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Just a placeholder - sorry it's late. Will get stats up tonight. Cheers
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
M: Went out to the Churnet to try The Unicorn SIt-start (f7B) again. Didn't make any further progress, in fact felt further off doing the crux than on my first session. Was nice to be out after work in the light though and it's very similar training to doing sets of max hangs!
T: Shoulder rehab exercises.
W: Max hang fingerboard session. As per previous weeks ie 4 sets of 10 seconds on each of: 18mm edge with BW+29.9kg, small 2-finger pocket (middle 2) with BW (no added weight as feeling a bit tweaky), roof pinches with BW + 4.5 kg.
T: Repeater fingerboard session. Similar to last week: did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off, on 3 different hold types. I used 4 fingers on an 18mm edge, plus front 3 and then back 3 in the good BM2000 pockets. This time with an 18mm edge I didn't fail at all which was nice - an improvement on last time. However, both front and back 3 I failed on the 6th rep of each set, and on the 5th rep of the final set. Interesting that compared to the previous week's session I was better to begin with, but then tired through the session slightly more. Did shoulder rehab exercises afterwards.
F: Rest.
S: Rest although walked about 7 miles (prior to amazing pub lunch).
S: Great day out today. Started at Rubicon planning to try Kudos (f7B) again. Didn't do it but felt pretty strong generally and got a bonus tick of A Bigger Splash Direct (f7B); only took 4 goes. Then drove to Curbar to meet friends, and did Cloud Cuckoo Land (f7A+). On the way home, stopped at Rowtor for a couple of hours and did The Yoghurt Hypnotist (f7B). I've put videos of the latter two on my Vimeo feed. Hadn't expected to be back on grit this year but conditions were ok from mid-afternoon with some cloud (it was baking around lunchtime.)
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 1 lb.
Overall a very good week. Would have been nice to be closer to Unicorn on Monday, but overall through the week (Monday-Friday) I was really pleased to be able to get three hard sessions in rather than two without tweaking things or getting too tired (this was a bit of an experiment as it means training two days straight if I'm to have a decent rest before a weekend day out, which in the past I've been unable to do.) And obviously pleased with today. Only downside was that Moffatrocity still has several big run-off streaks down it.
Si
Thanks Alex.
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
M: Went out to the Churnet to try The Unicorn SIt-start (f7B) again. Didn't make any further progress, in fact felt further off doing the crux than on my first session. Was nice to be out after work in the light though and it's very similar training to doing sets of max hangs!
T: Shoulder rehab exercises.
W: Max hang fingerboard session. As per previous weeks ie 4 sets of 10 seconds on each of: 18mm edge with BW+29.9kg, small 2-finger pocket (middle 2) with BW (no added weight as feeling a bit tweaky), roof pinches with BW + 4.5 kg.
T: Repeater fingerboard session. Similar to last week: did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7s on / 3s off, on 3 different hold types. I used 4 fingers on an 18mm edge, plus front 3 and then back 3 in the good BM2000 pockets. This time with an 18mm edge I didn't fail at all which was nice - an improvement on last time. However, both front and back 3 I failed on the 6th rep of each set, and on the 5th rep of the final set. Interesting that compared to the previous week's session I was better to begin with, but then tired through the session slightly more. Did shoulder rehab exercises afterwards.
F: Rest.
S: Rest although walked about 7 miles (prior to amazing pub lunch).
S: Great day out today. Started at Rubicon planning to try Kudos (f7B) again. Didn't do it but felt pretty strong generally and got a bonus tick of A Bigger Splash Direct (f7B); only took 4 goes. Then drove to Curbar to meet friends, and did Cloud Cuckoo Land (f7A+). On the way home, stopped at Rowtor for a couple of hours and did The Yoghurt Hypnotist (f7B). I've put videos of the latter two on my Vimeo feed. Hadn't expected to be back on grit this year but conditions were ok from mid-afternoon with some cloud (it was baking around lunchtime.)
Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 1 lb.
Overall a very good week. Would have been nice to be closer to Unicorn on Monday, but overall through the week (Monday-Friday) I was really pleased to be able to get three hard sessions in rather than two without tweaking things or getting too tired (this was a bit of an experiment as it means training two days straight if I'm to have a decent rest before a weekend day out, which in the past I've been unable to do.) And obviously pleased with today. Only downside was that Moffatrocity still has several big run-off streaks down it.
Si
Post edited at 21:26
2
In reply to alexm198:
STGs (next 3 weeks):
* run, boulder, yoga every weekday
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)
M: run, climb, yoga
T: run, climb, yoga; linked the first 20 on Clockwork Orange
W: run, climb, tai chi
T: run, climb, yoga; linked the middle 20 on Clockwork Orange
F: run, climb, yoga
S: two great routes from http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
S: partner bailed, so only climbed 1 pitch. Scrambled up Normal Elefant (2c)
Overall very pleased with the first week. Really feeling it in my calves today, probably because of lots of slabs, or more likely all the hanging belays.
STGs (next 3 weeks):
* run, boulder, yoga every weekday
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)
M: run, climb, yoga
T: run, climb, yoga; linked the first 20 on Clockwork Orange
W: run, climb, tai chi
T: run, climb, yoga; linked the middle 20 on Clockwork Orange
F: run, climb, yoga
S: two great routes from http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
S: partner bailed, so only climbed 1 pitch. Scrambled up Normal Elefant (2c)
Overall very pleased with the first week. Really feeling it in my calves today, probably because of lots of slabs, or more likely all the hanging belays.
Post edited at 21:58
In reply to alexm198:
busy week due to big work tax year end project and ferrying D2 to a course, plus D1 visiting for the weekend. In between all that, somehow managed to get a reasonable volume of stuff done:
M - cycle commute. Tom R core x 1, weights, pressups.
T - sneaked off to UCR for a couple of hours between morning implementation and evening implementation. 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a circuits to warm up then woody circuit in 15 moves chunks with 2 min rests. Seemed to get very tired v quickly - suspect that when I was doing this last week the gaps were quite a bit longer due to other people. Finished with 8min on, 8min off x 3 on boring 6a circuit.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening but got there too late and it was too busy. 9 routes: 6b 6b+ / 6b 6b+ / 6c 6c+ / 7a+ / 7a+ 6c.
T - cycle commute. think that was all but can't remember.
F - 2 mile urban walking. UCR in afternoon. warm up of 1on:1off 6a 6b 6c 7a 6c 6b 6a. FOC 1 hang 7 sec, other hand 7 secs etc for 70 secs. 4 min rest, repeat x6. Lots of pull-ups on campus rung. 8 min on 8 min off x 3 on 6b and 6a circuit.
S - TCA, new V2-V4 problems. Did all but 7 of the ~30 problems. A couple I couldn't do would be easier with lank. A couple I need to see someone else do. Did manage 2 which were marked as hard - 1 was crimps on steep so no suprise that that suited me. Enjoyable session.
S - Felt a bit battered from the bouldering - think it's quite a while since I last did any. 2 mile country walk. Tom R core x 1, weights, pull-ups.
bit sad that it was half way decent weather but I didn't manage to get out at all. Did go and have a look at Armistice Wall and it looks like it has dried out so hope as the evenings get lighter that I might be able to continue my assault on Remembrance.
busy week due to big work tax year end project and ferrying D2 to a course, plus D1 visiting for the weekend. In between all that, somehow managed to get a reasonable volume of stuff done:
M - cycle commute. Tom R core x 1, weights, pressups.
T - sneaked off to UCR for a couple of hours between morning implementation and evening implementation. 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a circuits to warm up then woody circuit in 15 moves chunks with 2 min rests. Seemed to get very tired v quickly - suspect that when I was doing this last week the gaps were quite a bit longer due to other people. Finished with 8min on, 8min off x 3 on boring 6a circuit.
W - cycle commute. UCR in evening but got there too late and it was too busy. 9 routes: 6b 6b+ / 6b 6b+ / 6c 6c+ / 7a+ / 7a+ 6c.
T - cycle commute. think that was all but can't remember.
F - 2 mile urban walking. UCR in afternoon. warm up of 1on:1off 6a 6b 6c 7a 6c 6b 6a. FOC 1 hang 7 sec, other hand 7 secs etc for 70 secs. 4 min rest, repeat x6. Lots of pull-ups on campus rung. 8 min on 8 min off x 3 on 6b and 6a circuit.
S - TCA, new V2-V4 problems. Did all but 7 of the ~30 problems. A couple I couldn't do would be easier with lank. A couple I need to see someone else do. Did manage 2 which were marked as hard - 1 was crimps on steep so no suprise that that suited me. Enjoyable session.
S - Felt a bit battered from the bouldering - think it's quite a while since I last did any. 2 mile country walk. Tom R core x 1, weights, pull-ups.
bit sad that it was half way decent weather but I didn't manage to get out at all. Did go and have a look at Armistice Wall and it looks like it has dried out so hope as the evenings get lighter that I might be able to continue my assault on Remembrance.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Morning all
STG = keep up training. Sort out cars on 16th and hopefully outside on Sunday 17th
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon - aiming to do 6x8 B2B boulders. Managed 5x8, average grade V1.5. Really hard work! 29 pull ups over 4x1min efforts.
Tues - c1.5hr strength and conditioning. Lots of press ups, theraband, plank, bicep curls, tricep extensions etc.
Sat - attempted 4x4s. 4x6a, 4x6b, 3x6b+, 3x6b+. Failed on 4th set of last 2 reps. Think I should have eaten more.
Sun - c1 hour TRX esq ring workout. Lots of abs with crunches, side crunches, atomic press ups and lots of normal press ups as well.
Mostly accomplished last weeks STG. First week of training went OK albeit skipped Thurs session after thought I'd knackered myself on Tuesday. Seems OK after the weekend so hopefully false alarm. Car sort out almost done but last bits to finish on Saturday then hopefully day trip outside Sunday. Having a set out and structured training plan definitely helps motivation (and the threat of coach / FC to kick my arse if I report a lazy week)
Morning all
STG = keep up training. Sort out cars on 16th and hopefully outside on Sunday 17th
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon - aiming to do 6x8 B2B boulders. Managed 5x8, average grade V1.5. Really hard work! 29 pull ups over 4x1min efforts.
Tues - c1.5hr strength and conditioning. Lots of press ups, theraband, plank, bicep curls, tricep extensions etc.
Sat - attempted 4x4s. 4x6a, 4x6b, 3x6b+, 3x6b+. Failed on 4th set of last 2 reps. Think I should have eaten more.
Sun - c1 hour TRX esq ring workout. Lots of abs with crunches, side crunches, atomic press ups and lots of normal press ups as well.
Mostly accomplished last weeks STG. First week of training went OK albeit skipped Thurs session after thought I'd knackered myself on Tuesday. Seems OK after the weekend so hopefully false alarm. Car sort out almost done but last bits to finish on Saturday then hopefully day trip outside Sunday. Having a set out and structured training plan definitely helps motivation (and the threat of coach / FC to kick my arse if I report a lazy week)
In reply to alexm198:
Not managed much this week, but feel pretty battered for it. I think i probably need a week of physio/rehab/skin growing before re-engaging with projects?
Next week goals:
Yoga class
Cycle >40miles total
Edit skiing video
3x rehab sessions
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave?
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?!
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences
April goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – start yoga class with the lady - TICK
Rehab strange finger tweak – hurts closing car doors, but not crimping - Getting there
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven) - FAIL
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project - Progress - 4 overlapping sections
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey - FAIL
Week 14:
M - Depot. Bouldered up to 27/30 of comp problems and 3x yellows (V7/8) on the comp wall. 3x 10min aero-cap continuity ~f6b/c-ish. 4x30s alternating plank & v-sit static core.
T - Nowt - London. Early start and beer induced late finish
W - Hotel gym before work. 7min39s 2k ergo row. 3x15@20kg rows. 3x6@16kg curls. 3x10@10kg overhead press. 3x10@10kg incline press. Kris Peters style T’s & I’s 15reps@2kg.
T - Yoga class with the lady. Bendy and strong in some directions, but completely woeful in other, especially the shoulders behind the back pose – ouch!
F - Nowt - Hamstring DOMS from yoga.
S - Malham. 3 ties in on the project. #1 6c+ start as warm-up then epic block trundling. Lost a useful hold and made initial headwall not as simple as i thought it would be. #2 worked bulge and hard clip; #3 worked lip; linked this sequence to the top and got a flash pump. #4 Bat Route working go; found new beta for bulge, middle and got usable method for final crimp sequence to easy ground. #5 Ripped massive flapper getting draws out of project.
S - Core, antags and theraband session; L oblique grumbling lots so sacked it off early. The lady pointed out some imbalances in both scapula position and muscle mass in my back. Definitely something to work on to maintain shoulder health.
Not managed much this week, but feel pretty battered for it. I think i probably need a week of physio/rehab/skin growing before re-engaging with projects?
Next week goals:
Yoga class
Cycle >40miles total
Edit skiing video
3x rehab sessions
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave?
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?!
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences
April goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – start yoga class with the lady - TICK
Rehab strange finger tweak – hurts closing car doors, but not crimping - Getting there
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven) - FAIL
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project - Progress - 4 overlapping sections
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey - FAIL
Week 14:
M - Depot. Bouldered up to 27/30 of comp problems and 3x yellows (V7/8) on the comp wall. 3x 10min aero-cap continuity ~f6b/c-ish. 4x30s alternating plank & v-sit static core.
T - Nowt - London. Early start and beer induced late finish
W - Hotel gym before work. 7min39s 2k ergo row. 3x15@20kg rows. 3x6@16kg curls. 3x10@10kg overhead press. 3x10@10kg incline press. Kris Peters style T’s & I’s 15reps@2kg.
T - Yoga class with the lady. Bendy and strong in some directions, but completely woeful in other, especially the shoulders behind the back pose – ouch!
F - Nowt - Hamstring DOMS from yoga.
