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Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637072
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/22993356 maybe not up everybody's street but I've lost track of the number of times I've watched this. Always gets me psyched.
JayK: sounds like a decent week again. Do you have a training facility at home for the campus sessions?
AJM: Awesome, would love to get over to the states some time. When are you back?
Si dH: Feeling better this week? Any more progress on Wright's Traverse?
stevemarkperry: Congrats! Any progress on the last of those STGs?
Planetmarshall: manage to get out on the rock this week?
Biscuit: how's the chullila prep going? What's the craic with the high fat/low carb thing, would be interested to hear more info about it.
Joughton: welcome back and sounds like a good week! Wish I was still a student and had all the free time that goes with it how's Spain?
Robin Brooke: definitely making the most of those non-injured muscles! More of the same this week? How's the shoulder?
Curious Yellow: good work on Tremelo, did you manage to get back to it this week?
Tyler: welcome back! I've found even a small amount of yoga tends to help my -admittedly punterish- climbing. Definitely interested to know how regularity affects gains there, too.
hms: ooft, non climbing holiday! I know how alien those feel. Manage any wall sessions?
hokkyokusei: finally, a rest week! feeling better at all? Peru sounds cool, what are your objectives?
Dandan82: how was the pre-trip taper week? What's on the ticklist for Margalef?
TonyB: walking with radio telescopes - unorthodox training! How was this week?
cha1n: sorry to hear that, I know how easy it is to fall into the structureless 'today I did this, yesterday I did that'. Best of luck!
mattrm: do you think that more specific goals might help with getting more structured training in?
Nick Russell: bad luck with the weather - hadn't even occurred to me that rain was a thing in Spain. Sorry to hear about the knee - how's it developing?
0.5viking: good effort hunting out the ice - did you get a chance to use the nomics this week? I found they were a total revolution on ice - just never use them for mixed as they're ridiculously un-durable!
James Moyle: how did you get on with the ascent goals? What are you using to inform your alpine training, out of interest?
Emily: yeah, the head game aspect of climbing is hard! It'll come eventually though, sounds like some good progress was made on Monday!
Just Tintin: how'd you weigh in on the new SSTGs? Where are you off to in the states?
Flopsicle: hope this week was better!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637072
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/22993356 maybe not up everybody's street but I've lost track of the number of times I've watched this. Always gets me psyched.
JayK: sounds like a decent week again. Do you have a training facility at home for the campus sessions?
AJM: Awesome, would love to get over to the states some time. When are you back?
Si dH: Feeling better this week? Any more progress on Wright's Traverse?
stevemarkperry: Congrats! Any progress on the last of those STGs?
Planetmarshall: manage to get out on the rock this week?
Biscuit: how's the chullila prep going? What's the craic with the high fat/low carb thing, would be interested to hear more info about it.
Joughton: welcome back and sounds like a good week! Wish I was still a student and had all the free time that goes with it how's Spain?
Robin Brooke: definitely making the most of those non-injured muscles! More of the same this week? How's the shoulder?
Curious Yellow: good work on Tremelo, did you manage to get back to it this week?
Tyler: welcome back! I've found even a small amount of yoga tends to help my -admittedly punterish- climbing. Definitely interested to know how regularity affects gains there, too.
hms: ooft, non climbing holiday! I know how alien those feel. Manage any wall sessions?
hokkyokusei: finally, a rest week! feeling better at all? Peru sounds cool, what are your objectives?
Dandan82: how was the pre-trip taper week? What's on the ticklist for Margalef?
TonyB: walking with radio telescopes - unorthodox training! How was this week?
cha1n: sorry to hear that, I know how easy it is to fall into the structureless 'today I did this, yesterday I did that'. Best of luck!
mattrm: do you think that more specific goals might help with getting more structured training in?
Nick Russell: bad luck with the weather - hadn't even occurred to me that rain was a thing in Spain. Sorry to hear about the knee - how's it developing?
0.5viking: good effort hunting out the ice - did you get a chance to use the nomics this week? I found they were a total revolution on ice - just never use them for mixed as they're ridiculously un-durable!
James Moyle: how did you get on with the ascent goals? What are you using to inform your alpine training, out of interest?
Emily: yeah, the head game aspect of climbing is hard! It'll come eventually though, sounds like some good progress was made on Monday!
Just Tintin: how'd you weigh in on the new SSTGs? Where are you off to in the states?
Flopsicle: hope this week was better!
1
In reply to alexm198:
Yep, fully better thanks Alex, the vold only lasted a few days.
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), had a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn't do the crux. Didn't try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet. [2 sessions on Wright's but no tick yet.]
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
M: visiting aged rellies, did some core work
T: evening lantern session at the Churnet, trying Unicorn (7B.) Got pretty close, just needed another in inch on the crux, so keen to go back. Did the stand which gets 6C+.
W: core exercises
T: shoulder rehab
F: had a second session on Wright's Traverse for a couple of hours in the morning. Did the crux in isolation a couple of times (ie the move I hadn't done in my previous session) and linked the rest of the problem up to that point. If I could link through the crux I'd be confident of the tick, but my ability to recover on good holds on steep ground just pre-crux seemed poor, and i felt too tired to even initiate the move. There is a bat hang available just pre-crux but I'm not brave enough to use it...
S: nothing - drive to Wales for week away with Ruth.
S: did some core and shoulder rehab exercises this morning. Currently the weather is terrible, haven't left our apartment in Porthmadog!
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 4lbs.
Pleased to get out twice in the week. Now on a non climbing holiday for the next week although weather-dependent I'm hoping to get one bouldering session in, and lots of walking.
Si
Yep, fully better thanks Alex, the vold only lasted a few days.
Goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs. [End result: T Crack, A Case of Mistaken Identity, Monochrome (all 7B) and Flatworld (7B+). Jerry's Traverse not possible due to left shoulder problems. Happy with this.]
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. [End result: Did Crazy Horse (2 days/3 sessions), had a session and made good progress on Magic Bus but couldn't do the crux. Didn't try Barre Fixe.] After Font, do Moffatrocity (7B+) if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet. [2 sessions on Wright's but no tick yet.]
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering (more limestone F7B/+s) and, if Arch Enemies went well, get on an F8a.
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C).
M: visiting aged rellies, did some core work
T: evening lantern session at the Churnet, trying Unicorn (7B.) Got pretty close, just needed another in inch on the crux, so keen to go back. Did the stand which gets 6C+.
W: core exercises
T: shoulder rehab
F: had a second session on Wright's Traverse for a couple of hours in the morning. Did the crux in isolation a couple of times (ie the move I hadn't done in my previous session) and linked the rest of the problem up to that point. If I could link through the crux I'd be confident of the tick, but my ability to recover on good holds on steep ground just pre-crux seemed poor, and i felt too tired to even initiate the move. There is a bat hang available just pre-crux but I'm not brave enough to use it...
S: nothing - drive to Wales for week away with Ruth.
S: did some core and shoulder rehab exercises this morning. Currently the weather is terrible, haven't left our apartment in Porthmadog!
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 4lbs.
Pleased to get out twice in the week. Now on a non climbing holiday for the next week although weather-dependent I'm hoping to get one bouldering session in, and lots of walking.
Si
1
In reply to alexm198:
Monday - reported last week, last morning of climbing in Margalef. Tried to fly home in the evening, flight delayed and then delayed some more and then cancelled. Airline put us in a hotel in Barcelona at 3am.
Tuesday - nothing; supposed to be back in Bristol but instead spent most of the day getting home.
Wednesday - running, 8 x (90s fast 3 min jog) plus warmup and cooldown for total 9.2km in 49:27.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - running, tired and stiff calf so took it easyish, 10km in 57:20. Later, trampolining: worked on front somersault, trying to get higher and slow it down to feel more in control. Up - wait - tuck - wait - out.
Saturday - climbing at Redpoint. Not much focus but went up a 7a just for the hell of it (it had big holds on it!). Never tried one before and I did manage to lead all the moves so that was pretty good. Scary clip around the hard part. Felt more redpointable than the 6c I tried (hard blind move that I could hit about 1 time in 5). Also made myself climb a horrible slab twice.
Sunday - running, 45 min as 15 easy warmup, 15 steady build from ~6:00/km to ~4:20/km pace, 15 easy cooldown. Worked hard, legs feeling pretty battered after this.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Mar-Apr)
Medium term (Apr, May, June)
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
> Emily: yeah, the head game aspect of climbing is hard! It'll come eventually though, sounds like some good progress was made on Monday!
Thanks - the discussion on last week's post was really helpful, so thanks again to all! I had what felt like a bit of a lazy week this week although looking at it now it wasn't that bad.Monday - reported last week, last morning of climbing in Margalef. Tried to fly home in the evening, flight delayed and then delayed some more and then cancelled. Airline put us in a hotel in Barcelona at 3am.
Tuesday - nothing; supposed to be back in Bristol but instead spent most of the day getting home.
