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Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=636610
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXMM7n-4IA4&
Posters:
The Ex-Engineer: Another solid week of mileage, good job on the 7a flash after a winter on the tools!
Biscuit: How did you stand up to the waddage at Parisella’s?
AJM: Glad to hear the toe’s feeling better. How’s Bishop?
HMS: Any further work on Cider Soak this week?
JayK: sounds like a good week of training even if you weren’t firing on all cylinders! Manage to get out this week?
Joyce: oosh, bet 2 back to back parents evenings was the real crux of the week!
SidH: Good effort on crazy horse! Great that you’ve identified some areas of weakness from the trip too – that’s something I should definitely start doing. Hard to be properly self-critical sometimes.
Ally Smith: Glad you’re on the mend! Any progress on the new Malham project?
Emily: How’s it going in Spain? I’m interested as to why you place ‘leading a VS’ in your minor miracle goals?! If you’re climbing 6c you’d fly up trad routes harder than VS with no issue!
Nick Russell: Better weather in Margalef this week?
Dandan: I’m also lurgified this week so I share your pain! Good job fitting in a couple of sessions anyway, and I’m sure the rest will have positive effects in the long run. Manage to get those 3 sessions in this week?
Cha1n: Sorry to hear you had a poor week – find the balance to make consistency possible is tricky. Forgive my ignorance but what’s a murple?
Planetmarshall: good investment of time with the benchmark test, I might steal that idea!
Robin Brooke: Any improvement on the injury this week? I know the frustration!
TonyB: how’s it going in the states? Where abouts are you?
Just Tintin: what was the physio’s verdict? Also, explain continuity to me?!
JamesMoyle: hope this week was better!
Stevemarkperry: Sunday in the lakes sounds beaut! Glad the foot is improving!
Ian Bell: do you have a climbing-specific yoga routine or is it just separate? Good effort knackering yourself on a tupperware – solid manly injury.
Hokkyokusei: ah yes, licking the walls – never a good idea. Feeling better this week?
Humperdink: some solid mileage. What time are you aiming for at Reading?
Curious Yellow: how was the haribo consumption this week?
Mattrm: Good job on getting some routes done! Any more mileage this week?
0.5Viking: good job on trying the ice route, I guess it’s getting a little late in the season now!
Flopsicle: sounds like a good week last week, you’ve earnt a write-off week!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=636610
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXMM7n-4IA4&
Posters:
The Ex-Engineer: Another solid week of mileage, good job on the 7a flash after a winter on the tools!
Biscuit: How did you stand up to the waddage at Parisella’s?
AJM: Glad to hear the toe’s feeling better. How’s Bishop?
HMS: Any further work on Cider Soak this week?
JayK: sounds like a good week of training even if you weren’t firing on all cylinders! Manage to get out this week?
Joyce: oosh, bet 2 back to back parents evenings was the real crux of the week!
SidH: Good effort on crazy horse! Great that you’ve identified some areas of weakness from the trip too – that’s something I should definitely start doing. Hard to be properly self-critical sometimes.
Ally Smith: Glad you’re on the mend! Any progress on the new Malham project?
Emily: How’s it going in Spain? I’m interested as to why you place ‘leading a VS’ in your minor miracle goals?! If you’re climbing 6c you’d fly up trad routes harder than VS with no issue!
Nick Russell: Better weather in Margalef this week?
Dandan: I’m also lurgified this week so I share your pain! Good job fitting in a couple of sessions anyway, and I’m sure the rest will have positive effects in the long run. Manage to get those 3 sessions in this week?
Cha1n: Sorry to hear you had a poor week – find the balance to make consistency possible is tricky. Forgive my ignorance but what’s a murple?
Planetmarshall: good investment of time with the benchmark test, I might steal that idea!
Robin Brooke: Any improvement on the injury this week? I know the frustration!
TonyB: how’s it going in the states? Where abouts are you?
Just Tintin: what was the physio’s verdict? Also, explain continuity to me?!
JamesMoyle: hope this week was better!
Stevemarkperry: Sunday in the lakes sounds beaut! Glad the foot is improving!
Ian Bell: do you have a climbing-specific yoga routine or is it just separate? Good effort knackering yourself on a tupperware – solid manly injury.
Hokkyokusei: ah yes, licking the walls – never a good idea. Feeling better this week?
Humperdink: some solid mileage. What time are you aiming for at Reading?
Curious Yellow: how was the haribo consumption this week?
Mattrm: Good job on getting some routes done! Any more mileage this week?
0.5Viking: good job on trying the ice route, I guess it’s getting a little late in the season now!
Flopsicle: sounds like a good week last week, you’ve earnt a write-off week!
1
In reply to alexm198:
Forgive my ignorance but what’s a murple?
I'm guessing it's a portmanteau of mauve and purple? Maroon and purple?
Forgive my ignorance but what’s a murple?
I'm guessing it's a portmanteau of mauve and purple? Maroon and purple?
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for starting the thread Alex.
I thought my foot-on campussing was coming on, and then CY posted and put me completely to shame.
Cheers Si, I've always been pretty handy on grit and it was good to come back and get on some decent problems. Looks like you had a good trip to font. I really liked Crazy Horse. It's really burly. Let me know if you ever want a belay on Arch Enemies/spot on Paint it Black. I'd really like to get on both.
M-Warm up. Foot-on campus 3min30 with 3min off. x 4. 2 sets of core.
T-Rest
W-Warm up. Foot-on campus 4min on with 3min off x 4.
T- Rest
F-An attempt at an Ancap fingerboard session... Repeaters(7 hangs in each set) 11 sets of 7 on 3 off with 2 minute rests. Really pumped during this, could barely hold on at the end. 2 sets of core before doing around 25 v2-4 problems. Good going for a Friday.
S-Rest
S-1 hour board session. Felt crap and thought I'd gone backwards for the first half, progressively worked back into and felt ahead of where I was a month ago by the end of the session. Foot on - 4min30 on 3min x 4. Building it up, not sure I've got the patience to get up to 8minutes on! Hoping to do a couple of sets of core this evening.
Thanks for starting the thread Alex.
I thought my foot-on campussing was coming on, and then CY posted and put me completely to shame.
Cheers Si, I've always been pretty handy on grit and it was good to come back and get on some decent problems. Looks like you had a good trip to font. I really liked Crazy Horse. It's really burly. Let me know if you ever want a belay on Arch Enemies/spot on Paint it Black. I'd really like to get on both.
M-Warm up. Foot-on campus 3min30 with 3min off. x 4. 2 sets of core.
T-Rest
W-Warm up. Foot-on campus 4min on with 3min off x 4.
T- Rest
F-An attempt at an Ancap fingerboard session... Repeaters(7 hangs in each set) 11 sets of 7 on 3 off with 2 minute rests. Really pumped during this, could barely hold on at the end. 2 sets of core before doing around 25 v2-4 problems. Good going for a Friday.
S-Rest
S-1 hour board session. Felt crap and thought I'd gone backwards for the first half, progressively worked back into and felt ahead of where I was a month ago by the end of the session. Foot on - 4min30 on 3min x 4. Building it up, not sure I've got the patience to get up to 8minutes on! Hoping to do a couple of sets of core this evening.
Post edited at 15:38
1
In reply to JayK:
Doesn't sound like AnCap - you should be utterly powered down but not really at all pumped.
Try longer rests between reps (1:3 or 1:4 work to rest ratio - yours was less than 1:2), 10:3 rather than 7:3, and a smaller hold. Aim for 60-80s of 10:3s as your max effort, then rest ~4 minutes, then go again.
> F-An attempt at an Ancap fingerboard session... Repeaters(7 hangs in each set) 11 sets of 7 on 3 off with 2 minute rests. Really pumped during this, could barely hold on at the end. 2 sets of core before doing around 25 v2-4 problems. Good going for a Friday.
Doesn't sound like AnCap - you should be utterly powered down but not really at all pumped.
Try longer rests between reps (1:3 or 1:4 work to rest ratio - yours was less than 1:2), 10:3 rather than 7:3, and a smaller hold. Aim for 60-80s of 10:3s as your max effort, then rest ~4 minutes, then go again.
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex.
One day in (we are ~7 hours behind here so it's Sunday morning still) and having fun. Learning points so far:
- (looking from the ground) the little fluttery highball symbols don't mess about.
- going to have to go 2on1off not 3on1off as the rock is quite aggressive on the skin
- some of the stuff at the Happys is pretty well loved
- it's a beautiful place. Went through Death Valley on the way here which was also beautiful and pretty otherworldly.
- my body doesn't understand the trick move on Incredible Hulk
> AJM: Glad to hear the toe’s feeling better. How’s Bishop?
Cheers Alex.
One day in (we are ~7 hours behind here so it's Sunday morning still) and having fun. Learning points so far:
- (looking from the ground) the little fluttery highball symbols don't mess about.
- going to have to go 2on1off not 3on1off as the rock is quite aggressive on the skin
- some of the stuff at the Happys is pretty well loved
- it's a beautiful place. Went through Death Valley on the way here which was also beautiful and pretty otherworldly.
- my body doesn't understand the trick move on Incredible Hulk
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex, yeh hoping to sort things out on the consistency front or at least try not to get too stressed out about it anyway.
Sorry, forget that Murples are a climbing works thing. They're a circuit colour at the works, a combinations of mint and purple so I'm told. Can't remember the grade range, Font 6C+ to 7B perhaps? My favourite holds at the works!
> Cha1n: Sorry to hear you had a poor week – find the balance to make consistency possible is tricky. Forgive my ignorance but what’s a murple?
Cheers Alex, yeh hoping to sort things out on the consistency front or at least try not to get too stressed out about it anyway.
Sorry, forget that Murples are a climbing works thing. They're a circuit colour at the works, a combinations of mint and purple so I'm told. Can't remember the grade range, Font 6C+ to 7B perhaps? My favourite holds at the works!
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex! The hard bit about the weaknesses is having the willpower to work on them now I've identified them though
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), had a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn£t do the crux. Didn£t try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
Was still ill at the start of the week.
M: ill
T: ill
W: 80% better. Did a max hang session on the fingerboard. Had to lower the weight a bit since the previous one a fortnight ago. 4x10 seconds each: 18mm edge bw+29.9kg, small 2 finger pocket +2.3 kg, roof pinches +4.5 kg.
T: core exercises
F: shoulder rehab
S: bouldering at Wrights Rock. Did Fingers Sit-start (7A+) which I had tried once last year- good problem. Tried various beta on Simple Simon (7B+) but can't do the crux at the moment. Then spent some time working Wright's Traverse (7B). Did all but one move with some good links. The one move remaining felt really hard but I was already tired when I first tried it, so hoping it'll feel easier when fresh. Also did some core exercises in the evening.
