In reply to MischaHY:
Well at you certainly won't be struggling to find classics to do in the 6b-8b range!
In July you'll probably be splitting your time between Cascade (shade in the mornings, only for those who are motivated enough for the early wake up!) and the main Ceuse sectors (shade from about 1pm).
At Cascade you'll find steep endurance test pieces, I haven't been on a bad route over 7b but I'd maybe avoid the stuff under, tends to be a little polished, not much easier than the harder stuff and definitely not a good warm up.
Not to be missed:
Vagabond 7c
Blanche fesses 7c
Privilege 7c+
The main sectors offer ever more choice. Basically from left to right you have:
Berlin - classic Ceuse, everything here is hard but fantastic. Roughly 10 degree, 7b+ to 8b mainly. Almost every route is a classic, so expect to queue in June.
Biographie - realm of the heroes, mostly 8b upwards but the brilliant les Collonettes 7c+/8a is a must.
Demi Lune - More vertical offerings on the left, Femme Blanche, Changement de Look, Meloday Nelson and Angel Dust are the obvious to go for. Further right is Ceuse most frequented easier routes, expect polish and not much change in grade from the 7s.
Pont - Great intro into Ceuse, I'd advise going here day one. Great selection of 7a's and in general a slightly friendly feeling in grading. Obviously there is also the wild Bourinator to get to grips with if you like horizontal roof thugging at 8a, or its little sister Bibendum at 7b+.
Grande Face - Crowds getting you down? Make the extra walk round to Grande Face. Usually quieter and comes into the shade earlier. Climbing has quite a different character to the rest of Ceuse. In general Grande Face is newer, and the bolting/grades reflect that (softer and more bolts). The 4 pitch Inesperance 6a+/6b+/6c+/7a is unmissable, topping out of Ceuse. The 3rd pitch is one of the best pitches of climbing I've done.
In all honesty, there are too many good routes to list. In fact, I can't really think of a single bad route.. I mean it is the best crag in the world!