Wednesday - running, 8 x (90s fast 3 min jog) plus warmup and cooldown for total 9.2km in 49:27.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - running, tired and stiff calf so took it easyish, 10km in 57:20. Later, trampolining: worked on front somersault, trying to get higher and slow it down to feel more in control. Up - wait - tuck - wait - out.
Saturday - climbing at Redpoint. Not much focus but went up a 7a just for the hell of it (it had big holds on it!). Never tried one before and I did manage to lead all the moves so that was pretty good. Scary clip around the hard part. Felt more redpointable than the 6c I tried (hard blind move that I could hit about 1 time in 5). Also made myself climb a horrible slab twice.
Sunday - running, 45 min as 15 easy warmup, 15 steady build from ~6:00/km to ~4:20/km pace, 15 easy cooldown. Worked hard, legs feeling pretty battered after this.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Mar-Apr)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- seem to be about 0.2kg up from just before holiday which isn't so bad; trying to get this heading down again
- 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
- yep, 3 done this week
- plan a summer climbing trip
Medium term (Apr, May, June)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 18/36 done, on track
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- climb something outside in the UK if the weather ever cooperates
- 1.5 days on Portland so far this year
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- I tried one and it didn't seem that many light years away! Probably very soft...
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
Post edited at 11:49
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex.
how's the chullila prep going? What's the craic with the high fat/low carb thing, would be interested to hear more info about it.
It's going OK - I hope. First time I've properly periodised before a trip. It's been in no way perfect but I've stuck to it as best I can and it'll be interesting to see what happens. If nothing else I've learnt an awful lot about how it all works ready for the next phase before Summer.
The high fat low carb thing does what it says on the tin. Initial plan was to have less than 100g carbs a day. That turned out to be fairly easy for me so I've got down to about 30g a day. Now trying carb free during the day and a few carbs in the evening. That's harder than it sounds. I blew it yesterday by eating a tomato! Latest TrainingBeta podcast has Neil G talking about it too. All I can say is it works for me. Finding it tricky this week as I'm staying at my Mums and going away for a couple of days. I will just do the best I can. It also means i'm not able to weigh myself until later this week.
Two good aero pow sessions done. 1st was 4 sets of 4 reps of 6b+ (autobelay) with 7 min rest between sets. This was dropped from 10 min the week previous. It felt easy. Then had a go on 6c+ with 10 min rest and just scraped it. I got someone to check the grade, as I had a horrible feeling it was just a soft route rather than me improving, and they said it was close enough. I couldn't fit a planned 3rd session in.
This week:
2 aero pow sessions - aim to reduce rest time on 6c+ 4x4's. May also have a quick o/s attempt on the new 7a as a confidence booster before I go away.
Cheers Alex.
how's the chullila prep going? What's the craic with the high fat/low carb thing, would be interested to hear more info about it.
It's going OK - I hope. First time I've properly periodised before a trip. It's been in no way perfect but I've stuck to it as best I can and it'll be interesting to see what happens. If nothing else I've learnt an awful lot about how it all works ready for the next phase before Summer.
The high fat low carb thing does what it says on the tin. Initial plan was to have less than 100g carbs a day. That turned out to be fairly easy for me so I've got down to about 30g a day. Now trying carb free during the day and a few carbs in the evening. That's harder than it sounds. I blew it yesterday by eating a tomato! Latest TrainingBeta podcast has Neil G talking about it too. All I can say is it works for me. Finding it tricky this week as I'm staying at my Mums and going away for a couple of days. I will just do the best I can. It also means i'm not able to weigh myself until later this week.
Two good aero pow sessions done. 1st was 4 sets of 4 reps of 6b+ (autobelay) with 7 min rest between sets. This was dropped from 10 min the week previous. It felt easy. Then had a go on 6c+ with 10 min rest and just scraped it. I got someone to check the grade, as I had a horrible feeling it was just a soft route rather than me improving, and they said it was close enough. I couldn't fit a planned 3rd session in.
This week:
2 aero pow sessions - aim to reduce rest time on 6c+ 4x4's. May also have a quick o/s attempt on the new 7a as a confidence booster before I go away.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Bit if nightmare last week. Ofsted phoned up so work was manic. I've spent the last few days recovering but managed a session down the wall and half a day at Dinbren (although the walk up the hill almost killed me). I'm not sure how much the training has paid off, as I kept powering out on a traversey 7c. Although I'm not sure how much I can base on Fridays session as I felt utterly crap.
With regards to training. I moved to the city centre so the local wall (BBC) is less than a 5 minute walk.
I'm going to try and get out tomorrow (sport if I can find a partner) and indoors on Tuesday before flying on Wednesday. Pizza twice, Miller and Carter, balti and a Chinese has killed the weight improvements. I couldn't help myself.
Bit if nightmare last week. Ofsted phoned up so work was manic. I've spent the last few days recovering but managed a session down the wall and half a day at Dinbren (although the walk up the hill almost killed me). I'm not sure how much the training has paid off, as I kept powering out on a traversey 7c. Although I'm not sure how much I can base on Fridays session as I felt utterly crap.
With regards to training. I moved to the city centre so the local wall (BBC) is less than a 5 minute walk.
I'm going to try and get out tomorrow (sport if I can find a partner) and indoors on Tuesday before flying on Wednesday. Pizza twice, Miller and Carter, balti and a Chinese has killed the weight improvements. I couldn't help myself.
In reply to alexm198:
Woooaahhh! That pysche video, I have zero mixed climbing experience, nor soloing, but watching it feels like the risk levels are dialled fairly high.
Rehab week 4 (training on pause) more of the same this week, continuing the winding path of rehab, and choosing to take it very cautiously as medium (rather than short) term is my priority. Physio seems happy, I can climb without pain, but taking it really easy, no real training workload yet, other than some core + theraband + new rotator cuff strengthening. Still feel discomfort in the shoulder during the day but it has been reducing. No real idea how long it 'normally' takes to go completely (yes I am choosing to believe it will go completely!), and the Physio is hard to pin down on timetable, is this the problem with paying by the hour...
M: Shoulder strengthening routine (theraband plus light weighted rotations plus single arm wall press-ups) plus forearm pronation and Supination preventative routine, plus 200 sit-ups, 200 squats, 50 chest raises, 75 leg raises, 3min front plank, bridge and stretches
T: same at Monday
W: same at Monday
Th: light climbing session with partner. 10 lead routes upto 6c max.
F: same at Monday
S: light boulder session (max V3) ~2 hours
Su: same at Monday
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury, properly
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - on pause
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - on pause
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! She is doing well now, climbing twice per week bouldering and leading, back to building fitness.
MTG:
- lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016 (orpierre, ceuse, buox, siruana, lleida, costa blanca, el chorro)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april t-1month!!
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)
> Robin Brooke: definitely making the most of those non-injured muscles! More of the same this week? How's the shoulder?
Woooaahhh! That pysche video, I have zero mixed climbing experience, nor soloing, but watching it feels like the risk levels are dialled fairly high.
Rehab week 4 (training on pause) more of the same this week, continuing the winding path of rehab, and choosing to take it very cautiously as medium (rather than short) term is my priority. Physio seems happy, I can climb without pain, but taking it really easy, no real training workload yet, other than some core + theraband + new rotator cuff strengthening. Still feel discomfort in the shoulder during the day but it has been reducing. No real idea how long it 'normally' takes to go completely (yes I am choosing to believe it will go completely!), and the Physio is hard to pin down on timetable, is this the problem with paying by the hour...
M: Shoulder strengthening routine (theraband plus light weighted rotations plus single arm wall press-ups) plus forearm pronation and Supination preventative routine, plus 200 sit-ups, 200 squats, 50 chest raises, 75 leg raises, 3min front plank, bridge and stretches
T: same at Monday
W: same at Monday
Th: light climbing session with partner. 10 lead routes upto 6c max.
F: same at Monday
S: light boulder session (max V3) ~2 hours
Su: same at Monday
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury, properly
- stick to 16 week periodized training plan - on pause
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - on pause
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury asap! She is doing well now, climbing twice per week bouldering and leading, back to building fitness.
MTG:
- lots of 7a & 7a+ RP, and get on and try 7b outdoor in 2016 (orpierre, ceuse, buox, siruana, lleida, costa blanca, el chorro)
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks (orco, mello, annot, chamonix, grimsel, verdon, dolomites)
- leave job, leave country, climb lots starting april t-1month!!
BHAG's
Some current ambitions for future epics, which are a way off in terms of ability, endurance, courage, fitness, but I'd love to get there one day.
- La Fete des Nerfs, 300m, 7a+
- Mescalito, Paroi Rouge, 250m, 7c
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (probably following someone better than me!)
