In reply to SenzuBean:
> Also if anyone reading this has been up anywhere in that area in the last few days and can advise on the snow conditions that would be great. (we will of course have crampons and ice axes, but knowing what the snow is doing will inform my route choices).
Snow level is around 650 - 700m, thawing fast on W through S faces. N / NE faces holding a fair amount of snow. The pack is currently stable, but warm and wet this weekend might make for wet slab slides. Cornice collapse is also going on. Snow is icy and firm in the mornings, and staying that way overnight. Remaining firm in the shade.
I'd be prepared for everything! Last weekend I covered everything including grassy spring walking, icy ridge traversing (definitely crampons and axe territory!), thigh-deep slush-bashing and lovely dry hot rock, all on one ascent. Perfect spring!