S: Core and shoulder rehab while watching the F1 (v early start), then a looonnng drive to Kent via Oxford. Big lunch out and cake...
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 6lbs. Of the 6 lb gain vs the week before, about 3 lb was real from Font and the rest from Ruth's birthday cakes on Sunday...I was very full when I weighed myself!
Having said that, I just ate a load more cake for Ruth's granddad's 90th. Family birthdays are non-complimentary to dieting for climbing!
Not a bad week considering the lurgy, hope to get back on Wright's on Friday morning possibly. Away from home until Tuesday evening.
Si
Cheers Alex! The hard bit about the weaknesses is having the willpower to work on them now I've identified them though
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), had a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn£t do the crux. Didn£t try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
Was still ill at the start of the week.
M: ill
T: ill
W: 80% better. Did a max hang session on the fingerboard. Had to lower the weight a bit since the previous one a fortnight ago. 4x10 seconds each: 18mm edge bw+29.9kg, small 2 finger pocket +2.3 kg, roof pinches +4.5 kg.
T: core exercises
F: shoulder rehab
S: bouldering at Wrights Rock. Did Fingers Sit-start (7A+) which I had tried once last year- good problem. Tried various beta on Simple Simon (7B+) but can't do the crux at the moment. Then spent some time working Wright's Traverse (7B). Did all but one move with some good links. The one move remaining felt really hard but I was already tired when I first tried it, so hoping it'll feel easier when fresh. Also did some core exercises in the evening.
S: Core and shoulder rehab while watching the F1 (v early start), then a looonnng drive to Kent via Oxford. Big lunch out and cake...
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 6lbs. Of the 6 lb gain vs the week before, about 3 lb was real from Font and the rest from Ruth's birthday cakes on Sunday...I was very full when I weighed myself!
Having said that, I just ate a load more cake for Ruth's granddad's 90th. Family birthdays are non-complimentary to dieting for climbing!
Not a bad week considering the lurgy, hope to get back on Wright's on Friday morning possibly. Away from home until Tuesday evening.
Si
Post edited at 19:05
1
In reply to JayK:
Cheers Jimmy, yep I'll post when I'm keen for Arch Enemies, I think Tony B was keen too.
I might get a session bouldering on Snowdonia at some point over Easter - is there anywhere/thing you'd particularly recommend at 7A/+ round llanberis or ogwen?
Si
Cheers Jimmy, yep I'll post when I'm keen for Arch Enemies, I think Tony B was keen too.
I might get a session bouldering on Snowdonia at some point over Easter - is there anywhere/thing you'd particularly recommend at 7A/+ round llanberis or ogwen?
Si
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers mate!
A really good week this week. Hit my weight target, walked in the Peak, enjoyed a bouldering session and rode some amazing bikes on some dry dusty trails. All-in-all it's been the best week this year so far. Chuffed. Foot about 90%. Time to get racing and back on a rope.
Mon: Resting foot after Lakes trip
Tue: Osteopath (PM)
Wed: Resting foot after Osteopath session
Thu: Climbing! Took the dog for a walk around Churnet and took my bouldering mat. Had a fantastic time feeling weak but climbing some old favourites. Honestly no idea how I used to get up some of these steep problems but I'm keen to get back to that level of strength again. Foot was a bit painful on the smaller holds and I tweaked my shoulder a bit but otherwise really good progress. So happy!
Fri: Rest & icing foot
Sat: 2.5hr walk around Stanage with the dog. Eying up some potential routes for the year.
Sun: MTB demo day at Cannock Chase. I've done this for the last 3 years and it's always such a fun day demoing some really nice XC race bikes. Rode 4 bikes today; Trek Top Fuel 9.8, Cannondale FSi, Focus Raven Max Team, Whyte T-129 S, then the Top Fuel again (pics on my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stevenmarkperry). In all honesty I'm a Trek fan-boy (used to work in a Trek dealership as a grease monkey) so it's no surprise that the Top Fuel is the best bike of the day but the others were all really good bikes too with the Whyte being the underdog and the Focus being the ugly but fast eye-opener. I might have to swap my Superfly hardtail for a Top Fuel this year. Ouch! Foot held up well so I'm going to enter the next race in the Mids XC series which is April 9.
Current weight: 143.8 lbs.
STGs (during foot rehab):
Weight to 140 by end March (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 27 Mar / 140: 31 Mar)
Bike on trail (TICK!)
Climb something... anything! (TICK!)
Beastmaker Beasty 6Cish x2 per week -- 0/2
Other strength training x2 per week -- 0/2
STGs (after foot rehab):
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Lead a Severe
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b)
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
Cheers mate!
A really good week this week. Hit my weight target, walked in the Peak, enjoyed a bouldering session and rode some amazing bikes on some dry dusty trails. All-in-all it's been the best week this year so far. Chuffed. Foot about 90%. Time to get racing and back on a rope.
Mon: Resting foot after Lakes trip
Tue: Osteopath (PM)
Wed: Resting foot after Osteopath session
Thu: Climbing! Took the dog for a walk around Churnet and took my bouldering mat. Had a fantastic time feeling weak but climbing some old favourites. Honestly no idea how I used to get up some of these steep problems but I'm keen to get back to that level of strength again. Foot was a bit painful on the smaller holds and I tweaked my shoulder a bit but otherwise really good progress. So happy!
Fri: Rest & icing foot
Sat: 2.5hr walk around Stanage with the dog. Eying up some potential routes for the year.
Sun: MTB demo day at Cannock Chase. I've done this for the last 3 years and it's always such a fun day demoing some really nice XC race bikes. Rode 4 bikes today; Trek Top Fuel 9.8, Cannondale FSi, Focus Raven Max Team, Whyte T-129 S, then the Top Fuel again (pics on my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stevenmarkperry). In all honesty I'm a Trek fan-boy (used to work in a Trek dealership as a grease monkey) so it's no surprise that the Top Fuel is the best bike of the day but the others were all really good bikes too with the Whyte being the underdog and the Focus being the ugly but fast eye-opener. I might have to swap my Superfly hardtail for a Top Fuel this year. Ouch! Foot held up well so I'm going to enter the next race in the Mids XC series which is April 9.
Current weight: 143.8 lbs.
STGs (during foot rehab):
Weight to 140 by end March (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 27 Mar / 140: 31 Mar)
Bike on trail (TICK!)
Climb something... anything! (TICK!)
Beastmaker Beasty 6Cish x2 per week -- 0/2
Other strength training x2 per week -- 0/2
STGs (after foot rehab):
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Lead a Severe
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b)
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex. They're mostly just the benchmarks from Training for the New Alpinism. I might add a couple of climbing specific ones - 1 arm ice axe hangs etc. Be a good test of my shoulder rehab also.
Decent week, but a bit inconsistent, resulting in too much pushed into the weekend. Also have an 'aerobic debt', as will have to push some of this week's work onto Monday.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up
1 circuits of
8 Pullups
Box step (30kg) 5 each leg
6 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
15 pressups
6 Leg Raise
Thu - Bouldering at Roaches Upper Tier. About 10 problems from the Roxkfax Guide's Green and Yellow circuits. Beautiful day and in relative solitude, but problems are unfortunately very polished.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Trail Run - 11.24km/435m
Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up
1 circuits of
8 Pullups
Box step (35kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
10 Overhead squat (35kg)
10 raised leg pressup
6 Leg Raise
Turkish get up 4kg
Sun - AW Sheffield. Completed the route I failed last week, and two more 6A+ onsights for the pyramid. Two harder 6A+ routes to work on next week.
Trail Run - 6.09km/209m
STG
Last weeks goals -
Climb Pete Whittaker's 6a (Line 76, Yellow) at AW Sheffield.
Done!
do 4 hours trail running, including 25 minutes in Z2.
2 hours in Z1, 25 minutes in Z2. Try and make up Z1 time on Monday morning.
Next week's goals -
* Complete the 6A+ routes I didn't finish today or do 4 trad routes at VS or above ( depending on weather ).
* Do 4 hours aerobic training (Z1, including 25mins Z2)
* Add a circuit to strength and conditioning sessions
* Add one more core session to the week. Probably post-climb.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> Planetmarshall: good investment of time with the benchmark test, I might steal that idea!
Cheers Alex. They're mostly just the benchmarks from Training for the New Alpinism. I might add a couple of climbing specific ones - 1 arm ice axe hangs etc. Be a good test of my shoulder rehab also.
Decent week, but a bit inconsistent, resulting in too much pushed into the weekend. Also have an 'aerobic debt', as will have to push some of this week's work onto Monday.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up
1 circuits of
8 Pullups
Box step (30kg) 5 each leg
6 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
15 pressups
6 Leg Raise
Thu - Bouldering at Roaches Upper Tier. About 10 problems from the Roxkfax Guide's Green and Yellow circuits. Beautiful day and in relative solitude, but problems are unfortunately very polished.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Trail Run - 11.24km/435m
Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up
1 circuits of
8 Pullups
Box step (35kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
10 Overhead squat (35kg)
10 raised leg pressup
6 Leg Raise
Turkish get up 4kg
Sun - AW Sheffield. Completed the route I failed last week, and two more 6A+ onsights for the pyramid. Two harder 6A+ routes to work on next week.
Trail Run - 6.09km/209m
STG
Last weeks goals -
Climb Pete Whittaker's 6a (Line 76, Yellow) at AW Sheffield.
Done!
do 4 hours trail running, including 25 minutes in Z2.
2 hours in Z1, 25 minutes in Z2. Try and make up Z1 time on Monday morning.
Next week's goals -
* Complete the 6A+ routes I didn't finish today or do 4 trad routes at VS or above ( depending on weather ).
* Do 4 hours aerobic training (Z1, including 25mins Z2)
* Add a circuit to strength and conditioning sessions
* Add one more core session to the week. Probably post-climb.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex.
A good week.
Parisella's handed my butt to me on a plate, but was awesome. I'll be back. Super psyched, super strong wad was very helpful with beta (including lapping rock atrocity, without mats, whilst chatting the beta all the way through). Too strong. I liked the look of Parisella's original but couldn't commit to the move with the heel toe cam. Just not used to that sort of stuff and it freaked me out a bit. Shame as strength/fitness wise it felt fine. Tried left wall traverse too. Too many moves for me to remember in one go. I'd need to have it nailed to give it a proper go, but got all the moves and some decent links done.
Other than that had two good aero pow sessions. Come away from foc after chat with coach John. First session did the recommended 3 x 4 reps of 6b+ with 15 sec rest between reps. Felt like I could have done more but wasn't sure what to tweak - difficulty, intensity or rest. Tonight I did 4 sets with 10 sec rest so other things need tweaking.