1
In reply to alexm198:
M: Rest
T: Depot, tried circuits I think
W: Yoga
T: Yoga
F: Slate, got on Manatese. Got through bottom (apparently the crux) ok. Got comfortably on the crack above but didn't like the idea of the wafer thin flake for gear and lay backing so came down then seconded my mate up it. Turns out to have a hard move at the top but that's above a bolt. Pleased to have got on a trad route for the first time in a year and first trad route over E2 I've got on for a few years.
S: Depot, circuits and a couple of hard (for me) moves but didn't top the problems out.
S: Sat in car waiting for AA
Had a lot of skin pain this week so won't do anything after Malham tomorrow until my first day in Spain on Friday
M: Rest
T: Depot, tried circuits I think
W: Yoga
T: Yoga
F: Slate, got on Manatese. Got through bottom (apparently the crux) ok. Got comfortably on the crack above but didn't like the idea of the wafer thin flake for gear and lay backing so came down then seconded my mate up it. Turns out to have a hard move at the top but that's above a bolt. Pleased to have got on a trad route for the first time in a year and first trad route over E2 I've got on for a few years.
S: Depot, circuits and a couple of hard (for me) moves but didn't top the problems out.
S: Sat in car waiting for AA
Had a lot of skin pain this week so won't do anything after Malham tomorrow until my first day in Spain on Friday
1
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Yeah the video's pretty intense eh? I always thought for someone soloing he doesn't look as 'in-control' as you'd want to be, especially on the exit with the hand jam! He looks utterly gripped!
Yeah the video's pretty intense eh? I always thought for someone soloing he doesn't look as 'in-control' as you'd want to be, especially on the exit with the hand jam! He looks utterly gripped!
In reply to alexm198:
We fly back this Friday (friends wedding on the Saturday).
Last climbing day in Bishop is Tuesday so might do a trip summary then although I might wait until next week's thread as we are potentially doing a half day or so more bouldering around Vegas too before flying out.
> AJM: Awesome, would love to get over to the states some time. When are you back?
We fly back this Friday (friends wedding on the Saturday).
Last climbing day in Bishop is Tuesday so might do a trip summary then although I might wait until next week's thread as we are potentially doing a half day or so more bouldering around Vegas too before flying out.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex,
It's been a fairly normal training week for me. I've had various other commitments recently so pleased to get most of what I had planned. I let my training be a bit less structured this week as I wanted to have some fun bouldering sessions.
Mon - Fingerboard maximum hangs. Pretty pleased with this session and seem to be making some tiny progress. At least I can hold some of the hangs for marginally longer. I can't reduce the weight from the counter balance though.
Tue - General bouldering followed by circuits short rest. The bouldering was really fun and I did a lot of the new V4-5 circuit. The circuits were terrible!
Wed - rest
Thurs - Double 7a laps. I had set myself the goal of getting a perfect session of these before Easter. My first set went wrong as a heel slipped on the second lap. Perhaps this removed the pressure because I managed to complete all 5 of the other sets. I didn't get the perfect session, but I'm really pleased with my improvements here. It also feels like a significant game change. I've no idea if the 7a circuits are really like climbing a 7a route, but doing 12 laps of 7a in about 1h 30 feels like a significant increase in fitness.
Fri - Poor session. It was only 12h after yesterdays efforts. I tried linking some boulder moves into the hard circuit. I had to battle my way through the parts of the 7c that I wanted to climb and could never recover enough to give a decent effort on the boulder problems. Not too worried, and there is certainly a significant room for improvement. Followed this by core. I didn't film the lever lifts but they felt like I managed good form for the first ones.
Sat - Rest
Sun - General bouldering trying some of the remaining V4-V5 circuit. I got a couple more but there are still some that are alluding me. Followed by continuous climbing and weighted pull ups.
Next week will be a taper and I'm off to Font at the weekend. It's really hard to put goals on Font as it's a family trip, but I should be there for 6 days and I'd like to try and get 6x 7A's. I've been working fitness over strength so I don't know if this is a realistic goal or not. After Font the plan is to ease off on the training and get stuck into limestone sport. I hope to make a couple of quickish ticks in the 7b/7c range before setting out on the long process of redpointing my first 8a.
Thanks Alex,
It's been a fairly normal training week for me. I've had various other commitments recently so pleased to get most of what I had planned. I let my training be a bit less structured this week as I wanted to have some fun bouldering sessions.
Mon - Fingerboard maximum hangs. Pretty pleased with this session and seem to be making some tiny progress. At least I can hold some of the hangs for marginally longer. I can't reduce the weight from the counter balance though.
Tue - General bouldering followed by circuits short rest. The bouldering was really fun and I did a lot of the new V4-5 circuit. The circuits were terrible!
Wed - rest
Thurs - Double 7a laps. I had set myself the goal of getting a perfect session of these before Easter. My first set went wrong as a heel slipped on the second lap. Perhaps this removed the pressure because I managed to complete all 5 of the other sets. I didn't get the perfect session, but I'm really pleased with my improvements here. It also feels like a significant game change. I've no idea if the 7a circuits are really like climbing a 7a route, but doing 12 laps of 7a in about 1h 30 feels like a significant increase in fitness.
Fri - Poor session. It was only 12h after yesterdays efforts. I tried linking some boulder moves into the hard circuit. I had to battle my way through the parts of the 7c that I wanted to climb and could never recover enough to give a decent effort on the boulder problems. Not too worried, and there is certainly a significant room for improvement. Followed this by core. I didn't film the lever lifts but they felt like I managed good form for the first ones.
Sat - Rest
Sun - General bouldering trying some of the remaining V4-V5 circuit. I got a couple more but there are still some that are alluding me. Followed by continuous climbing and weighted pull ups.
Next week will be a taper and I'm off to Font at the weekend. It's really hard to put goals on Font as it's a family trip, but I should be there for 6 days and I'd like to try and get 6x 7A's. I've been working fitness over strength so I don't know if this is a realistic goal or not. After Font the plan is to ease off on the training and get stuck into limestone sport. I hope to make a couple of quickish ticks in the 7b/7c range before setting out on the long process of redpointing my first 8a.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers for starting Alex. Yeah, I hadn't really considered rain! I think we got pretty bad luck, but at least got some climbing out of it. The knee isn't getting any worse, but isn't getting any better either. Resolution to see a physio ASAP.
M - Last (half) day at Margalef, went to a South-facing, roadside sector. Flashed the 7a, had a go at the 7a+ (boulder start, womble up the slab). Just got down from stripping it and it started tipping down. No RP attempt. Flight home cancelled - 'bonus' day at Barcelona airport :s
T - Nothing (but we did make it back to Bristol)
W - Rest
T - Fingerboard. (Wow, it really takes very little time to be back to square one on this.) Core.
F - Attempted a run but knee didn't feel quite right. Probably going to give this a bit more rest. Hung off the fingerboard a bit more.
S - Redpoint. Flashed a 7a on the comp wall (really like that wall!). Got on ok with the 7b there too, but the knee still didn't feel quite right. Probably not worth risking further damage for indoor sessions at least until I've chatted with a physio.
S - Core. Short session, but I wanted to do something!
Some offset pull-ups in today's core session further highlighted the imbalances in my shoulders. I'm WAY stronger with L hand higher, to the extent that it feels like I'm trying to take most of the weight on the L arm even when it's lower. It's not that surprising given that I injured the R bicep (quite badly) almost 4 years ago. But I'd expect it to be less pronounced given that I'm right handed and the muscles in my back are a lot more developed on the right (noticeable visible difference).
STG
See a physio about the knee ASAP. Chatted to my Dad (a GP) already, so have a decent idea what's going on.
Book a summer trip. South of France currently the leading candidate
Make some lasting gains on the finger strength. Whenever I see improvements on the fingerboard, they seem pretty transient. Maybe if I'm not going to the wall as much for the next few weeks (knee) I'll be more motivated to hang on this.
MTG
spring: keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ... Pembroke trip pencilled in for 2 weeks time.
Sub-90 half marathon (Bristol half, September). Benchmark 10k (sub-40 in Bristol 10k, May). Not looking good for the 10k. Just under 7 weeks out and I've put the running on hold while I sort out a knee injury.
LTG
varied E5 onsights
Get out to Orkney with The Fox
Snowdonia marathon I'll be up at midnight next New Year!
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell: bad luck with the weather - hadn't even occurred to me that rain was a thing in Spain. Sorry to hear about the knee - how's it developing?
Cheers for starting Alex. Yeah, I hadn't really considered rain! I think we got pretty bad luck, but at least got some climbing out of it. The knee isn't getting any worse, but isn't getting any better either. Resolution to see a physio ASAP.
M - Last (half) day at Margalef, went to a South-facing, roadside sector. Flashed the 7a, had a go at the 7a+ (boulder start, womble up the slab). Just got down from stripping it and it started tipping down. No RP attempt. Flight home cancelled - 'bonus' day at Barcelona airport :s
T - Nothing (but we did make it back to Bristol)
W - Rest
T - Fingerboard. (Wow, it really takes very little time to be back to square one on this.) Core.
