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What are world class routes that you'd travel for? A dream of white horses cropped up on the other thread so shall we agree that's the UK's world class route.
La Demande (6a) for france maybe?
Can we list every country?
La Demande (6a) for france maybe?
Can we list every country?
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In reply to zimpara:
Absolutely not. Not even outstanding by Gogarth standards, and Gogarth's not even outstanding by UK sea cliff standards.
> What are world class routes that you'd travel for? A dream of white horses cropped up on the other thread so shall we agree that's the UK's world class route.
Absolutely not. Not even outstanding by Gogarth standards, and Gogarth's not even outstanding by UK sea cliff standards.
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In reply to zimpara:
I'm heading to Italy in August to do the Dibona Arete. I'm not sure if it'd be considered world class, but to a punter like me it's the closest I'm going to get to doing the north face of Cima Grande, and it'll hopefully give me a taste of the exposure and awe of the routes on there, which in my opinion are definitely world class.
I'm heading to Italy in August to do the Dibona Arete. I'm not sure if it'd be considered world class, but to a punter like me it's the closest I'm going to get to doing the north face of Cima Grande, and it'll hopefully give me a taste of the exposure and awe of the routes on there, which in my opinion are definitely world class.
In reply to zimpara:
Depends who 'you' is? For me...
Snake Dike
Mount Kenya twin summits by *any* route (I've been just 80m short on Nelion)
Matterhorn summit by *any* route (attracted, like Mount Kenya, by the sheer beauty and history of the mountain)
Cassin Route and/or North Ridge on the Badile
Something interesting in Norway (so how vague can I get?)
So of course someone will tell me you asked for routes, not summits, and the Matterhorn's a heap of rubble, but these are what I'd most like to do!
Doubt we'll ever get UKC consensus on anything, least of all that!
> What are world class routes that you'd travel for?
Depends who 'you' is? For me...
Snake Dike
Mount Kenya twin summits by *any* route (I've been just 80m short on Nelion)
Matterhorn summit by *any* route (attracted, like Mount Kenya, by the sheer beauty and history of the mountain)
Cassin Route and/or North Ridge on the Badile
Something interesting in Norway (so how vague can I get?)
So of course someone will tell me you asked for routes, not summits, and the Matterhorn's a heap of rubble, but these are what I'd most like to do!
> A dream of white horses cropped up on the other thread so shall we agree that's the UK's world class route.
Doubt we'll ever get UKC consensus on anything, least of all that!
In reply to petestack:
Something on Stetind for Norway?
http://www.stetind.nu/uploads/6/1/8/8/6188415/5771298_orig.jpg
Something on Stetind for Norway?
http://www.stetind.nu/uploads/6/1/8/8/6188415/5771298_orig.jpg
In reply to Robert Durran:
I don't think I've encountered anyone more fitting of the description 'Fun at parties'.
I don't think I've encountered anyone more fitting of the description 'Fun at parties'.
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In reply to MischaHY:
Thanks, but I hate parties.
> I don't think I've encountered anyone more fitting of the description 'Fun at parties'.
Thanks, but I hate parties.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
Yes I'd agree with that it's a good route with a brilliant name! One I'd travel for is Vestpillaren on Presten (Lofoten Isles). Didn't get to do it on a trip last year due to weather but still want to climb it sometime.
Yes I'd agree with that it's a good route with a brilliant name! One I'd travel for is Vestpillaren on Presten (Lofoten Isles). Didn't get to do it on a trip last year due to weather but still want to climb it sometime.
In reply to jim jones:
But a pity about the crappy finish. Still easily worth travelling for though, but next time I'll finish up something else.
> One I'd travel for is Vestpillaren on Presten (Lofoten Isles).
But a pity about the crappy finish. Still easily worth travelling for though, but next time I'll finish up something else.
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For ice / winter - in a land of many world class routes, maybe Polar Circus (WI 5) in Canada? And pick any number of named or unnamed climbs in various parts of Norway (though probably nothing in Rjukan!).
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In reply to Robert Durran:
The finish is an amble up a gully for about 20 mtrs as I remember it. It's about mod isn't it?
> But a pity about the crappy finish.