I've learnt a lot during the last 3 mths and after the Chulilla trip I feel well placed to really crack on. No more guessing what An Cap/Aero pow etc should feel like and what forms a workout for them. I'm really glad I carried on as best I could during the ancap phase when life was just getting so busy I couldn't see the point. Things change and if plans come off i'll have much more free time sooner than I thought.
2 weeks left before chulilla. I'm going to try for 3 well spaced aero pow sessions next week and then 2 the week after as a bit of a taper. I'm expecting 7a on-sighting, will be happy with 7a+ and chuffed to bits with 7b. Lets see what happens.
Weight wise this high fat/low carb thing really works for me. It's not ketosis (nowhere near) so no feeling crap and no worry about every food that goes in your mouth. Had a bit of a weekend off and didn't lose anymore weight - but didn't put any on either. So far lost 4lbs and 2% body fat, whilst eating cheese, bacon and cream. 6 pack for Summer
Still using my scales as a benchmark but got on some proper hi tech ones at my physio appt (which reduced my legs to jelly) and they said 13.5%. I'd agree with that from what the mirror tells me.
Cheers Alex.
A good week.
Parisella's handed my butt to me on a plate, but was awesome. I'll be back. Super psyched, super strong wad was very helpful with beta (including lapping rock atrocity, without mats, whilst chatting the beta all the way through). Too strong. I liked the look of Parisella's original but couldn't commit to the move with the heel toe cam. Just not used to that sort of stuff and it freaked me out a bit. Shame as strength/fitness wise it felt fine. Tried left wall traverse too. Too many moves for me to remember in one go. I'd need to have it nailed to give it a proper go, but got all the moves and some decent links done.
Other than that had two good aero pow sessions. Come away from foc after chat with coach John. First session did the recommended 3 x 4 reps of 6b+ with 15 sec rest between reps. Felt like I could have done more but wasn't sure what to tweak - difficulty, intensity or rest. Tonight I did 4 sets with 10 sec rest so other things need tweaking.
I've learnt a lot during the last 3 mths and after the Chulilla trip I feel well placed to really crack on. No more guessing what An Cap/Aero pow etc should feel like and what forms a workout for them. I'm really glad I carried on as best I could during the ancap phase when life was just getting so busy I couldn't see the point. Things change and if plans come off i'll have much more free time sooner than I thought.
2 weeks left before chulilla. I'm going to try for 3 well spaced aero pow sessions next week and then 2 the week after as a bit of a taper. I'm expecting 7a on-sighting, will be happy with 7a+ and chuffed to bits with 7b. Lets see what happens.
Weight wise this high fat/low carb thing really works for me. It's not ketosis (nowhere near) so no feeling crap and no worry about every food that goes in your mouth. Had a bit of a weekend off and didn't lose anymore weight - but didn't put any on either. So far lost 4lbs and 2% body fat, whilst eating cheese, bacon and cream. 6 pack for Summer
Still using my scales as a benchmark but got on some proper hi tech ones at my physio appt (which reduced my legs to jelly) and they said 13.5%. I'd agree with that from what the mirror tells me.
Post edited at 19:28
1
In reply to Si dH:
Elephanitus 7A - Worth the drive and then the walk.
Caseg Groove is ace at 6C, but I found the boulder pretty tough to find on my first visit. You also have to drive into and park in Bethesda....
Ogwen Area:
Raging Bull 7A - (Pretty ace line and gives you that sense of being up in the mountains, but a walk in and needs a few pads. Plus the boulder field is a nightmare to walk across if it's even remotely damp.)
Harvey Oswald 7A - (Just off the side of the road - It might look crap because it's in a pit, but it's actually really good. The last move feels committing if you don't have a spot for the top.)
Kingdom of Rain 7A - (The next 3 are all at Sheep Pen which, if you've never been to this area, is probably your best bet. Be prepared for a pretty intense plod uphill)
Links into Dog Shooter 6B-7C
The Pinch 7A - (Take your camera, you'll want a photo of this one.)
Boneyard 7B - Is worth a go if you fancy something slightly harder. Plenty of videos online for beta and right next to the car. Good warm ups.
The Pass:
King of Drunks 7A - The climb to do at the grade in the pass. Classy.
The Witch 7A+ - Looks a bit crap and probably is, but it's in an amazing setting and on the same block as Boysen's Groove which is ace! It's a crimpy traverse which is harder than it looks!
The Minimum 7A+ - 2 mover. Try not to barrel role down the hill.
Here's Lance and Louise doing a couple: vimeo.com/15689384
Elephanitus 7A - Worth the drive and then the walk.
Caseg Groove is ace at 6C, but I found the boulder pretty tough to find on my first visit. You also have to drive into and park in Bethesda....
Ogwen Area:
Raging Bull 7A - (Pretty ace line and gives you that sense of being up in the mountains, but a walk in and needs a few pads. Plus the boulder field is a nightmare to walk across if it's even remotely damp.)
Harvey Oswald 7A - (Just off the side of the road - It might look crap because it's in a pit, but it's actually really good. The last move feels committing if you don't have a spot for the top.)
Kingdom of Rain 7A - (The next 3 are all at Sheep Pen which, if you've never been to this area, is probably your best bet. Be prepared for a pretty intense plod uphill)
Links into Dog Shooter 6B-7C
The Pinch 7A - (Take your camera, you'll want a photo of this one.)
Boneyard 7B - Is worth a go if you fancy something slightly harder. Plenty of videos online for beta and right next to the car. Good warm ups.
The Pass:
King of Drunks 7A - The climb to do at the grade in the pass. Classy.
The Witch 7A+ - Looks a bit crap and probably is, but it's in an amazing setting and on the same block as Boysen's Groove which is ace! It's a crimpy traverse which is harder than it looks!
The Minimum 7A+ - 2 mover. Try not to barrel role down the hill.
Here's Lance and Louise doing a couple: vimeo.com/15689384
Post edited at 19:51
2
In reply to alexm198:
Still just about hanging in there with fit club - last week was another non-training week with it being end of term. This week I've been back home which has been better.
Mon - rest
Tue - session on the wall at home doing laps for some last minute pre-spain fitness
Wed - rest
Thurs - lovely day at malham, I was climbing without a top and was still too warm! Warmed up onsighting Rose Coronary (7a), then greased off the finishing holds of Against the Grain (7a+) - they were dusty and disappointing. Next had a play on raindogs for the first time, found it okay but a bit too P.E for me realistically at this point - linking it in three sections was fairly straightforward but linking those would have been too much. Was quite cool to have Caff working Rainshadow above me whilst I was on raindogs though - good bit of inspiration. Finished off flashing Puddle Jumper (7a+).
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Nice afternoon at Chee For, warmed up following Nostradamus (E1 5b) then onsighted Rave On (E3 5c) and Splintered Perspex (E3 6a). Felt good to be putting gear in again but the transition from indoor bouldering wasn't an easy one!
Off to Spain tomorrow, hopefully hitting up Terradets and Riglos. Not expecting huge things because I'm not very fit but hopefully I'll be able to work around that.
Cheers, Jake.
Still just about hanging in there with fit club - last week was another non-training week with it being end of term. This week I've been back home which has been better.
Mon - rest
Tue - session on the wall at home doing laps for some last minute pre-spain fitness
Wed - rest
Thurs - lovely day at malham, I was climbing without a top and was still too warm! Warmed up onsighting Rose Coronary (7a), then greased off the finishing holds of Against the Grain (7a+) - they were dusty and disappointing. Next had a play on raindogs for the first time, found it okay but a bit too P.E for me realistically at this point - linking it in three sections was fairly straightforward but linking those would have been too much. Was quite cool to have Caff working Rainshadow above me whilst I was on raindogs though - good bit of inspiration. Finished off flashing Puddle Jumper (7a+).
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Nice afternoon at Chee For, warmed up following Nostradamus (E1 5b) then onsighted Rave On (E3 5c) and Splintered Perspex (E3 6a). Felt good to be putting gear in again but the transition from indoor bouldering wasn't an easy one!
Off to Spain tomorrow, hopefully hitting up Terradets and Riglos. Not expecting huge things because I'm not very fit but hopefully I'll be able to work around that.
Cheers, Jake.
Post edited at 21:12
1
In reply to alexm198:
thanks Alex!
Rehab week 3 (periodised training on pause) another frustrating week. I'm convinced its actually been shoulder impingement rather than original diagnosis of bicep strain. A week of rest i.e. NO shoulder related work at all - which means NO climbing, hangboarding, press-up's, dip's, pull-ups, side planks…its frustrating feeling the gains of the prior months slip away, but on a positive note the past week seems to have seen progress, with no pain during the night, morning, or early afternoon, seems to come on late afternoon maybe all that sitting around…went very light bouldering on Sunday to reward myself for sticking to instructions and seem to have come through without inflation or reaction. Will try to continue being very careful for another week, and if no reaction start to climb bit harder. No reptitative training loads tho, my big trip starts in four weeks and proper rehab is the main goal to avoid reoccurrence.
M: Shoulder strengthening routines (theraband) plus 200 sit-ups, 200 squats, 50 chest raises, 75 leg raises, 2min front plank, plus forearm pronation and Supination preventative routine.
T: same at Monday
W: same at Monday
Th: same at Monday
F: same at Monday
S: same at Monday
Su: light boulder session (max V2) ~2 hours
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury, properly
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - on pause
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - on pause
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! She is doing well now, climbing twice per week bouldering and leading, back to building fitness.
MTG:
- lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016 (orpierre, ceuse, buox, siruana, lleida, costa blanca, el chorro)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april t-1month!!
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)
thanks Alex!
> Robin Brooke: Any improvement on the injury this week? I know the frustration!
Rehab week 3 (periodised training on pause) another frustrating week. I'm convinced its actually been shoulder impingement rather than original diagnosis of bicep strain. A week of rest i.e. NO shoulder related work at all - which means NO climbing, hangboarding, press-up's, dip's, pull-ups, side planks…its frustrating feeling the gains of the prior months slip away, but on a positive note the past week seems to have seen progress, with no pain during the night, morning, or early afternoon, seems to come on late afternoon maybe all that sitting around…went very light bouldering on Sunday to reward myself for sticking to instructions and seem to have come through without inflation or reaction. Will try to continue being very careful for another week, and if no reaction start to climb bit harder. No reptitative training loads tho, my big trip starts in four weeks and proper rehab is the main goal to avoid reoccurrence.
M: Shoulder strengthening routines (theraband) plus 200 sit-ups, 200 squats, 50 chest raises, 75 leg raises, 2min front plank, plus forearm pronation and Supination preventative routine.