F - Attempted a run but knee didn't feel quite right. Probably going to give this a bit more rest. Hung off the fingerboard a bit more.
S - Redpoint. Flashed a 7a on the comp wall (really like that wall!). Got on ok with the 7b there too, but the knee still didn't feel quite right. Probably not worth risking further damage for indoor sessions at least until I've chatted with a physio.
S - Core. Short session, but I wanted to do something!
Some offset pull-ups in today's core session further highlighted the imbalances in my shoulders. I'm WAY stronger with L hand higher, to the extent that it feels like I'm trying to take most of the weight on the L arm even when it's lower. It's not that surprising given that I injured the R bicep (quite badly) almost 4 years ago. But I'd expect it to be less pronounced given that I'm right handed and the muscles in my back are a lot more developed on the right (noticeable visible difference).
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
1
In reply to alexm198:
thanks for the write-up Alex. I think this is my first non-climbing holiday for about 7 years so it was a bit strange. Did get something done though.
M - tried using a beam in the cottage to do an ancap session. Difficult as chalk was obviously right out but the beam edge had a strange rounded ridged slippy texture. Did my best and felt suitably tired when finished.
T - 6 mile country walk. The healthy affects probably ruined by then having a large chunk of cake.
W - Big Rock Milton Keynes. 15 routes, inc a 7a (3rd go - it had a crazy high heelhook the way I did it) and some tries on another. The grading was a tad weird, and some routes had seriously hard bit before clip2 which seemed a touch strange.
T - nothing much. Went round a massive National Trust house. I'm always surprised just how tiring it is sauntering around places taking in 'culture'.
F - Back to Big Rock. Less routes cos an instructor kicked me off the autobelay when I was trying to finish off with some bulk aerocap so his little newbies could try it. Did get the other 7a - some powerful moves and stinky clips, plus a couple more key heelhooks, so rather pleased.
S - travel home via visiting parents.
S - Tom R core, fingerboard warmup 6/4/6/2 continuous on all holds apart from the tiny crimpers. Then ancap 10/3/4/3 for 8 sets using combinations of bottom row holds. Ring fingers getting v achy but including some split grips in the mix helped. Then hefted some weights as a bit of forearm/shoulder S&C
couple of other things:
1) now have a trip to Waterval-Boven in SA booked for the summer. Very excited indeed as it looks awesome and hopefully should suit my style - flat walls fiddly crimpers.
2) for ages now I've been really nervous before major outdoor redpoint attempts - full-on sick & shaky. In the last month or so, I've also been getting the same for indoor routes. This seems daft - it really doesn't matter if I top a random & transient 7a/b/whatever indoor route on this go, the next go, any go. When I actually leave the ground I'm fine, and I'm not bothered about falling, or of anyone else's opinion if I do fall. So why am I getting nervous?!
thanks for the write-up Alex. I think this is my first non-climbing holiday for about 7 years so it was a bit strange. Did get something done though.
M - tried using a beam in the cottage to do an ancap session. Difficult as chalk was obviously right out but the beam edge had a strange rounded ridged slippy texture. Did my best and felt suitably tired when finished.
T - 6 mile country walk. The healthy affects probably ruined by then having a large chunk of cake.
W - Big Rock Milton Keynes. 15 routes, inc a 7a (3rd go - it had a crazy high heelhook the way I did it) and some tries on another. The grading was a tad weird, and some routes had seriously hard bit before clip2 which seemed a touch strange.
T - nothing much. Went round a massive National Trust house. I'm always surprised just how tiring it is sauntering around places taking in 'culture'.
F - Back to Big Rock. Less routes cos an instructor kicked me off the autobelay when I was trying to finish off with some bulk aerocap so his little newbies could try it. Did get the other 7a - some powerful moves and stinky clips, plus a couple more key heelhooks, so rather pleased.
S - travel home via visiting parents.
S - Tom R core, fingerboard warmup 6/4/6/2 continuous on all holds apart from the tiny crimpers. Then ancap 10/3/4/3 for 8 sets using combinations of bottom row holds. Ring fingers getting v achy but including some split grips in the mix helped. Then hefted some weights as a bit of forearm/shoulder S&C
couple of other things:
1) now have a trip to Waterval-Boven in SA booked for the summer. Very excited indeed as it looks awesome and hopefully should suit my style - flat walls fiddly crimpers.
2) for ages now I've been really nervous before major outdoor redpoint attempts - full-on sick & shaky. In the last month or so, I've also been getting the same for indoor routes. This seems daft - it really doesn't matter if I top a random & transient 7a/b/whatever indoor route on this go, the next go, any go. When I actually leave the ground I'm fine, and I'm not bothered about falling, or of anyone else's opinion if I do fall. So why am I getting nervous?!
1
In reply to alexm198:
I did, just a few routes at Stanage to blow off the cobwebs.
Transition Week 3/8
Mon - Rest
Tue - ARC at AW Stockport. 31 minutes, 2 routes 5+ and 6a up and down. 2 laps of 20 mins next time?
Wed - Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up. 2 circuits of
Turkish Getup. 5 each side with 6kg.
8 Wide grip pullup (-10kg)
Box step (30kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
10 raised leg push up
6 Leg Raise
Thu - Depot Manchester. A few problems on the blue circuit. 4 laps on the circuit board w/3 mins rest (6a+,6a,6a,6a)
Fri - A few routes at Stanage, including Heather Wall (VS 4c) and Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b)
Sat - Trail run 17.61km/791m
Sun - Routes at AW Sheffield up to 6b. Trail run9.24km/140m.
Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up. 2 circuits of
Turkish Getup. 5 each side with 6kg.
8 Wide grip pullup (-5kg)
Lunge with Barbell (30kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
10 raised leg push up
6 Leg Raise
STG
Last weeks goals -
Complete the 6A+ routes I didn't finish today or do 4 trad routes at VS or above ( depending on weather ).
2 VS routes done. Completed PW's 6A+, but Alex Fry's had been reset!
Do 4 hours aerobic training (Z1, including 25mins Z2)
Done!
Add a circuit to strength and conditioning sessions
Done!
Add one more core session to the week. Probably post-climb.
Missed this one.
Next week's goals:
* Aerobic - 4.5 hours Z1 including 25 mins Z2
* Strength and conditioning - keep at 2 circuits but increase resistance
* Bouldering - scratch the PE training - leave this till later in the season, and focus on just doing problems. I think I will get more benefit from this at this stage
* Complete 1 6b and 1 6b+ for indoor routes pyramid
* 6 routes at VS ( weather permitting ).
* Add a core session
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> Planetmarshall: manage to get out on the rock this week?
I did, just a few routes at Stanage to blow off the cobwebs.
Transition Week 3/8
Mon - Rest
Tue - ARC at AW Stockport. 31 minutes, 2 routes 5+ and 6a up and down. 2 laps of 20 mins next time?
Wed - Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up. 2 circuits of
Turkish Getup. 5 each side with 6kg.
8 Wide grip pullup (-10kg)
Box step (30kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
10 raised leg push up
6 Leg Raise
Thu - Depot Manchester. A few problems on the blue circuit. 4 laps on the circuit board w/3 mins rest (6a+,6a,6a,6a)
Fri - A few routes at Stanage, including Heather Wall (VS 4c) and Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b)
Sat - Trail run 17.61km/791m
Sun - Routes at AW Sheffield up to 6b. Trail run9.24km/140m.
Strength and Conditioning -
Core Warm up. 2 circuits of
Turkish Getup. 5 each side with 6kg.
8 Wide grip pullup (-5kg)
Lunge with Barbell (30kg) 5 each leg
8 Ring Dips
8 Overhead squat (30kg)
10 raised leg push up
6 Leg Raise
STG
Last weeks goals -
Complete the 6A+ routes I didn't finish today or do 4 trad routes at VS or above ( depending on weather ).
2 VS routes done. Completed PW's 6A+, but Alex Fry's had been reset!
Do 4 hours aerobic training (Z1, including 25mins Z2)
Done!
Add a circuit to strength and conditioning sessions
Done!
Add one more core session to the week. Probably post-climb.
Missed this one.
Next week's goals:
* Aerobic - 4.5 hours Z1 including 25 mins Z2
* Strength and conditioning - keep at 2 circuits but increase resistance
* Bouldering - scratch the PE training - leave this till later in the season, and focus on just doing problems. I think I will get more benefit from this at this stage
* Complete 1 6b and 1 6b+ for indoor routes pyramid
* 6 routes at VS ( weather permitting ).
* Add a core session
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 21:06
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the thread Alex. I'm still not great but significantly better than I was in the week!
Mon - did nothing except sort stuff over the phone and cough. Fitbit recorded 3.75+ hours fat burning and nearly half an hour of cardio! Weirdly fitbit whilst not being well is really interesting, you can see my resting heart rate rise and my sleep turn into chaos - that's aside from the coughing workouts!
