UKC

I have a question for anyone who's been to the Ben during previous winter seasons. When are we to expect the winter season to end this year? Would there be any point in turning up in the third week of March trying to go ice climbing? I'm hoping someone with a better sense of the weather and more familiarity with the mountain than me might be able to help me out.

Any help greatly appreciated.

In reply to 19G:
It's not something that be be predicted this far in advance for any given season. There are often good ice climbing conditions well into April and occasionally into May, then again, towards the end of March 2012, there was good (and not too cold) rock climbing to be had on Carn Dearg Buttress.

The archives on my old blog will help give you a clearer picture of late season conditions up there:
http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/blog/

In reply to KA:

Thanks very much for your help, Ken. I'll keep an eye on the weather nearer the time then.

19G

In reply to 19G:

You're welcome. I'm hoping for a season that lasts well into April!

In reply to 19G:

It would be unusual for there not be ice routes in nick 3rd week of March.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Thanks Michael. I guess I'll get more light then too - looking forward to it.

In reply to KA:
this year it went in to June didn't it? But that is highly unusual.

In reply to 19G:

for water Ice generally late march is the latest to expect good conditions, snow ice (such as the classic point 5 and zero gulies) are often at their best in april/may (I did my last winter route on 17th may last winter) and indeed there was routes in condition in june last year. as always with winter climbing it is a lottery but late season snow ice on ben nevis is the most reliable of winter mediums and even after prolonged thaws routes can come back into condition over night if its been a snowy winter.

In reply to 19G:

Indicator wall is frequently in condition into mid April or later. Many of the easier gullies likewise (up to grade IV)..... I's and II's well into May, in fact often providing the best conditions of the year with firm neve in the mornings.... much more enjoyable than wading through powder in Jan and Feb!

In reply to Webster:


Smiths Route is normally an ice fall and is typically in condition well in to April. Some other ice falls are also typically in condition really late in the season such as tower scoop. Ice can be particularly resistant to thaw under the right conditions.