T: same at Monday
W: same at Monday
Th: same at Monday
F: same at Monday
S: same at Monday
Su: light boulder session (max V2) ~2 hours
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury, properly
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - on pause
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - on pause
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! She is doing well now, climbing twice per week bouldering and leading, back to building fitness.
MTG:
- lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016 (orpierre, ceuse, buox, siruana, lleida, costa blanca, el chorro)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april t-1month!!
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers for starting the thread... Diet has been a little less jelly-sweet based this week.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Ancap followed by a decent boulder.
Wedns: Fingerboard.
Thurs: Wall. Ancap, short boulder, boring aerocap.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Malham. 3 goes on Tremelo. Felt impossible first time up but managed quite reasonable sized chunks on my last go. Keen to get back soon.
Sun: Caley. Fell off low grade slabs mostly. Nice day
Cheers for starting the thread... Diet has been a little less jelly-sweet based this week.
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Ancap followed by a decent boulder.
Wedns: Fingerboard.
Thurs: Wall. Ancap, short boulder, boring aerocap.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Malham. 3 goes on Tremelo. Felt impossible first time up but managed quite reasonable sized chunks on my last go. Keen to get back soon.
Sun: Caley. Fell off low grade slabs mostly. Nice day
1
In reply to alexm198:
Back after a few weeks absence, in which time I've just about managed to get to the wall regularly but had a lot of other stuff to do (and still), third of the way through various projects, now living back in Manchester (just as the Craig y Longridge scene is kicking off) for a bit so have bought a pass for the Depot (just as Malham dries out), I expect to be here for at least the summer.
M: Depot, probably circuits
T: Rest
W: first day at Malham, got on GBH against my better judgement but linked from below crux to move to ear, I reckon I could have done it but had skipped a clip so chickened out/wanted to test the fall.
T: Went to my first yoga class, thoroughly unenjoyable but went better than my only other attempt at yoga where I got into an argument with a pensioner over a mat. The stuff we did was exactly what I need so enthused to go again. Does anyone know if there is any benefit in going only once a week or are you back to square one after 6 days? Went to Depot after to do 10mins on, 10 mins off x3.
F: Rest
S: Malham decided not to get on GBH in favour of shorter term goal - MO. Not that much easier as it turns out, bottom was dry but still not sussed a sequence, more PE than I hoped. Due to one thing and another only had 2x goes.
S: depot, tried the new circuits, did the 7as but the 7a+ has a ridiculous move that spoils it, the 7b is very hard but at least doable
Back after a few weeks absence, in which time I've just about managed to get to the wall regularly but had a lot of other stuff to do (and still), third of the way through various projects, now living back in Manchester (just as the Craig y Longridge scene is kicking off) for a bit so have bought a pass for the Depot (just as Malham dries out), I expect to be here for at least the summer.
M: Depot, probably circuits
T: Rest
W: first day at Malham, got on GBH against my better judgement but linked from below crux to move to ear, I reckon I could have done it but had skipped a clip so chickened out/wanted to test the fall.
T: Went to my first yoga class, thoroughly unenjoyable but went better than my only other attempt at yoga where I got into an argument with a pensioner over a mat. The stuff we did was exactly what I need so enthused to go again. Does anyone know if there is any benefit in going only once a week or are you back to square one after 6 days? Went to Depot after to do 10mins on, 10 mins off x3.
F: Rest
S: Malham decided not to get on GBH in favour of shorter term goal - MO. Not that much easier as it turns out, bottom was dry but still not sussed a sequence, more PE than I hoped. Due to one thing and another only had 2x goes.
S: depot, tried the new circuits, did the 7as but the 7a+ has a ridiculous move that spoils it, the 7b is very hard but at least doable
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. Won't be back at Ansteys for a week or two but have been extensively replaying the sequences in my head. Quite a productive week in the real world too.
M - Cycle commute. Tom R core session x 1 plus various other exercises
T - Cycle commute. UCR in evening, 6b 6b / 6b+ 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a+ 6b / 7b+ 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6a 6a. I wa so close to lapping the 7a. The 7a+ is right up my street with little positive crimps. Didn't get it as I got a couple of body positions wrong but hope it will go. Had to then resort to 3s as the place was getting so busy that it was a case of find a line and stick to it. Pleased that on that final triple the 6a still felt so easy.
W - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR. 6b 6b 6c 7a (flash) circuits then ancap. Found the woody 7b circuit (which is way harder than 7b!) was good for this. I sorted the first 15 moves of it after a few tries then did 15 moves, 2 min rest x4, then 10 mins rest, repeat whole shabang x3. A small amoint of v easy travering to warm down - fingers virtually not functioning by then.
T - cycle commute.
F - UCR, pretty much a repeat of Weds but on the next 15 moves of the circuit, which are even harder. Had to substitute a hold to remove a cruxey move. Shorter rests too - 5 mins not 10. Then 8min on 8min off x3 on easy stuff, although UCR hasn't got a 6a circuit at the mo - final set I resorted to the kiddies ABC circuit!
S - drive to holiday
S - 4 mile woodland walk. In evening pressups, S&C exercises, pull-ups, Tom R core x1 using kiddies climbing frame.
This week is a family non-climbing holiday (?!) but hope to get a couple of indoor more recreational sessions in. Wondered if anyone in the Fitclub Massive been to The XC - is it any good? Or should we stick to Big Rock MK?
Thanks Alex. Won't be back at Ansteys for a week or two but have been extensively replaying the sequences in my head. Quite a productive week in the real world too.
M - Cycle commute. Tom R core session x 1 plus various other exercises
T - Cycle commute. UCR in evening, 6b 6b / 6b+ 6b+ / 7a 7a / 7a+ 6b / 7b+ 6b+ 6b+ / 6c 6a 6a. I wa so close to lapping the 7a. The 7a+ is right up my street with little positive crimps. Didn't get it as I got a couple of body positions wrong but hope it will go. Had to then resort to 3s as the place was getting so busy that it was a case of find a line and stick to it. Pleased that on that final triple the 6a still felt so easy.
W - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR. 6b 6b 6c 7a (flash) circuits then ancap. Found the woody 7b circuit (which is way harder than 7b!) was good for this. I sorted the first 15 moves of it after a few tries then did 15 moves, 2 min rest x4, then 10 mins rest, repeat whole shabang x3. A small amoint of v easy travering to warm down - fingers virtually not functioning by then.
T - cycle commute.
F - UCR, pretty much a repeat of Weds but on the next 15 moves of the circuit, which are even harder. Had to substitute a hold to remove a cruxey move. Shorter rests too - 5 mins not 10. Then 8min on 8min off x3 on easy stuff, although UCR hasn't got a 6a circuit at the mo - final set I resorted to the kiddies ABC circuit!
S - drive to holiday
S - 4 mile woodland walk. In evening pressups, S&C exercises, pull-ups, Tom R core x1 using kiddies climbing frame.
This week is a family non-climbing holiday (?!) but hope to get a couple of indoor more recreational sessions in. Wondered if anyone in the Fitclub Massive been to The XC - is it any good? Or should we stick to Big Rock MK?
1
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Don't worry too much about losing your gains, they'll return a lot faster than it took to get them first time round.
What positions and exercises hurt your shoulder the most? Have you seen a climbing specialist physio or just a general one?
Don't worry too much about losing your gains, they'll return a lot faster than it took to get them first time round.
What positions and exercises hurt your shoulder the most? Have you seen a climbing specialist physio or just a general one?
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for compiling the stats.
But they said I would be fine! I'm on the mend, but not yet right.
m - dying. Went to the Dr and he reckons my lurgy is actually 60% lurgy & 40% asthma need to use my inhaler more
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - St Patrick's day shenanigans
f - Hang over
s - Post Hill challenge a 5k run up a very steep hill that I've not run up since 1982!
s - 11km walk
Weight 82kg Body fat 20%
My immediate goal is to get fit to do the Baildon Boundary way in a couple of weeks time. I don't car about my time for that, but I'm desperate to meet the cut off times for the Three Peaks Race at the end of April.
In the slightly longer term I want to get my weight down and be fitter for a trip to Peru in June.
> Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Thanks for compiling the stats.
> Hokkyokusei: ah yes, licking the walls – never a good idea. Feeling better this week?
But they said I would be fine! I'm on the mend, but not yet right.
m - dying. Went to the Dr and he reckons my lurgy is actually 60% lurgy & 40% asthma need to use my inhaler more
t - nothing
w - nothing
t - St Patrick's day shenanigans
f - Hang over
s - Post Hill challenge a 5k run up a very steep hill that I've not run up since 1982!
s - 11km walk
Weight 82kg Body fat 20%
My immediate goal is to get fit to do the Baildon Boundary way in a couple of weeks time. I don't car about my time for that, but I'm desperate to meet the cut off times for the Three Peaks Race at the end of April.
In the slightly longer term I want to get my weight down and be fitter for a trip to Peru in June.
In reply to Si dH:
For consistency, I always get weighed first thing in the morning, after having a sh!t
> Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 6lbs. Of the 6 lb gain vs the week before, about 3 lb was real from Font and the rest from Ruth's birthday cakes on Sunday...I was very full when I weighed myself!
For consistency, I always get weighed first thing in the morning, after having a sh!t
In reply to planetmarshall:
They are unfortunately and this puts me off climbing there. It's a lovely location but I don't enjoy climbing on polished rock.
> Thu - Bouldering at Roaches Upper Tier. About 10 problems from the Roxkfax Guide's Green and Yellow circuits. Beautiful day and in relative solitude, but problems are unfortunately very polished.
They are unfortunately and this puts me off climbing there. It's a lovely location but I don't enjoy climbing on polished rock.
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex, lurgy has mostly passed, just a bucket load of snot left, but I did hit the 3 sessions!
M: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; double session, all antagonist stuff felt hard as nails, I'm hoping its a hangover from the lurgy.
T: Indoor routes; the new route we thought was 7a+ has been given 7a, I may be out of shape but still think its a stiff grade! 12 routes up to 7a+ trying out the new set
W: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; Another double session, handstands are developing but still only 2 10 seconds free handstands this week.
T: Indoor routes; duplicate of Tuesdays session, I'm trying to break in my futuras before Spain so mostly paced the session on levels of toe agony. I'm fast coming to the conclusion that high end shoes are a complete waste of time and only suitable for masochists and lumpy toe fetishists, all my hardest sends have been in comfy katanas or miuras, yet I persist in purchasing the latest greatest super shoe, only to go back to the miuras after a short period of self inflicted toe torture. If they are good enough for Ondra...
F: DIY; bit of root digging, arguably the hardest session of the week, 90 minutes of hacking ineffectually at a mass of bay roots turned me into a hot mess in no time at all. Definite fat burner!
