UKC

I've got a free Weekend and am willing to travel. Is there much in nick anywhere? I realise Wales and the Lakes are probably out (or will they?) and I dont want to go as far North as Aviemore or Fort William. MWIS is a bit vague at the moment just saying we are entering a period of colder weather and less wind coming from the West/South West.
Any recommendations for Glencoe, Bridge of Orchy, or thereabouts? I wont be attempting anything in excess of Grade 2.

In reply to Gone for good:

Sorry but I can only vouch for the Cairngorms. Plenty going on up here. Icescrews have been going into selected places. Conditions right now are amazing, very little wind and low cloud in the mornings.

In reply to Gone for good:
What a bizarre post title. Conditions this week are the best they've been all season, and there are a decent number of routes of most grades in condition throughout the Highlands. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/winter.html

In Glencoe, routes getting done on Buachaille Etive Mor, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Stob Coire nam Beith and Sgorr Dhonuill.

In reply to KA:



This is Fort William calling...

In reply to george mc:

From the OP: " I dont want to go as far North as Aviemore or Fort William"

To the OP: Wales won't be in condition.

In reply to Gone for good:

You will go to glencoe but an extra 30mins to fort William is unacceptable? Bit strange.

In reply to KA:

To be fair I knew there was practically nothing in nick in either England or Wales and I'm a 400 mile drive away from Fort William or Aviemore
I hadn't seen much by way of updates on the conditions threads and wondered how much damage the recent storms had caused ie warm wet and windy weather. Thank you for the link to the logbook page. It certainly seems as though Glencoe is worth the journey on Friday evening.

In reply to stella1:

I know. It does seem strange but time is precious and ultimately by limiting myself to no further north than Glencoe saves me at least an hour and potentially 90 minutes driving and upto 90 minutes more on the hill.

In reply to Gone for good:
In reply to Gone for good:
I'd say if it stays as cold into the weekend as MWIS is suggesting for the next three days, there will be mixed routes to do in North Wales but it will require careful route choice as the turf might not be frozen. If you're looking for II/III as your profile suggests, ridge scrambles will be good fun - assuming the temperature doesn't go back up. If you do opt for Scotland, there will be stuff to do for sure.

In reply to Gone for good:

Golden Oldy on the W Face of Aonach Mor was excellent today... can't tempt yourself to the extra drive for a gondola ride? http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/a-golden-day-on-golden-oldy.html

In reply to AlH:
Bloody hell....looks brilliant!

In reply to Misha:



I agree with you on one of your points here Misha - the turf will almost certainly not be frozen! I can't think of many mixed routes in Wales that don't require some degree of turf, aside from Golden Girl Ali (IV 5). Y Gribin (Winter) (I/II), Crib Y Ddysgl - Crib Goch Traverse (Winter) (I), Bristly Ridge (II) and the North Ridge of Tryfan all have turf.

Scotland is by far and away the best choice.

In reply to AlH:

I can vouch for that. Well worth the extra miles and a nice ride up in the gondolas and back down again. Golden oldie is in beautiful condition. There's even a path cut out.

In reply to ianstevens:
Yes but ridge scrambles will give good wintery conditions if it stays cold and for someone looking to do easier routes they are gold options.

Some harder lines on Clogwyn Ddu don't rely on turf but that's a bit different...

In reply to Misha:

That's why I didn't list them! The easy routes are all very nice (and actually what the OP wanted) but still have turf that can be damaged. Having seen people out on non-frozen turf in the last cold snap, I'm a tad over-sensitive about it! I want it to freeze up as well, I just don't think it will.

In reply to ianstevens:

Agree.

In reply to Gone for good:

Just been to Glencoe and been in SCNL. Some harder mixed is good, but the area round Scabbard Chimney is buried in crud - climbable, but not ideal and hard work. The gullies are largely full of deep, soft, snow. Broad Gully seemed ok on the way down, but NC, SC, Twisting all need the snow to settle and SC needs freeze thaw to make some ice. Things like Pearly Gates are ok - not stunning neve but ok, dorsal arete is fine.

For anyone wondering, Beinn an Dothaidh was largely not frozen enough on Monday. Friends backed off Clonus, Pas de Deux not frozen on P1, Coup de Grace buried in crud after the first pitch.

Based on what I saw I'd say west face of Aonach Mor, scrambly ridges in Glencoe, Cairngorms in general are best bet, unless you want steep rocky mixed, in which case SCNL is ok on some routes.

In reply to ianstevens:

what about Clogwyn y Person Arete (III 4)

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Good shout - what about Cneifion Arete III 3/4 or even Cyfrwy Arete (winter) on Cader?

In reply to AlH:

stupid question .. what time is the climbers gondola - website show 9.30 i thought there was one at 8.30 ?

i've never walked in before from there do you just traverse west round before heading up the valley or go up the ridge a way before dropping in to the valley ? havent got my guide on me at the moment....

In reply to lithos:

8am sharp climbers gondola. Be at the window for a ticket at 0755 and go straight to gondola. They only run it a few minutes. Go from top station along road to quad chair and keep on going. Drop down and across to a terrace well above Allt Damh and keep going along until you hit flat section of valley floor. Follow valley floor a ways over 2 steep sided stream gullys. Begin your rising traverse after the second. NN18800 73000 is about 50-100m directly directly below first belay.

In reply to AlH:

thanks