UKC

I have been thinking about devices to use for lead rope soloing and I seem to think the petzl shut would work rather well if used properly. Im not sure if the idea is really worth trying. Has anyone does this before or have any suggestions on what other devices to use other than the extremely expensive ones such as the wren soloist and so on...

In reply to RobBrooks: I've used a shunt leading up to E3 on Baggy slabs and elsewhere. Seemed fine to me.

In reply to RobBrooks:

'death modified' Grigri.

I do it on a shunt. I always tie backup knots and even use another spare rope as backup. I still hate falling off and if it's high, can feel spicy.

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

How exactly? I've used a shunt for top roping on my own in the past, but how do you lead with one?!

In reply to TobyA:


My thoughts too.

In reply to Dai Horribly:

Relevant username.

In reply to TobyA:
It's hard to explain. It has to be orientated properly in a way that if you fall, it'll flip the right way up when you fall below the piece of gear or bolt therefore it'll be able to catch you. This is why I'm not to fond of the idea because it sounds like there is a lot that could go wrong with it

In reply to RobBrooks:
I have been using a shunt to TR solo since 1986. I would never dream of using one to lead solo, they are far too orientation sensitive.

In reply to RobBrooks:

I've never heard of a shunt being used like this in over 20 years of owning and reasonably often using one. Not sure I'd risk it but good luck and let us know how it goes if you do try! Be careful though.

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

"Leading:" tsk tsk. Real sloppy writing. Meant top roping on shunt!! Dreadful verbiage. Retire with foot in mouth.

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

In the roped access industry there have been deaths attributable to Shunts Ron once went half the height of Ranentor !
I'd use a Grigri and chest harness ( half an SRT rig) on top rope only Tie the bottom off and place gear
Also have krab clipped into the rope as the Grigri could fail if you take a high factor fall
Better safe than sorry

In reply to RobBrooks:

Sorry I meant a Croll not Grigri

In reply to RobBrooks:

Use a grigri or an eddy, its not worth the risk with the shunt!


Also, yeeeeeeeeerrrrggooooonnnnnaaaaaaDDDDDDIIIIIIIIEEEEEEE!

In reply to rocksol:

If the Croll fails I suspect it will probably take most of the rope with it, knowing how toothed ascenders 'fail' (usually at only ~4kN?), potentially rendering any backup knots useless...

Taking a fall onto a toothed ascender is a terrible, terrible idea (taking a 'slump' may be acceptable).

In reply to RobBrooks:

I have done it aid climbing and it was usable, but I didn't test it. I have a friend who did and he decked out.

A grigri would be a better bet. For aid climbing you can get away without the mod, but I think you'd need it for free climbing. Or one of the new grigri alternatives might be better. Either way I'd back up with knots.

In reply to RobBrooks:

As somebody has said above - search for 'death modified grigri'

They work very well for aid, they can be set up to work fairly well for free-climbing too but the whole process is a little clunky. I've never used any other devices. Personally I'd avoid a shunt for lead use, but have used them extensively for top rope soloing.

If you need more info on how to set up a death modded grigri you can drop me a PM.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

Something that's been much mooted on here. It's all a bit academic for this thread really since self-belay leading is obviously a non-starter with an ascender anyway - no way to pay out smoothly.
(A shunt is really a kind of ascender isn't it? Hmm.. But I digress.)

There's another issue with the Croll versus, say, a Basic that's worth a brief mention:

The top of the body of the device is sort of cut away, with just the one hole for the chest harness or strap to hold it up by. A Basic or handled ascender has more metal up there with the body wrapped around the rope and two holes that enable you to clip a karabiner through to secure the rope in the device - then, unlike the Croll, there is more than just the cam itself keeping the rope in the device. That's why Petzl say in their instructions that a Croll is *not* suitable for top-rope self belay, whereas a Basic is (with a karabiner enclosing the rope in that way).

Just a heads up for anyone who might be considering it - I'm assuming rocksol is aware of that and chooses to use the Croll anyway, as he's perfectly entitled to do.

In reply to rocksol:


A Croll, for roped solo leading? Darwin would be proud.
jk

In reply to RobBrooks:

As far as I understand it, the extremely expensive ones are also the best for this.

In reply to jkarran:


He did actually specify "on top rope only", although that doesn't quite answer the original question.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

I missed that in fairness, I suppose because the thread is about lead soloing but the Croll is still a terrible suggestion!
jk

In reply to RobBrooks:
I use a Petzl mini traction for top roped soloing. The best way I've found is to have it clipped to your waist harness as usual then use a loop of cord threaded through the krab hole and looped over your head, with enough room so you can look up and climb freely but tight it enough to keep it suspended. So you're basically making a sort of makeshift full body harness.

They are toothed but because its suspended by the cord, there is no fall to be had before it bites you just slump onto it, also insures it stays upright and pulls up the rope freely when you're climbing. I've used it a few times climbing quite hard routes and have found it works very well and does not hinder your movement while climbing.

In reply to RobBrooks:

Don't use a shunt
Don't use toothed ascender
Simple
Grigri is always a good option with a back up loop that will get you to the next rest

In reply to RobBrooks:

Used upside down (the orientation you´d need for leading) towing with a chest cord on the pivot point the feeding is far worse than a modded Grigri. With a thick rope it would be almost unthinkeable.
Heavily loaded (lead fall) with a single strand the rope and shunt will be destroyed.
With half-ropes the slack strand prevents the Shunt locking until the tensions in the strands are more or less equal.
I use a modded mk1 GriGri.
(The Soloist and Silent Partner are made by Rock Exotica.)