UKC

Bolted Multipitch across switzerland and Italy

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 PeteDP 15 Feb 2016
Hi, I'm planning a trip to Italy/Switzerland/anywhere in weastern Europe people can suggest that's in driving distance. We were looking for easy bolted multipitch at max f6b with good bolting and good weather for the summer.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Peter
 KA 15 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:
You definitely want to look at the Plaisir range of guidebooks published by Filidor:

http://www.needlesports.com/246/brand/filidor.aspx

They cover exactly what you're looking for.
Post edited at 21:29
 deepstar 15 Feb 2016
 Si dH 15 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

Grimselpass area is great but bolting is often/usually very spaced ao be careful if you are passing through.
 timmeehhhh 15 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

For bolt heaven, look no further than Aillefroide!

 tom84 16 Feb 2016
In reply to Si dH:

+1 for grimsel, its incredible- climbed there last year and the quality of not only the bolting but length of routes and quantity was unbelievable. for a competent 6a leader it would be no problem to climb 3 or 4 routes a day 6+ pitches in length. the granite is perfect, apparently only second to yosemite in quality. you should go!
OP PeteDP 16 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

Brilliant, thank you all for the tips, Grimsel was on the list, only heard good things about it so far and same for Aillefroide. Does anyone know anything more about bolted multipitch in the dolomites or am I more likely to need to place protection to really take advantage of the longer climbs
 AlanLittle 16 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

Sarca Valley north of Arco is your best bet for bolted multipitch near the Dolomites
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 16 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

Loads of bolted multi-pitch in the Dolomites though as Alan says if you're only looking for bolts Sarca valley is where people normally head - it can get very hot in the middle of summer though.
 Casa Alfredino 17 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

As James says there's lots of it about in the Dolomites. Some of the routes might benefit from carrying a small set of nuts to fill in gaps, but it's not a heinous chore. There's lots on Civazes, Cinque Torre, Sella towers, Tognazza, Tofana di Rozes, Sass di Stria, Murfreit, Piccolo Vernel amongst many others. Aswell as James excellent guide there are other guides in Italian and German which detail the climbing, as James covers mainly the north of the range. To the south there is a whole lifetime of climbing waiting to be explored too...
 HeMa 17 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

Ticino (or Tessin), Grimsel, Furka and Bregalia in CH spring to mind rather quickly (Känels Plaisir -series might be real contender for you).

From Italy, Sarca valley is indeed the obvious choice. Val di Mello (south of Bregalia) also has some climbs, but some also require some gear, can also be true for Bregalia and most of the Dolomites AFAIK.

Aosta valley also has some bolted multibitch stuff, and a bit more south for better weather Rocca Sbarua just W of Torino has some nice climbs.
OP PeteDP 17 Feb 2016
In reply to HeMa:

What are the opportunities for bolted multipitch in spain over the summer, so far only found out about cavallers being suitable for that time of year with the rest of the big venues being pretty hot in july.
 HeMa 17 Feb 2016
In reply to PeteDP:

> What are the opportunities for bolted multipitch in spain over the summer, so far only found out about cavallers being suitable for that time of year with the rest of the big venues being pretty hot in july.

I think Cavallers is about it. The usual suspects I know are more fall/winter/sping dealios...

Vilanova de Meià, Riglos, Montserrat...
Houser 17 Feb 2016
In reply to deepstar:

high deepstar , I went bouldering somewhere near Ticino for a couple of days years ago ,,,, can you recommend crags or routes with multipitch sports routes ? thanks
 deepstar 17 Feb 2016
In reply to Houser:

Hi there, we did'nt have a guidebook when we visited the crag, just picked some likely looking routes and worked out what they were from photos later. If you visit the UKC page
Ponte Brolla you will see from the number of stars what a quality place it is.





cb294 17 Feb 2016
In reply to Houser:

The crags in the lower Maggia valley, e.g. near Ponte Brolla, are quite nice.

CB
In reply to tom84:

What's the recommended guidebook for grimsel?

 SiWood 17 Feb 2016
In reply to crag_hopper_Jay:
Plaisir West is the one I have used (some photos of Grimsel on my gallery if you want to see the quality of the climbing). Most of the classic route like Fair Hands line and Motorhead are covered in that book (topo style). There is I think a definitive guide from SAC as well (in german)
Post edited at 16:54
In reply to SiWood:

Thanks Si! When did you go and how long for?

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