Tues - as above!
Weds - slept tues night for 6 hrs so felt euphoric but also realised I was proper unwell and got checked out - chest infection.
Thurs - felt a little better
Fri- Went climbing!!! Dosed up and stayed very lazy, just really, really needed to be vertical. I was on my own so noticed not feeling great more. The reality didn't really play out like it had in my mind's eye.
Sat - bouldered a bit whilst daughter had NICAS, emphasis on 'a bit'. Did a couple of decent problems though, just took ages to get ready for another climb.
Sun - Went to finish WBL problems as it was my last chance and I'd only tried about 13 of them due to being ill last Sunday. Don't think I climbed very well and scored my low score so it'll be docked anyway. I did do a woody afterwards that I felt I actually climbed well and was chuffed. Also saw a young lad who's dead keen and uber polite so it was nice to give a bit of encouragement as he's obviously worked hard and improved. Nice social time.
Sun pm - climbed at notts, well I say climbed, all I did was about 6/7 roped routes and a dozen boulder problems, mostly belayed and chattered.
I think it's been about 18 months since I went this many days without running. I'm still wheezy/coughing and getting out of breath so can't see me tackling the hills round here for a bit. It's also costing me in diesel as there's only the school run without silly bloody hills everywhere so my bike's just catching dust! I'm out of sight better than last week but still feeling a bit sulky as I don't get more than brief colds and (errr well maybe) and haven't been used to having my duck knocked off!
Thanks for the thread Alex. I'm still not great but significantly better than I was in the week!
Mon - did nothing except sort stuff over the phone and cough. Fitbit recorded 3.75+ hours fat burning and nearly half an hour of cardio! Weirdly fitbit whilst not being well is really interesting, you can see my resting heart rate rise and my sleep turn into chaos - that's aside from the coughing workouts!
Tues - as above!
Weds - slept tues night for 6 hrs so felt euphoric but also realised I was proper unwell and got checked out - chest infection.
Thurs - felt a little better
Fri- Went climbing!!! Dosed up and stayed very lazy, just really, really needed to be vertical. I was on my own so noticed not feeling great more. The reality didn't really play out like it had in my mind's eye.
Sat - bouldered a bit whilst daughter had NICAS, emphasis on 'a bit'. Did a couple of decent problems though, just took ages to get ready for another climb.
Sun - Went to finish WBL problems as it was my last chance and I'd only tried about 13 of them due to being ill last Sunday. Don't think I climbed very well and scored my low score so it'll be docked anyway. I did do a woody afterwards that I felt I actually climbed well and was chuffed. Also saw a young lad who's dead keen and uber polite so it was nice to give a bit of encouragement as he's obviously worked hard and improved. Nice social time.
Sun pm - climbed at notts, well I say climbed, all I did was about 6/7 roped routes and a dozen boulder problems, mostly belayed and chattered.
I think it's been about 18 months since I went this many days without running. I'm still wheezy/coughing and getting out of breath so can't see me tackling the hills round here for a bit. It's also costing me in diesel as there's only the school run without silly bloody hills everywhere so my bike's just catching dust! I'm out of sight better than last week but still feeling a bit sulky as I don't get more than brief colds and (errr well maybe) and haven't been used to having my duck knocked off!
1
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks, Alex. There is very little scientific influencing my alpine training. Just from what I have assimilated about training I have decided to:
a) Do as much aerobic activity as I can fit in, trying to work at a fairly comfortable pace in order to try and promote fat burning. Not using a heart rate monitor as I don't get on with them, but I think I can tell roughly which heart rate zone I'm in. I haven't been reporting back on times or speeds as a result - cycling speeds are deliberately lower. Running speeds have improved but that is because, previous to Christmas, I hadn't been running at all in the past four years
b) Do hilly routes - improve leg strength and endurance.
c) Don't do just one sport. I feel that the more different sports that I can do, the less susceptible I am to injury, and the more muscle groups I am working. I think the cycling helps to stabilise my knees and provides a low impact alternative to the running.
Last week:
TUES - RUN - 10.5km - 290m ascent
FRI - CLIMB - Bouldering at Bloc
SAT - CYCLE - 112km - 1330m ascent
The cycle was truly horrific!! Bath to Bournemouth into a constant headwind and rain. Should have gone with better waterproofs - hands were incapable of changing gear towards the end.
Monthly targets:
Running 1179m ascent/1500m - will probably just be able to do this in the last few days
Cycling 1846m/4500m - Very little chance of hitting this one!
Targets increase next month.
Weight - still fluctuating between 12st3 and 12st6. Should be able to have a good week though.
Thanks, Alex. There is very little scientific influencing my alpine training. Just from what I have assimilated about training I have decided to:
a) Do as much aerobic activity as I can fit in, trying to work at a fairly comfortable pace in order to try and promote fat burning. Not using a heart rate monitor as I don't get on with them, but I think I can tell roughly which heart rate zone I'm in. I haven't been reporting back on times or speeds as a result - cycling speeds are deliberately lower. Running speeds have improved but that is because, previous to Christmas, I hadn't been running at all in the past four years
b) Do hilly routes - improve leg strength and endurance.
c) Don't do just one sport. I feel that the more different sports that I can do, the less susceptible I am to injury, and the more muscle groups I am working. I think the cycling helps to stabilise my knees and provides a low impact alternative to the running.
Last week:
TUES - RUN - 10.5km - 290m ascent
FRI - CLIMB - Bouldering at Bloc
SAT - CYCLE - 112km - 1330m ascent
The cycle was truly horrific!! Bath to Bournemouth into a constant headwind and rain. Should have gone with better waterproofs - hands were incapable of changing gear towards the end.
Monthly targets:
Running 1179m ascent/1500m - will probably just be able to do this in the last few days
Cycling 1846m/4500m - Very little chance of hitting this one!
Targets increase next month.
Weight - still fluctuating between 12st3 and 12st6. Should be able to have a good week though.
Post edited at 18:48
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex, quick one from me as I'm on my phone in Margalef, taper week was quite chilled, no last minute disasters before the holiday.
M:
T: boulder central; good session just mooching around, stopped before I was knackered. Flashed up to v4 and got v5 and v6 with a couple of goes, further proof that my little local gym (where I can't figure half the v4's) is set stiff.
W:
T:
F: wanted to do something cardio based, considered a ride or my cardio circuit, then remembered I have a boulder shed! 2x30 min circuits went well but I managed to put two massive blisters on my palm, idiot.
S: Travel to Spain, weather is beautiful!
S: went to l'obac del roger, a little group of 4 crags, did a bunch of 5's and a 6b then took 2 goes to get a 6c Mas Vale Ser Freky Que Maricón de Playa (6c+) it felt absolutely nails! I was slightly consoled by a friend taking 3 goes to tick the 7a+ next to it, a grade he would usually expect to onsight, but even when you take the different style into account, I've decided I'm massively out of shape. I might have to rethink my target of 10 7 graded climbs, but we will see how things go. Will do a more complete update in 2 weeks!
> Dandan82: how was the pre-trip taper week? What's on the ticklist for Margalef?
Cheers Alex, quick one from me as I'm on my phone in Margalef, taper week was quite chilled, no last minute disasters before the holiday.
M:
T: boulder central; good session just mooching around, stopped before I was knackered. Flashed up to v4 and got v5 and v6 with a couple of goes, further proof that my little local gym (where I can't figure half the v4's) is set stiff.
W:
T:
F: wanted to do something cardio based, considered a ride or my cardio circuit, then remembered I have a boulder shed! 2x30 min circuits went well but I managed to put two massive blisters on my palm, idiot.
S: Travel to Spain, weather is beautiful!
S: went to l'obac del roger, a little group of 4 crags, did a bunch of 5's and a 6b then took 2 goes to get a 6c Mas Vale Ser Freky Que Maricón de Playa (6c+) it felt absolutely nails! I was slightly consoled by a friend taking 3 goes to tick the 7a+ next to it, a grade he would usually expect to onsight, but even when you take the different style into account, I've decided I'm massively out of shape. I might have to rethink my target of 10 7 graded climbs, but we will see how things go. Will do a more complete update in 2 weeks!
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. I love the psyche vid. Tho I think ice climbing is something that I'll probably experience from the comfort of a sofa from now on. You're doing a great job on the stats.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 12st 13lbs STS
M - 1 hour garden clearing
T - 1 hour garden clearing
W - 1 hour garden clearing
T - Rest
F - 10 hours doing fencing
S - 3 hours doing fencing
S - 10 hours doing fencing
No climbing or other 'exercise' this week. But I've spent hours lifting and carrying large rocks, piles of wood and other fun stuff. Well I do vaguely find it fun. But I am feeling pretty stuffed now. I had a part of the garden which isn't in the main garden and backs on to a lane, so it's had a fair bit of fly-tipping over the years. That took a day or so to clear. Then started on the fencing. On Friday I only got two posts up and not much else. Saturday was quite wet, so didn't get much done. Made much better progress on Sunday and then today. I didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. But now the clocks are forward I'm hoping to get a bit more done during the week in the evening. It's not that far off being finished. 14 meters in total and quite a few corners.