S - Malham. 3 ties in on the project. #1 6c+ start as warm-up then epic block trundling. Lost a useful hold and made initial headwall not as simple as i thought it would be. #2 worked bulge and hard clip; #3 worked lip; linked this sequence to the top and got a flash pump. #4 Bat Route working go; found new beta for bulge, middle and got usable method for final crimp sequence to easy ground. #5 Ripped massive flapper getting draws out of project.
S - Core, antags and theraband session; L oblique grumbling lots so sacked it off early. The lady pointed out some imbalances in both scapula position and muscle mass in my back. Definitely something to work on to maintain shoulder health.
In reply to alexm198:
Not the greatest climbing holiday ever.
Bad weather wiped a couple of climbing days out and mixed ability group/no mixed level crags meant quite a bit of faff.
But to cut a long story short on-sighted 7a+ and it felt steady away, so all good. What I really wanted was a lot of mileage and some onsight targets. I didn't really get the mileage but pleased I felt fit.
My mate in Barcelona entered me into a local bouldering comp on Saturday. That was different! Home made wall in a multi use community space (old factory). Health and safety nightmare. Tiny wall with steep sides on both sides, no rules, everyone climbing at once, children everywhere, unguarded lights on the floor. It was great There'd have been kick offs all over the show in the UK. Its nice to be reminded not to be so uptight. Did OK. Got 12 out of the 16 qualifiers. Could have got more with time, but I was tired. It was pretty good as far as the problems went considering the level of it. Bit my anti-style as it was steep and dynamic but I was quite pleased with how I did.
So off to next phase of training now. I'm looking forward to it as I've learned a lot from the last phase, which has obviously worked, and need to take it on now for Summer. Going into a phase of aero cap (boring!) with bouldering for fun sessions I think. I need to focus on an cap a bit more as fitness/recovery was good but cruxy stuff got me more boxed in relation to the other energy systems.
Not the greatest climbing holiday ever.
Bad weather wiped a couple of climbing days out and mixed ability group/no mixed level crags meant quite a bit of faff.
But to cut a long story short on-sighted 7a+ and it felt steady away, so all good. What I really wanted was a lot of mileage and some onsight targets. I didn't really get the mileage but pleased I felt fit.
My mate in Barcelona entered me into a local bouldering comp on Saturday. That was different! Home made wall in a multi use community space (old factory). Health and safety nightmare. Tiny wall with steep sides on both sides, no rules, everyone climbing at once, children everywhere, unguarded lights on the floor. It was great There'd have been kick offs all over the show in the UK. Its nice to be reminded not to be so uptight. Did OK. Got 12 out of the 16 qualifiers. Could have got more with time, but I was tired. It was pretty good as far as the problems went considering the level of it. Bit my anti-style as it was steep and dynamic but I was quite pleased with how I did.
So off to next phase of training now. I'm looking forward to it as I've learned a lot from the last phase, which has obviously worked, and need to take it on now for Summer. Going into a phase of aero cap (boring!) with bouldering for fun sessions I think. I need to focus on an cap a bit more as fitness/recovery was good but cruxy stuff got me more boxed in relation to the other energy systems.
In reply to biscuit:
Aero-cap you say?
Drop me a line if you want an evening belay bunny in the near future
Aero-cap you say?
Drop me a line if you want an evening belay bunny in the near future
In reply to alexm198:
Mon: Rest
Tue: Morning: Indoor bouldering. A good session working routes and problems in the cave. Climbing well. Tried a yellow 7A/+ but struggling with the crux (as I was last week). Seem like I want to spin off it so my body position/feet are wrong somewhere. Skin a bit sore. Evening: mobility drills.
Wed:
Thu: Indoor bouldering with mates. Mostly V1 – V2 circuit and ticked whole first row of pyramid. Tried the 7A/+ again to no avail. Sore skin.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Meant to be racing but decided, after riding the practice lap, to sack it off due to awful course conditions. I don't mind riding in mud at all, all part of mountain biking, but racing in it when it was 95% of the course is pointless. Rode the trails instead for 1:40hrs which were fine.
Sun: Pushups, rest.
On-going weekly/daily:
Mobility drills: daily 2/7
Antagonists: weekly 2x 0/2
Climbing: weekly 3x 1/3
Weight: maintain 140-142 lbs 143.6 +
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete next XC race of season (May 8)
Purple 6C in cave
Yellow 7A/+ in cave
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete first row on indoor bouldering pyramid 8/8 (TICK!)
Complete second row on indoor bouldering pyramid 0/4
MTGs (before end 2016):
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Mon: Rest
Tue: Morning: Indoor bouldering. A good session working routes and problems in the cave. Climbing well. Tried a yellow 7A/+ but struggling with the crux (as I was last week). Seem like I want to spin off it so my body position/feet are wrong somewhere. Skin a bit sore. Evening: mobility drills.
Wed:
Thu: Indoor bouldering with mates. Mostly V1 – V2 circuit and ticked whole first row of pyramid. Tried the 7A/+ again to no avail. Sore skin.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Meant to be racing but decided, after riding the practice lap, to sack it off due to awful course conditions. I don't mind riding in mud at all, all part of mountain biking, but racing in it when it was 95% of the course is pointless. Rode the trails instead for 1:40hrs which were fine.
Sun: Pushups, rest.
On-going weekly/daily:
Mobility drills: daily 2/7
Antagonists: weekly 2x 0/2
Climbing: weekly 3x 1/3
Weight: maintain 140-142 lbs 143.6 +
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete next XC race of season (May 8)
Purple 6C in cave
Yellow 7A/+ in cave
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete first row on indoor bouldering pyramid 8/8 (TICK!)
Complete second row on indoor bouldering pyramid 0/4
MTGs (before end 2016):
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
In reply to Ally Smith:
Will do. I tend to get on the autobelays before work so I don't bore anyone else to death, or occupy a line for hours of an evening.
May also use the circuit boards at the depot.
However i'll be looking at training Tues/Thurs eves soon so will give you a shout.
PS i'll drop your guide back at the wall asap. Just ask it'll be behind the desk. I'm not working there much over the next few weeks.
Will do. I tend to get on the autobelays before work so I don't bore anyone else to death, or occupy a line for hours of an evening.
May also use the circuit boards at the depot.
However i'll be looking at training Tues/Thurs eves soon so will give you a shout.
PS i'll drop your guide back at the wall asap. Just ask it'll be behind the desk. I'm not working there much over the next few weeks.
In reply to biscuit:
one of the problems I did on Saturday was on the ultra-steep and had a really go for it last move. Grabbed the jug, matched, hung vert to drop down to the mat, looked down and there precisely under my feet, staring up at me, was a small child. They got yelled at, loudly!
one of the problems I did on Saturday was on the ultra-steep and had a really go for it last move. Grabbed the jug, matched, hung vert to drop down to the mat, looked down and there precisely under my feet, staring up at me, was a small child. They got yelled at, loudly!
2
In reply to hms:
The kids just got booted out of the way by others on the mats. It seemed to work.
My favourite was kicking a woman square in the back with both feet when I made a sideways jump for a finishing jug. She was traversing along the perpendicular wall near the jug and I was using the wall to stop the swing. She wasn't there when I set off. She held on and finished the problem off
The kids just got booted out of the way by others on the mats. It seemed to work.
My favourite was kicking a woman square in the back with both feet when I made a sideways jump for a finishing jug. She was traversing along the perpendicular wall near the jug and I was using the wall to stop the swing. She wasn't there when I set off. She held on and finished the problem off
1
In reply to stevemarkperry:
Beast + Karrimor (or whatever they're calling it nowadays) makes for a full day out!
> Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
Beast + Karrimor (or whatever they're calling it nowadays) makes for a full day out!
1
In reply to alexm198:
In reply to alexm198:
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637998
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: havenae seen anything that great, suggestions?
Si dH: Crib Goch sounds wild! Did you get a chance to get back on The Unicorn?
AJM: Nice, have you solidified any bouldering projects for back in the UK?
hms: Quality week, congrats! Definitely earnt a slightly lower volume week this week!
Robin Brooke: Nice work on the 7a's and the 7a+!
planetmarshall: did you manage to pile that aerobic deficit into this week?
Nick Russell: Great news from the physio! Exactly how "easy" do you have to take it?
TonyB: hope the weather in Font has improved for you.
Ian Bell: how's TRX working for you? Looks like an interesting idea. My old manager at work did a lot of it for martial arts, which I guess is a similar(ish?!) sort of physique to climbing.
Emily: ouch, hope you've given your legs a bit of a break this week!
Ally Smith: did you get Bat Route in the end?
humptydumpty: welcome to FC! Manage to get out this weekend?
Dandan82: looking good! did you manage the last of those 7s?
biscuit: hope the weather has been better this week? how was the comp?! hope you didn't end up needing that early excuse
Joughton: ooft, medicine - full on! hope this week was better climbing-wise for you.
flopsicle: sorry to hear you went downhill! it's hard to have even a short period of doing nothing and feeling like those gains are slipping away but ultimately it's the best decision! feeling better?
hokkyokusei: manage to get out for a three peaks recce?
stevemarkperry: psyche will carry you a long way!
Mattrm: manage those core sessions?
Curious yellow: glad work is a bit less mental, hope the cold didn't wipe you out too badly?
JayK: strong approach, fry ups then 8a sends. You're don whillans in disguise. Huge effort though, congrats!!
Tyler: where are you? Scary 6a+ slabs... I'm going with France?
0.5viking: ah yes, the ol' bum out approach. Always feel sketchy as no weight over your feet!
Just Tintin: sports massages always look brutal so yep, I'll give you that one!
In reply to alexm198:
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637998
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: havenae seen anything that great, suggestions?
Si dH: Crib Goch sounds wild! Did you get a chance to get back on The Unicorn?
AJM: Nice, have you solidified any bouldering projects for back in the UK?
hms: Quality week, congrats! Definitely earnt a slightly lower volume week this week!
Robin Brooke: Nice work on the 7a's and the 7a+!
planetmarshall: did you manage to pile that aerobic deficit into this week?
Nick Russell: Great news from the physio! Exactly how "easy" do you have to take it?
TonyB: hope the weather in Font has improved for you.
Ian Bell: how's TRX working for you? Looks like an interesting idea. My old manager at work did a lot of it for martial arts, which I guess is a similar(ish?!) sort of physique to climbing.
Emily: ouch, hope you've given your legs a bit of a break this week!
Ally Smith: did you get Bat Route in the end?
humptydumpty: welcome to FC! Manage to get out this weekend?
Dandan82: looking good! did you manage the last of those 7s?
biscuit: hope the weather has been better this week? how was the comp?! hope you didn't end up needing that early excuse
Joughton: ooft, medicine - full on! hope this week was better climbing-wise for you.
flopsicle: sorry to hear you went downhill! it's hard to have even a short period of doing nothing and feeling like those gains are slipping away but ultimately it's the best decision! feeling better?
hokkyokusei: manage to get out for a three peaks recce?
stevemarkperry: psyche will carry you a long way!
Mattrm: manage those core sessions?
Curious yellow: glad work is a bit less mental, hope the cold didn't wipe you out too badly?
JayK: strong approach, fry ups then 8a sends. You're don whillans in disguise. Huge effort though, congrats!!
Tyler: where are you? Scary 6a+ slabs... I'm going with France?
0.5viking: ah yes, the ol' bum out approach. Always feel sketchy as no weight over your feet!
Just Tintin: sports massages always look brutal so yep, I'll give you that one!
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the post. Unfortunately it took another couple of running sessions to convince me that more rest than was scheduled would be a good plan, but I took it eventually. I ought to look after my legs a bit better (ie bother to stretch them, obtain a foam roller or similar), but resent this because it's boring and makes me feel old! So a bit frustrated with the running this week, but some good climbing.
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - evening climbing at Cheddar. Managed to crack the start of Opt Out (6b(+?)) on lead and then, as Nick remarked at the time, the nice thing about hard starts is that you only have to do them once! Yay I did have a long draw on the chains though to remove the scary factor from the finish, which definitely felt like cheating a bit. I liked the route. Bit of a weird one - would probably be a really pleasant 6a or even slightly easier without that nasty start.
Wednesday - running: 8 x (90s fast 3 min jog), plus warmup and cooldown, total 9.7km in 54:42. This was a real battle against the wind and the state of my legs.
Thursday - running: 5.5km in 32:14. Meant to do about twice this distance but I was practically hobbling and it felt totally pointless so called it quits and walked home.
Friday - climbing at Redpoint. Tried the grey (almost certainly not actually a) 7a. Actually got surprisingly close on my first try (couldn't get the last clip in!) but then just faded more and more each time I went up. Also flashed a red (6b-6c). Seems like for that circuit either I can flash it or I can't do it at all.
Saturday - wanted to do park run but after Thursday's debacle decided I wasn't going to get a good time out of it and would be better off resting the legs. Bouldering at TCA - took a novice friend so I wasn't really there to linger over anything I couldn't get straight away, but I did flash several blues plus a 6A+ or two on the mothership wall.
Sunday - nothing except some stretching. Bit lazy.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Apr)
Medium term (Apr, May, June)
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
> Emily: ouch, hope you've given your legs a bit of a break this week!
Thanks for the post. Unfortunately it took another couple of running sessions to convince me that more rest than was scheduled would be a good plan, but I took it eventually. I ought to look after my legs a bit better (ie bother to stretch them, obtain a foam roller or similar), but resent this because it's boring and makes me feel old! So a bit frustrated with the running this week, but some good climbing.
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - evening climbing at Cheddar. Managed to crack the start of Opt Out (6b(+?)) on lead and then, as Nick remarked at the time, the nice thing about hard starts is that you only have to do them once! Yay I did have a long draw on the chains though to remove the scary factor from the finish, which definitely felt like cheating a bit. I liked the route. Bit of a weird one - would probably be a really pleasant 6a or even slightly easier without that nasty start.
Wednesday - running: 8 x (90s fast 3 min jog), plus warmup and cooldown, total 9.7km in 54:42. This was a real battle against the wind and the state of my legs.