S: Indoor boulder; persisting with the futuras and I'm sure I actually performed worse on routes that I did last week due to painful toes! Decent enough session, playing on V4-6 and putting in some good effort with no worrying elbow issues.
S: DIY; helped my dad fit a new fence and gate, pretty light stuff
I feel like the whole week was a bit of a recovery from the lingering lurgy, but still pleased to get a bunch of decent sessions in. Next week is the last one before Spain so I'll chill out and take things steady. Going to Boulder Central on Tuesday so I'll have to make sure I don't get too overexcited, I really like it there.
Last weeks STG:
Ensure Lurgy is safely eradicated - TICK
Keep stretching, achieve another four 5 second toe-grabs - TICK, definite progress
3 climbing sessions - TICK
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 9/10
New STG:
Stay calm this week, 1 climbing session, 2 antag/cardio
Keep stretching, more toe touches
Get that last 10 second handstand
MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef and tick 10 '7' graded climbs while there. (seems fair)
Try to do some route setting at Calshot somehow - No Progress
> Dandan: I’m also lurgified this week so I share your pain! Good job fitting in a couple of sessions anyway, and I’m sure the rest will have positive effects in the long run. Manage to get those 3 sessions in this week?
Cheers Alex, lurgy has mostly passed, just a bucket load of snot left, but I did hit the 3 sessions!
M: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; double session, all antagonist stuff felt hard as nails, I'm hoping its a hangover from the lurgy.
T: Indoor routes; the new route we thought was 7a+ has been given 7a, I may be out of shape but still think its a stiff grade! 12 routes up to 7a+ trying out the new set
W: Cardio circuit and bodyweight antagonists; Another double session, handstands are developing but still only 2 10 seconds free handstands this week.
T: Indoor routes; duplicate of Tuesdays session, I'm trying to break in my futuras before Spain so mostly paced the session on levels of toe agony. I'm fast coming to the conclusion that high end shoes are a complete waste of time and only suitable for masochists and lumpy toe fetishists, all my hardest sends have been in comfy katanas or miuras, yet I persist in purchasing the latest greatest super shoe, only to go back to the miuras after a short period of self inflicted toe torture. If they are good enough for Ondra...
F: DIY; bit of root digging, arguably the hardest session of the week, 90 minutes of hacking ineffectually at a mass of bay roots turned me into a hot mess in no time at all. Definite fat burner!
S: Indoor boulder; persisting with the futuras and I'm sure I actually performed worse on routes that I did last week due to painful toes! Decent enough session, playing on V4-6 and putting in some good effort with no worrying elbow issues.
S: DIY; helped my dad fit a new fence and gate, pretty light stuff
I feel like the whole week was a bit of a recovery from the lingering lurgy, but still pleased to get a bunch of decent sessions in. Next week is the last one before Spain so I'll chill out and take things steady. Going to Boulder Central on Tuesday so I'll have to make sure I don't get too overexcited, I really like it there.
Last weeks STG:
Ensure Lurgy is safely eradicated - TICK
Keep stretching, achieve another four 5 second toe-grabs - TICK, definite progress
3 climbing sessions - TICK
Freestanding handstand 10x10 seconds - currently 9/10
New STG:
Stay calm this week, 1 climbing session, 2 antag/cardio
Keep stretching, more toe touches
Get that last 10 second handstand
MTG:
Stay healthy for Margalef and tick 10 '7' graded climbs while there. (seems fair)
Try to do some route setting at Calshot somehow - No Progress
1
In reply to hokkyokusei:
I weigh myself most mornings and evenings, variability week to week is the same whatever time I use. Sunday night generally works pretty well.
I weigh myself most mornings and evenings, variability week to week is the same whatever time I use. Sunday night generally works pretty well.
1
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks Si! Love positive thinking!
Saw an Osteo first (Climber) then a Physio second (general). Surprisingly I bought into the Physio more...who believes its a shoulder impingement from overuse (albeit not chronic), and gave me progressive plan to strengthen back muscles to build balance / stabilisation. Injury occurred during swimming session, but was during week 8 of training plan with reasonably high volume (for me) work on shoulder (i.e. finger board, strength & conditioning, and swimming). Pain was in a number of areas including Front point of shoulder, Back of shoulder along Traps and Calvicle, and occasionally in the bicep toward elbow. It was not acute pain, but enough that doing any shoulder work felt like the wrong thing to do. Specific shoulder movement which felt worse was raising the arm in front of me, and gaston type position, and press-up position. Also did flare up when seemingly doing very little, or after long walk. After the first week of pretend resting, I got a bit more disciplined i.e. not shoulder work at all, used ice and ibuprofen to reduce inflammation consistently, did the theraband shoulder work couple of time each day. Two weeks of this seems to have improved the condition. I still feel it but now very mild, and confidence is increasing in its use (not so conscious of it). But I'm going to try and resist jumping back in for another week. Any opinions/ advice most welcome.
> Don't worry too much about losing your gains, they'll return a lot faster than it took to get them first time round.
> What positions and exercises hurt your shoulder the most? Have you seen a climbing specialist physio or just a general one?
Thanks Si! Love positive thinking!
Saw an Osteo first (Climber) then a Physio second (general). Surprisingly I bought into the Physio more...who believes its a shoulder impingement from overuse (albeit not chronic), and gave me progressive plan to strengthen back muscles to build balance / stabilisation. Injury occurred during swimming session, but was during week 8 of training plan with reasonably high volume (for me) work on shoulder (i.e. finger board, strength & conditioning, and swimming). Pain was in a number of areas including Front point of shoulder, Back of shoulder along Traps and Calvicle, and occasionally in the bicep toward elbow. It was not acute pain, but enough that doing any shoulder work felt like the wrong thing to do. Specific shoulder movement which felt worse was raising the arm in front of me, and gaston type position, and press-up position. Also did flare up when seemingly doing very little, or after long walk. After the first week of pretend resting, I got a bit more disciplined i.e. not shoulder work at all, used ice and ibuprofen to reduce inflammation consistently, did the theraband shoulder work couple of time each day. Two weeks of this seems to have improved the condition. I still feel it but now very mild, and confidence is increasing in its use (not so conscious of it). But I'm going to try and resist jumping back in for another week. Any opinions/ advice most welcome.
1
In reply to robbiebrookie:
In many ways that sounds similar to the problem I've got but perhaps a bit more severe - I don't have the pain at the back of the shoulder, just the front where the bicep tendon comes in, and not from just resting /walking. Otherwise similar though and sounds like the same diagnosis.
The most painful thing for mine is actually pressups, but pulling down with arms wide, or gastoning, is also bad. My physio (whose daughter is on the gb climbing team) did actually say that continued use was fine as long as I stopped when I felt pain, which may be useful advice. For me this has meant that I've been able to keep fingerboarding, and bouldering outside on specific problems, as it doesn't hurt to pull with my hands at shoulder width or narrower, or to just pull inwards (ie on sidepulls). Doing max hang sessions doesn't seem to have hampered the recovery so far, it's definitely improving slowly (I'm about 8 weeks in.)
Good luck!
Edit: other thing I've done after reading it was very important somewhere online, was not to try any training soon after a full rehab session - as this temporarily weakens the shoulder muscles before they recover and grow. So, at least 1-2 days rest after a rehab session before doing any fingerboard or climbing.
> Thanks Si! Love positive thinking!
> Saw an Osteo first (Climber) then a Physio second (general). Surprisingly I bought into the Physio more...who believes its a shoulder impingement from overuse (albeit not chronic), and gave me progressive plan to strengthen back muscles to build balance / stabilisation. Injury occurred during swimming session, but was during week 8 of training plan with reasonably high volume (for me) work on shoulder (i.e. finger board, strength & conditioning, and swimming). Pain was in a number of areas including Front point of shoulder, Back of shoulder along Traps and Calvicle, and occasionally in the bicep toward elbow. It was not acute pain, but enough that doing any shoulder work felt like the wrong thing to do. Specific shoulder movement which felt worse was raising the arm in front of me, and gaston type position, and press-up position. Also did flare up when seemingly doing very little, or after long walk. After the first week of pretend resting, I got a bit more disciplined i.e. not shoulder work at all, used ice and ibuprofen to reduce inflammation consistently, did the theraband shoulder work couple of time each day. Two weeks of this seems to have improved the condition. I still feel it but now very mild, and confidence is increasing in its use (not so conscious of it). But I'm going to try and resist jumping back in for another week. Any opinions/ advice most welcome.
In many ways that sounds similar to the problem I've got but perhaps a bit more severe - I don't have the pain at the back of the shoulder, just the front where the bicep tendon comes in, and not from just resting /walking. Otherwise similar though and sounds like the same diagnosis.
The most painful thing for mine is actually pressups, but pulling down with arms wide, or gastoning, is also bad. My physio (whose daughter is on the gb climbing team) did actually say that continued use was fine as long as I stopped when I felt pain, which may be useful advice. For me this has meant that I've been able to keep fingerboarding, and bouldering outside on specific problems, as it doesn't hurt to pull with my hands at shoulder width or narrower, or to just pull inwards (ie on sidepulls). Doing max hang sessions doesn't seem to have hampered the recovery so far, it's definitely improving slowly (I'm about 8 weeks in.)
Good luck!
Edit: other thing I've done after reading it was very important somewhere online, was not to try any training soon after a full rehab session - as this temporarily weakens the shoulder muscles before they recover and grow. So, at least 1-2 days rest after a rehab session before doing any fingerboard or climbing.
Post edited at 13:33
1
In reply to alexm198:
I was in California, but didn't have time to do any climbing. My rest week has been a little more restful than I planned. I had one 3 hour walk around a hill with a radiotelescope and one boulder session that was more fun than training.
This week should be a hard training week and after the rest I'm keen to get stuck in.
> TonyB: how’s it going in the states? Where abouts are you?
I was in California, but didn't have time to do any climbing. My rest week has been a little more restful than I planned. I had one 3 hour walk around a hill with a radiotelescope and one boulder session that was more fun than training.
This week should be a hard training week and after the rest I'm keen to get stuck in.
In reply to alexm198:
Oh and I hereby retire from fitclub (not that I've been doing it for long). Initially, I'd planned to implement lots of the current knowledge on climbing related sports science to improving but now I've decided to sack that off, I'm just reporting the details of my week, which generally include me going climbing in a fairly unstructured way.
This isn't really of any use to anyone else as a guideline for what they can be doing to improve and isn't really helpful to me as it takes precious minutes of my day. Posting on here can be motivating in a way because you feel like you have to do something worthwhile or you'll get called out for being lazy and for that reason, it'll help the people who need encouragement in that way to get them training. I never need any motivation to 'just go climbing', which is what I plan to do from now on.