I guess the main and only goal (having others leads to a dilution of focus I've found) this year, is to climb 7a, specifically the local classic Western Front Direct (7a). It suits my style and I shouldn't find it too hard to get partners for it. While I've not being doing any specific training, I'm still climbing 6b ok. Also I've been able to do a fair amount of volume thanks to the auto belays. Along with that I've been doing a lot of footwork practice on these easier climbs. It's actually changed how I climb quite a bit. I spend just as much time looking at my feet as I do looking at my hands.
Thanks Alex. I love the psyche vid. Tho I think ice climbing is something that I'll probably experience from the comfort of a sofa from now on. You're doing a great job on the stats.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 12st 13lbs STS
M - 1 hour garden clearing
T - 1 hour garden clearing
W - 1 hour garden clearing
T - Rest
F - 10 hours doing fencing
S - 3 hours doing fencing
S - 10 hours doing fencing
No climbing or other 'exercise' this week. But I've spent hours lifting and carrying large rocks, piles of wood and other fun stuff. Well I do vaguely find it fun. But I am feeling pretty stuffed now. I had a part of the garden which isn't in the main garden and backs on to a lane, so it's had a fair bit of fly-tipping over the years. That took a day or so to clear. Then started on the fencing. On Friday I only got two posts up and not much else. Saturday was quite wet, so didn't get much done. Made much better progress on Sunday and then today. I didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. But now the clocks are forward I'm hoping to get a bit more done during the week in the evening. It's not that far off being finished. 14 meters in total and quite a few corners.
I guess the main and only goal (having others leads to a dilution of focus I've found) this year, is to climb 7a, specifically the local classic Western Front Direct (7a). It suits my style and I shouldn't find it too hard to get partners for it. While I've not being doing any specific training, I'm still climbing 6b ok. Also I've been able to do a fair amount of volume thanks to the auto belays. Along with that I've been doing a lot of footwork practice on these easier climbs. It's actually changed how I climb quite a bit. I spend just as much time looking at my feet as I do looking at my hands.
1
In reply to alexm198:
This week in pictures - back on rock (ish) in cast. I never thought I'd be so proud of V3 in overlapping sections! https://www.dropbox.com/s/5zq74qzmyd4a4ss/Photo%2025-03-2016%2C%2013%2037%2...
This week in pictures - back on rock (ish) in cast. I never thought I'd be so proud of V3 in overlapping sections! https://www.dropbox.com/s/5zq74qzmyd4a4ss/Photo%2025-03-2016%2C%2013%2037%2...
4
In reply to alexm198:
Looks like my attempts at posting via dodgy chalet wifi failed last week, so here's a double update after a super weeks skiing. So glad my first holiday with the lady went well and that we ski at virtually the same level (I'm a bit bolder for off-piste and trying jumps; she's technically superior and much smoother, especially on moguls).
March retro-analysis:
Survive epic work & travel load - done - took its toll with catching multiple bugs and putting on some weight
Don't screw the shoulder any more - sore but functioning - go easy on the rings f*cktard!
2x week an-cap work-outs - maintain for April
LW reverse (and back again?) - FAIL - came close - keep on the list
Complete Cave newbie from Broken Heart (f8a+?) - FAIL - didn't even attempt - but this was probably good for the perennially injured L ring finger
Finish bolting and try the moves on the easier Malham potential project - work in progress
April goals:
Edit video of skiing
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness - start yoga class with the lady
Rehab strange finger tweak - hurts closing car doors, but not crimping
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven)
LW reverse (and back again?)
RP the easier Malham potential project
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey
Week 11:
M - Hotel gym. Cardio and weights with some competitive core thrown in for good measure.
T - Shoulder bit sore. Sat on bum all day and then topped it off with a glutinous burger
W - Sat on bum all day and then topped it off with a walk round Amsterdam and a greasy airport chicken satay
T - 7 hours driving to/from Cambridge for PhD meeting; topped it off with the least indulgent dinner of the week (bowl of cereal) and an early night
F - Rings to warm-up, then an-cap/aero-cap split session. 11 sets of 4 reps 10:3@65%; then 15x 1on/1off@60%. Core finished me off.
S - Travelling - ab DOMS
S - First day back on skis in 3 years (still ab DOMS!)
Week 12:
M - Blue bird skiing
T - 45 miles skiing!
W - Felt grotty - bug going around the chalet, but no great loss as the weather was a bit poo anyway
T - Off piste day
F - 2/3rd day skiing and prating about with a GoPro. Boozy lunch and tentative ski back to the chalet in flat light
S - 12 hour journey home - think I could have driven it in a similar amount of time
S - Warm-up, then 8 sets 1on/1off aero-cap FOC before breakfast. Big family meal with the lady including Easter egg hunt
Looks like my attempts at posting via dodgy chalet wifi failed last week, so here's a double update after a super weeks skiing. So glad my first holiday with the lady went well and that we ski at virtually the same level (I'm a bit bolder for off-piste and trying jumps; she's technically superior and much smoother, especially on moguls).
March retro-analysis:
Survive epic work & travel load - done - took its toll with catching multiple bugs and putting on some weight
Don't screw the shoulder any more - sore but functioning - go easy on the rings f*cktard!
2x week an-cap work-outs - maintain for April
LW reverse (and back again?) - FAIL - came close - keep on the list
Complete Cave newbie from Broken Heart (f8a+?) - FAIL - didn't even attempt - but this was probably good for the perennially injured L ring finger
Finish bolting and try the moves on the easier Malham potential project - work in progress
April goals:
Edit video of skiing
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness - start yoga class with the lady
Rehab strange finger tweak - hurts closing car doors, but not crimping
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven)
LW reverse (and back again?)
RP the easier Malham potential project
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey
Week 11:
M - Hotel gym. Cardio and weights with some competitive core thrown in for good measure.
T - Shoulder bit sore. Sat on bum all day and then topped it off with a glutinous burger
W - Sat on bum all day and then topped it off with a walk round Amsterdam and a greasy airport chicken satay
T - 7 hours driving to/from Cambridge for PhD meeting; topped it off with the least indulgent dinner of the week (bowl of cereal) and an early night
F - Rings to warm-up, then an-cap/aero-cap split session. 11 sets of 4 reps 10:3@65%; then 15x 1on/1off@60%. Core finished me off.
S - Travelling - ab DOMS
S - First day back on skis in 3 years (still ab DOMS!)
Week 12:
M - Blue bird skiing
T - 45 miles skiing!
W - Felt grotty - bug going around the chalet, but no great loss as the weather was a bit poo anyway
T - Off piste day
F - 2/3rd day skiing and prating about with a GoPro. Boozy lunch and tentative ski back to the chalet in flat light
S - 12 hour journey home - think I could have driven it in a similar amount of time
S - Warm-up, then 8 sets 1on/1off aero-cap FOC before breakfast. Big family meal with the lady including Easter egg hunt
Post edited at 09:37
3
In reply to alexm198:
I'm on the road to recovery, just need to regain my stamina.
In Peru the plan is for a couple of weeks trekking taking in Urus and Ishinka, then it's a bit more vague but would like to try Chopicalqui and maybe Pisco or Yanapaccha. I'm out there for a month in total.
Last week:
m - 2 hours of drills, plyometrics, core and circuits
t - 10.25k off road run at 6:19 min/km
w - nothing
t - 10.5 off road run 6:31 min/km
f - 3km run
s - too much to drink
s - hangover
Weight 81.7kg, body fat 19.7%
Bunny Run in Howarth tonight, need to get a longer run in on Thursday and then a couple of days rest for the Baildon Boundary Way on Sunday.
> hokkyokusei: finally, a rest week! feeling better at all? Peru sounds cool, what are your objectives?
I'm on the road to recovery, just need to regain my stamina.
In Peru the plan is for a couple of weeks trekking taking in Urus and Ishinka, then it's a bit more vague but would like to try Chopicalqui and maybe Pisco or Yanapaccha. I'm out there for a month in total.
Last week:
m - 2 hours of drills, plyometrics, core and circuits
t - 10.25k off road run at 6:19 min/km
w - nothing
t - 10.5 off road run 6:31 min/km
f - 3km run
s - too much to drink
s - hangover
Weight 81.7kg, body fat 19.7%
Bunny Run in Howarth tonight, need to get a longer run in on Thursday and then a couple of days rest for the Baildon Boundary Way on Sunday.
