UKC

I'm looking at new ropes and the main contender has an 80m and 100m version.

They're not that different in price but I'm wondering if the extra 20m is worth it?

I guess it depends where it gets used and how often I can get away on trips etc.

Does anyone use one and are glad they bought it?

I guess I can cut it loads to prolong its life at least if I get something longer...

In reply to James Malloch:


This!

In reply to James Malloch:

Worth considering: a longer rope means significantly more weight to carry on approaches and way more length to take in at belays. I have a 70m rope, which is massive overkill for most things I climb, even using it folded in half (it's triple-rated) as doubles.

The crucial thing, obviously, is what you're planning on climbing: are you going to need a 100m rope? If so, it's obviously not only worth it, it's essential.

If not, though, there are actually disadvantages to having more rope than you need.

In reply to James Malloch:

Also consider you have to take the extra (potentially useless) meters of rope with you if you climb outside. On a long multipitch I know I wouldn't want to carry the extra weighth.

I personally dont see the use TBH. at around 50 m, you start to get a fair amount of drag, even with 2 ropes. this makes movement quite hard. communication at that distance can be quite difficult as it is also, which makes this less practical also. One further thing to keep in mind, is the dynamic elongation of the rope. if you fall on a rope that has 20-30% elongation with a 100m out, you can be looking at around 20-30m in stretch alone! that in itself is a risk worth considering before you go down that road.

Yes you can cut it more often, but an extra 40m of rope is a lot to carry and by the time you have trimmed it back a few times, you might want a new one anyway. besides, while the ends to see more wear, a rope sees damage through its entire length. you can buy a good quality dry treated double rope for around 100 pounds these days. this is not THAT much of an outlay when you average it over a few years. I think 60's are a good length. I can even see merits in sticking to 50's.

In reply to James Malloch:

It's worth it for linking two single sports pitches together (from the ground) to create some great stamina link-ups.

However as others have said I wouldn't use it for multi-pitch - too much rope.

Occasionally some sports crags in Europe have routes that are 40 -50m long. The extra rope gives you some flexibility and saves the need for an intermediate lower-off.

All in all a pretty specialist bit of kit, I'd personally only go for it if you have specific routes in mind that require a rope of that length or are really into long stamina routes in Europe.

In reply to James Malloch:

It's worth bearing in mind that if you extend pitches you also need to carry more gear for protection.

Al

In reply to James Malloch:
For UK climbing a 100m rope is pretty much useless, it'll be bulky and heavy and you'll spend half your time untangling it and coiling it.

The only reason I'd buy any rope for rock climbing longer than 60m is if I planned on doing a lot of European sport climbing as it's common on some crags to have 30-35m+ pitches. You don't get many longer than that though so unless you're got something particular in mind I don't see why you'd buy a 100m rope.

Personally I own a 80m for Euro sport climbing and a 60m for UK routes along with a 20m for down the local wall. I've never used the 80m in the UK.

Edit: I see you've been to Les Bruixes, the 80m was handy there. Still, didn't see any need for a 100m one though.

In reply to James Malloch:

As you say, it depends where it gets used. I have one for my local crag which has loads of 50m pitches and yes, I'm very pleased I bought it. It's a Beal Joker, so not too heavy and once really compressed in a rope bag it's very compact. There are however a few 55m pitches aswell so sometimes we use a short bit of rope in addition. Generally the 50m pitches require 15 > 20 quickdraws which isn't usually a problem.

In reply to James Malloch:

Hi James. I can think of a couple of times where a 100m would be useful. If you are rope soloing big walls, super long ropes mean you can link multiple pitches - the rope is stationary so no rope drag. Secondly some big euro sports routes. I just did a 50m sport pitch on the Costa Blanca. I had a 70m skinny sport rope but had to tow a half rope as well - going over the crux capping overhang the weight of the ropes was significant - probably 5 - 8kg.
Would I buy an 80 or 100m half rope, no - lugging it in would be a bind and trad lines have epic drag at 50m, 80 or 100m. For sport, 80m maybe if I was doing a number of euro trips, maybe even the 100m if that was my thing, for the UK 100m no.

In reply to James Malloch:

Buy it and give me the 20m you cut off.

In reply to James Malloch:

Not practical. Unless you want to reduce the number of pitches on Yosemite or similiar big walls.

In reply to James Malloch:

Cheers for the replies - seems to cover what I'd thought about really.

I've a 60m at the moment but both ends need chopping after my recent trip so it's just a European sport rope that I'm after. There have been occasions when an 80m would have been useful so I'm after that length.

As I'm going for a 9mm I wasn't sure how it would wear so the 100m would allow lots of chopping whilst still being okay for those long pitches. I'll probably go for the 80m purely due to weight issue for flights. There was only one of each left so I'll see if it's actually there first.