UKC

Dry treatment worth it?

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 fire_munki 28 Feb 2016
I'm in the market for a pair of 60m halfs and am struggling to find any good deals bar a set of Mammut halfs from Rock n Run. These aren't dry treated and never having had dry treated ropes I'm wondering if it is worth the extra cash?
In reply to fire_munki:

Obvious question, what are you using them for?
 The Potato 28 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Yes if you are doing winter stuff or doing big mountain days in varied weather, otherwise probably not
1
OP fire_munki 28 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Mostly trad of dartmoor and sea cliffs. Mountains are a long way away from me but I do want to get back. Think dry treatment might be worth hunting out.

That leaves the question.... anyone seen any good deals £150ish max.
 Mr. Lee 28 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

I wouldn't bother if just personally unless definite plans for winter. You'll probably drop them in a sea a few times if taking them to see cliffs, which won't do the coating much good, and be less inclined to put the ropes through the washing machine afterwards.
OP fire_munki 28 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Will skip the dry treatment then, dartmoor and the sea cliffs grub mean I wash ropes a fair bit.

Found 3 deals going but quite frankly have no idea about what is better/different/shinier!

http://www.urbanrock.com/beal-legend-8-3mm-60m-pair-deal
http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/mammut-obsession-8-3mm?variant=997273... (buying one of each colour means the price is as near as dammit the same).

This one I wasn't sure if 8mm was too narrow for a day to day rope, I'd be heading out with folks who've not really used halfs as well as experienced climbers.
http://www.rockrun.com/deals/climbing-ropes/mammut-phoenix-classic-8mm-x-60...
 nutme 29 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

There's a deal in GoOutdoors for dry halfs
http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/edelrid-perfect-alpine-8-3mm-60m-p294072

Seems decent and was considering getting myself about a month ago, but went with more expensive ropes.
 Toerag 29 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:
> This one I wasn't sure if 8mm was too narrow for a day to day rope, I'd be heading out with folks who've not really used halfs as well as experienced climbers.

In my opinion 8s aren't worth it - not all belay devices work well enough and they don't last very long at all. Abrasion / cut resistance is directly proportional to diameter, is it worth a tiny bit of weight saving for significantly increased risk of injury and loss of rope life? 8.5s is as low as I'd go, 8.3s were simply too slick and short-lasting.
Post edited at 12:47
OP fire_munki 29 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

So looking at the amount of falls for the edelrid ropes I'm ruling them out, I think the beal is most likely one but I'm still wary of the diameter.

Any one seen any other deals, I could prob push up to £200 at a mega stretch. Needs to be 60m I think, seen a few good deals on 50m sets.
OP fire_munki 29 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:
http://www.cave-crag.co.uk/tendon-ambition-8-5mm-climbing-rope

Is looking the best deal but have never heard of them? Anyone used them (them being the shop, I've got a tendon single)?
Post edited at 22:33
 Jim Lancs 29 Feb 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Are you sure you need 60m double ropes for trad?

I've only wished I had longer than 50s when winter climbing.
OP fire_munki 29 Feb 2016
In reply to Jim Lancs:
Valid point, I've only ever had my own 50m single and used partner halfs in exchange for lugging the rack!

So I'm open to advice from others! Wish I could find an idiots guide, cos at times I sure do feel one.

EDIT: Found a guide on Needlesports, awesome. 50m could well save a nice bit of cash.
Post edited at 22:55
 Nathan Adam 01 Mar 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

A really good set that I've used for everything from single pitch cragging to alpine scale rock climbs on the Ben, sea cliffs and winter routes for the past three seasons and they have only just started to show signs of wear. Superb value for money if you ask me.

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/mammut-meteor-8-3mm-superdry?utm_medi...
 HeMa 01 Mar 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Dry is really nice for winter climbing... but if it is scottish mixed, the treatment will wear out quite quickly. Same applies for all rock activities.
In reply to fire_munki:

I have a pair of brand new and wrap-packed Mammut Genesis 8.5, 60m, Superdry (now called Protect).

