UKC

DESTINATION GUIDE: An Introduction to Welsh Slate Trad - VS-E2

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 UKC Articles 09 Mar 2016
Looking down into the quarry from the ‘Skyline level’ near the top. , 3 kbOn visiting Welsh slate for the first time, many climbers will find themselves at Australia's Sidings with its comfortable ledge and wide selection of amenable sport routes. Or perhaps Plateau Slab, where a slab of easy to moderate well-bolted sport routes provides ideal ticking ground for the F5-6a climber.

However, if you're ticking routes between F4+ and F6a/a+ with ease in these areas, then there are some amazing trad experiences waiting to be sought out in the slate quarries. Ellie Fuller takes us on a guided tour of some of the best routes, beginning at VS and getting progressively harder, up to E2.



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In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article, really enjoyed that - and that's coming from someone who hasn't really enjoyed climbing on the slate in years!
 Owen W-G 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

I can confirm that the pipe on Pull my Daisy holds exceptionally long falls.
 jsmcfarland 09 Mar 2016
In reply to Owen W-G:

Holy crap. Mega respect to you!
 spidermonkey09 09 Mar 2016
In reply to Owen W-G:

Jesus Christ! I thought it looked bomber but...wouldn't fancy it myself!
In reply to UKC Articles: +1 to what Rob said!! If you can do Psychotherapy and Pull My Daisy then you have a good shot at doing The Dervish.

This reminds me I really need to go and do Poetry Pink...
 spidermonkey09 09 Mar 2016
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Been psyched for that for ages, was going to get on it last spring but it was blowing a gale and was concerned about getting blown off the crux rockover!

Soft E5 is a bit of a siren song...
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice article, but it's Bela Lugosi FFS, not Bella. Fellow was a male Hungarian horror-movie star, not an Italian porn star.

jcm
6
 ianstevens 09 Mar 2016
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Spoiler: It's f*cking terrifying.
 StuLade 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely article, Welsh Slate psych is back; keen to reacquaint myself with some these beauties.
 Will Hunt 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wot, no Patellaectomy?
 Mick Ward 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

A really lovely article. Many thanks.

'What’s more, you get incredible views over the Llyn Padarn and into Llanberis Pass, you can see right across to Indian Face on Cloggy and the quarries themselves have a kind of special otherworldly atmosphere to them. They’re just an amazing place to be in and to explore!'

Couldn't agree more.

Mick
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 10 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely article. Great to see someone leaving the comfort of the sport routes to enjoy slate at it best on the trad. With a ticklish like that The Dervish is within easy reach for you!
 simoninger 10 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article. Never climbed on slate - nothing against it just never got round to it - but this piece is the perfect combination of information, emotion and inspiration that would get anyone there.
 jkarran 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Owen W-G:

> I can confirm that the pipe on Pull my Daisy holds exceptionally long falls.

The micros protecting the 'unprotected' start work too, not that I'd recommend anyone else testing their luck on them.

Nice article with some lovely pictures. Time to rekindle my love affair with the place this summer
jk
Post edited at 10:26
 treesrockice 10 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:
This is great, think i was at the crag when you did fools gold. Glad to see monster kitten in there my favorite slate route, I have done most of the others you mention, but no holy holy holy ?

 BAdhoc 14 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good article, I've done a fair few mentioned, and have more on the list. I can attain to Massambula being awesome (but it was my first E2 so that probably made me bias) Bise-mon-cul is also incredible.

Comes the dervish however... well round two hopefully this year with no landing on brass micros hopefully.
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