UKC

Can anyone enlighten me as to the difference between this route, No match for climb id:126309

and this one
Brown's Eliminate Direct (E3 5c)

as only Straight and Narrow is in the BMC guide that I own. Many thanks!

In reply to LakesWinter:

I think direct goes up the wall between the arete and green gut. Then joins browns at the ledge.

Straight and narrow is the entire arete

I think 2 different guides contradict this though

In reply to ashtond6:

Possibly you're thinking of paranoid android? I'm perplexed as have never heard of straight and narrow, only the direct. Whatever route it is, it was a fantastic onsight!

In reply to LakesWinter:

Is the difference that one climbs the left hand side of the steer throughout and the other the right - a bit like archangel and don?

In reply to LakesWinter:
Both are in the Froggatt guide under S&N. S&N was named first as climbing what is now BED on the logbook. In the '78 guide it was still an unnamed variant on BE.

In reply to JJL:

No.

In reply to MischaHY:

Doesn't Paranoid Android go out left from Big Crack?

In reply to Offwidth:

So you're saying that they are the same route?

In reply to LakesWinter:

Sort of... they were the same originally but now some (Rockfax) designate S&N as climbing the upper arete as well. We gave both possibilities in Froggatt under S&N. Graham may know more on the history but both versions of S&N in Froggatt are FA unknown as far as I am aware.

In reply to Offwidth:

Right, so one version climbs the bottom arête and then the crux of Brown's and the other version climbs the arête in its' entirety? Thanks for yours and others help.

In reply to LakesWinter:

Either way it's a great route (I did the arête in its entirety) and it's no harder than finishing up Browns.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Cool, thanks, hopefully I'll get to take a look soon.

In reply to MischaHY & Ashton6:
the route between Browns Eliminate and Green Gut is an E3 called Armageddon.

Browns eliminate direct= direct start to Browns Eliminate.

Straight And Narrow= the ar£te in its entirety ( this makes more sense for the name too, being perfectly straight, and being Narrow in the sense that you've got to forcefully eliminate the higher Browns holds).

Imo Browns Eliminate Direct is the true great line on this wall. Lovely imposing ar£te, great gear, then bold wall climbing above. Much better than Browns Eliminate with the traverse in and the opportunity to place ever higher side runners.

In reply to deacondeacon:

You may be right but the link for Straight and Narrow clearly says climb the arete on its left-hand side throughout.


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:
Tbh that's a good excuse for me to go and do it again

In reply to deacondeacon:


That's certainly what I remember, up that lovely little arete, then the obvious line just right of the upper arete. Rubbish gear for me though - one wrong-sized cam (all I had). Concentrates the mind...

Mick

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Has anyone ever actually climbed the Brown's Arete on the LHS all the way, ie round the corner from the Brown's face? It's pretty scrittly round there - I don't think it gets much traffic at all...

In reply to LakesWinter:
Of course it has been climbed but you are right that the rock condition doesn't indicate much traffic. I hadn't appreciated exactly what had happened when I first replied. Rockfax have annoyingly redefined the route and that of BED (following in the long tradition of some overly retentive and/or egotistical definitive editors) and because its policy now for the Rockfax version to be the UKC version, I'm not clear what people log who climb the arete into BE which is the most common version climbed and what happens to the old logs which are now mostly wrong. It's a real pain for those who carefully log things to deal with such changes, especially when giving a new name for climbing the left side would have seemed problem free to me.