UKC

Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and I think the thread title says it all. The reason why I'm posting in the gear section is because I used to climb in my beloved purple and black mythos that seems to not be in the La Sportiva catalogue anymore. However I found a couple of sites claiming their availability, shall I stay clear? I think that chances are that those might be old stocks and that the rubber performance might be long gone by now. What do you think? What are the recommended non-extreme all-rounder options nowadays? I know that it's all down to find the right fit but just as indication where should I look? Oh and before you tell me, I know the mythos are still available but I can't really stand that horrible colour.

Thanks in advance to anyone who will help.

In reply to debo:
Where do you live? I'd definitely recommend going to a reputable climbing shop and trying on as many shoes as possible to find a pair with the best fit.

In reply to debo:

Pretty sure they still make the Mythos although probably not in purple. My mate has used them for years. Think they are still use the same last.

In reply to andy.smythe:

Mythos is still made, unchanged as far as I know, and still pretty popular.

In reply to debo:


They made the purple Mythos up to 2011, according to the intrawebs, so stock shouldn't be *too* old. Alternatively, if you have narrowish feet, you could try the women's Mythos, which is a pale green.


Depends where you want things to fall on the technical versus all-day-comfort spectrum, but you could look at the Sportiva Katanas, maybe, or the 5.10 Anasazi or the Moccasym (another unlined leather shoe that'll stretch to fit and be comfy). Or maybe the Anasazi Guide, which I've seen described as like a slightly more technical Mythos.

If the key thing is a fairly soft, comfortable lace-up, you could look at the Evolv Defy or Elektra lace-ups (which can also be bought very inexpensively).

Obviously, as you already know, it's all about trying them on and finding what fits, but at least you can look at pictures of them online and see in advance which ones are tolerable colours.

(I speak as someone who was only willing to try the women's Miura velcros when they started making them in blue instead of the design with flowers on ....)

In reply to debo:
Try the Evolv Defy, comfy but nice to climb in and a good price!

In reply to slab_happy:

Thanks, that's what I thought which means probably the purple currently sold online might be too hazardous, 5 years is a very long time for any rubber to sit down. Pale green don't seem too bad, I should try them on but they might be too narrow indeed, worth a try though.

As for all-round I think yes I meant a good degree of comfort with the opportunity to experiment various disciplines although, to also reply to deacondeacon, considering that I recently moved nearby Manor House the Castle Climbing Centre is going to be the place where I will spend most of my time. I past by there last Saturday but it was so packed that I avoided to enter the shop but if it's recommended I can go and have a chat with them, also on Monday I'll be in Bristol so I could maybe pay a visit to the Banana Fingers guys.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

In reply to deacondeacon:

See above reply please

In reply to debo:

The Castle shop have a good selection of things to try, and BananaFingers have a mind-bogglingly huge range (I've never visited their shop, but have ordered from their website on many occasions).

Also, forgot to say -- welcome back to climbing! *g*

In reply to slab_happy:

Thanks a lot, I'm actually really excited about it, I'm sure there is going to be an awful lot of things that I will have to learn and pick up again but I'm very excited about it.

In reply to Debo:

Thing that just occurred to me -- if it turns out that nothing else comes close to the Mythos for you, you could always try suede dye. I've not tried it on climbing shoes, but since they're leather, it could be worth a shot. You wouldn't be able to make them a lighter/brighter colour, but you might at least be able to make them black (if that'd be more tolerable).

(Then you can pretend they're a super-exclusive model which La Sportiva haven't released onto the market yet. *g*)

In reply to Debo:

People seem to wear the Boreal Jokers right out of the box for long periods.

In reply to Debo:
I'm still using a pair of Mythos shoes which have 10 year old rubber on them to climb up to E1. Once you wear off the surface layer by climbing with them, I'm sure the 5 year old rubber on the purple Mythos will be fine.

In reply to slab_happy:

That might actually be an interesting idea, and yes to me black would definitely look better than earth colour as they call it. Thanks for the hint, anyway, I have to go the shop and try on some models first of all, after 20 years chances are that my foot changed quite a while and that maybe the Mythos is not even an option anymore.

In reply to IPPurewater:

You actually have quite a point there.