UKC

I picked up a pair of classic Nepal Extremes last season but after multiple days on the hill i find them to be very uncomfortable. I realise to some extent this has to be expected due to the rigidity etc.

I'm after a slightly more flexible pair of boots for summer alpine (classic rock ridges and routes up to AD). I will probably need to sell my Nepal Extremes to afford to buy some new boots. I realise i need to make some compromises but i basically want the most comfortable technical boot available that fits my feet (I take a UK 9 in most boots and I have a wide forefoot).

I've tried on Scarpa Manta Pros and i'm keen to check out La Sportiva Trangos and Scarpa Charmoz. Would anybody recommend any boots? Does anyone have experience of using crampons in these kind of B2s - I assume you can get away with a bit of front pointing on steeper face climbs if needed (I currently use Black Diamond Serac crampons)?

Any advice is much appreciated.

James

In reply to James198379:

I love my La Sportiva Trangos, great for UK up to VDiff and probably above if you push it, great for Via Ferrata and longer VF link ups in the Dolomites, I have done winter grade II in them no problems. My mate uses the Charmoz, same experience so depends on fit ultimately.

In reply to Dark-Cloud:
Another vote for Trango Alp GTX's, used mine in the alps on conville course, Grade I winter in UK and dolomites via ferrata - can't speak highly enough of them. I'm very light (9.5stone 44 eu boots) so even though they are B2s they feel extremely stiff to me while front pointing and B3 would be pretty much pointless.

In reply to James198379:

these, there ace if they fit http://www.needlesports.com/108/products/la-sportiva-trango-extreme-evo-lig...

Davey

In reply to James198379:

I've used Manta Pros with G12s for grade II and they were fine, AFAIK Sportiva tend to be narrower. Charmoz are lighter and cheaper, possibly not as durable on UK hills?

In reply to James198379:

Have a look at the scarpa rebel lites. They are officially b2 but probably more b1.5, teamed up with grivel g12s with a flexible bar. I've used them to climb alpine summer AD routes and Scottish/Welsh winter up to grade 3, including water ice, with no issues. Also used them to do Tower Ridge in winter on a good day last April. Very light and not too much insulation but I've found them a great boot.

In reply to James198379:

There is ONLY one thing that will guarantee finding comfortable boots:

Going to as many shops as you can and trying on as many pairs of boots possible.

In reply to James198379:

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments. It seems the boots i'm considering are well regarded, now I just need to find some in stock near me!

Cheers,

James

In reply to Mountain Llama:

They are B3 though are they not ?

In reply to James198379:
Few of my mates use the new manta pro all love them
Climbed a few grade2/ 3 routes no problem with Well fitting Grivel Airtech poons

I personally love the Trango S boots had a pair last for Almost 10 years still have them Completely smooth sole (can't being myself to throw them out I'd only use them during summer or early winter again some folks will say grade 2/3 routes done easily and often ,I briefly owned the Trango Alps nice boots little stiffer and beefier however my feet really hated these seemed narrow just couldn't get on with them so really depends on your feet and how good your footwork is ,I ended up buying a pair of Trango Cube's which are top notch very light and a little stiffer at B2 however I don't think I'll get 10 years from these and if you suffer cold feet then these won't be great for a lot of people.

Also look at the Salewa boots Raven combi & Condor Evo
I picked up a pair of Raven Combi silly cheap looked pretty Good thot they'll replace my old Trango S for summer use ,there definitely on the chunky side well made and I'd say they would be Brilliant doing anything winter up to grade 3 in competent feet. I picked these up for summer and Mountaineering use but think they'll probably be used for Winter Munros and easier routes with mates, in a uk9 there pretty stiff I'd say as Stiff as the Trango Cube and manta pro just my opinion mind.

As suggested above try a good few pairs on don't be rushed into buying
Even if you have to go shop around ,I wasted £200 on Trango Alps as I assumed
After having a pair of faithful Trango S Booties these would be just perfect.

Good luck with the Search

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

My experience is that there are bender than my nepals, so B2.5?

Very lite, fairly warm and they walk and climb well.

HTH Davey

In reply to James198379:
A vote for the La Sportiva Trango Cube. Amazingly light, really comfortable and great for climbing in. You can get them for a pretty reasonable price now as well if you shop around. As with all La sportiva they fit a narrow foot much better.

In reply to James198379:

I like my Scarpa Charmoz for summer alpine stuff. They're really light, ok with crampons and good on rock. My only problem is they are a bit cold sometimes on early starts. I have given up on them in Scotland because my feet get too cold, though I have heard others are ok - probably depends on your circulation.

In reply to James198379:

Scarpa Rebel, Sportiva Trango, Salomon X-Alps and Garmont Tower spring to mind, when you talk about light B2 boots for summer alps.

Each "range" has models that take semi-automatic crampons, and also climb easy rock.

Fit is key, test before you buy (or take your change and order online).

In reply to James198379:

Hi James, I had exactly the same problem with a pair of Nepal's, because they were too narrow for my wide feet. An expensive mistake! I'm climbing at a similar level to you (up to AD, UK III/IV max) and find B2's are more than adequate for steep ground, and faster for moving around in. (They were even fine, top roped mind, at V/VI in the Ice Factor.) I can more than highly recommend the discontinued Salewa Blackbirds if you can get them - Up and Under in Cardiff have some old stock, or the Condor, their replacement model. (The Blackbird is ideal for UK use as warmer than the Condor, but still fine for Alpine use.) The Blackbird's are the most comfortable boot I have ever owned by a long, long way. Everyone I meet who has Blackbirds has had the same experience, and say so with that 'one who knows something' look in their eyes! They also do an extra wide fit, which is ideal for me.
Hope that's helpful.
Best
Rob