The finish is an amble up a gully for about 20 mtrs as I remember it. It's about mod isn't it?
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In reply to TobyA:
Yes, an anticlimactic escape totally out of character with the brilliance of the rest of the route.
> The finish is an amble up a gully for about 20 mtrs as I remember it. It's about mod isn't it?
Yes, an anticlimactic escape totally out of character with the brilliance of the rest of the route.
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In reply to zimpara:
Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera) (7a) has to be completely unique, globally. Plus, it's incredibly convenient (10 minute walk from bed/food/bar).
Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera) (7a) has to be completely unique, globally. Plus, it's incredibly convenient (10 minute walk from bed/food/bar).
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Ditto Humanility in Thailand, but without the arduous walk-in
> Fiesta de los Biceps (La Visera) (7a) has to be completely unique, globally. Plus, it's incredibly convenient (10 minute walk from bed/food/bar).
Ditto Humanility in Thailand, but without the arduous walk-in
In reply to zimpara:
There are so many, but when it comes to multi pitch pure rock routes, grade for grade and pound for pound, Motorhead at Eldorado must be one of the best routes in the world?
I've now done it three times, and it never fails to be a magical outing.
There are so many, but when it comes to multi pitch pure rock routes, grade for grade and pound for pound, Motorhead at Eldorado must be one of the best routes in the world?
I've now done it three times, and it never fails to be a magical outing.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
Did you do Syrdpillaren on Stetind also? That also finish with one last swing around on steep rock then you are in a huge rock gully, almost and amphitheater, that I think we unroped for - just a walk really. I can't say either of them really detracted from overall experience of all of the good climbing below, but you clearly have high standards!
To the OP: I would say Sydpillaren on Stetind has to be a contender for a world class route at a sensible grade, but I don't have enough experience elsewhere to say I'm certain it is world class.
Did you do Syrdpillaren on Stetind also? That also finish with one last swing around on steep rock then you are in a huge rock gully, almost and amphitheater, that I think we unroped for - just a walk really. I can't say either of them really detracted from overall experience of all of the good climbing below, but you clearly have high standards!
To the OP: I would say Sydpillaren on Stetind has to be a contender for a world class route at a sensible grade, but I don't have enough experience elsewhere to say I'm certain it is world class.
In reply to TobyA:
Yes, but it didn't seem to detract from the route in this case!
I wouldn't argue with that.
> Did you do Syrdpillaren on Stetind also? That also finish with one last swing around on steep rock then you are in a huge rock gully, almost and amphitheater, that I think we unroped for - just a walk really.
Yes, but it didn't seem to detract from the route in this case!
> To the OP: I would say Sydpillaren on Stetind has to be a contender for a world class route at a sensible grade, but I don't have enough experience elsewhere to say I'm certain it is world class.
I wouldn't argue with that.
In reply to Robert Durran:
I've never understood the critics of DOWH. It's a wonderfully iconic route in a fabulous situation. I'm certainly stugging to think of more grins fun and a better experience at that grade on Gogarth?
Even Royal Robbins said it was brilliant!
> Absolutely not. Not even outstanding by Gogarth standards, and Gogarth's not even outstanding by UK sea cliff standards.
I've never understood the critics of DOWH. It's a wonderfully iconic route in a fabulous situation. I'm certainly stugging to think of more grins fun and a better experience at that grade on Gogarth?
Even Royal Robbins said it was brilliant!
Post edited at 17:48
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In reply to Goucho:
Ok, let's just say it's a good route for the grade at Gogarth. Which is a million miles from saying it's one of the best routes of any grade in the world.
> I've never understood the critics of DOWH. It's a wonderfully iconic route in a fabulous situation. I'm certainly stugging to think of more grins fun and a better experience at that grade on Gogarth?
Ok, let's just say it's a good route for the grade at Gogarth. Which is a million miles from saying it's one of the best routes of any grade in the world.
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In reply to zimpara:
In terms of World Class Routes, Australia has an easy pick (in my opinion - obviously others may differ)
The Taipan Wall is the jewel in the crown for Australian climbing. The best route on the Taipan Wall is "Serpentine". I consider it to be among the worlds greatest single pitches.
Really an awesome bit of rock.
