UKC

Hi guy's

In two weeks I'll be in the area of Southampton for a weekend with my girlfriend.
As I'd like to introduce her to rock climbing I'd like to know if there's a good practicing area in Southampton.
Is there a climing topo of the area?

Thanks in advance,
Rik (Netherlands)

In reply to rhoppen:

Southampton is second only to Friesland in the league table of the World's top climbing venues!

There is an inside wall at Calshot, and after that you will have to travel with the closest real rock (ifaik) Swanage / Portland.

There's a searchable map here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/

Ignore the stuff on the Isle of Wight.

In reply to Jim Lancs:

Swanage looks good. Think we'll go there.

In reply to rhoppen:


As an introduction most of it might seem rather intimidating. Portland is probably friendlier for easy sport climbing with a lot more crags that don't need abseil approaches. Having said that, Subluminal does seem to attract a lot of inexperienced climbers.

Have you considered doing what she wants to do, rather than what you want to do? Have you considered whether taking a beginner sea-cliff climbing in the UK in early March is very likely to result in a desire to do more climbing?

If you must go to Swanage, there's some crap easy sports routes in quarries. Otherwise provided you have a trad rack, Cattle Troughs is the only beginners area that doesn't need an abseil approach and the nervous will prefer a rope for the descent even there. Subluminal is also popular for low-grade routes but requires either an abseil approach or a steady head for the scramble down the eastern end and traverse along the discontinuous ledge at the bottom of the routes.

Portland is better for low-grade sports routes but is starting to be quite a long journey from Southampton.

In reply to rhoppen:
There is no real rock in Southampton, you could try one of the indoor walls: Calshot, Golden Gecko or St Mary's. If you are desperate for real rock you are better off heading west to Portland, about an hour and a half to two hour drive each way. Or you could try Dancing Ledge (its a bit closer but still about an hour and a half drive) Dancing Ledge

Enjoy the lovely weather!

In reply to Dogwatch:

Time-wise, there's not a lot in it between portland and swanage from Southampton.

In reply to gav:

If one is driving then obviously it would depend on the traffic, however since the O.P. comes from The Netherlands and is only visiting for the weekend, perhaps driving won't be an option. In which case getting a train from Southampton to Weymouth and then catching the bus to Portland is a lot easier than getting the train to Wareham, then one or more buses to either Langton Matravers (for Hedbury - some very easy sport climbing -- or Dancing Ledge - quite hard sport climbing and short easy trad/top roping) or Worth Matravers (for Winspit - medium sport climbing, also various trad options where I wouldn't recommend taking a beginner) or Swanage and then Durlston (for Subluminal - some easy trad, not too intimidating but abseil entry -- or Cattle Troughs - some easy trad i.e. Scrambler's Wall just to the west of the way down, and one doesn't have to abseil in).

In reply to rhoppen:

Dancing Ledge at Swanage, where Ialways take non climbing friends keen on giving it a go - easy walk in, non tidal, 2 minute family friendly scramble down, large non tidal ledge (avoid if stormy), trad routes from mod upwards, 5 - 10m, bolts at the top. Perfect intro to outdoor climbing, but bear in mind the temperature, if its too cold go for a walk, brill day out. Sorted.

In reply to gav:


I've driven it many times and I beg to differ.

In reply to philhilo:


Good point, didn't consider Dancing Ledge. Though it is a bit of a stretch to describe them as routes and I'm not sure about 5-10m http://www.kidsclimbing.co.uk/images/topos/dancingledge/DancingLedgeview-8-...

In reply to Dogwatch:

The routes in the old quarry at Dancing Ledge, rather than the seaward wall, as shown in the topo you linked are a bit higher.

It is important to take the sea state into account if you climb at either Subluminal or Cattle Troughs. People have been washed into the sea at both crags.

In reply to Andy Manthorpe:


The sport routes on the back wall of the quarry wouldn't be suitable for introducing a beginner to climbing though, there isn't anything I would consider easy, and the less hard routes are very polished.

In reply to Andy Manthorpe:


At Subluminal the fault line is quite high and it would take a large winter swell to wash you off. I've seen people go down to sea level to get around to Avernus on days with a swell and I'm not at all sure they understood the risk they were running.

Cattle Troughs is more serious, the fault line is only a couple of metres above sea level and being washed off is a very real possibility. With a swell running there it isn't obvious how you are ever going to get back onto the ledge in one piece.

In reply to rhoppen:

Southampton rock is right up there with Norfolk rock and the Rotterdam Alps. Good luck you could hire a car, drive down to Studland, (via the crazy chain ferry?) walk to the Agglestone for some bouldering, walk a bit of the very beautiful coast path and go for a pint and a pasty at the Square and Compass at Worth Martravers. Will also be handy for Corfe Castle which is always impressive.

Also, get out of Southampton. I went to school there - not much reason to go back!

Have fun



B