UKC

I'm in Malawi this summer and keen to have a crack at some of the trad routes in the Mulanje massif / Mt Chambre

There doesn't seem to be much info online and just wondering if anyone has been up that way? I hear they are long and may stray into vertical grass adventurousness at times, but not much else!

I'll be taking a rack out from the UK and keen to make this as lightweight as poss...

Any beta much appreciated!

Thanks,
Luke

In reply to Lh88:

Some route and bouldering info on the Mountain Club of Malawi website http://www.mcm.org.mw/

In reply to hazeysunshine:

Thanks. Some good info on the MCM website. Would love to hear any stories of ascents / info on what to bring in terms of rack/warm gear if anyone's been up that way..

In reply to Lh88:

I lived on the shores of Lake Malawi in the 1990s and visited Mulanje a couple of times with non-climbing friends. I soloed several of the easy/scrambling routes to most of the Mulanje peaks while they trekked the Plateau, but I didn't do any of the main technical climbs so can only give an impression from the terrain I passed through.

It is worth getting Frank Eastwood's Guide Book to the Mulanje Massif - I think there is a new edition (mine dates from the late 1970s i think). It has the main climbing routes recorded in it, with details of gear needed. There are some bolts on some of the harder routes though these may be 30 to 40 years old by now.

The rock has very few cracks and routes tend to follow ridges, water-worn runnels or major geological fault lines (bouldery chimneys and gullies). There are long stretches of slabby rough granite where friction is good when it is dry - a bit precarious when it rains. Holds and protection are mostly in the form of grass tussocks and Velozia bushes. (imagine something like a yucca plant stem...). These are pretty solidly attached if there hasn't been a fire recently (that really weakens their hold...). You may have a few opportunities to place big cams, but probably not many so taking a big rack of them is not necessary. Yosemite it ain't.

As I was solo and therefore moving most of the time, I mostly wore shorts and t-shirt and a pair of fell-running shoes and carried waterproofs and a light fleece. It gets cold at night (just above freezing) and it can rain up on the plateau, even in the dry season. Dense drizzly fog can also happen in the dry season (Mulanje is miserable in such "chiperoni" weather). On a sunny day it is a magical place to be and I liked the rock too - a bit like 6,000 ft high versions of the Dartmoor Tors.

If you do climb something there, post here - would be great to get some recent reports.

There is a wobbly video here, of an apparently first ascent of a route on Chambe East Face
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mt-Mulanje-East-Face-Chombe-A-Climbing-FA-and-o...

And report of an ascent of the 'classic' Chambe West Face route:
http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/Mulanje.htm

Eddie

In reply to EddieA:

Ooh do do do post here! I've trekked on the plateau with groups twice and love it up there. Have been trying to pursuade my husband that we should head back to climb. Would love to hear how you get on.
I'm afraid I know nothing about pro or rock quality but can second all that is said above about the weather. It is cold at night (ice on the tents in the morning in July), can rain at any time of year and is prone to mist and clag.
I can put you in touch with a local guide who can organise a lot of logistics for you when you are there. I highly recommend Wonderford Mmambo- who is president of the Guides and Porters Association and part of the local MR team. If you want his email address send me a DM.
Good luck! Malawi is an amazing country.

In reply to Lh88:

Luke
I put up a handful of new routes in central Malawi in the 1980s and have walked on Mulanje mountain but not climbed there. You should take a look at the photo I posted on here yesterday "typical Malawi grass tuft climbing". Alas that pretty much sums up the character of the "big routes" .

I can however recommend Nkoma in central region which is probably too steep to hold grass. Check out a line called "The Experience" . We operated ground up with twin 9mm ropes and a typical British trad rack, 1 set of wires and cams from #1/2 to 3. Any bolts placed were hand drilled on lead so expect minimal bolting but it is a great line. There is plenty of scope there for new routes especially if you have a battery drill.

Enjoy your time in Malawi and stay safe, rescue is not always available.

In reply to Lh88:

A few years ago I was considering a trip to Malawi. My research revealed that Chris Bonington had climbed the big classic route on Mulanje (French route?). So I emailed him to ask what it was like. He said it was along time ago but that it was a good climb with "lots of tied off Lobelia runners".

In reply to all:

That's brilliant, thanks for sharing. I'll be sure to post something on here with a bit more info over the Summer.

Cheers,