Thursday - running: 5.5km in 32:14. Meant to do about twice this distance but I was practically hobbling and it felt totally pointless so called it quits and walked home.
Friday - climbing at Redpoint. Tried the grey (almost certainly not actually a) 7a. Actually got surprisingly close on my first try (couldn't get the last clip in!) but then just faded more and more each time I went up. Also flashed a red (6b-6c). Seems like for that circuit either I can flash it or I can't do it at all.
Saturday - wanted to do park run but after Thursday's debacle decided I wasn't going to get a good time out of it and would be better off resting the legs. Bouldering at TCA - took a novice friend so I wasn't really there to linger over anything I couldn't get straight away, but I did flash several blues plus a 6A+ or two on the mothership wall.
Sunday - nothing except some stretching. Bit lazy.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Apr)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- up another 0.1kg. Need to snack less if I want this to actually go down again
- 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
- no, decided to skip one this week in the hope that my legs feel better for a rest
- run 5k at 10k race target pace, maybe at Little Stoke park run
- didn't get it done this week; park run probably not on the cards next weekend but if I ask Nick nicely he might pace/motivate it for me...
- stretch my legs every day this week because apparently I should admit that I am old and also haven't done any yoga lately
Medium term (Apr, May, June)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 23/36 done, skipped one this week that I probably won't try to make up
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- have another go on Opt Out?
- yes, got it!
- find another local(ish) climb to work on?
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- tried another that was at least labelled 7a, however misleadingly. Didn't feel that far out of reach but I didn't actually manage it, and I think I've done 6cs with worse holds on
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
Post edited at 13:29
In reply to alexm198:
I'm back from the land of pockets and sunshine, and aside from a serious case of post holiday blues for me and Mrs Dandan, I've miraculously managed to come home without any injuries! (I found out today that my workmates had an injury sweepstake to guess which part of me I would break)
I did my best to have some self control, there were definitely days when I could have climbed but chose to rest, and hard routes that I could have tried but chose to ignore, it's had the best possible outcome though, no new or worsening injuries, a still respectable tick list and no regrets about pushing too hard.
Margalef was just fantastic, I enjoyed the style a lot more than I thought I would, I expected to spend a lot of days driving to more familiar territory at Siurana but in the end we only went out of the Margalef valleys thrice all holiday.
The house we stayed in was absolutely amazing, if you want to step it up a notch from the refuge (which I hear is also very good) or have young children and need a bit of space, then speak to Holly and Mac at Casa Catalunya, theirs has to be the nicest house in town.
M: Rest, I could have climbed but instead just belayed at Raco de la finestre, I was aching a bit and the weather was a little iffy so I didn't want to risk it.
T: Rest, enforced this time as it hammered down all day, the road outside the house became a river!
W: Siuranella, specifically Es Cargol, the big pillar of rock sticking off the main wall by El Pati, some fantastic 40m climbs, the grades are pretty questionable (read soft as hell) but onsighted Purgandus populus (L1+L2) (7a) and La Morena del Montsant (7a+), the latter being arguably easier than the former! Grades aside, they are both fab routes, really very enjoyable. I also had a look at a little 7a on the front corner of the block called Baby boom (7a) which was a totally different beast, short and thuggy on square blocks, it felt like being back in a swanage quarry! It went nicely first redpoint, it was as weird sequence to read and I don't think anybody climbs it as there was no chalk at all. The last move was a bit spicy, an off-balance throw to an undercut jug which I'm glad I caught as it would have resulted in a decent whipper.
T: Travel home, boo!
F: Fantasize about fixing up a house in Margalef, bit of DIY to actually fix up my house in England
S: more DIY
S: Indoor boulder; just a relaxed session to keep active really, more incredulous shaking of the head to the local wall grades, but some half decent routes kicking about. Weirdly, the routes are 50% v4 or v3/4, then precisely 0% v5 and a handful of routes that get v6/7, not exactly a nice spread!
My goal for the holiday was ten '7' graded routes, I managed 9/10 (8 7a and 1 7a+), so I just missed out, but did dog several others so I'm quite satisfied with it. The bigger bonus is no more injuries acquired, much more of an achievement for me!
New STG and MTG's needed, i'll have a think about those.
I'm back from the land of pockets and sunshine, and aside from a serious case of post holiday blues for me and Mrs Dandan, I've miraculously managed to come home without any injuries! (I found out today that my workmates had an injury sweepstake to guess which part of me I would break)
I did my best to have some self control, there were definitely days when I could have climbed but chose to rest, and hard routes that I could have tried but chose to ignore, it's had the best possible outcome though, no new or worsening injuries, a still respectable tick list and no regrets about pushing too hard.
Margalef was just fantastic, I enjoyed the style a lot more than I thought I would, I expected to spend a lot of days driving to more familiar territory at Siurana but in the end we only went out of the Margalef valleys thrice all holiday.
The house we stayed in was absolutely amazing, if you want to step it up a notch from the refuge (which I hear is also very good) or have young children and need a bit of space, then speak to Holly and Mac at Casa Catalunya, theirs has to be the nicest house in town.
M: Rest, I could have climbed but instead just belayed at Raco de la finestre, I was aching a bit and the weather was a little iffy so I didn't want to risk it.
T: Rest, enforced this time as it hammered down all day, the road outside the house became a river!
W: Siuranella, specifically Es Cargol, the big pillar of rock sticking off the main wall by El Pati, some fantastic 40m climbs, the grades are pretty questionable (read soft as hell) but onsighted Purgandus populus (L1+L2) (7a) and La Morena del Montsant (7a+), the latter being arguably easier than the former! Grades aside, they are both fab routes, really very enjoyable. I also had a look at a little 7a on the front corner of the block called Baby boom (7a) which was a totally different beast, short and thuggy on square blocks, it felt like being back in a swanage quarry! It went nicely first redpoint, it was as weird sequence to read and I don't think anybody climbs it as there was no chalk at all. The last move was a bit spicy, an off-balance throw to an undercut jug which I'm glad I caught as it would have resulted in a decent whipper.
T: Travel home, boo!
F: Fantasize about fixing up a house in Margalef, bit of DIY to actually fix up my house in England
S: more DIY
S: Indoor boulder; just a relaxed session to keep active really, more incredulous shaking of the head to the local wall grades, but some half decent routes kicking about. Weirdly, the routes are 50% v4 or v3/4, then precisely 0% v5 and a handful of routes that get v6/7, not exactly a nice spread!
My goal for the holiday was ten '7' graded routes, I managed 9/10 (8 7a and 1 7a+), so I just missed out, but did dog several others so I'm quite satisfied with it. The bigger bonus is no more injuries acquired, much more of an achievement for me!
New STG and MTG's needed, i'll have a think about those.
Post edited at 14:06
1
In reply to alexm198:
Seem to be fully functional now (post shoulder rehab) which is great, so I've learnt about the importance of prehab and will try to apply what I've learnt consistently! Mixed bag this week, bit unstructured, I'd say quality was not great as feeling like I've had a cold, but got some reasonable activity, very happy to be fully functioning again.
Also T-1week till we leave the UK in the van! Will reset goals after first few weeks on rock and seeing how both our rehab'd limbs are coping. Will plan to keep posting when we find wifi, and keep a moderate regime going (likely TRX and fingerboard) whilst we maximise our climbing time.
M: fingerboard repeater session - 2xsets: 6 grips; each grip with 6 repeaters; 7sec on 3 sec rest. No surprise hardest were 3/4 Pad half crimp & MRP 1P open, weight on pulley to compensate, even with counterweight getting 5 rather than 6 proper repeaters on those grips. IMR 1P open, Sloper and wide/thin Pinches were actually pretty much in line with where I was 6 weeks ago when injury stopped me.
T: rest
W: rehab routine - lots of theraband + elbow/forearm rotations + forearm flexor + pressups + leg lifts + chest raises + weighted squats (+ pull-ups for first time in six weeks yay!).
Th: leading at castle: not feeling great (low energy / cold coming?). 8 routes total, interesting ones were 6c, 7a+ (love this yellow one, got it dialled now), and 7a (black, quite sustained fingery/delicate/balancey/vertical, close but not yet).
F: rehab routine - same as Wednesday
S: leading at castle: still not feeling great (cold). 10 routes, interesting ones 2x6c, 1x7a (beige, off last move to chain), started new 7a+ (green upstairs) project which was really hard and fingery almost bolt to bolt learning and flailing.
Su: TRX session. First time. Having bought some cheap rings the plan is to take in the van and use whilst travelling. Quite hard work but in a good way; body saw, side plank hip raise, overhead squat, clock press, I Y T, atomic push-up, pike, plank with scorpion.
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury - ongoing
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - positive
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury - ongoing
MTG:
- outdoor 7a & 7a+ RPs + try 7b in 2016
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks
- leave job, leave country, climb/travel in van for a year!! - first part done
BHAG:
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (following someone better than me!)
> Robin Brooke: Nice work on the 7a's and the 7a+!
Thanks AlexSeem to be fully functional now (post shoulder rehab) which is great, so I've learnt about the importance of prehab and will try to apply what I've learnt consistently! Mixed bag this week, bit unstructured, I'd say quality was not great as feeling like I've had a cold, but got some reasonable activity, very happy to be fully functioning again.
Also T-1week till we leave the UK in the van! Will reset goals after first few weeks on rock and seeing how both our rehab'd limbs are coping. Will plan to keep posting when we find wifi, and keep a moderate regime going (likely TRX and fingerboard) whilst we maximise our climbing time.
M: fingerboard repeater session - 2xsets: 6 grips; each grip with 6 repeaters; 7sec on 3 sec rest. No surprise hardest were 3/4 Pad half crimp & MRP 1P open, weight on pulley to compensate, even with counterweight getting 5 rather than 6 proper repeaters on those grips. IMR 1P open, Sloper and wide/thin Pinches were actually pretty much in line with where I was 6 weeks ago when injury stopped me.
T: rest
W: rehab routine - lots of theraband + elbow/forearm rotations + forearm flexor + pressups + leg lifts + chest raises + weighted squats (+ pull-ups for first time in six weeks yay!).
Th: leading at castle: not feeling great (low energy / cold coming?). 8 routes total, interesting ones were 6c, 7a+ (love this yellow one, got it dialled now), and 7a (black, quite sustained fingery/delicate/balancey/vertical, close but not yet).
F: rehab routine - same as Wednesday
S: leading at castle: still not feeling great (cold). 10 routes, interesting ones 2x6c, 1x7a (beige, off last move to chain), started new 7a+ (green upstairs) project which was really hard and fingery almost bolt to bolt learning and flailing.
Su: TRX session. First time. Having bought some cheap rings the plan is to take in the van and use whilst travelling. Quite hard work but in a good way; body saw, side plank hip raise, overhead squat, clock press, I Y T, atomic push-up, pike, plank with scorpion.
STG:
- rehab shoulder impingement injury - ongoing
- consolidate indoor 7a and 7a+ indoor RP's - positive
- get Girlfriend recovered from her Achilles tendon injury - ongoing
MTG:
- outdoor 7a & 7a+ RPs + try 7b in 2016
- plenty of long adventurous multi-pitch and cracks
- leave job, leave country, climb/travel in van for a year!! - first part done
BHAG:
- The Nose, 900m, 5.9 / C2
- Freerider, 900m, 7c (following someone better than me!)
Post edited at 14:22
In reply to alexm198:
Back from Font now. As always was a fun trip. I go with the family and the local climbing club. It's a very mixed ability group, which normally means me going off for a couple of hours and climbing on my own or joining random groups. Font was really quiet this week.
Mon at 95.2. I spent good part of the day playing with the kids. In the early evening, I tried Retour aux Sources (f7A) but it was still quite hot. I really enjoyed this problem and would definitely want to come back to it. Met a group of climbers from Milton Keynes who invited us over to the Rudeboy boulders. I gave a few goes to Duel dans la Lune (f6C) trying my own drop knee beta to no avail. Someone suggested a toe hook, which made the problem much easier and it went next go. Unfortunately no time to try Rudeboy itself. Certainly one to go back to.
Tues. I took our son to Playmobil funpark for the day to let my wife climb. I went out at 7pm for a quick session in Gorge Aux Ch£ts. After a warm up made really quick progress on Sa Pelle au Logis (f7A). I've tried this twice before but thought that the top move was pretty on/off and not had the beans to link all the moves. It felt fairly easy this time, which I attribute mainly to improved core. Was really pleased with this session.
Wed at Sabots. Slow warm up feeling a bit stiff then some nice ticks of Chapeau Chinois (f6B), Legalize This (f7A) and Graviton (f7A). I was pretty pleased with this day. Legalize this is a dyno and not really my style, but it had a flat landing and a predictable fall so I felt pretty happy doing this on my own. I joined a group of Germans for Graviton and thanks to their beta and encouragement got it really quickly, on my second attempt using the heel hook method.
Thurs at Hautes Plaines. This should have been a rest day. We spent a good amount of time lugging mats about due to missunderstanding about venues. My wife climbed first and I tried later. I didn't really warm up well, and jumped onto the Coquille. My right elbow and bicep were having none of it and I sacked it off. It also started raining and the patisserie was calling.
Friday. I had the rest day that I should have had the day before. I did do La Marie Rose (Red 22) (f6A). A group of climbers from our club were trying it and after giving beta, I felt that I had to give it a go (or 3). I've now done it in 2014, 2015 and 2016.
Saturday. We had time for a quick session at Gorge Aux Ch£ts before returning to the UK. I made a quick job of Arachnée (Red 32) (f6B) and Un Franc du Kilomètre (f7A) (which I thought was crazily soft - but did suit my style).
