UKC

Can anyone offer up some info on the mountains in Montenegro? I'm joining a trip with a few mates very last minute, our main objective is to climb the highest mountain, Zla Kolata.

Compared to, say, a trip to Glen Coe information on the mountains in this region is hard to come by. Any info on maps, weather and snow conditions would be very much appreciated!

Cheers.

In reply to Mike Hewitt:
I've been to this area twice. For a start, it's absolutely gorgeous!

I know as of mid-March there was still a fair bit of snow. If you have facebook, you can get a lot of helpful local info from these guys:
https://www.facebook.com/shba-PASHTRIKU-204768552897863/

They are a mountaineering club of Albanians/Kosovans and they go up peaks in that area most weekends. One of their members, this guy--https://www.facebook.com/islom.lama?fref=ts--is a good mountaineer and speaks excellent English and I'm sure will be happy to help if you get in touch with him directly. Tell him Alicia the American climber sent you, and say hello from me!

In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Also, where are you planning on hiking in from, Vusanje? FYI even though it gets a reasonably big dot on the map, Vusanje doesn't have much in the way of supplies--there was a tiny little shed selling snacks and that was about it. Definitely stock up before you get out there.

In reply to alicia:

Thanks for the links, I've messaged your friend on facebook.

Yes, the plan is to drive to Vusanje and walk in from there and probably sleep on the mountain for one night (for the 'fun' of it). Yes, I'll be sure to stock-up early, I was caught short of food walking between Poland and Slovakia one time and I almost collapsed walking out the woods looking for somewhere to buy food.

In reply to Mike Hewitt:

As Alicia says, the area is stunning.

I went up a number of peaks on both sides of the Montenegrin/Albanian border late last summer, when only a few snow patches remained high on Maja Jezerces.
But at this time of year I'd expect there to be a lot of snow remaining.

Zla Kolata is a straightforward ascent with good waymarking.
The summit plateau is surprisingly broad and grassy, so is ideal for a high camp in settled conditions.
Waking up here to see the sun rise over Djeravica (highest mountain in Kosovo) was a memorable experience.
If you've got sufficient time it is worth considering a descent to Valbona (Albania) and coming back by another route (e.g. Maja e Rosit or Maja Jezerces).

However, bear in mind that permits are required to cross the border.
I obtained mine through Zbulo, for the modest charge of 5 euro:
http://zbulo.org/services/peaks-of-the-balkans-permits/
A visit to the border police station in Korita (outskirts of Plav) is needed to verify the Montenegrin permit.
In the end the border post at Vusanje was not in use when I passed, and nobody asked to see my permit; however, personally I wouldn't chance going without.

I would also highly recommend a visit to Grbaja valley, a 5 mile walk/drive from Gusinje.
The valley is beautiful in itself, and has some brilliant peaks to go at (e.g. Karanfili and Ocnjak).
Cheap accommodation is available in either the 'Eko-katuns' or the mountaineering hut.

For food supplies, Gusinje and Plav both have plenty of places to stock up on the basics.
The best map I could find was the easily available Peaks of the Balkans map at 1:60,000, which shows most of the waymarked routes.
The 1:30,000 Vektor maps for Valbona and Thethi (Albania) are great for contours, but not so good for footpaths.
Summitpost is a great source of information for mountain routes.
The Cicerone 'Mountains of Montenegro' guidebook is also helpful, but doesn't really cover the high hills.

In reply to Chirs:


While working in Kosovo not long after their war we strayed into Montenegro one weekend while walking in the snow near the border. Next thing we knew we were surrounded by special forces personnel in full combat gear spread in formation across the hillside, who then frog marched us up the hill to their lookout post, stood us against the outer wall and intimidated us (very effectively!) by lining up in firing squad formation and directing their weapons straight at us. With no common language our only common references were David Beckham, Michael Owen and James Bond, and in the light of the situation we thought it prudent to stick to football talk!

In reply to Chirs:

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On my first trip to the area, my friend and I went to that police station to verify our permits. It was pouring rain and we were two girls standing around in running shorts trying to explain that our plan was to go run 150km around the mountains. It had the makings of an epic--we had to wait ages because the correct manager/chief was apparently not around, and nobody else knew what we were talking about with wanting the permits verified--but after a couple of hours or so they let us go, apparently convinced we were so insane that there was no point trying to help us. For what it's worth, we never got asked for the permits either.

In reply to john arran:

I remember some scary-looking concrete border bunkers on the Montenegro/Albania border. I was glad we were several years too late for any excitement!

In reply to Chirs:

Thanks Chris! Just what I was looking for

In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Years ago I was on a caving expedition to the Durmitor national park and climbed the local 'Matterhorn' Bobotov Kuk on a day 'off' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobotov_Kuk It's a fantastic limestone range, very wild and well worth exploring. The peak itself was fine, a walk with some scrambly bits.

In reply to Mike Hewitt:

We were in Montenegro last year and year before and Albania side from Montenegro about 5 years ago.

Fantastic area. Cicerone have produced a book on Walking in Montenegro.

Done some climbing and walking in the Durmitor area - Bobatov Kok is very popular summit. Maps and details at main town of Kabljak.

On Albania / Montenegro border there is an tourist information office near Gusinje on road to Vusanje - chap in charge is Admir Lalic (email Alaliuc@gmail.com - good chap !

We stayed in the Grbaja valley magic place - stopped at Eko Katun Grebaje. Useful walking book available by Rifat Mulic which includes details of some rock climbing. Also "Peaks of the Balkans" walk linking the three countries of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo - we saw some walkers from Holland who were doing this.

Unless you have a 4 wheel drive vehicle do not take the short cut back to Podgorica via Vermosi. Best either to Kolasin and Bijelo Polje and Berane to Plav - or short cut over from Andrijevica to Matesvo which gives chance to look at (and climb) Kom Vasojevicki.

Don't need permit for Zla Kotata as on border - but could check with Admir.

Mega mountains and mega crags - mega place !