UKC

Hello, we are trying to plan a European trip for last week of April, first week of May. We are having a hard time deciding where to go. We are looking for moderate sport climbing, single pitch and some longer routes ok. We could stay in the same spot for the whole 2 weeks, or hit up two different destinations that are close to each other. We prefer less busy destinations or newer crags to avoid polished routes. We do not enjoy slab climbing and are not bold on rusted or super run out bolts (I know some of you are!!). We are from Canada and climb a lot of quartzite and limestone at home.

We have already been to Kalymnos and El Chorro and enjoyed both very much. We are looking to try France, Italy or a med island this time.
Corsica sounds very interesting as do Sicily and Mallorca. We are also intrigued by the Amalfi coast in Italy or maybe a classic area in the south of France?
We will plan on renting a car.
Any beta on route quality, problems with pro and destination recommendations would be appreciated.

In reply to HKC:

Sardinia would also fit the bill. Ogliastra area

In reply to HKC:

Well I'm just back from Mallorca and had a belter of a time. Spent two weeks there, sport climbing in the lower grades, plus a bit of mountineeringy stuff and some cycling. If you go, you must do a route at Sa Gubia. Its an awesome pillar of rock- we did the Gubia normal. 7 pitches of trad(ish- some equipped stances and the odd rotten peg) severe.

In reply to kingborris:

I've thought of Sardinia as well! It sounds lovely but I was concerned that there were a lot of problems with bad gear? Maybe I should add it back to the list!

I've also heard the climbing is quite good on Tenerige which I hadn't thought of until now...

In reply to HKC:

Sicily San Vito area is great for sport climbing. I'd also recommend Sardinia. The gear there was fine as far as I remember. Mallorca is beautiful but for concentration of very accessible climbing sites close together i'd favour Sicily. Corsica also lovely but quite expensive and the good crags tend to be well spread out around the island.

In reply to climberchristy:
Sicily ticks all your boxes (I'm sat in the queue for ferry back from Palermo to Genoa after a great 2 weeks climbing). However late April / early May will be too hot, also the campsite or other accommodation will be much busier and more expensive. Much better if you can go late March / early April

In reply to HKC:

Thank you so much, this all helps alot. Especially about Corsica being more expensive. I will look more closely at Sicily even if it's a bit hotter at the end of April. What about doing a week in Sicily and a week at the newer crags along the amalfi coast?
I really appreciate the feedback.

In reply to HKC:

I think you will find the temps at the end of April OK on Sicily (and I have been there lots!) The handy location of many of the crags makes a midday pause in the heat of the day very easy. I have not visited the Amalfi coast, some friends were there last year, and, although beautiful, found it crowded with tourists and the climbing nothing special. It is also a long way (with awkward connections) from the main centre of Sicilan climbing at San Vito lo Capo-which offers enough climbing, walking, history and nature for many years of visits.

In reply to scott titt:

Thank you, very good to know about the Amalfi. I think I have now narrowed it down to Sicily and Sardinia, and eliminated Mallorca, Tenerife and south of France. Now to decide between two med Italian islands.....
Now I'm getting somewhere!

In reply to HKC:

You might want to consider Malta & Gozo too, which lie just south of Sicily.