All in all a fun trip to Font. I have a few things to take away for next year. Firstly, not to get to concerned about performing on a family trip. I hadn't done any outdoor bouldering this year, so should have taken the first two days easier and just got used to climbing in Font. I should have been more proactive in taking a rest day before I felt trashed not as soon as. What's probably more interesting than what I climbed is what I didn't. I would really like to get the Coquille on my next trip. I have real problems with the move at 30 seconds in this video youtube.com/watch?v=QwvVntiMtqk& I'm not sure what the problem is, but I don't think I can pull in with the right foot. I also felt quite far from Retour aux Sources, I think the problem here was really pulling in with the heel hooks. Definitely this is an area to work on.
STG (April) I don't have much free time for climbing outdoors, but certainly want to get some sport climbing in the Peak done. The idea would be for one or two quick RPs before trying the MTG.
MTG (May - June) Have a couple of sessions on a few 8a routes before settling on something to work as a first 8a. The only 8a that I've tried is The Sissy (8a), which I didn't find very inspiring and couldn't do the hard move. Likely options are Aberration (8a) or The Call of Nature (8a)
Back from Font now. As always was a fun trip. I go with the family and the local climbing club. It's a very mixed ability group, which normally means me going off for a couple of hours and climbing on my own or joining random groups. Font was really quiet this week.
Mon at 95.2. I spent good part of the day playing with the kids. In the early evening, I tried Retour aux Sources (f7A) but it was still quite hot. I really enjoyed this problem and would definitely want to come back to it. Met a group of climbers from Milton Keynes who invited us over to the Rudeboy boulders. I gave a few goes to Duel dans la Lune (f6C) trying my own drop knee beta to no avail. Someone suggested a toe hook, which made the problem much easier and it went next go. Unfortunately no time to try Rudeboy itself. Certainly one to go back to.
Tues. I took our son to Playmobil funpark for the day to let my wife climb. I went out at 7pm for a quick session in Gorge Aux Ch£ts. After a warm up made really quick progress on Sa Pelle au Logis (f7A). I've tried this twice before but thought that the top move was pretty on/off and not had the beans to link all the moves. It felt fairly easy this time, which I attribute mainly to improved core. Was really pleased with this session.
Wed at Sabots. Slow warm up feeling a bit stiff then some nice ticks of Chapeau Chinois (f6B), Legalize This (f7A) and Graviton (f7A). I was pretty pleased with this day. Legalize this is a dyno and not really my style, but it had a flat landing and a predictable fall so I felt pretty happy doing this on my own. I joined a group of Germans for Graviton and thanks to their beta and encouragement got it really quickly, on my second attempt using the heel hook method.
Thurs at Hautes Plaines. This should have been a rest day. We spent a good amount of time lugging mats about due to missunderstanding about venues. My wife climbed first and I tried later. I didn't really warm up well, and jumped onto the Coquille. My right elbow and bicep were having none of it and I sacked it off. It also started raining and the patisserie was calling.
Friday. I had the rest day that I should have had the day before. I did do La Marie Rose (Red 22) (f6A). A group of climbers from our club were trying it and after giving beta, I felt that I had to give it a go (or 3). I've now done it in 2014, 2015 and 2016.
Saturday. We had time for a quick session at Gorge Aux Ch£ts before returning to the UK. I made a quick job of Arachnée (Red 32) (f6B) and Un Franc du Kilomètre (f7A) (which I thought was crazily soft - but did suit my style).
All in all a fun trip to Font. I have a few things to take away for next year. Firstly, not to get to concerned about performing on a family trip. I hadn't done any outdoor bouldering this year, so should have taken the first two days easier and just got used to climbing in Font. I should have been more proactive in taking a rest day before I felt trashed not as soon as. What's probably more interesting than what I climbed is what I didn't. I would really like to get the Coquille on my next trip. I have real problems with the move at 30 seconds in this video youtube.com/watch?v=QwvVntiMtqk& I'm not sure what the problem is, but I don't think I can pull in with the right foot. I also felt quite far from Retour aux Sources, I think the problem here was really pulling in with the heel hooks. Definitely this is an area to work on.
STG (April) I don't have much free time for climbing outdoors, but certainly want to get some sport climbing in the Peak done. The idea would be for one or two quick RPs before trying the MTG.
MTG (May - June) Have a couple of sessions on a few 8a routes before settling on something to work as a first 8a. The only 8a that I've tried is The Sissy (8a), which I didn't find very inspiring and couldn't do the hard move. Likely options are Aberration (8a) or The Call of Nature (8a)
Post edited at 14:22
1
In reply to alexm198:
Well, I'm pretty much back to normal now. I haven't done any hard running sessions and I'd still be a bit wary of L heel hooks or particularly deep drop-knees.
M - Short run (4.5km). Knee felt perfect, a bit sore on the tender new skin beneath the old blisters.. Core (short set). Fingerboard: 3 finger hangs on the 4 finger edge on the BM1000 are really hard!
T - am: 6km run, quite fast. pm: Cheddar, Sunnyside Terrace. Ticked Chalk and Cheese (7a+), quite steady after the bouldery start.
W - Rest
T - Cycle commute. Trains not running, so cycled the ~16 miles each way to Bath. Wouldn't want to do that every week! (but I'll probably do it a few more times over the summer)
F - Redpoint. Flashed the grey '7a' and ticked a yellow 7b second go.
S - Portland. P1ssed it down until about 11 but the Cuttings was bone dry when we got there around midday! 3 times up Hall of Mirrors (7c), think I got a sequence but ran out of skin and energy for a decent attempt at putting it together. Chased the sun round to Battleship Edge and got shut down on a 7a. Still a good day
S - Rest. Felt worked after Saturday!
Weight: 66.2kg
STG
Sub 40 in Bristol 10k. I think this is still achievable despite a bit of a break in the training. Just need to get some decent speed work through April.
Get on Paradise Lost (7b). I've been talking about this for years! I think now is the time to have a go, before the restrictions come in in July.
MTG
Keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
Sub 90 in Bristol half (September)
LTG
varied E5 onsights
Get out to Orkney with The Fox
Snowdonia marathon. I'll be up at midnight next New Year!
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell: Great news from the physio! Exactly how "easy" do you have to take it?
Well, I'm pretty much back to normal now. I haven't done any hard running sessions and I'd still be a bit wary of L heel hooks or particularly deep drop-knees.
M - Short run (4.5km). Knee felt perfect, a bit sore on the tender new skin beneath the old blisters.. Core (short set). Fingerboard: 3 finger hangs on the 4 finger edge on the BM1000 are really hard!
T - am: 6km run, quite fast. pm: Cheddar, Sunnyside Terrace. Ticked Chalk and Cheese (7a+), quite steady after the bouldery start.
W - Rest
T - Cycle commute. Trains not running, so cycled the ~16 miles each way to Bath. Wouldn't want to do that every week! (but I'll probably do it a few more times over the summer)
F - Redpoint. Flashed the grey '7a' and ticked a yellow 7b second go.
S - Portland. P1ssed it down until about 11 but the Cuttings was bone dry when we got there around midday! 3 times up Hall of Mirrors (7c), think I got a sequence but ran out of skin and energy for a decent attempt at putting it together. Chased the sun round to Battleship Edge and got shut down on a 7a. Still a good day
S - Rest. Felt worked after Saturday!
Weight: 66.2kg
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
In reply to Nick Russell:
I definitely need some mileage first, but would be very keen for a go at this and Bird of Paradise some time this year...
> Get on Paradise Lost (7b). I've been talking about this for years! I think now is the time to have a go, before the restrictions come in in July.
I definitely need some mileage first, but would be very keen for a go at this and Bird of Paradise some time this year...
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Judging by the trail map the Karrimor looks like the Dragon's Back? If it is then that shares pretty much the same sections as the Beast but not quite as long. As far as I'm aware the Beast just covers all sections of all other trails with a bit more distance / fireroad linking it all together. But I could be wrong?
Judging by the trail map the Karrimor looks like the Dragon's Back? If it is then that shares pretty much the same sections as the Beast but not quite as long. As far as I'm aware the Beast just covers all sections of all other trails with a bit more distance / fireroad linking it all together. But I could be wrong?
In reply to alexm198:
It's what I've been missing for about 2 years as I lost direction so I'm hoping it's coming back. We'll see, no pressure.
> stevemarkperry: psyche will carry you a long way!
It's what I've been missing for about 2 years as I lost direction so I'm hoping it's coming back. We'll see, no pressure.
In reply to stevemarkperry:
Oops - they've renamed it again!
Beast is the MBR & Dragon's back combined. The Tarw Du is the other black. Fuel up on cake in the cafe before going back out and doing the second trail, then fuel up on caffeine for the drive home!
Oops - they've renamed it again!
Beast is the MBR & Dragon's back combined. The Tarw Du is the other black. Fuel up on cake in the cafe before going back out and doing the second trail, then fuel up on caffeine for the drive home!
In reply to TonyB:
Wouldn't worry too much about finding Retour aux Sources tough. It's pretty brick hard for 7A (or 7A+?!) and very anti style vs UK wall climbing - all about shoulders and core strength.
Wouldn't worry too much about finding Retour aux Sources tough. It's pretty brick hard for 7A (or 7A+?!) and very anti style vs UK wall climbing - all about shoulders and core strength.
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Hi Robin, what do your MRP, IMR 1P etc mean? I can't work them out...
Really pleased for you that the shoulder is on the mend in time for your trip!
Hi Robin, what do your MRP, IMR 1P etc mean? I can't work them out...
Really pleased for you that the shoulder is on the mend in time for your trip!
Post edited at 17:44
In reply to alexm198:
Well, there are a few local bits I'd like to try:
- Lightning strike, which is very much not my bag style wise bit is really good
- There's some problems further down the East coast like the terrace and the stuff in the quarry down that way (night with a trucker I think might be one)
- Force Majeure down in the cave by Portland Bill
- a bunch of stuff on the Dragon boulder at Lulworth.
And then further away the usual run of classics in the V6/7 range depending where I end up.
Not a productive week for climbing this week. Cycling, back at work and holiday comedown wiped me a bit. Cycling feels very hard but I've been adding challenges to my route despite failing to do any longer rides due to workload.
Have to actually do the benchmarking Tom suggested this week, and hopefully some longer rides and a weekend climbing as well.
> AJM: Nice, have you solidified any bouldering projects for back in the UK?
Well, there are a few local bits I'd like to try:
- Lightning strike, which is very much not my bag style wise bit is really good
- There's some problems further down the East coast like the terrace and the stuff in the quarry down that way (night with a trucker I think might be one)
- Force Majeure down in the cave by Portland Bill
- a bunch of stuff on the Dragon boulder at Lulworth.
And then further away the usual run of classics in the V6/7 range depending where I end up.
Not a productive week for climbing this week. Cycling, back at work and holiday comedown wiped me a bit. Cycling feels very hard but I've been adding challenges to my route despite failing to do any longer rides due to workload.
Have to actually do the benchmarking Tom suggested this week, and hopefully some longer rides and a weekend climbing as well.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. Setting my sights low this week.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
1 core session
1 climb
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - 1 hour fencing + core workout
T - Rest
W - 1 hour fencing
T - 1 hour fencing
F - 1 hour fencing
S - 4 hours fencing
S - 4 hours fencing
Still trudging away at finishing the fencing. It's nearly done now. Just got to finish rebuilding part of the wall. Then that's pretty much it. I'll hopefully be able to get a evening's climbing in then. Got the core session done, but not the second one. Oh well.
Thanks Alex. Setting my sights low this week.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
1 core session
1 climb
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - 1 hour fencing + core workout
T - Rest
W - 1 hour fencing
T - 1 hour fencing
F - 1 hour fencing
S - 4 hours fencing
S - 4 hours fencing
Still trudging away at finishing the fencing. It's nearly done now. Just got to finish rebuilding part of the wall. Then that's pretty much it. I'll hopefully be able to get a evening's climbing in then. Got the core session done, but not the second one. Oh well.
Post edited at 20:15
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. No report from me last week. I started doing it on my phone (I was in N.Wales) on Sunday but then my battery conked out just before I was about to finish! Couldn't face starting again on a little screen!
M 28/3 - RUN - 7.9 km 200m ascent
T 29/3 - RUN - 10.1 km 285m ascent
W
Th 31/3 - CYCLE - 7km flat
Th 31/3 - RUN - 5.8km 150m ascent
- - - - End of Month targets. Run target met (1611m/1500m)
Trip to North/Mid Wales (with family and friends)
S 3/4 - RUN - 8.7km 175m ascent
S 3/4 - CYCLE along the Mawddach trail with family 13.5km flat
S 3/4 - WALK - 4km 175m ascent
M 4/4 - MTB - 16.7km ascent 440m
T 5/4 - HIKE - The Cadair Idris Minffordd path - approx. 11.5km 900m ascent
W 6/4 - MTB - 21km 564m ascent
It was all going so well but then I got a sore throat and cold so been resting up since Wednesday!
Another hard week at work coming up and shocking weather forecasts. Hopefully, cold will clear up and I can get up and running again.
Thanks Alex. No report from me last week. I started doing it on my phone (I was in N.Wales) on Sunday but then my battery conked out just before I was about to finish! Couldn't face starting again on a little screen!
M 28/3 - RUN - 7.9 km 200m ascent
T 29/3 - RUN - 10.1 km 285m ascent
W
Th 31/3 - CYCLE - 7km flat
Th 31/3 - RUN - 5.8km 150m ascent
- - - - End of Month targets. Run target met (1611m/1500m)
Trip to North/Mid Wales (with family and friends)
S 3/4 - RUN - 8.7km 175m ascent
S 3/4 - CYCLE along the Mawddach trail with family 13.5km flat
S 3/4 - WALK - 4km 175m ascent
M 4/4 - MTB - 16.7km ascent 440m
T 5/4 - HIKE - The Cadair Idris Minffordd path - approx. 11.5km 900m ascent
W 6/4 - MTB - 21km 564m ascent
It was all going so well but then I got a sore throat and cold so been resting up since Wednesday!
Another hard week at work coming up and shocking weather forecasts. Hopefully, cold will clear up and I can get up and running again.
