UKC

After this forum post last year,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=623416&v=1#x8119450


My rack is as follows,

5 mammut wall express quickdraws (60g jobbies)
4 60cm extenders, dmm 8mm +hoodwires
Reverso 4
2x mammut oval lockers, one for reverso, one for belay.

BD stoppers 1-13 doubles of 4/6/10
Gold alloy offset
Gold WC rock 13
Dmm micro walnut 00
WC friends 0 - 0.5 - 2.5 - 3.5

2x 120cm 8mm slings with wild country ascent lite lockers
Trango shark nutkey
2 prussiks on grivel mini screwgate

Rack feels about half the weight it was last year. Any thoughts on what else I might add or lose?

Last year with that rack I onsighted HVS, E1 and redpointed a 7a.
This years goals are onsight-7a sport and do a VS multi pitch in snowdonia - rack is for general climbing VS and below in north wales, devon, wye, peaks, scotland, cheddar. Partner has sports draws.

In reply to zimpara:

<Any thoughts on what else I might add or lose? >



I have a similar problem, my consultant say I should ditch some ego and buy some modesty
xxx

In reply to zimpara:

That sounds a pretty good rack to me. For minimalist perspective I thought I'd share my first rack...

Nuts 1-4 some doubles (30 years old)

4 Quickdraws (made from tape and some 80s karabiners)

Three slings (one used as a harness)

Three screw gates (similar vintage)

One harness and belay plate bettween the two of us!

1.5 2.5 and 4 friends. Absolute life savours on cornish granite!

Had some brilliant times with that lot.

In reply to zimpara:

If you are redpointing 7a you are more than capable of climbing E2/E3, find some safe ones and get on em!

Peenuts and DMM/WC microlight offsets are all amazing btw

In reply to zimpara:

Have you not noticed that the climbing on the 7a routes and the HVS/E1 routes is substantially different in nature and that perhaps attention could be paid to the mental and technical aspects of the game to advantage? It's not so much the nature of the gear that you carry, but what you do with it that is important.

In reply to jsmcfarland:
err....trad and sport not the same, surely? plenty of people whose sport and trad grades are way out of sync, for the good reason there's different factors involved.

In reply to zimpara:
What do you mean with regards your rack being twice the weight last year?
Have you lost loads of gear? Just stopped carrying some of it? Swapped some heavier gear for modern lighter gear?

In reply to pebbles:

If you are able to climb 7a then I would say that limestone E1's for example should (physically) feel easy, given that the moves are probably around 6a standard. Like the above poster who is aluding to the fact that maybe things other than gear are holding him back

In reply to jsmcfarland:

C'mon people, wise up, he's a wind up merchant!

In reply to zimpara:

Double axle cams

In reply to zimpara:

Sounds like a good rack

Do you not have a can between 0.5 and 2.5. That might be worth looking at.

You could double up more wire sizes so that you could carry doubles of all small wires in certain circumstance (North Pembrokeshire)

You will love doing multi pitch VS. At some point your trad leading grade will leapin grade. But don't rush it. I think one of the hard things about leading harder routes is placing gear with weight on your arms. Much better to have spent a few years practicing placing gear from a ledge or large foot holds. Oh and leaping through the grades just means missing out loads of good routes

In reply to zimpara: petrol money . This will greatly. Increase the volume of trad climbing you do

In reply to zimpara:

Does your partner have Trad gear too? If you are going to multipitch then you will need to leave gear on the belay so you may need extra long slings and screwgates.

Personally I'd get the missing cams (1, 1.5, 2, 3, 4) and a set of hexes on wire too.

In reply to jsmcfarland:

It's not that I can climb 7a anyday of the week, that was a culmination of climbing for the year, periodizing performance and had winter off and building up from 5+s indoors again now.

Gonna double up on small wires then, and fill in some cam gaps.