Best of luck to all you hardcore fitclubbers, I wish you the best for your future. x
Oh and I hereby retire from fitclub (not that I've been doing it for long). Initially, I'd planned to implement lots of the current knowledge on climbing related sports science to improving but now I've decided to sack that off, I'm just reporting the details of my week, which generally include me going climbing in a fairly unstructured way.
This isn't really of any use to anyone else as a guideline for what they can be doing to improve and isn't really helpful to me as it takes precious minutes of my day. Posting on here can be motivating in a way because you feel like you have to do something worthwhile or you'll get called out for being lazy and for that reason, it'll help the people who need encouragement in that way to get them training. I never need any motivation to 'just go climbing', which is what I plan to do from now on.
Best of luck to all you hardcore fitclubbers, I wish you the best for your future. x
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Andy. The Lakes were lakey.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 13lbs +3 gain
M - Indoor routes
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest (DIY club..)
S - Rest (DIY Club)
Did a fair bit of DIY over the weekend. Ate badly as per usual. Managed to get one routes session in. Finally getting round to sorting out the fence/wall at the bottom of the garden. It's not in great shape, so it all needs removing and then a new fence building. Fun of a kind, but not at all helpful for getting exercise done. So it's all hands on DIY club for the next few weeks. Also the Easter weekend (as its a Bank hol) means lots of rain.
Thanks Andy. The Lakes were lakey.
STG - Keep doing some climbing
Weight - 12st 13lbs +3 gain
M - Indoor routes
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest (DIY club..)
S - Rest (DIY Club)
Did a fair bit of DIY over the weekend. Ate badly as per usual. Managed to get one routes session in. Finally getting round to sorting out the fence/wall at the bottom of the garden. It's not in great shape, so it all needs removing and then a new fence building. Fun of a kind, but not at all helpful for getting exercise done. So it's all hands on DIY club for the next few weeks. Also the Easter weekend (as its a Bank hol) means lots of rain.
Post edited at 21:31
1
In reply to Tyler:
Didn't realise you were also at Malham on Saturday - will keep an eye out next time I'm up and introduce myself if you're around
Didn't realise you were also at Malham on Saturday - will keep an eye out next time I'm up and introduce myself if you're around
In reply to alexm198:
I suppose it improved, but far from ideal most days. Add to that the saga of getting home (we should have got back to Bristol yesterday. We didn't) and it wasn't quite the trip/holiday I'd hoped for.
M - Rain.
T - More rain. Climbed a few routes in the evening, including onsight of a nameless (and very good) 6c+ and a failed flash attempt at Draculín (7b)
W - Dry, but very cold. Went to Espadelles (S facing) but the sun didn't make an appearance. Had a few goes on Maligna (7c) but stripped it at the end of the day - conditions too unpredictable to commit to coming back to the same crag for a project.
T - Back to Espadelles, with some sun! But also a cold wind, quite pleasant when the sun was out but cold otherwise. Finished off Draculín (7b) after a lot of effort (about 4 goes today). Hard for the grade, I'd say, and very hard on the skin!
F - Rest day. Went for a hike: a more appropriate activity given the temperature!
S - Rain. Took Ally Smith's advice and headed to Raco de les Tenebres to have a go on La Corva de la Felicitat (7c) which stays dry. About 4 working goes.
S - A good day, warm and sunny! Did a good few routes at Cami de l'ermita including Flors i Violes (6b+) andErmiñaño (7a), both excellent! Went back to Tenebres for a couple of RP attempts on La Corva... but no send. Feels like it would have gone after a decent rest rather than at the end of the day.
Just under 8 weeks to go til the Bristol 10k, so I'll be mostly working towards that now. Full goals etc. next week. Looking to get something booked for summer soon.
> Nick Russell: Better weather in Margalef this week?
I suppose it improved, but far from ideal most days. Add to that the saga of getting home (we should have got back to Bristol yesterday. We didn't) and it wasn't quite the trip/holiday I'd hoped for.
M - Rain.
T - More rain. Climbed a few routes in the evening, including onsight of a nameless (and very good) 6c+ and a failed flash attempt at Draculín (7b)
W - Dry, but very cold. Went to Espadelles (S facing) but the sun didn't make an appearance. Had a few goes on Maligna (7c) but stripped it at the end of the day - conditions too unpredictable to commit to coming back to the same crag for a project.
T - Back to Espadelles, with some sun! But also a cold wind, quite pleasant when the sun was out but cold otherwise. Finished off Draculín (7b) after a lot of effort (about 4 goes today). Hard for the grade, I'd say, and very hard on the skin!
F - Rest day. Went for a hike: a more appropriate activity given the temperature!
S - Rain. Took Ally Smith's advice and headed to Raco de les Tenebres to have a go on La Corva de la Felicitat (7c) which stays dry. About 4 working goes.
S - A good day, warm and sunny! Did a good few routes at Cami de l'ermita including Flors i Violes (6b+) andErmiñaño (7a), both excellent! Went back to Tenebres for a couple of RP attempts on La Corva... but no send. Feels like it would have gone after a decent rest rather than at the end of the day.
Just under 8 weeks to go til the Bristol 10k, so I'll be mostly working towards that now. Full goals etc. next week. Looking to get something booked for summer soon.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing FC Alex! Still between -6 and -10 at night and -2 and +2 during the day, so definitely some ice left, but it rained alot as well last weeks, so some snow and some rain up in the mountains. Will try to get on ice this week as my nomics will arrive tomorrow.
M: running and core
T: indoor bouldering, don’t remember details, but did 2 laps on a 7- at the autobelay afterwards.
W: climbing outdoors, onsighted a trad 4 and bailed on another one (just too big for protection and too small to get in the crack) and onsighted a trad 5, and then did a sports 6 and toproped a 6+ trad route.
T: running.
F: rest
S: planned a big outing, 200m wall slightly overhanging at the top. Weather was quite bad, 5 degrees and a really strong wind. I started on the first pitch, but I turned around due to a sketchy nut and a chimney afterwards (I’d never climbed a chimney before and it was unprotectable), so partner led p1. On the second pitch I turned around due to not feeling my hands anymore. When seconding that pitch I fell on the move after where I turned around. Partner was cold as well so rappelled after 2 pitches and just as we were at the car it started raining. Then went to a new crag in the sun and out of the wind. Onsighted a trad 5 and afterwards upped my trad onsight grade from 5 (f5b) to 6- (f6a), quite happy with that after decking on a 6- in November.
S: outdoor bouldering, went pretty shite, did a F4 slab in 3 tries and a F6A in 4 tries (basically the start, not even the crux) and failed miserably on 5, 6A, 6B, 6A and another 6A. Did get a nice one hour bike ride to and from my mates place.
STG (next 2 weeks): climb outside. TICK this time, even 3 times .
New STG (this week only): climb some more rock and try the nomics on some ice.
Thanks for doing FC Alex! Still between -6 and -10 at night and -2 and +2 during the day, so definitely some ice left, but it rained alot as well last weeks, so some snow and some rain up in the mountains. Will try to get on ice this week as my nomics will arrive tomorrow.
M: running and core
T: indoor bouldering, don’t remember details, but did 2 laps on a 7- at the autobelay afterwards.
W: climbing outdoors, onsighted a trad 4 and bailed on another one (just too big for protection and too small to get in the crack) and onsighted a trad 5, and then did a sports 6 and toproped a 6+ trad route.
T: running.
F: rest
S: planned a big outing, 200m wall slightly overhanging at the top. Weather was quite bad, 5 degrees and a really strong wind. I started on the first pitch, but I turned around due to a sketchy nut and a chimney afterwards (I’d never climbed a chimney before and it was unprotectable), so partner led p1. On the second pitch I turned around due to not feeling my hands anymore. When seconding that pitch I fell on the move after where I turned around. Partner was cold as well so rappelled after 2 pitches and just as we were at the car it started raining. Then went to a new crag in the sun and out of the wind. Onsighted a trad 5 and afterwards upped my trad onsight grade from 5 (f5b) to 6- (f6a), quite happy with that after decking on a 6- in November.
S: outdoor bouldering, went pretty shite, did a F4 slab in 3 tries and a F6A in 4 tries (basically the start, not even the crux) and failed miserably on 5, 6A, 6B, 6A and another 6A. Did get a nice one hour bike ride to and from my mates place.
STG (next 2 weeks): climb outside. TICK this time, even 3 times .
New STG (this week only): climb some more rock and try the nomics on some ice.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Slightly better this week but work is manic. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Mon - run. 11.7km 200m of ascent
Thurs - cycle 19.2 km 520m ascent
Weight - a bit up last week but just weighed myself and appears to be back down. Have not been keeping to my diet rules very well - must try harder.
Not sure I'm going to make my height climbed targets for the month, but you never know, maybe a late surge.
Slightly better this week but work is manic. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel.
Mon - run. 11.7km 200m of ascent
Thurs - cycle 19.2 km 520m ascent
Weight - a bit up last week but just weighed myself and appears to be back down. Have not been keeping to my diet rules very well - must try harder.
Not sure I'm going to make my height climbed targets for the month, but you never know, maybe a late surge.
Post edited at 23:54
1
In reply to alexm198:
Hi alexm, thanks for writing the post. Spain was... ok, thanks! Margalef seems like a really cool area, but nicer and stabler weather would have helped a lot with enjoyment and getting climbing done. I'm also still very much trying to find my head again with outdoor climbing (to the extent I ever did find it) and the process is kind of painful. This also relates to your question about my VS lead goal. I may be able to climb 6c on a good day indoors, but I find that to be an utterly different proposition to even outdoor sport climbing, never mind trad leading. I'm good at steep steady overhangs with good plastic holds, clearly laid out and colour-coded, and a clip every other move. Outside I have redpointed in the 6b-6c range a handful of times, but mostly I just lose it. Struggle to read the routes, terrified to move above bolts, and as far as I can tell the kind of terrain that will get me up the mid-high 6s inside (sustainedly steep on good holds) simply doesn't exist in the grade range I'm capable of attempting outdoors. It's a bit depressing, but there it is... and all of this goes triple for trad which is scarier still and even more likely to be the slabby stuff that I suck at in the lower grades. I have seconded up to the low E grades though, so your assessment that I could probably do the climbing much harder than VS is correct.
Anyway, there's the context for my week in Spain!
Monday - rain. Cleared up and the sun came out in the late afternoon, wandered around doing a bit of reconnaissance of a couple of crags. Should have climbed: it was the best weather we'd see for the next two days.