In terms of World Class Routes, Australia has an easy pick (in my opinion - obviously others may differ)
The Taipan Wall is the jewel in the crown for Australian climbing. The best route on the Taipan Wall is "Serpentine". I consider it to be among the worlds greatest single pitches.
Really an awesome bit of rock.
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In reply to Nick Harvey:
Re: Polar Circus, absolutely fabulous route.
Another contender for a great climb, albeit at a more moderate grade, would be "Cascade Falls". At the grade, there aren't many routes I can think of which are better.
Re: Polar Circus, absolutely fabulous route.
Another contender for a great climb, albeit at a more moderate grade, would be "Cascade Falls". At the grade, there aren't many routes I can think of which are better.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Oh don't get me wrong, as good as I think it is, I wouldn't class it as even the best HVS in the UK - that's probably Gob at Carnmore - let alone the best grade for grade in the UK, and certainly not remotely in the running in world terms.
> Ok, let's just say it's a good route for the grade at Gogarth. Which is a million miles from saying it's one of the best routes of any grade in the world.
Oh don't get me wrong, as good as I think it is, I wouldn't class it as even the best HVS in the UK - that's probably Gob at Carnmore - let alone the best grade for grade in the UK, and certainly not remotely in the running in world terms.
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In reply to Smelly Fox:
I'll see your Lotus Flower Tower and raise you an Asgard; Scott Route, East Face. "Definitely one of the best alpine rock routes in the world" - Houlding.
> Lotus Flower Tower for Canada?
I'll see your Lotus Flower Tower and raise you an Asgard; Scott Route, East Face. "Definitely one of the best alpine rock routes in the world" - Houlding.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I think we've been here before! yes it is!
> Absolutely not. Not even outstanding by Gogarth standards, and Gogarth's not even outstanding by UK sea cliff standards.
I think we've been here before! yes it is!
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In reply to zimpara:
I guess my votes in Italy would go to:
Luna nascente, val di mello (Rock)
Repentance super, cogne (ice)
I have climbed them both and they certainly felt pretty excellent.....although like any world class route they can become the victim of their own success e.g the ice routes get hooked out and the rock routes get polluted with bits of abandoned gear.....not to mention the numerous other parties on the same route.
I guess my votes in Italy would go to:
Luna nascente, val di mello (Rock)
Repentance super, cogne (ice)
I have climbed them both and they certainly felt pretty excellent.....although like any world class route they can become the victim of their own success e.g the ice routes get hooked out and the rock routes get polluted with bits of abandoned gear.....not to mention the numerous other parties on the same route.
In reply to zimpara:
Surely the Nose of El Cap has to be about the greatest high quality, reasonably accessible rock route in the world?
Surely the Nose of El Cap has to be about the greatest high quality, reasonably accessible rock route in the world?
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In reply to zimpara:
Cassin on Piz Badile is better than Commici on Cima Grande. IMO
Zeppelin, El Chorro - class!
Vinatzer Messner, Marmolada South Face, brutal and beautiful
Every random route at Fair Head's Rathlin Wall - "best route I've done in my life" said by everyone one topping out this wall
El Navegante on the Penon de Ifach (Costa Blanca) - every pitch *** on its own and each of them offers different style and sometimes even different rock.
There are my quick thoughts.
Cassin on Piz Badile is better than Commici on Cima Grande. IMO
Zeppelin, El Chorro - class!
Vinatzer Messner, Marmolada South Face, brutal and beautiful
Every random route at Fair Head's Rathlin Wall - "best route I've done in my life" said by everyone one topping out this wall
El Navegante on the Penon de Ifach (Costa Blanca) - every pitch *** on its own and each of them offers different style and sometimes even different rock.
There are my quick thoughts.