Offered to you or anyone else at half price - £155 + postage (or collect from Sheffield).

Happy to send photos/ provide full spec.
 bpmclimb 05 Mar 2016
In reply to fairweatherclimber:

> Offered to you or anyone else at half price - £155 + postage (or collect from Sheffield).


Half what price? Presumably the highest RRP you can find: the one that companies quote and then put a line through when they're trying to make their own deal sound good. We've come to expect this from companies but I do wish that individuals wouldn't feel the need to emulate them.

Having said that, for a pair of new and wrapped Genesis, £155 isn't a bad deal for somebody, so have a free bump

 bpmclimb 05 Mar 2016
In reply to Toerag:

> In my opinion 8s aren't worth it - not all belay devices work well enough and they don't last very long at all. Abrasion / cut resistance is directly proportional to diameter, is it worth a tiny bit of weight saving for significantly increased risk of injury and loss of rope life? 8.5s is as low as I'd go, 8.3s were simply too slick and short-lasting.


After using skinny 60s for many years, I've come round to that way of thinking. My last pair were Beal Jokers (9.1mm), and I went for 50m rather than 60, which offsets the extra weight in the rucksack. I genuinely don't notice the extra thickness and weight on the lead, and I have all that extra resistance to wear and damage. It's also more comforting if I have a relative novice belaying me - and I have the bonus that each rope of my pair is rated as a single. I got 2x50m golden dry for just over £200; I believe you can still get the dry cover version for under £100 if you shop around.
In reply to bpmclimb:

Ha, rumbled!!

Yes you're right of course, that's half RRP. But there's no deal online close to this value.

Happy to send photos if anyone interested in the pair of Mammut Genesis 8.5mm, 60m, Superdry/ Protect.
In reply to fairweatherclimber:

Last bump

Pair of Mammut Genesis Superdry 8.5mm, 60m.

£155 + postage (£8 ish) or collect Sheffield

On ebay later at rather more ££
 CurlyStevo 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Toerag:
> In my opinion 8s aren't worth it - not all belay devices work well enough and they don't last very long at all. Abrasion / cut resistance is directly proportional to diameter, is it worth a tiny bit of weight saving for significantly increased risk of injury and loss of rope life? 8.5s is as low as I'd go, 8.3s were simply too slick and short-lasting.

Abrasion resistance isn't really a function of diameter. The sheath thickness (which is exposed indirectly as sheath percentage), bobbin count, tightness of weave of the sheath and dry coating (which allows the rope to glide over rock better as its slippery) are the major factors here.

I'm currently using a pair of 8.5 Genesis but only as I bought them when Swanage was my local crag and its short walkins with plenty of sharp rock around. Each of these ropes is more than burly enough for a second independently on each rope.

Have you tried the Mammut Pheonix 8mm? abrasion wise my last pair were very well used and lasted 5 years I'm not the only UKC poster to comment on how hard wearing they are.

Beal ropes do have a certain reputation for wearing out quickly IMO.
Post edited at 17:05
 CurlyStevo 10 Mar 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:
> After using skinny 60s for many years, I've come round to that way of thinking. My last pair were Beal Jokers (9.1mm), and I went for 50m rather than 60, which offsets the extra weight in the rucksack. I genuinely don't notice the extra thickness and weight on the lead, and I have all that extra resistance to wear and damage. It's also more comforting if I have a relative novice belaying me - and I have the bonus that each rope of my pair is rated as a single. I got 2x50m golden dry for just over £200; I believe you can still get the dry cover version for under £100 if you shop around.

If you do the maths you'll probably be surprised to find out that not only do the thinner phoenix and the genesis have thicker sheaths than the 9.1mm joker but there is actually more weight of sheath per metre in the 8.5mm genesis than the 9.1mm joker.

I reckon its a no brainer that the genesis are likely to have greater resistance to wear. A lot of these triple rated ropes have quite a low sheath proportion IMO so are unlikely to wear as well as many thinner half ropes when used that way.
Post edited at 18:01

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