UKC

I've narrowed it down to either: ME Citadel or ME FItzroy/Rab Photon X (which ever is cheaper). Is the extra weight worth the extra warmth? Any other thoughts/advice.

I'll be doing grade 1/2 winter climbing, maybe longish days winter walking. All in Scotland for now, but I might get to the Alps one day.

In reply to Donald82:

If they have your size try this and save some money:

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/alpinism-warm-jacket-grey-id_8327120.html

I have one and it works very well for Scottish winter and I do feel the cold.

In reply to Donald82:

I'd probably go for the fitzroy assuming its the lightest. Wouldn't expect to be belaying for a long time on I/II ground. If I expect to be belaying less than 30 mins I usually don't bother putting it on.

In any event, I can stay warm in the fitzroy for about an hour. Start getting a bit chilly up to about an hour and a half and, after that, the swearing starts.

In reply to Donald82:

Whatever you get make sure that
1. you can actually belay in it..................ie does the zip open from the bottom so that you can access belay plate.
2. that it also press-studs closes at the bottom with the zip opened up. [you open the zip, then press-stud the ends of the jacket closed underneath the belay plate, otherwise the ends of the jacket flap about and you get a drought.]
3. it has chest pockets that you can easily access
4. that the pockets are big enough for sp gloves or whatever.
5 that the hood [it MUST have a hood] will go over your helmet.
6 not vital but good if the wrist closure is NOT Velcro. Velcro freezes up and is US.
7 that for the Uk it is not down.................

Not all 'belay 'jackets are equal....................

In reply to Donald82:

Santa brought me a Citadel for Christmas. It's a great piece of bit, bomb proof, but it's heavy and I think the Fitzroy would have been a better choice.

In reply to Donald82:

Thanks all. I think I'll go for the cheaper of the Fitzroy and the Photon. Maybe I should go for the Simmonds but I'm a sucker for gear marketing

In reply to top cat:

Thanks! No idea why someone disliked your post - all seems like excellent advice to me.

In reply to Donald82:

I'd look at either the ME Fitzroy, Rab Photon X, or the haglofs barrier pro iii belay.

Rab has the best features but is the heaviest, haglofs is the lightest and is more of a general winter belay jacket rather than specifically designed for Scottish winter conditions.

I'd go for either the Rab or Haglofs depending on your lightness/features priorities.

In reply to Donald82:

I was after a citadel but I got a great deal on the Photon from Needle Sports in Keswick, so far I'm definitely impressed with the Photon and it was considerably cheaper!

I tried the Fitzroy on at the same but given the specs and the cost it had to be the Photon, the Fitzroy has a single layer of 100g Primaloft Gold in the body whereas the Photon X has two on the front and a single layer on the back, i think both have the same insulation in the arms.... Although Needle Sports now have the Fitzroy on sale due in stock this week i think.

In reply to Alpenglow:

Thanks. Looks like I can get the pro ii (not iii) belay and the photon for about £140. Do you know if the pro ii is the earlier or the inferior version of the pro iii? or both?

In reply to Donald82:

The pro ii is the earlier version. It's slightly less durable as it has 30D pertex quantum reinforcements with 20D body. Not durable enough for hardcore use IMO. The zip is slightly fiddly too. Really good jacket for alpine (if you don't like down).

In reply to Alpenglow:

Cheers. Looks like the Rab then actually only £125 which seems like a good deal

In reply to ChrisNaylor:

Thanks - off to take that advice now

In reply to Donald82:

To complicate things further I can highly recommend the montane flux. I've had one for a few years now and really like it. Really good price as well.

In reply to Alpenglow:



I've just finished testing all three of this jackets. Fitzroy was the coldest of the three - I've got a Citadel that I have used for around 3 years and is superior to the Fitzroy. But it is still not as good as the Haglofs Barrier Pro 3 belay jacket, which I noticed that Cotswolds are selling for £175!

For me its a very close call between the Photon X or the Haglofs as to which one I would spend my own money on. Pure Scottish Belay Jacket = Photon, More of an all rounder = Haglofs.

In reply to Tom F Harding:

I tested one of those as well, the hood was much smaller than the Fitzroy, Haglofs Pro...., and the Photon. And didn't provide as much protection from the elements, particularly when wearing helmets.

In reply to Donald82:

I had a Montane Flux. Great jacket but fut wasn't right for me (damn Montane and their slim forearms) so I sold it. Replaced it with the Photon X predecessor the Generator Alpine. Better fit for me and Primaloft Gold vs the Primaloft Eco.

Had the prices been similar I'd have gone for an ME option as they fit me best.

Bottom line, not a bad choice among them. Pick whichever has the best fit/deal/colour combo.

In reply to ChrisNaylor:

As Chris said, Needle Sports have the Fitzroy for £130 - http://www.needlesports.com/33927/products/mountain-equipment-mens-fitzroy-...

In reply to DBoothroyd:

When i got mine back in January the fitzroy and photon where both on the shelf at 199 so it was a no brainer for me... I'll undoubtedly be sweating if i'm wearing it to belay in the peak or lancs but for Scotland its brilliant!

In reply to Donald82:

I can offer an endorsement for the Fitzroy. If it's super cold I throw it on under my waterproof shell for extra effect if it's dry. Hood is great with a helmet, 2 way zip is an absolute must and the warmth isn't too bad. It's just had a week in the Cairngorms with 2 other partners using the same jacket. Can't speak for the other brands.

In reply to all:

Thanks all for the advice. Got the photon, £125 at Tizo's...

In reply to Donald82:

Good choice!