UKC

Good evening UKC hive mind. Looking for some advice regarding rock shoes...

I have a pair of Anasazi Verdes which are probably the best shoes I've ever climbed in. However, with them being discontinued, I want to save them for my Send-day best, and get a pair of shoes that fit and perform similarly-ish but that are a little cheaper And more widely available so I can abuse them at the wall.

Was thinking off the top of my head... Evolv Bandit lace? Any other suggestions gratefully received!

Edit: for reference, I am but a punter so they'd only be for routes up to and around 6b/c and bouldering around F6a/b.

In reply to alexm198:

What size shoe are you? I have a pair too small for me that could be going.

In reply to cap'nChino:

I take a UK9.5 in the Anasazis

In reply to alexm198:

Take a look at the Tenaya Masai. Similar fit IMO but better build quality. Alternatively the Scarpa Helix is back and looking gorgeous in blue. Might not be quite the same fit, but amazing value.

In reply to alexm198:

New 5.10 Anasazi Verdon?

In reply to alexm198:

I realise I'm not answering the question you asked but have you tried the pinks? Like the greens but better?

In reply to alexm198:

Sorry, only have 10.5's

In reply to alexm198:

I used swear by Verdes and wore out 5 or 6 pairs but recently discovered La Sportiva Miuras. Their fit is similar to the 5.10s but (IMO) they're stickier and edge better.

In reply to mcdougal:



really......? They look much more aggressively down turned than the verdes.

I went for the tenaya Masai as mentioned above, can't say I am blown away by them as a replacement to be honest

In reply to Ysgo:

Ahh yes! The Tenaya Masai!

Thanks for reminding me about these. I actually climbed in a mate's pair a while back and was struck by how similarly they performed.

In reply to galpinos:

Interesting. Still, can't justify buying a shoe like that to trash at the wall. Useful to know though, might be a good replacement when the greens finally go!

In reply to alexm198:

They are a bit stiffer than the greens ( not as stiff as the old whites or the Masai) but bed in to a really lovely all round shoe. (Standard foot shape caveat applies....)

Like the blog by the way, good stuff.

In reply to galpinos:

Good to know, I found a similar thing with the greens in that they seems a bit stiff and unresponsive for the first twenty routes or so and then became amazingly well fitted and sensitive. Will certainly try the pinks out!

And thanks for your kind words about the blog - that means a lot!

In reply to alexm198:

Yes, the pinks seem to have a similar fit to the Verdes, although just as expensive (some bargains around sometimes though).

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

I was looking at images of Miuras to post in reply and have to agree that they do look a lot more aggressive than Verdes. I didn't find them too uncomfortable (after I broke them in) however, and now they feel similar in fit.