UKC

I've only been climbing sporadically over the last couple of years but used to climb regularly, mainly outdoors. I'm really keen to get back to the level I used to climb at the very least but preferably better. I can now boulder about twice a week indoors but feel like I've plateaued. I can do the easy grades and try harder problems but I feel like I'm just playing around with not much focus. Do I just need to be patient and it will all come back? Strength is a major issue for me, I'm way better on slabs. Also, I feel like I've lost the movements. Has anyone got any suggestions for ways to train? The wall I climb at has all the usual - training room, circuit room etc. I'm doing some strength stuff at home as well. It would be nice to have a good couple of outdoor climbs at Easter and then an ace summer of climbing

In reply to on a far off mountain:
I'd definitely get some structure to your sessions at the wall. If you feel that the movement's not there then I wouldn't bother with strength training at the wall - a bit at home can't hurt, but it's not a good use of time at the wall if you're not climbing with great technique.

If it was me, I'd make sure that I got *a lot* of volume in at the wall. Maybe spend 45mins warming up, climbing problems from the very easiest upwards with impeccable technique focusing on each foot placement being accurate (silent feet) and every body position, really exaggerating the straight arms/twist in positions on steep ground. Every problem should be made as 'unstrenuous' as possible. Downclimb everything, slowly. After 45mins of this, you should be really well warmed up and climbing somewhere towards your onsight limit (depending on how much there is to do at your wall!).

Then get on to problems at your limit, finding something that will go, but not yet. Have really good attempts with enough rest in between - i.e. really try to climb something hard. After an hour of this you should be done (even if you don't finish anything, you might do next session), after a little warm-down/stretch. That should be a pretty productive session.

If you train like that twice per week, you should definitely improve. It'll do an awful lot more for your climbing than finger-boarding and pull-ups.

Bear in mind that it is really hard to train stamina in the bouldering wall. Circuits tend to be too hard and are more like power-endurance. If you want to get fit for long trad routes, you'll need to train on routes (lots of'em, in blocks). But if you're heading for the grit, bouldering is better training, since the routes tend to just involve a couple of hard moves between ledges.

In reply to on a far off mountain:

You need to change your profile... its totally contradicts your introduction.

In adition to what Jon said, I'd advise bouldering outside more... there are more slabs at your grades and its nicer and the next few months are the best in the year. Some indoor walls suit people with your background more than others... have you tried Loughborough?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Jon provides some sage advice about the volume in to get the fluid movement back.

Best advice I can give you for structuring a session is to pick a single section of wall and get all the easy problems absolutely dialled, start every session by doing these as your warm up. This will help you zone in your mind and body as well as get the blood pumping, as you climb more keep doing as many new as previously climbed problems. Turning up to a wall where you don't know any climbs basically means your on sighting during your warm up which even if the climbing is well below your level it still takes its toll.

From this point I would advise you go down the strength route for bouldering, sport or trad. After about 6 weeks of hard bouldering then switch it to training for routes if that is your thing.

I train in the gym 80% of the time for climbing and loss of that fluidity can hamper performance. One trick I use is to switch to climbing low difficulty but high volume and climb 4-5 days in a row. A weeks not going to harm your strength training but your minds sense of where your body is and how to control it really sharpens up.

If you have any specific questions about structuring training for particular goals in strength, endurance and power the UKC gang can help.

Alx

In reply to on a far off mountain:

A huge thank you for all the advice, I've had a few really good sessions so feel like I've got somewhere. Just need to keep it up before heading outdoors in the sun! Will definitEly be back for some strength advice soon