UKC

Hey there,

i saw a video of Ben Moon climbing "Statement of youth" at Lower Pen Trwyn and now i want to climb this route!

I am a German climber and have never been to Wales. So i have some questions and hope you can help me.

When is the best time in the year to give it a try?
Any recommendations of accomodation? Maybe as close that no car is needed?!

best wishes
Dominik

In reply to Don Camill:

What an excellent ambition. From the logbook on here looks like it only had four ascents last year, and on 8a.nu I don't see any obviously non-British names on the list.

Sleeping in the caves above the crag used to be traditional, see Jerry Moffat's book, but I guess probably not the done thing any more.

In reply to AlanLittle:


It was barely tolerated by the Rangers. They would do their first patrols around Marine Drive at about 6.30am and would often tell us to move on.

In reply to BlownAway:

People still doss in or around the cave for the odd night, there are also lots of B&Bs in Llandudno which may be cheap midweek and during school term. The crag getsvsome morning sun but is otherwise quite shady so late spring /summer is generall fine, a bit chilly in winter.

In reply to Don Camillo:
Get hold of the lastest, excellent guidebook,' North Wales Limestone' by Pete Harrison and Andy Boorman. The intro to LPT gives good advice on finding good conditions at the crag. The UK distributer is Cordee.
Just renember that climbing on LPT can be very frustrating, having to contend with the tides, seepage and humidity. There's loads of other routes to go at on many other crags however if you can't get on Statement.
The sun goes off the crag in the early afternoon and generally anytime from early spring to late Autumn can be good.
B and B's and hotels in Llandudno as said, approximately 15 to 30 minutes walk away.
It may of had only 4 new ascents last year but it's regularly lapped by some of the locals, as are the other 8a's.
Try UK Bouldering for more advive, which despite the name has a good proportion of comitted sport climbers.

In reply to lostcat:

Thanks for the informations! It helped me a lot

:-D