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Where would you go climbing next week in the South of France???

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 Greenman28 28 Mar 2016
Hi all,

Going to be in the South of France around the Marseille area next week. Happy to travel 2-3 hours in search of good climbing and a decent place to camp..... I'm intrigued by Orpierre and also considering Gorge du Verdon but not been to either before.

Where else should we be considering? Huge amount of climbing in this area so finding it a little hard to narrow it down. We'll have a week to spend and will be climbing in the 6's and 7's mostly. Could we spend a week at Orpierre?

Any top recommendations for camp sites also welcomed.

Thanks!
 jon_gill1 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:

Chateauvert is great climbing at those grades!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:

I visited Orpierre for the 1st time last October - lovely spot (and great campsite) but generally a bit of a disappointment - incredibly busy (we did pick the busiest two weeks of the year apparently) and very polished,


Chris
 Rog Wilko 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:

I think you might find Verdon a bit bracing at this time of year. It's quite high and a bit distant from the ameliorating influence of the Med. I've been snowed on there in mid-May. You'd be better off at this time of year near the sea. Toulon has some great crags. I've also had some great trips to Haute Provence at this season with Buis les Baronnies and Dentelles de Montmirail being specially good with lots of nice south facing crags. I agree with Chris about Orpierre, though my experience isn't at your sort of grade.
 Climber_Bill 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:
Agree about Chateauvert, though some of the good routes in the high 6's and in the 7 range are getting a bit polished.

Chateaudouble is a good venue and not as popular. We will actually be there all next week.

Further east is the Gorge du Loup which is great, but lots of tufa climbing and it may be wet still at this time of year. The best venue, without too much tufa is Mesa Verde. At the top of the Gorge du Loup is Greoliere and a crag called Chouchou Place which is very nice and a sun trap, but at 1000m should be fine and not too hot yet;

http://voyageverticalmj.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Gr%C3%A9oli%C3%A8res

http://voyageverticalmj.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/topo-chouchou-place-version-...

http://www.philippegatta.fr/blog/topo-chouchou-place/

la Turbie and Peillon are great as well. Spoilt for choice in that region to be honest.

Have fun, I can't wait!

TJB.
Post edited at 12:10
 tobykeep 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:
Lots of good climbing around Buis les Baronnies (as mentioned above) and a new bunk house just been opened which looks nice.
Post edited at 12:16
 seankenny 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:

Would Buoux still be enjoying climbable temps? If so then it's well worth a visit.
 robgixer 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:

Just got back from the Verdon Gorge. Can't recommend it enough absolutely amazing place. Temperatures were really good to climb in the day but very cold at night. No campsites quite open at la palud but there is one at Castalanes. A week isn't enough!
OP Greenman28 29 Mar 2016
Thanks for the advice everyone, really useful. I'm becoming less enthused by Orpierre although does look a nice looking spot. A week doesn't seem long enough by a long shot. Heading east from Marseille sounds like it will give us lots to go at and lots of options depending on weather. Chateauvert, chateaudouble, Toulon etc. Will keep Verdon on the fence, even if just to go and gape at. See some of you out there! Sounds like I'll need to arrange another longer trip for the next time.

 jon_gill1 29 Mar 2016
In reply to Greenman28:
Yes you cant go too far wrong with those suggestions!I have been to verdon a couple of times in early march and early April,usually warm enough in the day but it can rain or indeed snow but generally its been good,and if it does rain you can climb on the main wall at Chateauvert even whilst its raining!I'm heading out there on 16th for a few days!

Once you go to Verdon you'll be hooked!this I my 5th time there in as many years!love it!

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