of conditions.

With the latest SAIS report I'd be tempted to head to NW slopes in Coire na Coste. Although would have to cross some N facing stuff to get to there.

In reply to BnB:

On Monday bridge of Orchy area was poor, we walked in to do routes around Taxus and nothing was good! On Tuesday friends walked into SCNL for the third time and basically bailed, too warm.

In reply to drsdave:

We did Taxus today. It was very loose (powder and spindrift) and, while only grade 2 in these conditions, quite a desperate one in a couple of parts. Great fun.

In reply to BnB:

Yer I just read your entry, I'll be back up in March if you're around

In reply to BnB:

Aye ice is trying to form in there albeit slowly. Snow on buttresses is cruddy mostly. Turf partially frozen, some places frozen. Quite a bit of new snow over the last week, maybe around a foot which has blown about a bit. Menage a Trois looked quite icy now around crux slab, which would add some spice if anyone fancied it. What ice there was was dripping today although it was snowing pretty steady most of the afternoon so things are white.

In reply to BnB:

Was in SCNL on Tuesday - Pearly Gates area ok but fairly cruddy snow. Dorsal fine. Lots of deep soft snow in gullies. Not enough ice in SC Gully yet. Scabbard area buried in insulating crud - needs a slight thaw freeze. Snow was dry above 1050m, damp below that, which will help in the longer run. Friends did Crest Route, which was fine. Twisting Grooves buried in crud - not sure if it's frozen or not under the crud.

Beinn an Dothaidh Monday: Coup de Grace. P1 frozen, P2 not, backed off. Menage a Trois covered in thin, melting ice - the northerly could well sort it out. Clonus not frozen down yet properly. Cirrus full of crud and not ice.

In reply to LakesWinter:
New snow down to road level in bridge of orchy and over a couple of inches. It snowed for a consistent amount of time. 3 degrees at 15.00 hrs at the roadside. (Can you tell we never left the car today). Forecast looks really good for ski ing initially , then when things get further consolidation from now for the next 10 days things will be really good for climbing. I think being patient for this area will bring great dividends.

In reply to BnB:

Anyone been anywhere near Beinn udlaidh recently?

In reply to jamesgr87:
It did not look good at all on Tuesday , ie nothing at all ,

In reply to drsdave:

Hi Dave. How you doing? I'm quite possibly around then. Would be middle of the month as wife's birthday is 21st!!

In reply to BnB:

We were up on the NE Buttress of Ben Ime yesterday which is the highest cliff in Arrochar. Turf was only frozen where clear of the snow, otherwise it was insulated under deep snow. What ice there was, was thin but good. The Brack looked bare, with no ice in Great Central. Being an Lochain looked buried. It is possible that the Cobbler being lower and SE facing might have had less snow and more freeze thaws and thus be better, but this is only a guess. Higher up it is plastered so it will be good if it consolidates.

In reply to BnB:

Over 4 days of glorious winter we swam up Taxus, traced graceful snow aretes on Sron Na Lairig and consolidated our grade IV leading in great conditions on the North Buttress of the Bhuchaille. 9 stars in 3 outings. When my partner had to head home a day ahead of me I hiked Stob Gabhar in the Black Mount via its own small scale Aonach Eagach, the corrie below which featured a fascinating and dangerous snowpack.

Four very different days out which highlight how Scottish winter is so much more than just a search for ice on the Ben. A wonderful trip.

In reply to BnB:

The turf and ice was well frozen on Ménage a Trois yesterday, although there is still a lot of loose snow around so a fair bit of digging is needed. The wind was brutal and has deposited slab on northern aspects - the approach was fine but we descended northwards off the North Ridge and had to dance around areas of unstable snow.