In reply to alexm198:
Hi all
PREVIOUS MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK) - FAILED
NEW MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Double week for me although w/c 14th March did little apart from a bit of yoga as busy at work. Then had 10 days in Orpierre. 2 days travel and 2 days rest so climbed 6 of those. 1 day in Sisteron (nice and striking slabby fin features) and 5 in Orpierre. Liked Orpierre overall although found it a bit lacking in the 6b-7b single pitch range, not completely lacking but not that many venues with this. In general though found the route quality very good and the grades fitting the tough south of france cliché, most things felt at least a + harder than graded. Polish didn't seem a problem above 6a.
Didn’t manage to do my 7a+ but did do a couple of 6c+ (1 onsight). Got close on a 7a Evitons d'Importuner l'Étrangleur (7a) but fell on the last hard move 3rd go. Had a couple of goes on a 40m 7a+ (which felt harder than the 7b I did in Kalymnos) called Je Vous Salue Marie (7a+) which would have gone in another days work I think but never got back there.
Overall reflections were;
- not as strong as I would have liked but more or less at 7a (ish) in a day level which isn't too bad
- need to give up looking to RP on trips as rest of the group would prefer to OS.
- elbows and tupperware affected finger seemed OK touch wood
So overall a good trip even if I didn't manage the 7a+.
In the interim I've had my training plan following my assessment which starts next week. Looking at it I'm slightly scared as it looks considerably harder than I've tried in the past! Something 6 days a week, albeit half or so are general fitness rather than climbing specific, and a couple of hours each day. Will give it a go, listen to the body and try not to get injured.
Hi all
PREVIOUS MTG = 7a+ by end of Easter France trip (either France or UK) - FAILED
NEW MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Double week for me although w/c 14th March did little apart from a bit of yoga as busy at work. Then had 10 days in Orpierre. 2 days travel and 2 days rest so climbed 6 of those. 1 day in Sisteron (nice and striking slabby fin features) and 5 in Orpierre. Liked Orpierre overall although found it a bit lacking in the 6b-7b single pitch range, not completely lacking but not that many venues with this. In general though found the route quality very good and the grades fitting the tough south of france cliché, most things felt at least a + harder than graded. Polish didn't seem a problem above 6a.
Didn’t manage to do my 7a+ but did do a couple of 6c+ (1 onsight). Got close on a 7a Evitons d'Importuner l'Étrangleur (7a) but fell on the last hard move 3rd go. Had a couple of goes on a 40m 7a+ (which felt harder than the 7b I did in Kalymnos) called Je Vous Salue Marie (7a+) which would have gone in another days work I think but never got back there.
Overall reflections were;
- not as strong as I would have liked but more or less at 7a (ish) in a day level which isn't too bad
- need to give up looking to RP on trips as rest of the group would prefer to OS.
- elbows and tupperware affected finger seemed OK touch wood
So overall a good trip even if I didn't manage the 7a+.
In the interim I've had my training plan following my assessment which starts next week. Looking at it I'm slightly scared as it looks considerably harder than I've tried in the past! Something 6 days a week, albeit half or so are general fitness rather than climbing specific, and a couple of hours each day. Will give it a go, listen to the body and try not to get injured.
1
In reply to alexm198: to be honest student life isn't as relaxing as I'd hoped! I've got 9-3 or 9-5 most days with a lot work to fit in around that so it's been a struggle recently - luckily I'm on Easter break at the moment! So this is a hopefully not too lengthy trip report from a week in Spain.
Mon - flew out and arrived at the Rifugio at 1.30am
Tue - went to Collegats, Sector Perdrera, which had an exciting tyrolean across a river. Warmed up and then onsighted 6c, 7a, 7b, 7b+, all of which were brilliant long just-off-vert sustained stuff. Suited my lack of fitness because I could keep the weight off my arms well.
Wed - Terradets, which was much too hot! Warmed up on a horrific 6b+, then did a (considerably easier) 7a. Did two classics at 7b and 7b+, then didn't manage to onsight a 7c. Super steep and sustained with no rests - forearms just weren't prepared for it! Decided I'd stick to the vert.
Thurs - Camarasa, to escapae the heat. Really cool crag, seems to be off the radar for Brits really. Warmed up on a great 6b+, then onsighted a couple of really cool 7b+s (one got 7c in another guide), and a 7a+. Still had some juice left so I went for an ambitious, low-pressure go at onsighting a 7c+. Put in one of the best efforts of my climbing life in, only to fall tickling the jug below the chains - agonisingly close, needless to say I was a bit gutted, mostly because it was such a brilliant route to have faffed up.
Fri - rest, drove to Riglos.
Sat - was a bit grumpy to be doing multipitch stuff when I could have been trying hard onsights but to be fair the place is amazing. Did Fiesta de los Biceps, 8 pitches from 6b-7a and it is madness - the rock gets steeper and the holds just get bigger and bigger and bigger.
Sun - another, slightly less travelled big route, 7 pitches 6a-7b. I was a bit apprehensive because it supposedly had a 45m 7b pump-fest crux, and I'd never climbed that hard that far above the ground any more. Turned out to be a very relaxed affair despite only having 8 bolts.
Mon - airport day. Thought we'd be having a rushed say at the rather scrappy looking Sector Futbolin at Santa Linya but it turned out to be the most productive day of the trip, onsighting 7a, 7a+, 7b, 7b+ and 7c. The 7c at Futbolin was meant to have a crimpy crux but they were jugs compared to the naff holds you get on peak lime, it had a nice big rest too so felt quite soft. We popped into the cave at Santa Linya proper for a quick route, and even though it was only 12m, the 30deg overhanging, tufa-wrestling 7b+ packed a punch! Just about held on.
So a fairly positive trip really, my onsighting ability and fitness were much better than expected after only bouldering until a week before. I think this is mostly down to picking stuff that wasn't too steep so I could keep the weight off my arms even if the moves were tricky. Ive also been improving my kneebar game massively which helps!
Still a bit gutted about the 7c+ thought, it would've been my first 'proper' 7c+ onsight. But it was good to get a 7c onsight and to have a 100% record on everything below that, which is good consistency for me, particularly on a range of styles at the different crags we went to.
Cheers, Jake
Mon - flew out and arrived at the Rifugio at 1.30am
Tue - went to Collegats, Sector Perdrera, which had an exciting tyrolean across a river. Warmed up and then onsighted 6c, 7a, 7b, 7b+, all of which were brilliant long just-off-vert sustained stuff. Suited my lack of fitness because I could keep the weight off my arms well.
Wed - Terradets, which was much too hot! Warmed up on a horrific 6b+, then did a (considerably easier) 7a. Did two classics at 7b and 7b+, then didn't manage to onsight a 7c. Super steep and sustained with no rests - forearms just weren't prepared for it! Decided I'd stick to the vert.
Thurs - Camarasa, to escapae the heat. Really cool crag, seems to be off the radar for Brits really. Warmed up on a great 6b+, then onsighted a couple of really cool 7b+s (one got 7c in another guide), and a 7a+. Still had some juice left so I went for an ambitious, low-pressure go at onsighting a 7c+. Put in one of the best efforts of my climbing life in, only to fall tickling the jug below the chains - agonisingly close, needless to say I was a bit gutted, mostly because it was such a brilliant route to have faffed up.
Fri - rest, drove to Riglos.
Sat - was a bit grumpy to be doing multipitch stuff when I could have been trying hard onsights but to be fair the place is amazing. Did Fiesta de los Biceps, 8 pitches from 6b-7a and it is madness - the rock gets steeper and the holds just get bigger and bigger and bigger.
Sun - another, slightly less travelled big route, 7 pitches 6a-7b. I was a bit apprehensive because it supposedly had a 45m 7b pump-fest crux, and I'd never climbed that hard that far above the ground any more. Turned out to be a very relaxed affair despite only having 8 bolts.
Mon - airport day. Thought we'd be having a rushed say at the rather scrappy looking Sector Futbolin at Santa Linya but it turned out to be the most productive day of the trip, onsighting 7a, 7a+, 7b, 7b+ and 7c. The 7c at Futbolin was meant to have a crimpy crux but they were jugs compared to the naff holds you get on peak lime, it had a nice big rest too so felt quite soft. We popped into the cave at Santa Linya proper for a quick route, and even though it was only 12m, the 30deg overhanging, tufa-wrestling 7b+ packed a punch! Just about held on.
So a fairly positive trip really, my onsighting ability and fitness were much better than expected after only bouldering until a week before. I think this is mostly down to picking stuff that wasn't too steep so I could keep the weight off my arms even if the moves were tricky. Ive also been improving my kneebar game massively which helps!
Still a bit gutted about the 7c+ thought, it would've been my first 'proper' 7c+ onsight. But it was good to get a 7c onsight and to have a 100% record on everything below that, which is good consistency for me, particularly on a range of styles at the different crags we went to.
Cheers, Jake
2
In reply to alexm198: A question for Fitclubbers. If I'm going to Flatanger in June, so two and a half months away, what is my best plan vis-a-vis fitness?
Do I try and maintain what little I've gained in the last couple of weeks by doing the occasional fitness session each week, or just sack it off, focus on getting as strong as possible and then bringing in some fitness stuff a bit nearer the time?
