UKC

Bouldering NZ South Island

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 ianstevens 12 Feb 2016
Hi all,

I'm off to NZ in March/April for a bit, and was wondering if anyone had any useful beta about the area. Whilst I'd love to take my trad or even a sport rack, I simply won't have space (weight) and probably won't have a partner psyched for such trips. Taking some shoes is a go-er, hence bouldering.

I'll be based in Queenstown, although roaming about South Island throughout. Anyone know the scenario with guides, mat hire (I assume its impossible or outrageously expensive) or even fellow climbers who would be keen to get out? Will possibly hire a car for a few days so movement isn't an issue.

I've found this already (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3685) and had a good search, but can't find much. After pointers from those who have been really.

Cheers!
 Big_C1 12 Feb 2016
In reply to ianstevens:

if you're base in Queenstown there is some good bouldering on the other side of the lake at Jardines boulders. Plenty of info if you google it. Great location. Castle Hill is Brilliant but bit of a mission from Queenstown, easy striking distance from Christchurch however. The South Island Rock guidebook has all the info you could need. There is lots of sports climbing about so I'd recommend taking you harness as well.

Paynes Ford has some very good sports climbing, up near Able Tasmin National park in the north of the South Island if you fancy a road trip. Head to the hang dog camp site you'll find a climbing partner no probs. I found the local climbers more than welcoming when I was there.
OP ianstevens 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Big_C1:

Lovely stuff - cheers! I think my google searches were missing the names of places - similar to searching "Climbing UK" (although then you get UKC).
 robbiebrookie 12 Feb 2016
In reply to ianstevens:

+1 for paynes ford and castle hill

queenstown has some good multi-pitch if you can find a partner

also nearer to queenstown is Wanaka

Wanaka
 Derry 12 Feb 2016
In reply to ianstevens:

Castle hill. World class bouldering. End of
Removed User 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Derry:

Shock to the system it's like slippy grit!
 The Potato 13 Feb 2016
In reply to Derry:

Yeah well worth the drive and you can find somewhere to camp nearby make a few days of it
 madam 18 Feb 2016
In reply to ianstevens:
Hi Ian,

-> nice map of "all" NZ crags -> was handy when I was there (https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?hl=en&msa=0&z=6&ie=UTF8&am...

-> my bouldering tip apart from the obvious Castle Hill would be Elephant rocks close to Duntroon. Just next to it is Hulk Hogen (good for rainy days -- wiiiide overhang).

Enjoy your time there, NZ is fantastic !!!

adam
 B_Mark_W 18 Feb 2016
In reply to ianstevens:

If you are based in Queenstown take a harness. While there is bouldering at the Jardines, there is a lot more sport climbing around. It is fairly easy to find partners through the facebook page 'Queenstown climbing club' .
The better crags such as wye creek are approx 20 mins drive from Queenstown but the is also some crags within walking of the town itself.
You can hire guides which is good but expensive but would likely allow you to go on the bigger more adventurous missions such as chinamans bluff and the remarkables etc

Wanaka is nearby which also is mainly sport climbing. Payne's ford is a mission from queenstown but great, with hangdog being a climbing dedicated campsite.

Bouldering mecca is castle hill and you can hire mats in the nearby town of Springfield.

Enjoy!
the rest of NZ is limited to the options previously mentioned
OP ianstevens 18 Feb 2016
In reply to B_Mark_W:

Cheers. I'm sure I could throw in a harness, after all it's only a few hundred grams, and if I can find a freindly local (or fellow tourist) with a rope who is keen to get out then all the better! Great pointer regarding mat hire - I was planning on going old school with a beer towel and sensible landings.

Payne's Hill might be a little far - I've only really got a week's worth of free time, and am not keen on wasting two days driving across the country. However, I'm happy with the journey to Christchurch - I already know that one well!

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