UKC

Hi,

Three friends and I are going to California in May, mostly for hiking and sightseeing. I would like to include a bit of bouldering as well and Bishop and Joshua Tree could easily be included in our itinerary. However while I climb at a relatively good level (up to 7A) my friends are almost total beginners; I've taken them sport climbing a couple of times and we did some bouldering in Ailefroide last year. The problem was that there were very few easy problems, and those were usually boring. What's it like in Bishop and Joshua Tree? Anything good that would match yellow problems in Font and be higher than 6 feet?

In reply to Adrien:
Loads of easier problems near Bishop, from what I can remember- going back a few years sadly. Also some easy sport climbing. Awesome coffee shops/bakeries in Bishop. Easily one of the most stunning places I've been, so well worth a visit.

In reply to Adrien:

Josh might be a tad... warm.

In reply to Adrien:
Trashcan Rock at J Tree is roadside and has easy problems more than 6 feet high (and is more attractive than the name implies!).

Trashcan Rock


Sorry, looks like you meant highish bouldering not roped climbing. That said, if you climb 7A you could solo a few things and trail a rope for them.

I'm no expert on the bouldering but there's plenty from what I've seen. As Sean pointed out it might be warm unless you start early.

In reply to Dave Garnett:


There is always a place near Joshua Tree that is very high up and has lots of granite bouldering - I think it's called the Tramway but no idea how good it is. As ever, Supertopo is probably your best bet...

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-tramway/105991060

In reply to Adrien:

I've only been to the buttermilks. I'd never done much bouldering (still not much good at it) but I found it very hard. Everything is really harsh on the finger skin, and I've indoor bouldered for a couple of years so don't have super soft finger skin like your friends might.

In reply to seankenny:


This looks good. I don't generally have a pad when I'm out there but I could probably borrow one for this.

In reply to Adrien:

If you look on Mountain Project, Gunsmoke has had a couple of May ascents so early morning or late on a cool day might be OK in the shade for JT bouldering. You can hire pads locally. Bishop is also off season but less so.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/bishop-area/106064825

Thanks everyone for your replies. I am well aware that this isn't the best time of year to go to either location but climbing isn't the main focus of this trip (let alone hard climbing, I've got Font for that) so that's OK. Although, Joshua Tree may indeed be too hot, so perhaps we'll just go to Bishop; plus the grades in JT seem harsh, and Bishop does seem to have more easier problems. The Tramway looks interesting but I can't imagine paying to go climbing, thanks for the suggestion though.

By the way if somebody has the guidebook for Bishop (bouldering) and no longer needs it I'd be happy to relieve you of it (can't seem to be able to find it somewhere in France, I don't know about the UK?).

In reply to Adrien:

Temps will not be primo, but if you're not at the cutting edge it'll be fine!

Both Bishop and Joshua Tree are incredible for so many reasons. I can highly recommend this place http://greatbasinbakerybishop.com/ the Sourdough is amazing!

and Black Sheep coffee is awesome too! http://www.blacksheepcoffeeroasters.com/

There is loads of climbing so there will definitly be stuff to suit your ability Upper Right Ski Track is a good starred 5.3 (diff) on the beaultiful Intersection rock in Joshua Tree, near the Hidden Valley campground.

Have fun!

In reply to Adrien:

Temps will not be primo, but if you're not at the cutting edge it'll be fine!

Both Bishop and Joshua Tree are incredible for so many reasons. I can highly recommend this place http://greatbasinbakerybishop.com/ the Sourdough is amazing!

and Black Sheep coffee is awesome too! http://www.blacksheepcoffeeroasters.com/

There is loads of climbing so there will definitly be stuff to suit your ability Upper Right Ski Track is a good starred 5.3 (diff) on the beaultiful Intersection rock in Joshua Tree, near the Hidden Valley campground.

Have fun!

In reply to Adrien:

Having done California / Nevada in May I can tell you that Jtree and Redrocks will be hot, but not unclimbable if you choose your time of day and lines. One potential issue you may have is crossing the Sierra mountains - The Needles were inaccessible, and the only open pass was the Sonora pass - there was 14 feet of snow either side! On the plus side, the Yosemite waterfalls were spectacular. Don't bother with the beach - the Catalina current brings mist, fog, drizzle and rain at that time of year.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Tramway is ace. I have been once but would go back.

Yes we're going there in May specifically because the waterfalls in Yosemite are supposed to be spectacular Hopefully crossing the Sierra Nevada won't be too much of a problem, it'll be the end of May then so there's a good chance the Tioga Road is opened. If it's not I'm sure the road to South Lake Tahoe isn't too bad in terms of scenery.

Is the coast that bad that time of year though? We're planning on spending a couple of days between San Francisco and Monterey. Don't care if the weather isn't optimal for sunbathing.

From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems Bishop is a better bet than Joshua Tree, both in terms of weather and grades (possibly in terms of scenery too). Let's see how many days I can convince my friends to stay there

In reply to Adrien: Have a look at Alabama Hills, IIRC it is nearish Bishop, by US standards anyway. Loads of lower grade sport routes and I would have thought good for easy bouldering too.

In reply to Adrien:

There is lots of easy bouldering at Bishop, the best place is the happy boulders, the buttermilks feel quite tough in comparison. The climbing shop in town rents bouldering mats. There are also some other venues that are quite high up and exposed so could be cooler in May.

In reply to Adrien:




Waterfalls were good at the end of May. There's good info online about the opening times for the passes. Coast may be a bad idea- there's a cold water current (Catalina current?) that brings fog/rain/drizzle to California in May. JTree was hot in May - no good for climbing your hardest grade, but you're on holiday so that doesn't matter.

In reply to Toerag:

Yeah fingers crossed the Tioga Road will be open, if not it "only" adds something like 4 hours so it's not too bad.

We've decided not to climb in Joshua Tree in the end, we'll just do a bit of hiking. I'll go back on my own if it's worth it

Just one month left, so excited!!

In reply to Adrien:

I was at J tree oct last year. Was very very hot. You will be limited to finding climbs in the shade. The ethic there seems to be very high and bold lines. I didn't boulder but there was loads of problems to do. lots of places offering bouldering mat rental on the way into the park, and a very friendly climbing shop near the north entrance. They were very friendly and happy to point people to the most appropriate areas.

In reply to Adrien:

If you're going for a long trip, perhaps worth considering buying a pad, and selling it when you leave.

If you do end up in Yosemite Valley, the Camp 4 notice board is a good place to buy/sell gear.

And if REI sell them, you could might be able to get a refund if you tell them you don't like it.

In reply to Adrien:

You can check roads with Caltrans. All the passes are still closed, and most will still be snow in early May. Bishop is a long way from Yosemite via Tahoe. Bouldering at Tahoe although East Sierras to Bishop are very scenic in Spring. Monterey can be foggy in morning but generally burns off by lunch, as of this week. There should be little snow to Half Dome by May as it was melting fast. North side of valley clear to rim, south side had snow higher up, with some trails stilll closed.
Check NPS Yose for current details.

In reply to IainL:

Forget about Half Dome. The cables will still be down.