UKC

One of the things that holds me back at climbing, probably more at sport than trad, is I stop breathing. Have you had issues with this, and what techniques have helped you get over it.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

My belayer is a trained first-aider.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Stupid but it works, singing.

In reply to marsbar:

I can actually see a certain logic in that. Infact I do sing when trad climbing, more as a mind game, not for the breathing thing.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Interesting topic and definitely something I could improve at too. I think its easy to forget when you're trying really hard, so much going on, how to do the move, pushing yourself etc.

First off I think its generally good to take a few long deep breaths before leaving the ground, at least on routes where is fairly hard from the start. Also repeat this at shake outs. These two are easy. I think getting beyond that probably requires a bit of practice. Power endurance routes seem good because you have to breath and if steep and hard for you your breathing goes way up naturally anyway.

Ali Rainey did an article on breathing a short while ago: http://allirainey.com/home/2015/11/17/move-of-the-month-9-breathing/

In reply to marsbar:


Interesting you say this, I think virtually every trad climber I know personally sings on trad climbs. It's a great way of distracting oneself from fear.

Agreed on the breathing part. Whenever I actively concentrate on this - which, granted, currently is limited to indoor circuits - I have noted a marked increase in stamina. This has in some ways translated to jumping up a few grades though presumably not all of that can be attributed to breathing.

Either way. From my observations almost everyone I know (at the humble grades I operate at at least) could benefit from thinking about breathing a little more. My 2 pence!

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

And here's me thinking it's because I'm crap at multitasking.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

talking to myself when trad climbing. Works a charm for fear too

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Reggie, I didn't get where I am today by breathing!!!!!!!!!!!
I wonder how many youngstars will 'get' that?

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

I usually swear and try to convince myself that the gear is good.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Yoga.. Get flexible, improve core, learn how to breath..

In reply to AP Melbourne:



There was a remake so maybe more than you think...

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

I've realised a few times recently that I had stopped breathing (!) after a hard route at the indoor wall and was wondering what to do about it. I'm pretty sure it occasionally hastens failure.

I sing outside on trad too but I think that's a mindset thing.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Hi reggie, poor breathing is something I've always noticed in people I have coached, the main thing is you have to practice it before you put yourself under duress.
If you climb inside practice on an easy traverse wall and mentally focus on your breathing.
If your solely outdoors climb a really easy route or traverse again doing the same method.

Another alternative is to create a routine you do every time before a climb that lets you focus in on the task at hand.

Hope this helps

In reply to flash13:

A good tai chi teacher will help you move in harmony with your breath.More fun than you might think,and more difficult.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

As others have said, some deep breaths before you leave the ground, and before set off on a crux sequence, can help a lot. But it's not just a matter of making them deep, but also slow, right in then out, several times, i.e. slowing down your rate of breathing. Has a very good calming effect.

Concur with others re. singing.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

I think the Rock Warriors Way just says concentrate on it as a technique - make the mental effort en route to breath

the rest comes naturally!

In reply to jsmcfarland:


That really depends on what you're saying!

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

Thanks, some things to try here.

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

The singing thing - 'Singing in the rain' for me, because it's eminently hummable, and tum-ta- tee-tummable.

I was once following someone across the Eastern Travers on Tower Ridge. Unbeknownst to me, he was gripped out of his mind. Sometime later, he thanked me, because all the while he was gripped, there was some bloke behind him, idly kicking the snow and humming Singing in the Rain. It helped him get a sense of perspective., apparently. The power of singing by proxy

Alternatively, random phrases have a place, for example -
"Oh, the jackpot
is in the 'andle
Of a normal fruit machine'

Ian Dury, which persisted for a week long trip to Scotland and made an appearance whenever moral support or levity was needed.

In reply to Skyfall:


It's nice to know that so many people sing; I thought it was an eccentricity of my own!

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

It very much depends on what works for you, but personal I often use a breathing exercise.

Start by trying to control your breathing by creating in for 4 to 8 second and out for the same. If you add in RE on the inhalation and LAX on the exhalation. This will help with staying relaxed and calm as well.

I suspect though that your problem is when you are trying really hard, you tense your whole body and your core, his can lock your diaphragm. To over come this you need to try some core exercises and focus on trying to breathe with your diaphragm as you are doing this. It will take time to learn but it should help.

Hope that helps, if you have any questions just ask.

In reply to BusyLizzie:

I thought it was just me too!

Octopuses garden is a favourite. Probably because of the "we're safe and warm" bit and its a bit silly. Also useful for kayaking as it is the right speed for a good sustainable rhythm when the sea gets interesting.

In reply to Mark Reeves:

>



Thank you, this was mentioned to me on Saturday.
I really think this is an area I will work on.
Thank you for taking the time to give this advice.

In reply to flash13:

I think I shall do as you suggest easy stuff and concentrate on breathing

In reply to Reggie Perrin:

I consciously start breathing in a controlled manner as I'm tying in, then continue it for the rest of the route ideally in time with either placing gear, dipping chalk or intensify as I start what I feel might be a difficult section. Just breathing more has made a monumental difference to my climbing, almost instantly too! Not only in a physical way, but mentally as well.

You sound like a freight train the first few times, but as you become more accustomed and controlled it gets better.

Funny thing was, it wasn't something I started to improve my climbing intentionally, as one would think. I actually started mid route up a vicious 7a (indoors) I was desperate to complete. In the space of an evening I achieved more than I had in two weeks of attempting.

I transferred what was a revelation to me, into my ice climbing and have never been calmer, more controlled and having more fun!

In reply to marsbar:

That's strange but so do I. Also when I'm skiing. I've never really known why.....