In reply to Si dH:
Thanks Si - me too!! These acronyms are just references to fingers and depth on the fingerboard, as follows:
MRP = Middle Ring Pinky (back 3)
IMR = Index Middle Ring (front 3)
1P = 1 pad depth or about 25mm
¾ Pad = about 18mm
I use the BM1000 (fairly new to finger strength training), the work for me is on the 1P pockets and ¾ Pad edge, I use the deeper 2P pockets for warming up. I also use separate homemade 3"x1" wood blocks with weight hung from them for pinches (wide 3"/thin 1"). I'm no where near as strong as your stats that's for sure, at my best I'm on BW, but mostly have a small amount of counterweight via pulley, small steps an all that.
I have bought an Awesome Woody Cliff Board (finger board you can hang from a tree) and hope to maintain some basic work during the trip so hopefully will continue to see some progress on finger strength over the year. I'll have to find a way to manage without counterweight on the road, or get stronger quickly.
> Hi Robin, what do your MRP, IMR 1P etc mean? I can't work them out...
> Really pleased for you that the shoulder is on the mend in time for your trip!
> Really pleased for you that the shoulder is on the mend in time for your trip!
Thanks Si - me too!! These acronyms are just references to fingers and depth on the fingerboard, as follows:
MRP = Middle Ring Pinky (back 3)
IMR = Index Middle Ring (front 3)
1P = 1 pad depth or about 25mm
¾ Pad = about 18mm
I use the BM1000 (fairly new to finger strength training), the work for me is on the 1P pockets and ¾ Pad edge, I use the deeper 2P pockets for warming up. I also use separate homemade 3"x1" wood blocks with weight hung from them for pinches (wide 3"/thin 1"). I'm no where near as strong as your stats that's for sure, at my best I'm on BW, but mostly have a small amount of counterweight via pulley, small steps an all that.
I have bought an Awesome Woody Cliff Board (finger board you can hang from a tree) and hope to maintain some basic work during the trip so hopefully will continue to see some progress on finger strength over the year. I'll have to find a way to manage without counterweight on the road, or get stronger quickly.
Post edited at 22:09
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Ah, gotcha!
Having a board with you sounds like a good plan, if you need to take some weight off then if nothing else it works to just put one foot on a chair and move it out in front of you to take as little weight as possible.
Due to your body angle it might feel like you want a spot in this position if the ground is hard.
Ah, gotcha!
Having a board with you sounds like a good plan, if you need to take some weight off then if nothing else it works to just put one foot on a chair and move it out in front of you to take as little weight as possible.
Due to your body angle it might feel like you want a spot in this position if the ground is hard.
1
In reply to Si dH:
I'm not worried about finding Retour hard. Should be good motivation to get strong for next year though. Perhaps it should be a long term aim.
I'm not worried about finding Retour hard. Should be good motivation to get strong for next year though. Perhaps it should be a long term aim.
In reply to robbiebrookie:
Pulley and a sling off whatever you hang the fingerboard off (a tree?) and take 1-2 plates with you (I'd rarely bother with grips where you need massive counterweight assistance - 5-10kg maybe?)
I would recommend this thoigh. I got pretty fit on the trip bit if I did it again I would try to take the supplementary strength training kit along, especially for periods where the climbing is fairly easy (mountains etc) where otherwise you basically just get weaker...
Pulley and a sling off whatever you hang the fingerboard off (a tree?) and take 1-2 plates with you (I'd rarely bother with grips where you need massive counterweight assistance - 5-10kg maybe?)
I would recommend this thoigh. I got pretty fit on the trip bit if I did it again I would try to take the supplementary strength training kit along, especially for periods where the climbing is fairly easy (mountains etc) where otherwise you basically just get weaker...
2
In reply to alexm198:
Goals Update; I've been having a think about goals and where I want to take my climbing, whilst the ever present target of 8a is still in my mind, I'd actually much rather just experience a decent period of injury-free climbing, even if it means it takes longer to get that big tick. Let's face it, rushing into trying to tick 8a hasn't exactly worked out too well so far, and I've been trying for 6 or 7 years now, if I had been able to climb constantly in that time without injury interruptions, there is much more chance that my climbing would have got to a healthy 8a level in significantly less than 7 years!
Me and Mrs Dandan are going back to Margalef in October so my medium/long term goals will be based around that, I'd like to be stronger for that trip, but as mentioned, I don't want to push too hard and risk more injury, so i'll take it steady. The good news is that I am seriously weak at the moment so increasing my strength shouldn't be all that hard!
I also spotted something super hard that I quite fancy for a BHAG, as we plan to spend more time in Margalef it seems a good place to have a long-term goal.
I'll try and keep away from too many grade-based goals as it just encourages me to potentially overreach myself, I think benchmarking exercises and endurance-based goals would be a lot safer.
My benchmarks so far are: 2rm weighted chin up, timed one-arm hang on edge tbc, 1-5-9 progress on standard rungs, can anyone suggest more? An endurance benchmark perhaps?
I had a tentative chin-up/fingerboard session last night for the first time in about a year to see how things felt, I'm pleased report it all went well from an aches and pains point of view, less well from a finger strength point of view!
It's a weird resin board in the shape of a tiki mask (I won it in a comp years ago) so not standardised beastmaker holds but the mouth is vaguely comparable to the big centre slot on the BM, I could only just hold it one handed for 7 seconds, abysmal!
STG: (this week)
climb 3 times
1 easy fingerboard session
Keep stretching, check progress of toe-touching
5x10 second free handstands
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan
Get outside a couple of times
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy moon holds for moonboard
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Goals Update; I've been having a think about goals and where I want to take my climbing, whilst the ever present target of 8a is still in my mind, I'd actually much rather just experience a decent period of injury-free climbing, even if it means it takes longer to get that big tick. Let's face it, rushing into trying to tick 8a hasn't exactly worked out too well so far, and I've been trying for 6 or 7 years now, if I had been able to climb constantly in that time without injury interruptions, there is much more chance that my climbing would have got to a healthy 8a level in significantly less than 7 years!
Me and Mrs Dandan are going back to Margalef in October so my medium/long term goals will be based around that, I'd like to be stronger for that trip, but as mentioned, I don't want to push too hard and risk more injury, so i'll take it steady. The good news is that I am seriously weak at the moment so increasing my strength shouldn't be all that hard!
I also spotted something super hard that I quite fancy for a BHAG, as we plan to spend more time in Margalef it seems a good place to have a long-term goal.
I'll try and keep away from too many grade-based goals as it just encourages me to potentially overreach myself, I think benchmarking exercises and endurance-based goals would be a lot safer.
My benchmarks so far are: 2rm weighted chin up, timed one-arm hang on edge tbc, 1-5-9 progress on standard rungs, can anyone suggest more? An endurance benchmark perhaps?
I had a tentative chin-up/fingerboard session last night for the first time in about a year to see how things felt, I'm pleased report it all went well from an aches and pains point of view, less well from a finger strength point of view!
It's a weird resin board in the shape of a tiki mask (I won it in a comp years ago) so not standardised beastmaker holds but the mouth is vaguely comparable to the big centre slot on the BM, I could only just hold it one handed for 7 seconds, abysmal!
STG: (this week)
climb 3 times
1 easy fingerboard session
Keep stretching, check progress of toe-touching
5x10 second free handstands
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan
Get outside a couple of times
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy moon holds for moonboard
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
In reply to Dandan:
That's much longer than I can hold the BM slot for one handed. I can't one arm lock at full or 90 degrees etc either.
As far as staying injury free goes personally i'd stay away from 'exercises' such as weighted pull ups to improve with your history of injury. Benchmarking is a different matter, i'm just not sure if you're looking at that sort of stuff to improve or just to benchmark.
Train with variety of routes/problems/angles/hold types etc and plenty of rest in between. I've improved a lot of late on 2 training sessions and 1 'fun' session each week. The training sessions have been very focussed though.Sorry if this is sucking eggs.
Benchmark for endurance could be foot on campus time (power/strength endurance). For proper endurance it's a bit tricky as you would want to climb at a continuous difficulty without getting pumped above a certain level for a certain time. That's quite relative.
Out of interest how far off 1-5-9 are you? Whilst coaching someone the other week I was demonstrating the form for the exercises and surprised myself by doing 1-5 on both arms. My follow through was poor though so it ended up 1-5-7. Never really campussed before so was quite surprised I could do even that.
That's much longer than I can hold the BM slot for one handed. I can't one arm lock at full or 90 degrees etc either.
As far as staying injury free goes personally i'd stay away from 'exercises' such as weighted pull ups to improve with your history of injury. Benchmarking is a different matter, i'm just not sure if you're looking at that sort of stuff to improve or just to benchmark.
Train with variety of routes/problems/angles/hold types etc and plenty of rest in between. I've improved a lot of late on 2 training sessions and 1 'fun' session each week. The training sessions have been very focussed though.Sorry if this is sucking eggs.
Benchmark for endurance could be foot on campus time (power/strength endurance). For proper endurance it's a bit tricky as you would want to climb at a continuous difficulty without getting pumped above a certain level for a certain time. That's quite relative.
Out of interest how far off 1-5-9 are you? Whilst coaching someone the other week I was demonstrating the form for the exercises and surprised myself by doing 1-5 on both arms. My follow through was poor though so it ended up 1-5-7. Never really campussed before so was quite surprised I could do even that.
In reply to Dandan:
Lapping indoor 7a 4x sounds pretty tough. Do you get any rest, or is it just the time it takes to lower?
Lapping indoor 7a 4x sounds pretty tough. Do you get any rest, or is it just the time it takes to lower?
In reply to biscuit:
Good advice, thanks!
I'm intending to use the weighted pull-ups/ one hand hangs just as benchmarks and not train them specifically, you're right, hundreds of pull ups are generally not elbow friendly for me, and lots of one-hand hanging at my current level sounds like a good route to injury, I'd much rather get all that pull up experience and improvement from lots of climbing.
I used to be able to hang a 1 pad edge (20-25mm?) one handed for 10 seconds in any lock position so I'd like to think I can improve on 7 seconds on a handle!
I'd like to do foot-on campus benchmarks but currently don't have the facilities, none of the walls I climb at have one, (welcome to the south coast) when I finally set up the campus board in the home bouldershed I will try to make a foot-on panel. Perhaps I should pull my finger out and get that done.
I don't know what I could campus right now, I've not been on a campus board in a year, but I could do 1-4-7 or 1-5-7 either arm once upon a time. Getting back to a comfortable 1-4-6 would be nice.
You are right about lots of climbing sessions though, I think that's currently key to staying healthy, lots of specific exercise to build conditioning and ramp up slowly, matched with good antagonist work. Hardcore fingerboarding can wait!
Good advice, thanks!
I'm intending to use the weighted pull-ups/ one hand hangs just as benchmarks and not train them specifically, you're right, hundreds of pull ups are generally not elbow friendly for me, and lots of one-hand hanging at my current level sounds like a good route to injury, I'd much rather get all that pull up experience and improvement from lots of climbing.
I used to be able to hang a 1 pad edge (20-25mm?) one handed for 10 seconds in any lock position so I'd like to think I can improve on 7 seconds on a handle!
I'd like to do foot-on campus benchmarks but currently don't have the facilities, none of the walls I climb at have one, (welcome to the south coast) when I finally set up the campus board in the home bouldershed I will try to make a foot-on panel. Perhaps I should pull my finger out and get that done.
I don't know what I could campus right now, I've not been on a campus board in a year, but I could do 1-4-7 or 1-5-7 either arm once upon a time. Getting back to a comfortable 1-4-6 would be nice.
You are right about lots of climbing sessions though, I think that's currently key to staying healthy, lots of specific exercise to build conditioning and ramp up slowly, matched with good antagonist work. Hardcore fingerboarding can wait!
In reply to TonyB:
Oh I don't know, I could probably lap steep 6c 4 times right now and I consider myself very out of shape, I guess it depends a lot of the grading of the wall, there is such variation around but I've managed it in the past in more than one climbing wall so I think it's achievable.
This is based on climbing the route clean, quick lower off, untie, re-tie and climb, so probably 30 sec rest in between laps.
Oh I don't know, I could probably lap steep 6c 4 times right now and I consider myself very out of shape, I guess it depends a lot of the grading of the wall, there is such variation around but I've managed it in the past in more than one climbing wall so I think it's achievable.
This is based on climbing the route clean, quick lower off, untie, re-tie and climb, so probably 30 sec rest in between laps.
In reply to Dandan:
4 laps of 7a still sound pretty impressive. I've been doing double laps at 7a on our circuit board. I find the 2x7a pretty tough, and can't imagine knocking out a third lap. But as you say it probably depends on wall and I would have thought that even 30s of rest could help.
4 laps of 7a still sound pretty impressive. I've been doing double laps at 7a on our circuit board. I find the 2x7a pretty tough, and can't imagine knocking out a third lap. But as you say it probably depends on wall and I would have thought that even 30s of rest could help.
In reply to TonyB:
yeah it's the 30 seconds rest that makes it possible, if I had access to a 7a circuit, I would imagine that 4 continuous laps of that would be significantly harder!
yeah it's the 30 seconds rest that makes it possible, if I had access to a 7a circuit, I would imagine that 4 continuous laps of that would be significantly harder!
In reply to alexm198:
Just about! Though it was at the weekend so it doesn't really count...
Forgot I had laser eye surgery scheduled for last week so a few activities were curtailed as I couldn't risk a fall - not too bad, though.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Aerobic - 6.5 hours Z1 ( including debt from previous week, and 25 mins Z2 )
Managed 5 hours due to an epic trail run in the Lakes, but all at the end of the week which wasn't ideal.
Strength and Conditioning - increase to 3 circuits
Done!
Bouldering - indoor or outdoor circuits depending on weather
Routes - 4 routes at HVS. Need to stop pottering around at VS or I'll never get those MTGs
Routes - 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor.
No climbing this week due to recovery from eye surgery. Really looking forward to getting back on the rock sans-glasses, though.
