In reply to Toerag:
> In my opinion 8s aren't worth it - not all belay devices work well enough and they don't last very long at all. Abrasion / cut resistance is directly proportional to diameter, is it worth a tiny bit of weight saving for significantly increased risk of injury and loss of rope life? 8.5s is as low as I'd go, 8.3s were simply too slick and short-lasting.
Abrasion resistance isn't really a function of diameter. The sheath thickness (which is exposed indirectly as sheath percentage), bobbin count, tightness of weave of the sheath and dry coating (which allows the rope to glide over rock better as its slippery) are the major factors here.
I'm currently using a pair of 8.5 Genesis but only as I bought them when Swanage was my local crag and its short walkins with plenty of sharp rock around. Each of these ropes is more than burly enough for a second independently on each rope.
Have you tried the Mammut Pheonix 8mm? abrasion wise my last pair were very well used and lasted 5 years
I'm not the only UKC poster to comment on how hard wearing they are.
Beal ropes do have a certain reputation for wearing out quickly IMO.
Post edited at 17:05