UKC

Got some tickets booked for Barcelona in April and Plan A is to head towards Lleida/Terradets, but this is totally flexible as no accomdation booked currently. I know there is all sorts of climbing in the area but can anyone reccomend anywhere for longish multi pitch VS/HVS ish routes in the general area.
We are fairly experienced so adventerous stuff is OK.
Cheers

In reply to Lenin:

There's a bunch in Terradets gorge... albeit I think majority of the routes would be f6a/+ or harder, so hard HVS or E1.

Vilanova de Meià has a bunch of stuff that I know is more suited.

There are still most likely bolts on said routes.

Montserrat just outside Barcelona might also have something for ya.

In reply to Lenin:

If you're OK with 'adventurous stuff' then the best place for trad and semi-trad climbing in Catalunya is the Gorge of Montrebei (Paret de Catalunya and Paret d'Aragon). It's an incredibly impressive canyon marking the border between Catalunya and Aragon, with routes up to 500m.

For such a wild-feeling place the access isn't too bad — 30 minutes drive from Àger and then between 30-50 minutes downhill walk into the gorge.

Just type 'escalada montrebei' into Google and you'll find a wealth of information + topos.

Two other famous multi-pitch venues — Terradets and Vilanova de Meià are situated (roughly speaking) in the same neck of the woods...

Pete.

Pete.

In reply to Lenin:

Dear Heha and Pete,
thank you very much for the tips. They sound great. Is the Semi Trad a bit like climbing in the Dolomites, kind of if its VS there will be a bolt/peg at the VS cruxes and the S/HS bits inbetween its up to you.

Regards Steve

In reply to Lenin:


It varies from route to route though in general, yes. The main thing to look out for is the 'obligatory' grade i.e. the hardest move where you can't pull on a piece of gear. This is always mentioned in the route topo.

Pete.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Cheers, I think my mate has a guide you wrote, but if not we shall get it.

In reply to Lenin:


It's a sport-climbing guidebook — no trad routes are included (although there is coverage of some multi-pitch sport).

There are local guidebooks: the one covering Montrebei is called 'Montsec Oeste'. However, it's way out of date and the number of new routes renders it pretty useless. Far better to just trawl through the stuff online — there are loads of topos/approach maps available.

Pete.

In reply to Lenin:



It was ordered yesterday, should have it tomorrow.

In reply to Lenin:

Routes that are strictly trad aren't that common in the area and at the grade you suggest they are likely to cover the less inspiring bits of rock. However, if you want quality rock and BIG exposure and can put up with bolts I would recommend CADE at Terradets 5+ which is bang on at VS/HVS.

Its flipping huge, 20 odd pitches, but lots of stuff you can climb quickly. Plus its bolted with the route name stamped on the hangers so no excuse for getting lost. Also there's an exit ledge at about half way if you're running out of time (or a pretty easy descent from the top if you finish late)

The bottom of the gorge is in the shade in the morning and is a wind funnel so you might be discouraged by the temperature when you first arrive. However, once you're on the face wind is much less a feature.

Photo topo here

https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/316377942545138539/

Have fun.

In reply to colin struthers:

Thanks Colin, that sounds great, I am not a Bolt snob, one of the best days I have had was Sound of Silence at Surtana. Thanks again.