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In reply to zimpara:
My favourites that I've done:
L'Ange en decomposition Verdon
Epinephrine Red Rocks
Murciana. El Naranja de Bulnes
Cassin Piz Badile
Don Quixote. Marmolada
Penasola. Caval Bernat, Monserrat
Fantan B. Lleyn
Apologies for possible spelling errors
My favourites that I've done:
L'Ange en decomposition Verdon
Epinephrine Red Rocks
Murciana. El Naranja de Bulnes
Cassin Piz Badile
Don Quixote. Marmolada
Penasola. Caval Bernat, Monserrat
Fantan B. Lleyn
Apologies for possible spelling errors
Some ideas:
1938 Route on Eiger (Mittellegi Ridge ain't that bad for normal people either)
Hörnli ridge or north face (Schmid route) on Matterhorn
Eperon Walker on Grandes Jorasses
Hasse Brandler on Cima Grande
--> if we also throw in the Allain-Leiniger or the American Direct with north face exit on the Drus and the Badile north ridge (which I would favour over the Cassin, much the better line though a bit easier), then eh, we have the 6 great north faces...
Additionally:
The Nose on El Cap
Voyage Selon Gulliver on Grand Cap
Peuterey Ridge to Mont Blanc
Moderne Zeiten or maybe The Fish (more impressive and difficult, but worse climbing) on Marmolada
Salbit W Ridge
Carlesso/Sandri on Torre Trieste in the Civetta group also has a pretty impressive line
1938 Route on Eiger (Mittellegi Ridge ain't that bad for normal people either)
Hörnli ridge or north face (Schmid route) on Matterhorn
Eperon Walker on Grandes Jorasses
Hasse Brandler on Cima Grande
--> if we also throw in the Allain-Leiniger or the American Direct with north face exit on the Drus and the Badile north ridge (which I would favour over the Cassin, much the better line though a bit easier), then eh, we have the 6 great north faces...
Additionally:
The Nose on El Cap
Voyage Selon Gulliver on Grand Cap
Peuterey Ridge to Mont Blanc
Moderne Zeiten or maybe The Fish (more impressive and difficult, but worse climbing) on Marmolada
Salbit W Ridge
Carlesso/Sandri on Torre Trieste in the Civetta group also has a pretty impressive line
In reply to zimpara:
I always enjoy threads like this
I'd recommend for the OP: Parois de Legende http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parois-l%C3%A9gende-Arnaud-Petit/dp/2723483282
If you Google it you'll also find images of the contents pages for the ultimate life-time tick list.
I always enjoy threads like this
I'd recommend for the OP: Parois de Legende http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parois-l%C3%A9gende-Arnaud-Petit/dp/2723483282
If you Google it you'll also find images of the contents pages for the ultimate life-time tick list.
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In reply to Cellinski:
For an Alpine list I have to agree although there are some more modern offerings that aren't as well known
Still that is a good tick list for any aspiring Alpinist
For an Alpine list I have to agree although there are some more modern offerings that aren't as well known
Still that is a good tick list for any aspiring Alpinist
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In reply to rocksol:
As I'm more of a Delilah than a Sampson, Phil, routes that are off vertical always suit me best
> If you like slabs, a lost art
As I'm more of a Delilah than a Sampson, Phil, routes that are off vertical always suit me best
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I have done the Hörnli and the Schmid but not the Zmutt, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I would say the Zmutt is a lot more obscure than the Schmid and the Hörnli (obviously). From what I hear, the access as well as some of the climbing is a bit awkward, too. Still worthwhile, though.
My opinion is also that seen from Zermatt, the tempting lines to climb are the Hörnli and the Schmid. And I don't even think that there is an angle from which the Zmutt is a really striking line.
I have done the Hörnli and the Schmid but not the Zmutt, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I would say the Zmutt is a lot more obscure than the Schmid and the Hörnli (obviously). From what I hear, the access as well as some of the climbing is a bit awkward, too. Still worthwhile, though.
My opinion is also that seen from Zermatt, the tempting lines to climb are the Hörnli and the Schmid. And I don't even think that there is an angle from which the Zmutt is a really striking line.
In reply to Cellinski:
I am going simply by what Stephen Venables told me years ago, that the Zmutt is a brilliant route, and about the best climb of its standard that he'd ever done. Also, of course, it has no fixed ropes (though the guides threatened to add some a few years back.).
I am going simply by what Stephen Venables told me years ago, that the Zmutt is a brilliant route, and about the best climb of its standard that he'd ever done. Also, of course, it has no fixed ropes (though the guides threatened to add some a few years back.).
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