Tuesday - rain. Went to Espadelles when it stopped in the late afternoon but it was absolutely freezing. I had no intention of trying to lead anything on wet rock while unable to feel my fingers, so top-roped a 6a+ and a 6c+, both dogged. The former was awful but the latter actually seemed like it would be a really nice climb in better conditions.
Wednesday - thick cloud and freezing cold, but dry. Back to Espadelles, decided to see whether I could make any progress on the 6c+ since I had actually liked it. Not really: despite Nick rigging me lots of extenders and extra clips, I completely froze up when confronted with a move even slightly above a bolt.
Thursday - some sun!! Still at Espadelles, tried the 6c+ a bit more with pretty similar results. I hadn't really been expecting to redpoint it but I guess I had hoped to string some moves together on lead and it just wasn't happening.
Friday - no climbing, a few hours' walk up to La Cogulla top. Best day of the trip.
Saturday - rain. Belayed Nick all day as he found a project that was staying mostly dry. Would have loved to try swinging around on the steep part just for fun, but very put off attempting this by the nasty awkward-looking first four bolts' worth.
Sunday - dry, a bit of sun! Went to Cami de l'ermita, tried to lead a 6a but panicpanicpanicpanic getting past the first bolt. Decided screw this leading awfulness, I was going to try and extract some actual climbing/enjoyment from the last day or so of the trip, and top-roped it (pretty easily) instead, then another 6a and a 6b+ (needed a couple of rests on the latter one, but it was pretty hard and a nice climb!).
Bonus Monday (to finish off the trip and because it contains actual good news) - sunny morning at Can Torxa. Actually redpointed a route!! It was a 5+ but this was very definitely still a victory. I climbed above bolts without completely collapsing and even put the clips in it myself. Afterwards, just as it was starting to rain, led about half of a really cool 6a+ as well. Ran out of time and weather to see what the upper section was like, but I genuinely enjoyed the lower part - big progress.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Mar-Apr)
Medium term (Mar, Apr, May)
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
> Emily: How’s it going in Spain? I’m interested as to why you place ‘leading a VS’ in your minor miracle goals?! If you’re climbing 6c you’d fly up trad routes harder than VS with no issue!
Hi alexm, thanks for writing the post. Spain was... ok, thanks! Margalef seems like a really cool area, but nicer and stabler weather would have helped a lot with enjoyment and getting climbing done. I'm also still very much trying to find my head again with outdoor climbing (to the extent I ever did find it) and the process is kind of painful. This also relates to your question about my VS lead goal. I may be able to climb 6c on a good day indoors, but I find that to be an utterly different proposition to even outdoor sport climbing, never mind trad leading. I'm good at steep steady overhangs with good plastic holds, clearly laid out and colour-coded, and a clip every other move. Outside I have redpointed in the 6b-6c range a handful of times, but mostly I just lose it. Struggle to read the routes, terrified to move above bolts, and as far as I can tell the kind of terrain that will get me up the mid-high 6s inside (sustainedly steep on good holds) simply doesn't exist in the grade range I'm capable of attempting outdoors. It's a bit depressing, but there it is... and all of this goes triple for trad which is scarier still and even more likely to be the slabby stuff that I suck at in the lower grades. I have seconded up to the low E grades though, so your assessment that I could probably do the climbing much harder than VS is correct.
Anyway, there's the context for my week in Spain!
Monday - rain. Cleared up and the sun came out in the late afternoon, wandered around doing a bit of reconnaissance of a couple of crags. Should have climbed: it was the best weather we'd see for the next two days.
Tuesday - rain. Went to Espadelles when it stopped in the late afternoon but it was absolutely freezing. I had no intention of trying to lead anything on wet rock while unable to feel my fingers, so top-roped a 6a+ and a 6c+, both dogged. The former was awful but the latter actually seemed like it would be a really nice climb in better conditions.
Wednesday - thick cloud and freezing cold, but dry. Back to Espadelles, decided to see whether I could make any progress on the 6c+ since I had actually liked it. Not really: despite Nick rigging me lots of extenders and extra clips, I completely froze up when confronted with a move even slightly above a bolt.
Thursday - some sun!! Still at Espadelles, tried the 6c+ a bit more with pretty similar results. I hadn't really been expecting to redpoint it but I guess I had hoped to string some moves together on lead and it just wasn't happening.
Friday - no climbing, a few hours' walk up to La Cogulla top. Best day of the trip.
Saturday - rain. Belayed Nick all day as he found a project that was staying mostly dry. Would have loved to try swinging around on the steep part just for fun, but very put off attempting this by the nasty awkward-looking first four bolts' worth.
Sunday - dry, a bit of sun! Went to Cami de l'ermita, tried to lead a 6a but panicpanicpanicpanic getting past the first bolt. Decided screw this leading awfulness, I was going to try and extract some actual climbing/enjoyment from the last day or so of the trip, and top-roped it (pretty easily) instead, then another 6a and a 6b+ (needed a couple of rests on the latter one, but it was pretty hard and a nice climb!).
Bonus Monday (to finish off the trip and because it contains actual good news) - sunny morning at Can Torxa. Actually redpointed a route!! It was a 5+ but this was very definitely still a victory. I climbed above bolts without completely collapsing and even put the clips in it myself. Afterwards, just as it was starting to rain, led about half of a really cool 6a+ as well. Ran out of time and weather to see what the upper section was like, but I genuinely enjoyed the lower part - big progress.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Mar-Apr)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- not a clue where I'm at post holiday, but probably up because I ate like I was climbing hard every day and manifestly was not. Collecting data, will report next week
- climb with good attitude in Spain (mid March) and have fun even if I suck!
- definitely didn't do great on this one but the weather really, really didn't help
- 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
Medium term (Mar, Apr, May)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 15/36 done, on track
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates
- 1.5 days on Portland so far this year
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
1
In reply to Emily and Nick:
Sorry to hear about your weather woes in Margalef, I hope it perks up as I'm flying out on Saturday!
Emily you sound exactly like my wife in regards to leading confidence, her solution was to just ignore leading completely and enjoy the routes on top rope, it never stopped her having a great time on the rock! (but then she isn't too bothered by getting a 'proper' tick, I can fully appreciate that you might feel a route is not properly ticked until you have led it.)
I think her relaxed attitude to it has allowed her to climb with more enjoyment, and perhaps one day she will decide she wants to lead and the oodles of mileage and technique development she has done on toprope will give her the confidence to get leading quite quickly.
I personally hope she decides to lead soon because she is already hitting 7a's, it won't be long before her routes will be too hard for me to put a rope on!
I think my point is not to worry about it and not to force it, enjoy the rock, it will come!
Sorry to hear about your weather woes in Margalef, I hope it perks up as I'm flying out on Saturday!
Emily you sound exactly like my wife in regards to leading confidence, her solution was to just ignore leading completely and enjoy the routes on top rope, it never stopped her having a great time on the rock! (but then she isn't too bothered by getting a 'proper' tick, I can fully appreciate that you might feel a route is not properly ticked until you have led it.)
I think her relaxed attitude to it has allowed her to climb with more enjoyment, and perhaps one day she will decide she wants to lead and the oodles of mileage and technique development she has done on toprope will give her the confidence to get leading quite quickly.
I personally hope she decides to lead soon because she is already hitting 7a's, it won't be long before her routes will be too hard for me to put a rope on!
I think my point is not to worry about it and not to force it, enjoy the rock, it will come!
In reply to Si dH:
Yeah, you're right, I really get weighed in the morning to get the lowest value :/
> I weigh myself most mornings and evenings, variability week to week is the same whatever time I use. Sunday night generally works pretty well.
Yeah, you're right, I really get weighed in the morning to get the lowest value :/
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Yes I was next to you on Appetite at one point. I think I had met your partner (Quiddity?) there once before but I may have just thought I had as a result of years being on here!
Yes I was next to you on Appetite at one point. I think I had met your partner (Quiddity?) there once before but I may have just thought I had as a result of years being on here!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan; it's definitely nice to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with this. Just settling for top-roping and seconding enjoyment is pretty much what I did for the first few years since being introduced to climbing, but when I (finally - it took about 2 years of concerted effort) got my leading going properly indoors I did start enjoying it a lot more than top-roping. Partly for this reason I really am quite motivated to "play the game properly" outdoors and it's always more fun for both parties when I don't have to rely on Nick as much to put routes up for me (not that he complains, he's very good about it!). Unfortunately at this point I think top-roping mileage does more damage than it helps in my case: I just don't think about the moves the same way and then when the top-rope is taken away again I'm back at square one. Better (like I managed on Monday) to force myself through the panicpanicpanic stage and then I sometimes get a little bit of momentum going. I can only hope that if I do this enough times, said panicpanicpanic stage will get briefer and less severe. This happened a bit last summer but then I did no outdoor climbing for 6 months.
Really hope the Margalef weather improves for you! It was definitely an exciting place - I'd go back despite the very suboptimal trip. It was getting considerably warmer towards the end of our week so climbing felt a lot more possible even when the sun wasn't properly out; hopefully that trend will continue for you.
> Sorry to hear about your weather woes in Margalef, I hope it perks up as I'm flying out on Saturday!
> Emily you sound exactly like my wife in regards to leading confidence, her solution was to just ignore leading completely and enjoy the routes on top rope, it never stopped her having a great time on the rock! (but then she isn't too bothered by getting a 'proper' tick, I can fully appreciate that you might feel a route is not properly ticked until you have led it.)
> I think her relaxed attitude to it has allowed her to climb with more enjoyment, and perhaps one day she will decide she wants to lead and the oodles of mileage and technique development she has done on toprope will give her the confidence to get leading quite quickly.
> I personally hope she decides to lead soon because she is already hitting 7a's, it won't be long before her routes will be too hard for me to put a rope on!
> I think my point is not to worry about it and not to force it, enjoy the rock, it will come!
Thanks Dandan; it's definitely nice to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with this. Just settling for top-roping and seconding enjoyment is pretty much what I did for the first few years since being introduced to climbing, but when I (finally - it took about 2 years of concerted effort) got my leading going properly indoors I did start enjoying it a lot more than top-roping. Partly for this reason I really am quite motivated to "play the game properly" outdoors and it's always more fun for both parties when I don't have to rely on Nick as much to put routes up for me (not that he complains, he's very good about it!). Unfortunately at this point I think top-roping mileage does more damage than it helps in my case: I just don't think about the moves the same way and then when the top-rope is taken away again I'm back at square one. Better (like I managed on Monday) to force myself through the panicpanicpanic stage and then I sometimes get a little bit of momentum going. I can only hope that if I do this enough times, said panicpanicpanic stage will get briefer and less severe. This happened a bit last summer but then I did no outdoor climbing for 6 months.
