UKC

So, after bouldering with someone else for the first time in maybe six months, it has come to my attention that I'm not very good at all at locking off and that it's holding me back. When my foot is high up and I need to lock off one arm to reach the next hold, I have a tendency to release the tension in that arm right after I've tried to reach for the next hold with my other arm, which makes me fall. An example would be Surplomb de la Coquille in Franchard; for those who've done it, I'm struggling to reach the high sidepull just before the topout.

I am not sure what the reason is; part of me thinks it may be a lack of confidence in my foot/feet, which would mean I'm afraid it won't hold and I'll slip, part of me thinks it may be that some of my muscles are too weak (but which? And how should I train?).

Any thoughts much appreciated!

In reply to Adrien:

Hi

There are a number of ways to improve lock off strength but the first thing I would say is to never over do it because it could lead to an elbow injury.

Doing lock off laps on easy routes is a great way to start. Between each handhold lock your arm in and count to 3. Your hand should be hovering just above the hold. As you get better lock off on harder moves.

The second way is to do negative one arm pull ups. Resist going down as much as possible. If you struggle to do this as the start hang a theraband over the bar and pull down on it to assist you.

Hope this helps

In reply to Adrien:

Stronger shoulders should give you better lock-off. I was advised to do slow pull-ups, and it worked for me. Tried to do 10 second-ers, but could only do a set of 3 at 8 seconds initially (that was 8 seconds to go up to full lock, 8 seconds to go down, repeat 3 times, then repeat that whole set 3 times, with a few minutes rest in between). Warning: they are NOT fun in any way, they make finger-boarding seem enjoyable.

Also, assisted one-armers, with one hand low in a sling, if you're up to it. Take it slowly, easy to end up with elbow problems.

In reply to Adrien:

I'm not convinced that its a purely physical thing. For me it's often more to do with a reluctance to commit to the move. Making a move like that is often irreversible and is an obvious and dramatic example of distancing yourself from the last piece of gear.

Al

In reply to Adrien:

I dont recall locking off that move, you need to trust the right foot and throw. Most of the time you can avoid serious lock offs by making good use of momentum. See Dave Mac's 9 out of 10 Climbers for a better understanding of different ways of generating momentum.

Also I think lock-offs are generally inefficient and extremely strenuous! :-P

vimeo.com/92062821 (4 minutes in for Coquille)

Thanks for your thoughts so far!

"I dont recall locking off that move, you need to trust the right foot and throw. Most of the time you can avoid serious lock offs by making good use of momentum."

Yeah actually Coquille is not the best example but I doubt anyone has done Ombre synthétique in JA Martin, which is the problem where I struggled locking off.

"I'm not convinced that its a purely physical thing. For me it's often more to do with a reluctance to commit to the move. Making a move like that is often irreversible and is an obvious and dramatic example of distancing yourself from the last piece of gear."

I've thought about it and that's kind of related to what I meant about not being sure my foot will hold. You're probably right about "making a move that is often irreversible" as I also struggle with dynos.

I agree with what some you said about momentum, however on the particular problem I mentioned above (Ombre synthétique) the guy I was climbing with was doing that move rather statically, and his foot didn't come off. In that particular case I think it is the right way to do it. I suppose I could eventually do it just by throwing, but feel like it's not the most efficient way - in other words that succeeding in doing this would simply add a problem to my ticklist and not make me a better all-round climber.

Slow pull-ups and lock off laps on easy routes sound like good idea (without overdoing it of course; I usually get bored quickly with exercises anyway). I'll try that.

In reply to Adrien:


If you need to do a move statically, and aren't sure of your feet, for me it's normally a case of not having good body tension. That's partly shoulders, fingers and core, any sag and your feet might pop. I've been feeling more confident on my feet at Malham this year partly due to been stronger in all those areas, or that's the impression I have anyway.

In reply to Adrien:
"the guy I was climbing with was doing that move rather statically, and his foot didn't come off. In that particular case I think it is the right way to do it. I suppose I could eventually do it just by throwing, but feel like it's not the most efficient way - in other words that succeeding in doing this would simply add a problem to my ticklist and not make me a better all-round climber."


Stop right there. The easiest way is the most efficient way and a tick is a tick. The easiest way might look ugly but it is still the easiest way. You dont get an extra grade for style but the way some people talk you could easily assume that you could. It is limiting failing of boulderers in particular to admire the static and the powerful for its own sake above efficiency and effectiveness. Dynamism is an important quality to have and 9 times out of 10 throwing is more efficient than locking.

Also whilst "just locking off" seems like a basic ask it isn't. The shoulder is a very complicated joint and pulling up is just has important as holding the position. Also alignment of the shoulder has a part to play. Sometimes dropping the shoulder means you only draw on minor stabilising type muscles so experimentation with positioning is worthwhile. The application of force to help through the trunk to the feet involves the full chain and there maybe weaknesses to work here.

Lots more on the subject here: http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Lock-off%20Strength%20Train...

I think you have a point, in hindsight it may be a case of not enough core (and shoulder) strength (I think my finger strength is OK). I'm not rubbish on very overhung problems as long as the footholds are decent, but I do struggle with bad holds/smears on less steep boulders.



That's sort of what I meant, doing the move more statically felt/looked more efficient than dynamically, style aside. That is, unless in both cases I were able to keep my foot on the foothold, in which case a dynamic move would probably be more efficient. So I think we agree on this (?). Regardless, no matter which way was the most efficient in that particular case, I feel like being better at locking off can only help me (among other things), hence this post.

Perhaps like you said I need to experiment more with positioning. Lately I've tried to become more body-aware as I know it's one of my weaknesses; I also happen to be absolutely rubbish at arêtes.

Thanks for the link, I'll look it up.

In reply to Adrien:

This is a really interesting post. I was on the Coquille last week and couldn't do that move. I could tickle the bottom of the side pull, but couldn't get high enough to hold it. I went away thinking that I need to get better at pulling in with my feet (would this be hip adductors?), but perhaps I need to also be more dynamic. There is something special about that move on the Coquille, but I can't quite work out what it is.