This week's goals:
* Shoulder rehab. I think the turkish getup exercise is really helping with this - benchmark my one-handed axe hang to see what the status is.
* Strength and Conditioning. Keep at 3 sets, but move to a hypertrophy protocol which means a greater emphasis on fatiguing the muscles.
* Aerobic. 4 hours 40 minutes of Z1 plus 30 minutes Z2
* Do some climbing!
** ARC - try using features for feet only in the AW Stockport Tower. 2 sets of 20 minutes
** 4 routes at HVS
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor
Transition week 5/8
Mon - Strength and Conditioning. Core warm up - Added some suspension exercises, which are pretty good.
3 sets
Turkish getup w/6kg, hang squats, wide chinup , ring dips (+5kg), pushup, uphill walking lunge w/barbell, leg raises
Tue - ARC at AW Stockport. 2 sets 20 minutes. A couple of steep juggy routes.
Wed - Eye surgery. No more glasses!
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest/Drive to Lakes
Sat - Trail Run - 20km/930m ( Borrowdale YHA to Great Gable and back )
Sun
Strength and Conditioning. Core warm up.
3 sets
Turkish getup, hang squats, wide chinup , ring dips (+5kg), pushup, uphill walking lunge w/barbell (increased to 40kg), leg raises
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall: did you manage to pile that aerobic deficit into this week?
Just about! Though it was at the weekend so it doesn't really count...
Forgot I had laser eye surgery scheduled for last week so a few activities were curtailed as I couldn't risk a fall - not too bad, though.
STG
Last weeks goals -
Aerobic - 6.5 hours Z1 ( including debt from previous week, and 25 mins Z2 )
Managed 5 hours due to an epic trail run in the Lakes, but all at the end of the week which wasn't ideal.
Strength and Conditioning - increase to 3 circuits
Done!
Bouldering - indoor or outdoor circuits depending on weather
Routes - 4 routes at HVS. Need to stop pottering around at VS or I'll never get those MTGs
Routes - 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor.
No climbing this week due to recovery from eye surgery. Really looking forward to getting back on the rock sans-glasses, though.
This week's goals:
* Shoulder rehab. I think the turkish getup exercise is really helping with this - benchmark my one-handed axe hang to see what the status is.
* Strength and Conditioning. Keep at 3 sets, but move to a hypertrophy protocol which means a greater emphasis on fatiguing the muscles.
* Aerobic. 4 hours 40 minutes of Z1 plus 30 minutes Z2
* Do some climbing!
** ARC - try using features for feet only in the AW Stockport Tower. 2 sets of 20 minutes
** 4 routes at HVS
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor
Transition week 5/8
Mon - Strength and Conditioning. Core warm up - Added some suspension exercises, which are pretty good.
3 sets
Turkish getup w/6kg, hang squats, wide chinup , ring dips (+5kg), pushup, uphill walking lunge w/barbell, leg raises
Tue - ARC at AW Stockport. 2 sets 20 minutes. A couple of steep juggy routes.
Wed - Eye surgery. No more glasses!
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest/Drive to Lakes
Sat - Trail Run - 20km/930m ( Borrowdale YHA to Great Gable and back )
Sun
Strength and Conditioning. Core warm up.
3 sets
Turkish getup, hang squats, wide chinup , ring dips (+5kg), pushup, uphill walking lunge w/barbell (increased to 40kg), leg raises
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to Dandan:
Not abysmal in the slightest - i doubt i could do this, yet i'm strong enough for short 7C, long 8A and f8b-ish at the moment. Similar with your 1-5-9 benchmark; i can just about do 1-4-6 on the medium rungs (strong side only)
IMHO if you continue down an avenue of considering yourself weak, and thus over concentrating on strength based work there is a good chance you'll spanner yourself again in some way...
> My benchmarks so far are: 2rm weighted chin up, timed one-arm hang on edge tbc, 1-5-9 progress on standard rungs, can anyone suggest more? An endurance benchmark perhaps?
> ...is vaguely comparable to the big centre slot on the BM, I could only just hold it one handed for 7 seconds, abysmal!
Not abysmal in the slightest - i doubt i could do this, yet i'm strong enough for short 7C, long 8A and f8b-ish at the moment. Similar with your 1-5-9 benchmark; i can just about do 1-4-6 on the medium rungs (strong side only)
IMHO if you continue down an avenue of considering yourself weak, and thus over concentrating on strength based work there is a good chance you'll spanner yourself again in some way...
> STG: (this week)
> 5x10 second free handstands
How does this have any relevance to your climbing goals?> MTG: (next couple of months)
> Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them
Get some better bench-marks. Less number chasing - how about aiming to climb an outdoor slab/vertical/technical f7b with panache? > Get outside a couple of times
Rewind... How about get outside a couple of times a week? Commit to becoming a better climber, not a stronger climber> Lap indoor 7a 4 times
You'd be much better off stating "lap grade x 4times aerobically even if that grade if only f6bPost edited at 16:39
5
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, some food for thought there!
Are you sure you are thinking of the same beastmaker hold as me though? I don't mean the small edge in the middle, I mean the deep handle you can sink up to your knuckles in, (it may not be in the middle, my memory is not my strong point) basically the biggest slot on the board?
I don't consider myself weak, just considerably weaker than I have been in the past. I've definitely moved on from being obsessed with power, but I want to use the benchmarks to at least get myself back to where I have comfortably been in the past, I don't mind how long it takes, I do want to do it safely.
The handstands are loosely relevant to my climbing goals, having an antagonist goal keeps my antagonist exercises interesting, therefore hopefully keeping my muscles balanced, reducing injury and allowing more climbing! Plus I find them a lot of fun
The thing about the strength based benchmarks is that they are quantifiable, and I find stats help to motivate me! Climbing a route with panache is very subjective and its more difficult to measure gains, plus I don't want to use up my limited outdoor time perfecting a route of a style that I'm not that bothered about, which brings me to my next point:-
I can't get outside more often, I'd love to but it's just not happening. I work away from home, in the Midlands, its a climbing deadzone.
When I get home at the weekend, my wife understandably wants to see me, between these two things and a paragraph i just deleted explaining why I don't have the time because it was boring drivel, trust me, call me lazy or not committed enough, but I don't have the time!
I don't mind that much, I quite enjoy indoor climbing, I can still get motivated on plastic, and I'm honestly not that concerned about becoming a more rounded climber, I know what kind of climbing I like and I'm happy to stick to that. I can't do cracks, I can't do offwidths or chimneys, I can't do slabs, but I can train to be better on limestone sport routes without doing any of those things and that's OK by me.
If anyone knows of any climbing vaguely close to the top of the M40 then of course I'd be more than happy to change my ways!
As far as lapping as hard a route as possible aerobically goes, I find it very hard to judge between energy systems, but I'd certainly give it a go.
I feel like I've just tried to argue against all your points, which isn't my intention, I just wanted to add some of my reasoning behind my thoughts. I do think more endurance benchmarks would be good so ideas would be welcome.
I think we both agree that I just need to climb lots right now, rock being preferable over plastic but I'll take whatever I can get!
Cheers Ally, some food for thought there!
Are you sure you are thinking of the same beastmaker hold as me though? I don't mean the small edge in the middle, I mean the deep handle you can sink up to your knuckles in, (it may not be in the middle, my memory is not my strong point) basically the biggest slot on the board?
I don't consider myself weak, just considerably weaker than I have been in the past. I've definitely moved on from being obsessed with power, but I want to use the benchmarks to at least get myself back to where I have comfortably been in the past, I don't mind how long it takes, I do want to do it safely.
The handstands are loosely relevant to my climbing goals, having an antagonist goal keeps my antagonist exercises interesting, therefore hopefully keeping my muscles balanced, reducing injury and allowing more climbing! Plus I find them a lot of fun
The thing about the strength based benchmarks is that they are quantifiable, and I find stats help to motivate me! Climbing a route with panache is very subjective and its more difficult to measure gains, plus I don't want to use up my limited outdoor time perfecting a route of a style that I'm not that bothered about, which brings me to my next point:-
I can't get outside more often, I'd love to but it's just not happening. I work away from home, in the Midlands, its a climbing deadzone.
When I get home at the weekend, my wife understandably wants to see me, between these two things and a paragraph i just deleted explaining why I don't have the time because it was boring drivel, trust me, call me lazy or not committed enough, but I don't have the time!
I don't mind that much, I quite enjoy indoor climbing, I can still get motivated on plastic, and I'm honestly not that concerned about becoming a more rounded climber, I know what kind of climbing I like and I'm happy to stick to that. I can't do cracks, I can't do offwidths or chimneys, I can't do slabs, but I can train to be better on limestone sport routes without doing any of those things and that's OK by me.
If anyone knows of any climbing vaguely close to the top of the M40 then of course I'd be more than happy to change my ways!
As far as lapping as hard a route as possible aerobically goes, I find it very hard to judge between energy systems, but I'd certainly give it a go.
I feel like I've just tried to argue against all your points, which isn't my intention, I just wanted to add some of my reasoning behind my thoughts. I do think more endurance benchmarks would be good so ideas would be welcome.
I think we both agree that I just need to climb lots right now, rock being preferable over plastic but I'll take whatever I can get!
In reply to Dandan:
I totally see that lapping a route aerobically is an important part of training. I'm not sure that lapping as hard a route as possible aerobically is a good training goal. Firstly, you can't know how much you are in the aerobic zone. Secondly, I think trying to do as hard as possible aerobic climbing encourages you to push the boundary and step into AeroPow. I also climb mostly indoors due to work, family and location. I'm keen to set some training goals or at least milestones. I think there certainly are ones that are good. E.g. find a boulder problem you can just do and repeat it x times with y seconds rest between attempts. But in my opinion aerobic climbing doesn't lend itself to goals setting, other than the goal of doing x sessions or x minutes per week.
On a slightly different note I can hold the massive middle slot of my BM2000 one handed for 10 seconds with 12.5kg. That's almost 120% of bodyweight. I can't lock off at 90 degrees on it without assistance. Currently I can hold 10 seconds locked off with -1.25kg or around 5-8 seconds with -1kg. I'm not sure if this is useful for you, but I get the impression from your profile that we climb at relatively similar standards and both have the goal of climbing 8a. I don't think I'm over strong, but finger strength is almost certainly not my limiting factor.
I totally see that lapping a route aerobically is an important part of training. I'm not sure that lapping as hard a route as possible aerobically is a good training goal. Firstly, you can't know how much you are in the aerobic zone. Secondly, I think trying to do as hard as possible aerobic climbing encourages you to push the boundary and step into AeroPow. I also climb mostly indoors due to work, family and location. I'm keen to set some training goals or at least milestones. I think there certainly are ones that are good. E.g. find a boulder problem you can just do and repeat it x times with y seconds rest between attempts. But in my opinion aerobic climbing doesn't lend itself to goals setting, other than the goal of doing x sessions or x minutes per week.
On a slightly different note I can hold the massive middle slot of my BM2000 one handed for 10 seconds with 12.5kg. That's almost 120% of bodyweight. I can't lock off at 90 degrees on it without assistance. Currently I can hold 10 seconds locked off with -1.25kg or around 5-8 seconds with -1kg. I'm not sure if this is useful for you, but I get the impression from your profile that we climb at relatively similar standards and both have the goal of climbing 8a. I don't think I'm over strong, but finger strength is almost certainly not my limiting factor.
1
In reply to TonyB:
Hmm, endurance benchmarks are tricky it seems.
So aerobic ability is important for good stamina, but like you say is difficult to benchmark it at a MAX level without simply moving to a different energy system, so how about benchmarking more of the power endurance side of things, as I think this is probably the main thing stopping me from ticking harder routes, especially longer ones.
Then perhaps timed reps of a boulder problem could be useful, especially as I have a bouldershed so don't need to worry about losing a route to a reset.
Can anyone suggest a time/number of moves/difficulty combo that might indicate good power endurance for an 8a climber?
That seems much more what I would expect from someone aiming towards 8a, I'd certainly be much happier if I could hang with that weight, and I don't think that represents an unhealthy focus on finger strength, more of an attempt to get to a fair standard for the grade.
Hmm, endurance benchmarks are tricky it seems.
So aerobic ability is important for good stamina, but like you say is difficult to benchmark it at a MAX level without simply moving to a different energy system, so how about benchmarking more of the power endurance side of things, as I think this is probably the main thing stopping me from ticking harder routes, especially longer ones.
Then perhaps timed reps of a boulder problem could be useful, especially as I have a bouldershed so don't need to worry about losing a route to a reset.
Can anyone suggest a time/number of moves/difficulty combo that might indicate good power endurance for an 8a climber?
> On a slightly different note I can hold the massive middle slot of my BM2000 one handed for 10 seconds with 12.5kg. That's almost 120% of bodyweight.
That seems much more what I would expect from someone aiming towards 8a, I'd certainly be much happier if I could hang with that weight, and I don't think that represents an unhealthy focus on finger strength, more of an attempt to get to a fair standard for the grade.
In reply to Dandan:
Like Ally, I'm pretty sure I'm in the "that's miles away from where I am" category. I think I can hang it at bodyweight for a short while but certainly not with good form or in control. My shoulders aren't up to it.
I will try to actually share the benchmarking I said I would do when I get round to doing it but my personal opinion is that in no world do you need to be stronger to climb 8a.
> That seems much more what I would expect from someone aiming towards 8a
Like Ally, I'm pretty sure I'm in the "that's miles away from where I am" category. I think I can hang it at bodyweight for a short while but certainly not with good form or in control. My shoulders aren't up to it.
I will try to actually share the benchmarking I said I would do when I get round to doing it but my personal opinion is that in no world do you need to be stronger to climb 8a.
2
In reply to AJM:
Can anyone recall what size Tom Randalls one hand hang edge is? Did he have a rough link between performance on that and max grade? (I know he has the chart comparing lattice board performance to grade, man I'd like a go on that) I seem to remember it being a pretty small edge (sub 20mm?) and a bodyweight hang only translated to high 7 or low 8 grade? Maybe I'm talking rubbish.