Really hope the Margalef weather improves for you! It was definitely an exciting place - I'd go back despite the very suboptimal trip. It was getting considerably warmer towards the end of our week so climbing felt a lot more possible even when the sun wasn't properly out; hopefully that trend will continue for you.
In reply to Emily:
In that case have you thought about seeing a coach for the mental aspect of leading? Might save you a whole lot of 'panicpanicpanic'!
I don't push my wife to lead as I know it won't help the situation but it sounds like you are the one doing the pushing so I hope you can make some progress. I can't offer any top tips as climbing has never been a mental game for me (clearly not enough imagination), so me saying 'just get on with it' probably won't help...
The forecast is looking pretty positive for the next couple of weeks so I'm hopeful. It's hard to believe I was there at Easter 5 years ago and it was so hot that swimming in the ice-cold reservoir was actually enjoyable!
In that case have you thought about seeing a coach for the mental aspect of leading? Might save you a whole lot of 'panicpanicpanic'!
I don't push my wife to lead as I know it won't help the situation but it sounds like you are the one doing the pushing so I hope you can make some progress. I can't offer any top tips as climbing has never been a mental game for me (clearly not enough imagination), so me saying 'just get on with it' probably won't help...
The forecast is looking pretty positive for the next couple of weeks so I'm hopeful. It's hard to believe I was there at Easter 5 years ago and it was so hot that swimming in the ice-cold reservoir was actually enjoyable!
In reply to Dandan:
I probably should consider that, actually. I know very well from swimming just how much difference some input from a decent coach can make. And Nick has suggested it too - so thanks for independently pointing out that it could help, that may prod me into actually looking into it!
Your Margalef experience 5 years ago sounds a lot more like what I was hoping for... Will definitely have to go again sometime I think!
I probably should consider that, actually. I know very well from swimming just how much difference some input from a decent coach can make. And Nick has suggested it too - so thanks for independently pointing out that it could help, that may prod me into actually looking into it!
Your Margalef experience 5 years ago sounds a lot more like what I was hoping for... Will definitely have to go again sometime I think!
1
In reply to Emily:
coincidentally, there is an advert in the sidebar over there -> for Boreal shoes that says 'think less, climb more', works for me!
coincidentally, there is an advert in the sidebar over there -> for Boreal shoes that says 'think less, climb more', works for me!
1
In reply to Emily:
Ali (MrsAJM, I forget if you've met her?) is very similar too, except she gets it on all forms of lead climbing, even indoor, and sometimes toproping too.
> it's definitely nice to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with this
Ali (MrsAJM, I forget if you've met her?) is very similar too, except she gets it on all forms of lead climbing, even indoor, and sometimes toproping too.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. The physio seems to think it is going to take me 3 weeks to the next phase but I am assuming she is working on average patient and worst case scenario so will assiduously do my exercises and prove her wrong. She put me back on crutches as I was ‘waddling’ side to side, and told me not to ditch them until I roll through my foot properly… Next appointment the morning of my flight to my US trip. Continuity is a session to build aerobic fitness, something that is very apparently missing after being broken for so long. Didn’t quite get in the whole plan this week so will bleed into next week (a light week) slightly.
M – Aerocap Brookes
T – Fingerboard
W – rest
T – Fingerboard
F – Aerocap/Conditioning
S – 2km exhausting crutch “Walking” with mum and guide dog. Conditioning
S – Aerocap
Goals update:
SSTG: by next Fit Club entry
* Be crutch free – not quite but have started today.
* Free walking using boot outside and without boot in the house – in house yes
* Positive report from physio on Tuesday – mixed. I refuse to believe I will be as slow as she thinks.
New SSTG :
*Wall test score of positive numbers on injured leg (-3cm when tested on Tuesday)
* Re-gain leg muscle and flexibility. Book sports massage to help with this
* Physio 3x daily plus extra yoga/body balance etc where possible
* Outdoor one-legged traversing on grit over Easter weekend
STG:
* Strong and stable enough to walk 4 miles in the Lakes 4-6 April
* Be strong and stable enough to ski gently in US on 8th April
Thanks Alex. The physio seems to think it is going to take me 3 weeks to the next phase but I am assuming she is working on average patient and worst case scenario so will assiduously do my exercises and prove her wrong. She put me back on crutches as I was ‘waddling’ side to side, and told me not to ditch them until I roll through my foot properly… Next appointment the morning of my flight to my US trip. Continuity is a session to build aerobic fitness, something that is very apparently missing after being broken for so long. Didn’t quite get in the whole plan this week so will bleed into next week (a light week) slightly.
M – Aerocap Brookes
T – Fingerboard
W – rest
T – Fingerboard
F – Aerocap/Conditioning
S – 2km exhausting crutch “Walking” with mum and guide dog. Conditioning
S – Aerocap
Goals update:
SSTG: by next Fit Club entry
* Be crutch free – not quite but have started today.
* Free walking using boot outside and without boot in the house – in house yes
* Positive report from physio on Tuesday – mixed. I refuse to believe I will be as slow as she thinks.
New SSTG :
*Wall test score of positive numbers on injured leg (-3cm when tested on Tuesday)
* Re-gain leg muscle and flexibility. Book sports massage to help with this
* Physio 3x daily plus extra yoga/body balance etc where possible
* Outdoor one-legged traversing on grit over Easter weekend
STG:
* Strong and stable enough to walk 4 miles in the Lakes 4-6 April
* Be strong and stable enough to ski gently in US on 8th April
In reply to AJM:
Yeah, I remember meeting Ali the time Nick and I met up with you guys in Portland. I'm definitely not totally immune to the panicking thing on indoor leading or occasionally when toproping, either... well, if she and/or MrsDandan ever feel like taking up Fit Club there could be a few of us working on similar stuff thanks for all the input guys, it's really appreciated.
Yeah, I remember meeting Ali the time Nick and I met up with you guys in Portland. I'm definitely not totally immune to the panicking thing on indoor leading or occasionally when toproping, either... well, if she and/or MrsDandan ever feel like taking up Fit Club there could be a few of us working on similar stuff thanks for all the input guys, it's really appreciated.
1
In reply to Emily:
*Waves* I'm another one struggling with some fear issues. Leading indoors is still a handful for me in terms of confidence to come off or climb hard, but it is slowly improving for the most part. Outdoors I have so little experience it gets overwhelming really quickly and I haven't led (yet!).
*Waves* I'm another one struggling with some fear issues. Leading indoors is still a handful for me in terms of confidence to come off or climb hard, but it is slowly improving for the most part. Outdoors I have so little experience it gets overwhelming really quickly and I haven't led (yet!).
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the thread Alex! My entry for this week;
http://wac.450f.edgecastcdn.net/80450F/hot1047.com/files/2013/02/walking-de...
Thanks for the thread Alex! My entry for this week;
http://wac.450f.edgecastcdn.net/80450F/hot1047.com/files/2013/02/walking-de...
In reply to Emily:
I can recommend Ben West as a local based coach - think he could definitely help the fear of falling thing. His email is info@ben-west.co.uk.
I think the thing that helps my fear of falling is serious redpointing. When I finally go for the full on attempt I'm so in the movement that falling doesn't cross my mind. If it happens, it happens and that's ok. Also I'll know exactly where to get all the clips in from - the thing that spooks me most, indoors and out, is not feeling I can get the clip in.
I can recommend Ben West as a local based coach - think he could definitely help the fear of falling thing. His email is info@ben-west.co.uk.
I think the thing that helps my fear of falling is serious redpointing. When I finally go for the full on attempt I'm so in the movement that falling doesn't cross my mind. If it happens, it happens and that's ok. Also I'll know exactly where to get all the clips in from - the thing that spooks me most, indoors and out, is not feeling I can get the clip in.
2
In reply to Emily:
You are definitely not alone with this!
My low point was probably audible whimpering/crying at the wall with the bolt just below my waist.
Things go up and down, mileage on rock helps. Often I need to take a fall or two in order to realise that I'm not as scared as I think I am. I do find that my comfort zone shrinks whenever I am not actively working to expand it.
You are definitely not alone with this!
My low point was probably audible whimpering/crying at the wall with the bolt just below my waist.
Things go up and down, mileage on rock helps. Often I need to take a fall or two in order to realise that I'm not as scared as I think I am. I do find that my comfort zone shrinks whenever I am not actively working to expand it.
In reply to hms and Curious Yellow:
> I think the thing that helps my fear of falling is serious redpointing. When I finally go for the full on attempt I'm so in the movement that falling doesn't cross my mind. If it happens, it happens and that's ok. Also I'll know exactly where to get all the clips in from - the thing that spooks me most, indoors and out, is not feeling I can get the clip in.
Yeah, on the occasions I've made it to this point I've found similar - the tough part is getting started and working stuff out on lead. (If I try working it out on top rope, I don't figure out which are the hard parts because I unthinkingly do moves that I don't realise are terrifying until I try to lead that move - and I think I find that taking away a top rope is more panic-inducing than never having had one up.) I also get this weird nonsense where in my head it's somehow more "legitimate" to fall off on a redpoint attempt - I'm aware this makes zero sense but I'm really afraid of falls that I "shouldn't" be taking for all sorts of stupid values of "shouldn't"! Thanks for the coach recommendation as well.> Often I need to take a fall or two in order to realise that I'm not as scared as I think I am. I do find that my comfort zone shrinks whenever I am not actively working to expand it.
Definitely rings true on both counts!Post edited at 11:17
To add to the list of complaints from last week... I think I've injured my knee. I was going for quite an aggressive heel hook on Saturday and something went pop. It doesn't really hurt much, and I can run/climb/etc. on it, but it just feels a bit wrong. Plus the pop was quite alarming. I think I'm going to have to see somebody about it next week, though being one of those vague complaints (it just kind of hurts a bit somewhere around my knee) I'm not very optimistic about getting decent advice.
Combined with the nasty blister cluster on my foot, I think any training for the 10k is going to be seriously hampered for a week or two. I was looking forward to some hard training for it over the next 4-5 weeks and getting a decent time, but now I'm thinking I might have to settle for getting round the course without further injury, and hopefully have a good weekend with some friends. I just don't seem to be able to stay fit and uninjured for long enough to actually perform well in any running events.
Complaint over. I hope everyone had a nice day in the sun
Combined with the nasty blister cluster on my foot, I think any training for the 10k is going to be seriously hampered for a week or two. I was looking forward to some hard training for it over the next 4-5 weeks and getting a decent time, but now I'm thinking I might have to settle for getting round the course without further injury, and hopefully have a good weekend with some friends. I just don't seem to be able to stay fit and uninjured for long enough to actually perform well in any running events.
Complaint over. I hope everyone had a nice day in the sun
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