Sorry for not talking in aero/an/cap/pow terms i don't really understand them, but any advice is much appreciated!
Cheers, Jake
Do I try and maintain what little I've gained in the last couple of weeks by doing the occasional fitness session each week, or just sack it off, focus on getting as strong as possible and then bringing in some fitness stuff a bit nearer the time?
Sorry for not talking in aero/an/cap/pow terms i don't really understand them, but any advice is much appreciated!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks mate. Not a good week for weight but I did get some bike-time in. No climbing. I blame my birthday on Thursday plus all that Easter chocolate. Oops! Had a good week of training though. Foot about 95%. Re-arranged last few weight goals.
Mon:
Tue: About 7 miles on road bike including some hard hill intervals. Feeling surprisingly good.
Wed:
Thu: Birthday! Kinder Scout via Nether Red Brook Gully (I) and down via Fairbrook Gully with misses and dog. Good day out. Beer and meal out.
Fri: Early morning 7 miles MTB around Macc Forest including some hard hill intervals. Beer.
Sat: 1hr BJJ private tuition and testing foot. Finished off with light sparring. Beer.
Sun: 13 miles MTB (on road), hill intervals. Some mobility work.
Current weight: 143 lbs.
STGs (still rehabbing foot a bit):
Weight to 140 by 10 April (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 3 Apr / 140: 10 Apr)
Get on a rope and climb anything, lead, second or top rope
Climbing x2 per week
Opposing strength training x2 per week
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year (TICK!) 3 rides this week and entered Mids XC round 2, April 9th.
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b) / Or another Severe (ish)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
Thanks mate. Not a good week for weight but I did get some bike-time in. No climbing. I blame my birthday on Thursday plus all that Easter chocolate. Oops! Had a good week of training though. Foot about 95%. Re-arranged last few weight goals.
Mon:
Tue: About 7 miles on road bike including some hard hill intervals. Feeling surprisingly good.
Wed:
Thu: Birthday! Kinder Scout via Nether Red Brook Gully (I) and down via Fairbrook Gully with misses and dog. Good day out. Beer and meal out.
Fri: Early morning 7 miles MTB around Macc Forest including some hard hill intervals. Beer.
Sat: 1hr BJJ private tuition and testing foot. Finished off with light sparring. Beer.
Sun: 13 miles MTB (on road), hill intervals. Some mobility work.
Current weight: 143 lbs.
STGs (still rehabbing foot a bit):
Weight to 140 by 10 April (146: 13 Mar (TICK!) / 144: 20 Mar (TICK!) / 142: 3 Apr / 140: 10 Apr)
Get on a rope and climb anything, lead, second or top rope
Climbing x2 per week
Opposing strength training x2 per week
Get back on the bike in time to do some XC racing this year (TICK!) 3 rides this week and entered Mids XC round 2, April 9th.
Complete first row on indoor route pyramid
MTGs (before end 2016):
Get on some routes (any trad & sport), lead or second
Complete first row on trad and bouldering pyramids
Too Drunk (f7A)
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Jack's Rake (Grade-1)
Dover's Wall, Route 1 (S 4b) / Or another Severe (ish)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Compete in Mids XC Series
LTGs:
Dover's Wall, Route 4 (VS 4b)
Winter III -- will have to be next season now due to injured foot
SPA, ML, Coaching Award
Mountain bike holiday in Alps
Get back to Font
VLTGs:
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)
BHAGs:
To be comfortable having a go at any sensible mountain route.
Some Alpine stuff.
The Wheel of Life 8C+/9a.
1
In reply to Ian Bell:
Sounds like a productive trip. Out of curiosity, where did you get your assessment and training plan from?
Sounds like a productive trip. Out of curiosity, where did you get your assessment and training plan from?
In reply to TonyB:
it was with this guy
http://robinolearycoaching.com/
I'm going on the Rocup climbing holiday to Kalymnos, which he also runs, so seemed sensible to use him for the assesment etc as well.
it was with this guy
http://robinolearycoaching.com/
I'm going on the Rocup climbing holiday to Kalymnos, which he also runs, so seemed sensible to use him for the assesment etc as well.
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers for starting the thread Alex. Sorry quite a late post for me...
Mon: Fingerboard, max hangs and ancap.
Tues: Boulder.
Wedns: Work work work
Thurs: Ditto work.
Fri: Brean. Crazy 6hr+ drive from London. Clips in Chepito to warm up, did it second go, then had a couple of goes up Tide Rising - not getting anywhere with the crux.
Sat: Fingerboard then a boulder. Good session but really tired pretty quickly.
Sun: Ate expensive chocolate, played Hitman and pretended I would go to the wall in a bit...
Cheers for starting the thread Alex. Sorry quite a late post for me...
Mon: Fingerboard, max hangs and ancap.
Tues: Boulder.
Wedns: Work work work
Thurs: Ditto work.
Fri: Brean. Crazy 6hr+ drive from London. Clips in Chepito to warm up, did it second go, then had a couple of goes up Tide Rising - not getting anywhere with the crux.
Sat: Fingerboard then a boulder. Good session but really tired pretty quickly.
Sun: Ate expensive chocolate, played Hitman and pretended I would go to the wall in a bit...
1
In reply to Ian Bell:
I was curious as I wondered if we had had the same assessment. I did mine through Lattice training. I've really found having a training plan made by a coach has been a huge advantage. Not only is the content way more structured then anything I would have devised, but perhaps the single biggest advantage is that I have stuck to it very closely. I'd made plans myself previously, but never been able to stick with them. Good luck with yours. I had a look at the Rocup holiday website. It looks great.
I was curious as I wondered if we had had the same assessment. I did mine through Lattice training. I've really found having a training plan made by a coach has been a huge advantage. Not only is the content way more structured then anything I would have devised, but perhaps the single biggest advantage is that I have stuck to it very closely. I'd made plans myself previously, but never been able to stick with them. Good luck with yours. I had a look at the Rocup holiday website. It looks great.
1
In reply to TonyB:
yes i'm hoping the combined peer pressure of posting on here / reporting back to coach how it's going will help me keep with it. fingers crossed!
yes i'm hoping the combined peer pressure of posting on here / reporting back to coach how it's going will help me keep with it. fingers crossed!
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing the stats Alex! The nomics definitely had an effect on my swing (more first time hits) but the biggest difference last week was technique wise. My mom (who had never climbed ice before) pointed out my technique was crap. It’s probably due to my first experience with axes was drytooling, so what I did was wack the axe and then in one move stood up, removed lower axe and hit. That caused me to not stand up properly, so my butt was out and I lifted my heels. She said I should stand up first, than remove axe and then swing, which felt much better (and according to her looked better).
M: Running, antagonists and core. My wrist made a clicking sound during pushups and it hurt afterwards.
T: climbing outdoors, taped the wrist and toproped. Did 2 6’s.
W: climbing outdoors, lead 3x5-, 2x4+, 3x5+ and one 4+ trad route.
T: ice climbing, first a 4meter vertical + 3 meter slab, afterwards an 8m pillar. Got the techniquetips as mentioned in the intro. My moms first outing on ice, she absolutely loved it.
F: climbed a 2 pitch trad 4+. My moms first multipitch trad, she didn’t appreciate removing well seated nuts, but when we got down by abseil she forgot about it and liked it.
S: ice climbing, wanted to do a bigger line, but there was no visibility, so stuck to the same 8m pillar as Thursday, felt much steadier techniquewise.
S: 2 hour hiking and one slabby route.
STG: work on this years goals.
Thanks for doing the stats Alex! The nomics definitely had an effect on my swing (more first time hits) but the biggest difference last week was technique wise. My mom (who had never climbed ice before) pointed out my technique was crap. It’s probably due to my first experience with axes was drytooling, so what I did was wack the axe and then in one move stood up, removed lower axe and hit. That caused me to not stand up properly, so my butt was out and I lifted my heels. She said I should stand up first, than remove axe and then swing, which felt much better (and according to her looked better).
M: Running, antagonists and core. My wrist made a clicking sound during pushups and it hurt afterwards.
T: climbing outdoors, taped the wrist and toproped. Did 2 6’s.
W: climbing outdoors, lead 3x5-, 2x4+, 3x5+ and one 4+ trad route.
T: ice climbing, first a 4meter vertical + 3 meter slab, afterwards an 8m pillar. Got the techniquetips as mentioned in the intro. My moms first outing on ice, she absolutely loved it.
F: climbed a 2 pitch trad 4+. My moms first multipitch trad, she didn’t appreciate removing well seated nuts, but when we got down by abseil she forgot about it and liked it.
S: ice climbing, wanted to do a bigger line, but there was no visibility, so stuck to the same 8m pillar as Thursday, felt much steadier techniquewise.
S: 2 hour hiking and one slabby route.
STG: work on this years goals.
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