UKC

So Im an expat living in New Mexico, and coming home to spend 2 weeks with my folks in York this July. Didn't climb much - or very seriously - when I lived there, now Im a full blown rock addict and psyched to spend the vacation on as many grit/limestone classics as poss.

I will have trad & sport racks, and pads - anything goes as I want to roll with the weather (which I know all too well... figure July is a good time as will have lots of daylight at least). Im familiar with Almscliffe, Brimham and Slipstones/Masham. Grade-wise I lead 5.12 sport (7's), 5.10+/11- trad (~E3?) and boulder V8/9 (7b+/c?).

So, what are the mega classics and crags that I absolutely must climb on? Stanage for sure - plantation for bouldering is already on the list. Malham cove would also be great as I spent many years in my youth hiking in that area and always looked up in wonder at the lycra-clad climbers there.

Guidebook recommendations? I have the old Yorkshire gritstone trad guide and the new Yorkshire bouldering book. Which book(s) do I need for peak grit and Malham area sport? Happy to spend some money on some good guidebooks.

Bouldering-wise I like the steeps and the slopers... not so much into slabs (slabs are great for ropes though). I didn't particularly rate the bouldering at Almscliffe last time I was there, but maybe I missed the good stuff? I heard Caley is good?

Really hope the good people of UKC can help me out, really stoked to spend some time re-discovering my homeland. Thanks!

In reply to owensum:

As well as any useful advice here (and I would also try UKB... more of the better local climbers post there), I'd advise at least buying the two newish YMC grit guides, before you come, for advance research on the grit bouldering and trad climbing. Loads of inspiration, lists, history etc and at 700+ fun packed pages each, arguably they are up with the best value per page guides anywhere.

In reply to owensum:


Rockfax Northern Limestone. Kilnsey might be a better option in July, it's in the shade from lunchtime.

Thanks guys, yeah will post to UKB too, good idea. Was also thinking of Kilnsey, useful beta on shade cheers. Last time I was home in the summer it was flippin cold, especially compared to New Mex, but we'll see - Im counting on unpredictable weather...

Rockfax Northern Limestone, YMC gristone vol 1 & 2. Maybe the peak bouldering book too?

In reply to owensum:

Quite likely Malham will be too hot in July so Kilnsey and Gordale might be better options for sport.

In reply to owensum:
Worth visiting Malham though, if you have time, even if it's too hot to climb. This is Britain after all. The weather might be favourable. Kilnsey and Gordale as the others mention.

Well coming from NM, "too hot" is kinda relative, but too humid might be a real deal breaker. Anyhow, I would love to get some climbing done in the cove for sure.

In reply to owensum:


The routes on the left hand side of the cove, Yosemite Wall area, get in the shade relatively early, should make it possible to get something done later on in the day.

Ok thanks! I guess I will get all rest of the necessary beta I need from guidebooks... but if anyone has any recommendations for steep boulders on the grit V5-9, Im all ears