UKC

St Leger - Best Routes in the 7s

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 Dan Arkle 09 Mar 2016
I'm off to St Leger on Friday, and I'm looking for route recomendations.

I love super-long stamina routes, and want some 7b and 7c onsight targets. I may also project an 8a if there is one that is long and not too cruxy.

thanks
 innes 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Arquée Pieds Tendre (7b+)

Les Clowns (7c)

Both are world class and 35-42m long.
Wait for a cloudy day before getting on Arquee... as it faces due south.
Les Clowns faces north so gets very consistent conditions.

Enjoy!
OP Dan Arkle 10 Mar 2016
In reply to innes:

Sounds great, thank you
Degaine 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Les Clowns you must do but it might be colder down on the north face.

The forecast is good with maybe showers on Monday. The south faces will be warm.

In secteur Andalouse you must do Le Temple de la Méduse 7b. Lots of good warm ups in this secteur to.

Degaine
 DDDD 11 Mar 2016
In reply to Dan Arkle:

La Baleine sector has many routes in the 7's, most of which are pretty long - 1984 is great and goes on for 40m, onsightable but a bit pumpy. There's a downloadable topo for this sector called St Leger Additif 2013.pdf. De La Houle Du Grain is great but hard for 7c.

At sector Andalouse I remember enjoying Mano Negra as it is varied

All the 6's that I've done at St. Leger have been good as well both the two and three star routes
OP Dan Arkle 11 Mar 2016
In reply to DDDD:

Thanks all, I'm getting excited!
 DDDD 11 Mar 2016
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Don't forget the other cliffs in the area - Baume Rousse is lovely and has a fab 35m 8a called Rigpa ou L'esprit du Natur, it goes all the way to the belay, steep and pumpy. Other routes there are pretty good too.

BTW. St Leger is my favourite french sport crag

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