You are almost certainly right about the amount of strength needed to climb 8a, I'm sure it's less than most people expect, but I know I've had stronger fingers than I currently do so I feel like I'd be selling myself short if I didn't at least get back to my previous levels of strength, it certainly can't do any harm in terms of getting me up the routes.
I'm only currently planning to improve finger strength as a result of lots of climbing, and not through intensive fingerboarding, so I'm hoping that will limit the risk of injury. I'm not trying to hit a benchmark figure that may or may not guarantee me success at a certain grade, I want to benchmark my finger strength (among others) so I can track improvement. 8a certainly isn't an end goal for me, so any extra finger strength is going to come in handy at some point.
Can anyone recall what size Tom Randalls one hand hang edge is? Did he have a rough link between performance on that and max grade? (I know he has the chart comparing lattice board performance to grade, man I'd like a go on that) I seem to remember it being a pretty small edge (sub 20mm?) and a bodyweight hang only translated to high 7 or low 8 grade? Maybe I'm talking rubbish.
You are almost certainly right about the amount of strength needed to climb 8a, I'm sure it's less than most people expect, but I know I've had stronger fingers than I currently do so I feel like I'd be selling myself short if I didn't at least get back to my previous levels of strength, it certainly can't do any harm in terms of getting me up the routes.
I'm only currently planning to improve finger strength as a result of lots of climbing, and not through intensive fingerboarding, so I'm hoping that will limit the risk of injury. I'm not trying to hit a benchmark figure that may or may not guarantee me success at a certain grade, I want to benchmark my finger strength (among others) so I can track improvement. 8a certainly isn't an end goal for me, so any extra finger strength is going to come in handy at some point.
In reply to AJM:
Ok, my memory is worse than I remember, found this on Tom's blog:
It doesn't mention how big the rung is though...
Ok, my memory is worse than I remember, found this on Tom's blog:
> Ollie started casually hanging off my client testing rung single handed – note that to hang this single handed is a score reserved to most 8b+/Font 8A climbers
It doesn't mention how big the rung is though...
In reply to Dandan:
Tom's test edge is about 20mm deep, ever so slightly incut.
Bodyweight (1-arm) on that edge = 8A or 8c (UK grades - you can get away with much less for Euro stamina routes)
You're more than strong enough for 8a.
You're also correct in saying that you can't test your max aerobic level without going into the "aero-power" regime. Tom's lattice board and offline test protocols infer your aerobic level rather than measuring VO2 max - something that is pretty meaningless for a muscle as small as your forearm.
Rather than have me and AJM pontificate about it, why not stump up some cash and have one of the offline tests done by Tom/Lattice? £100 well spent IMHO
http://latticetraining.com/performance-analysis/
Tom's test edge is about 20mm deep, ever so slightly incut.
Bodyweight (1-arm) on that edge = 8A or 8c (UK grades - you can get away with much less for Euro stamina routes)
You're more than strong enough for 8a.
You're also correct in saying that you can't test your max aerobic level without going into the "aero-power" regime. Tom's lattice board and offline test protocols infer your aerobic level rather than measuring VO2 max - something that is pretty meaningless for a muscle as small as your forearm.
Rather than have me and AJM pontificate about it, why not stump up some cash and have one of the offline tests done by Tom/Lattice? £100 well spent IMHO
http://latticetraining.com/performance-analysis/
Post edited at 11:58
1
In reply to Dandan:
I think the prescribed test edge these days is one of the holds on a bm1k, although those lattice rungs they're making have the correct size edge on them too so can double as a fingerboard. ~90% for 8a, ~95% for 8b, ~100% for 8c
I think the prescribed test edge these days is one of the holds on a bm1k, although those lattice rungs they're making have the correct size edge on them too so can double as a fingerboard. ~90% for 8a, ~95% for 8b, ~100% for 8c
In reply to alexm198:
m - resting after Baildon Boundary Way
t - Bunny Run #2 4.2k offroad on very tired legs
w - discovered pain in my shin, so icing and rest
t - more rest
f - more rest starting to get worried
s - shin a bit better
s - instead of a 3 peaks recce, decided to do the Ikley Skyline. Felt OK initially but had to stop after 6km with excruciating pain in my right shin
Subsequent visit to the physio reveals I have shin splints. Have been prescribed no running for three weeks followed by a gradual build up of distance after that. To say I'm a bit pissed off about this is an understatement. No Three Peaks Race for me this year
> hokkyokusei: manage to get out for a three peaks recce?
m - resting after Baildon Boundary Way
t - Bunny Run #2 4.2k offroad on very tired legs
w - discovered pain in my shin, so icing and rest
t - more rest
f - more rest starting to get worried
s - shin a bit better
s - instead of a 3 peaks recce, decided to do the Ikley Skyline. Felt OK initially but had to stop after 6km with excruciating pain in my right shin
Subsequent visit to the physio reveals I have shin splints. Have been prescribed no running for three weeks followed by a gradual build up of distance after that. To say I'm a bit pissed off about this is an understatement. No Three Peaks Race for me this year
In reply to Ally Smith:
It is very tempting, in fact I'm visiting friends in Sheffield in July/August, maybe I could book an assessment on the actual board...
> Rather than have me and AJM pontificate about it, why not stump up some cash and have one of the offline tests done by Tom/Lattice? £100 well spent IMHO
It is very tempting, in fact I'm visiting friends in Sheffield in July/August, maybe I could book an assessment on the actual board...
In reply to Dandan:
Churnet valley, Wye valley, Shropshore area are all within about 1hr15 from there? That's doable in an evening through the summer if you can finish worl by 6ish.
> If anyone knows of any climbing vaguely close to the top of the M40 then of course I'd be more than happy to change my ways!
Churnet valley, Wye valley, Shropshore area are all within about 1hr15 from there? That's doable in an evening through the summer if you can finish worl by 6ish.
In reply to Si dH:
I remember looking when I applied for a job in Wythall once and I reckoned Huntsham would have been a goer for an evening dependent on the state of the M42/M5 junction because it's motorway almost all the way there as the M50 is so close to it.
I remember looking when I applied for a job in Wythall once and I reckoned Huntsham would have been a goer for an evening dependent on the state of the M42/M5 junction because it's motorway almost all the way there as the M50 is so close to it.
In reply to Ally Smith, AJM and Dandan82:
One arm hanging an 18mm - 20mm edge is a completely different test from hanging the big jug in the middle of a bm2k, especially if not locked off. The former is very hard because you'll be forced in to a half crimp and needing to control a lot of twist on little contact surface area. The latter is not hugely different from hanging a chin up bar. The two measures are completely irrelevant to each other. To imply that being able to hang the big hold fpr a while means you are strong enough to climb 8a is also wrong in my view, as it provides almost no indication of finger strength, the hold is too big. Lots of non-climbers could do it.
One arm hanging an 18mm - 20mm edge is a completely different test from hanging the big jug in the middle of a bm2k, especially if not locked off. The former is very hard because you'll be forced in to a half crimp and needing to control a lot of twist on little contact surface area. The latter is not hugely different from hanging a chin up bar. The two measures are completely irrelevant to each other. To imply that being able to hang the big hold fpr a while means you are strong enough to climb 8a is also wrong in my view, as it provides almost no indication of finger strength, the hold is too big. Lots of non-climbers could do it.
In reply to Dandan:
Just a random thought and I'm sure you've considered it, but have you had some training sessions to pin point any weaknesses? I know for me that I thought my technique was ok, but did a training session or two with John Kettle and came away with a whole bunch of things to fix/change.
Just a random thought and I'm sure you've considered it, but have you had some training sessions to pin point any weaknesses? I know for me that I thought my technique was ok, but did a training session or two with John Kettle and came away with a whole bunch of things to fix/change.
In reply to Si dH and AJM:
Huntsham is the one I looked at possibly getting to of an evening, its 1hr 20 from where I work, but the problem with the midlands is it seems every bu&&er works there but nobody lives there, every road out of the area is ridiculous around 5pm so you can add 30 minutes to the trip out at least. I work 6.30 to 5 so I try to be asleep by 10.30 if I can, that doesn't leave a huge amount of time for climbing, not to mention dinner! I could do a late one and consider it occasionally but it's not something I would be willing to do regularly, 3 hours in a car for 3 hours climbing is pretty rubbish value IMO!
Huntsham is the one I looked at possibly getting to of an evening, its 1hr 20 from where I work, but the problem with the midlands is it seems every bu&&er works there but nobody lives there, every road out of the area is ridiculous around 5pm so you can add 30 minutes to the trip out at least. I work 6.30 to 5 so I try to be asleep by 10.30 if I can, that doesn't leave a huge amount of time for climbing, not to mention dinner! I could do a late one and consider it occasionally but it's not something I would be willing to do regularly, 3 hours in a car for 3 hours climbing is pretty rubbish value IMO!
In reply to mattrm:
Yep, i've done a few sessions with Robin O'Leary, he completely turned my climbing on it's head 18 months ago, I couldn't recommend coaching enough to anyone of any level.
Yep, i've done a few sessions with Robin O'Leary, he completely turned my climbing on it's head 18 months ago, I couldn't recommend coaching enough to anyone of any level.
In reply to Si dH:
Give me some credit for intelligence Si! I'm not implying Dan is strong enough because I'm trying to compare one arm hanging the big slot on a bm2k with the one arm edge test in Toms test metric - I don't think either Ally or I are daft enough not to see that the 2 things are completely different. Let's not forget, we have both done both of them!
My rationale is that I would like to think based on my performance at Wildside that I'm now back in the kind of place where the (bottom of the) fr8s are achievable again given some time investment. Therefore the fact that I know Dan boulders harder than I do at the wall, it sounds like his shoulder strength is above mine (the one arm hangs on the big slot), his power is clearly a world away from mine (I'm with Ally - 1-4-6 on my better side, on medium rungs, is a feat I've managed a mere handful of times ever, so talk of getting back to 1-5-9 is a quantum leap away), these all suggest to me he doesnt have a strength defeciency. Ok theres nothing in there on finger strength but i know Dans done (relatively bouldery?) Cuttings 7c+ and you cant have that weak fingers for that - I wouldn't bet anything against Dan coming out with finger strength readings that trump mine as and when he does an assisted one arm test.
Maybe my premise that I'm a useful benchmark for comparison is wrong, of course, but even if it's a grade out there's enough of a gulf in our strength levels that the conclusion is still likely to hold. Especially given Ally's corroborative evidence from his own position operating a grade or two up.
Give me some credit for intelligence Si! I'm not implying Dan is strong enough because I'm trying to compare one arm hanging the big slot on a bm2k with the one arm edge test in Toms test metric - I don't think either Ally or I are daft enough not to see that the 2 things are completely different. Let's not forget, we have both done both of them!
My rationale is that I would like to think based on my performance at Wildside that I'm now back in the kind of place where the (bottom of the) fr8s are achievable again given some time investment. Therefore the fact that I know Dan boulders harder than I do at the wall, it sounds like his shoulder strength is above mine (the one arm hangs on the big slot), his power is clearly a world away from mine (I'm with Ally - 1-4-6 on my better side, on medium rungs, is a feat I've managed a mere handful of times ever, so talk of getting back to 1-5-9 is a quantum leap away), these all suggest to me he doesnt have a strength defeciency. Ok theres nothing in there on finger strength but i know Dans done (relatively bouldery?) Cuttings 7c+ and you cant have that weak fingers for that - I wouldn't bet anything against Dan coming out with finger strength readings that trump mine as and when he does an assisted one arm test.
Maybe my premise that I'm a useful benchmark for comparison is wrong, of course, but even if it's a grade out there's enough of a gulf in our strength levels that the conclusion is still likely to hold. Especially given Ally's corroborative evidence from his own position operating a grade or two up.
2
In reply to AJM:
Sorry, wasn't responding to notes on your own performance, more the general comparisons made over several posts between the two benchmarks/holds.
Perhaps reading several different people's posts in succession led me to infer something incorrectly.
Agree about that campus metric - bizarrely I am significantly stronger than Dan's metrics on the fingerboard* and am bouldering 7B quite consistently at the moment, but the idea of getting close to 1-5-9...wow. I'm very similar performance to you campusing, I've never done 1-4-7 and I sometimes fail 1-4-6.
*edit: I also find this strange since your 2 handed metrics I thought were about the same as mine, so I'd be surprised if our one armed strength was so different.
Sorry, wasn't responding to notes on your own performance, more the general comparisons made over several posts between the two benchmarks/holds.
Perhaps reading several different people's posts in succession led me to infer something incorrectly.
Agree about that campus metric - bizarrely I am significantly stronger than Dan's metrics on the fingerboard* and am bouldering 7B quite consistently at the moment, but the idea of getting close to 1-5-9...wow. I'm very similar performance to you campusing, I've never done 1-4-7 and I sometimes fail 1-4-6.
*edit: I also find this strange since your 2 handed metrics I thought were about the same as mine, so I'd be surprised if our one armed strength was so different.
Post edited at 22:10
In reply to alexm198:
Mon: Snotty.
Tues: Ditto.
Wedns: Ditto.
Thurs: Ditto.
Fri: Wall. Short boulder.
Sat: Went to wall, felt crap, went home.
Sun: Wall. Better session, working round V3-5 circuit.
Mon: Snotty.
Tues: Ditto.
Wedns: Ditto.
Thurs: Ditto.
Fri: Wall. Short boulder.
Sat: Went to wall, felt crap, went home.
Sun: Wall. Better session, working round V3-5 circuit.
In reply to Dandan:
Presumably if you have simultaneous ambitions to climb route 8a and campus 1-5-9 you are wanting to do the former in clown's shoes?
Presumably if you have simultaneous ambitions to climb route 8a and campus 1-5-9 you are wanting to do the former in clown's shoes?
3
In reply to Tyler:
Hehehe, based on my abysmal footwork that might not be much of a challenge!
I've not realistically got ambitions to do 1-5-9, I'm just using the progression towards it as a benchmark, hence, I'd like to get back to a comfortable 1-4-6 at a minimum to know that I'm in reasonable form. I'm 5'10 with a 0 ape index, I'm not sure a proper 1-5-9 should be on a list of realistic targets for me...
> Presumably if you have simultaneous ambitions to climb route 8a and campus 1-5-9 you are wanting to do the former in clown's shoes?
Hehehe, based on my abysmal footwork that might not be much of a challenge!
I've not realistically got ambitions to do 1-5-9, I'm just using the progression towards it as a benchmark, hence, I'd like to get back to a comfortable 1-4-6 at a minimum to know that I'm in reasonable form. I'm 5'10 with a 0 ape index, I'm not sure a proper 1-5-9 should be on a list of realistic targets for me...
In reply to Si dH:
If the one arm strength you mean is the big slot then I suspect my shoulders are the weak link on unassisted one arm stuff. I think i need some form of assistance to get my shoulders to engage in good form. For the 2rm pullups I think the weak link is more likely to be testing finger strength rather than shoulders.
At some point I'll maybe try Toms trick of having xkg on the counterweight and xkg in your pocket - same weight going on the fingers but allows you to engage both shoulders. A big disparity between the two might suggest something about the shoulders.
The similarity between our 2rm measures and disparity between boulder performances was one of the things that made me start thinking about a search for weaknesses - if there's a way to hit a weakness hard and get to your boulder level that BHAG will suddenly have taken a big step closer...
> *edit: I also find this strange since your 2 handed metrics I thought were about the same as mine, so I'd be surprised if our one armed strength was so different.
If the one arm strength you mean is the big slot then I suspect my shoulders are the weak link on unassisted one arm stuff. I think i need some form of assistance to get my shoulders to engage in good form. For the 2rm pullups I think the weak link is more likely to be testing finger strength rather than shoulders.
At some point I'll maybe try Toms trick of having xkg on the counterweight and xkg in your pocket - same weight going on the fingers but allows you to engage both shoulders. A big disparity between the two might suggest something about the shoulders.
The similarity between our 2rm measures and disparity between boulder performances was one of the things that made me start thinking about a search for weaknesses - if there's a way to hit a weakness hard and get to your boulder level that BHAG will suddenly have taken a big step closer...
In reply to AJM:
Quite a neat idea - I'll remember that one!
> At some point I'll maybe try Toms trick of having xkg on the counterweight and xkg in your pocket - same weight going on the fingers but allows you to engage both shoulders.
Quite a neat idea - I'll remember that one!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I think it helps isolate the fingers on the edge test for people who are approaching 100% on the fingers, plus I think it also helps control twisting/rotating having the second thing to hold.
I think it helps isolate the fingers on the edge test for people who are approaching 100% on the fingers, plus I think it also helps control twisting/rotating having the second thing to hold.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Ok, so I still need some benchmarks.
I'll stick with some of these strength benchmarks discussed, not to focus hard on training strength but just to ensure I am making improvements and getting to what is a decent level for me based on my past performances.
*2rm weighted chin up
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - target 1-4-6 both arms
Then possibly more importantly and certainly something to focus on training to improve, I need some stamina/endurance/power endurance benchmarks:
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on medium hard (v6 ish?) boulder problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
That seems like a good amount of metrics to keep track of what is improving and what isn't, any more offers?
Ok, so I still need some benchmarks.
I'll stick with some of these strength benchmarks discussed, not to focus hard on training strength but just to ensure I am making improvements and getting to what is a decent level for me based on my past performances.
*2rm weighted chin up
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - target 1-4-6 both arms
Then possibly more importantly and certainly something to focus on training to improve, I need some stamina/endurance/power endurance benchmarks:
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on medium hard (v6 ish?) boulder problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
That seems like a good amount of metrics to keep track of what is improving and what isn't, any more offers?
In reply to alexm198:
Hmm, I seem to sum up this discussion prettily nicely. I've been extremely strong in the past (8A strong) but struggled massively on sport routes. The mental game was the biggest barrier for me. I've always been a 'get from bottom to top as quickly as possible' type to mask the lack of fitness. I've now accepted routes get a lot easier (seemingly obvious) if you 'can' make the most of the rests and recovery positions. Most of which actually drained my energy in the past (as it was more time on the route). Instead of working on that very blatant weakness of on route recovery I just carried on improving my strengths regardless.
In terms of your benchmarks, at times I've been able to do more than 3 one-arm pull-ups on each arm, 60 second lock offs, 1-4-7's on the small rungs etc etc. I was still crap at sport climbing (unless it was 4 bolts long - and the hard bit was over at the second/third bolt).
M-Chorro
T-Chorro
W-Travel
T-Pottering around at the wall
F-Pottering around at the wall
S-Rest
S- Headed up to Dinbren. There was a lot of wetness but plenty dry so decided to try a route I've always seen people on but never tried. When Saturday Comes (7c). It was actually really good fun. Took 5 goes but managed to get it. Pretty keen for Dinbren at the moment.
Hmm, I seem to sum up this discussion prettily nicely. I've been extremely strong in the past (8A strong) but struggled massively on sport routes. The mental game was the biggest barrier for me. I've always been a 'get from bottom to top as quickly as possible' type to mask the lack of fitness. I've now accepted routes get a lot easier (seemingly obvious) if you 'can' make the most of the rests and recovery positions. Most of which actually drained my energy in the past (as it was more time on the route). Instead of working on that very blatant weakness of on route recovery I just carried on improving my strengths regardless.
In terms of your benchmarks, at times I've been able to do more than 3 one-arm pull-ups on each arm, 60 second lock offs, 1-4-7's on the small rungs etc etc. I was still crap at sport climbing (unless it was 4 bolts long - and the hard bit was over at the second/third bolt).
M-Chorro
T-Chorro
W-Travel
T-Pottering around at the wall
F-Pottering around at the wall
S-Rest
S- Headed up to Dinbren. There was a lot of wetness but plenty dry so decided to try a route I've always seen people on but never tried. When Saturday Comes (7c). It was actually really good fun. Took 5 goes but managed to get it. Pretty keen for Dinbren at the moment.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Just a word of warning, don't worry about trying to relate your BM hangs with the grade comparisons above. I managed Tom's rung with 5.5kg assistance, but I am using 11.25kg assistance on my BM. I assume this is because the Lattice test is 5s not 10s and that I find the rounded edge of the BM less positive than Tom's rung. Or that I tried really hard to impress Ollie during testing and am weak and lazy at home
I think max reps on a V6 boulder with 5 secs rest sounds really tough for 8a. Max laps on V4?
Just a word of warning, don't worry about trying to relate your BM hangs with the grade comparisons above. I managed Tom's rung with 5.5kg assistance, but I am using 11.25kg assistance on my BM. I assume this is because the Lattice test is 5s not 10s and that I find the rounded edge of the BM less positive than Tom's rung. Or that I tried really hard to impress Ollie during testing and am weak and lazy at home
I think max reps on a V6 boulder with 5 secs rest sounds really tough for 8a. Max laps on V4?
1
In reply to TonyB:
Fair point, i'm not looking to make any grade comparisons with any of the benchmarks, I just want to use them to map personal improvement, for now I wont rely on a score for an exercise to tell me if I'm ready to climb a specific grade.
I've made enquiries about doing a lattice board assessment in July as I'm visiting friends in Sheffield, I won't worry about grade comparisons until then, i'll just keep training to a level that feels sensible and should minimise injury.
You could well be right, it will be set on my moon board so will likely be only 5 or 6 moves long, short V6 is probably way too intense, I'll have a play around and see what feels right. I'll set a route on the official moon holds (when I suck it in and pay for a set) so I will know the grade is reasonably accurate at least.
> Just a word of warning, don't worry about trying to relate your BM hangs with the grade comparisons above.
Fair point, i'm not looking to make any grade comparisons with any of the benchmarks, I just want to use them to map personal improvement, for now I wont rely on a score for an exercise to tell me if I'm ready to climb a specific grade.
I've made enquiries about doing a lattice board assessment in July as I'm visiting friends in Sheffield, I won't worry about grade comparisons until then, i'll just keep training to a level that feels sensible and should minimise injury.
> I think max reps on a V6 boulder with 5 secs rest sounds really tough for 8a. Max laps on V4?
You could well be right, it will be set on my moon board so will likely be only 5 or 6 moves long, short V6 is probably way too intense, I'll have a play around and see what feels right. I'll set a route on the official moon holds (when I suck it in and pay for a set) so I will know the grade is reasonably accurate at least.
In reply to alexm198:
OK so my goal for last week not piss off everyone I was on holiday with (particularly my wife). This was mostly successful as I learnt to go with the flow (apart from a last day melt down) and I put my climbing ambitions to the side.
M: Chucking it down so got to go to Bruxies wall for a very short visit in the cold, got on Orient. Exceeded my high point from 2 years ago which was good as we only went for first look
T: Really bad weather so rest day
W: Sacked off Bruixes to go to Tartreau and flashed one (very easy) 7a+ and fell off another at the top (hard)
T: Walk into Gorge Rebei, well recommended rest day for anyone in the area
F: Bruxies; Orient now wet, faff to retrieve draws we'd left in on Monday. Had a quick go up Bon Vitaje as it had a situ draw to bail from (top possibly wet). First go on a TR then bolt to bolt until past the crux, then escaped the sun to visit Gurp.
S: Went to the rubbish bit of Collegats, at end of day got on a 6c+ on which I could not do the moves! By now my friend had done the next door 45m 7a+ which started up a really gnarly 6b+ so I did that and that went fine once off the 6b+ gnarlyness.
S: 4am start, delayed fight, work, collapse
OK so my goal for last week not piss off everyone I was on holiday with (particularly my wife). This was mostly successful as I learnt to go with the flow (apart from a last day melt down) and I put my climbing ambitions to the side.
M: Chucking it down so got to go to Bruxies wall for a very short visit in the cold, got on Orient. Exceeded my high point from 2 years ago which was good as we only went for first look
T: Really bad weather so rest day
W: Sacked off Bruixes to go to Tartreau and flashed one (very easy) 7a+ and fell off another at the top (hard)
T: Walk into Gorge Rebei, well recommended rest day for anyone in the area
F: Bruxies; Orient now wet, faff to retrieve draws we'd left in on Monday. Had a quick go up Bon Vitaje as it had a situ draw to bail from (top possibly wet). First go on a TR then bolt to bolt until past the crux, then escaped the sun to visit Gurp.
S: Went to the rubbish bit of Collegats, at end of day got on a 6c+ on which I could not do the moves! By now my friend had done the next door 45m 7a+ which started up a really gnarly 6b+ so I did that and that went fine once off the 6b+ gnarlyness.
S: 4am start, delayed fight, work, collapse
Post edited at 15:37
In reply to alexm198:
Erm, so it turns out I can still do 1-4-6, pretty comfortably in fact, I did a surprisingly static effort at 1-5-7 too! No excuses about lack of strength then.
That means I *really* need to work on my endurance...
Erm, so it turns out I can still do 1-4-6, pretty comfortably in fact, I did a surprisingly static effort at 1-5-7 too! No excuses about lack of strength then.
That means I *really* need to work on my endurance...
2
In reply to Dandan:
The other thing, to be fair, is just time on routes. You don't get outdoors in the week and only sometimes at weekends - its entirely possible you just need to put the time into something.....
> That means I *really* need to work on my endurance...
The other thing, to be fair, is just time on routes. You don't get outdoors in the week and only sometimes at weekends - its entirely possible you just need to put the time into something.....
In reply to AJM:
Almost certainly true and unfortunately something I just have to accept really, until I can find a more convenient job.
In fact, thinking about it, it is a common factor between all of the people I know who have climbed 8a, they all get more time on rock than me.
A couple of them are stronger than me, some have better technique, one or two might onsight or flash higher grades but all of them get more time on rock.
> The other thing, to be fair, is just time on routes. You don't get outdoors in the week and only sometimes at weekends - its entirely possible you just need to put the time into something.....
Almost certainly true and unfortunately something I just have to accept really, until I can find a more convenient job.
In fact, thinking about it, it is a common factor between all of the people I know who have climbed 8a, they all get more time on rock than me.
A couple of them are stronger than me, some have better technique, one or two might onsight or flash higher grades but all of them get more time on rock.
In reply to Dandan:
Time on rock is the key - going by your previous posts you are far stronger than me, and my technique is not exactly flawless to compensate. Any success I have is near entirely matter of, come the start of Spring, dragging my feeble carcass out to Malham and Kilnsey every weekend - weekends only is plenty if you go for it with gusto.
> In fact, thinking about it, it is a common factor between all of the people I know who have climbed 8a, they all get more time on rock than me.
> A couple of them are stronger than me, some have better technique, one or two might onsight or flash higher grades but all of them get more time on rock.
> A couple of them are stronger than me, some have better technique, one or two might onsight or flash higher grades but all of them get more time on rock.
Time on rock is the key - going by your previous posts you are far stronger than me, and my technique is not exactly flawless to compensate. Any success I have is near entirely matter of, come the start of Spring, dragging my feeble carcass out to Malham and Kilnsey every weekend - weekends only is plenty if you go for it with gusto.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for starting the thread Alex! Yes exactly that bad method, hope for some better next year. Full focus on rock now.
STG: work on this years goals (7- trad rp, 6 trad os, 7+ sport rp and 7- sport onsight). Got on my 7- trad project again, which went smooth for the first part, until I hit my elbow.
M: climbing indoor, did some bouldering first. There was a new orange (6B-6C) where I fell third move due to my hand slipping from a sloper when placing a high foot. Then went on the autobelay and onsighted a 6+/7- and came halfway up a 7-/7 and tried a dyno a couple of times on a 7+.
T: climbing outdoors, failed miserably on the warmup 7- on toprope (not so smart warming up on max grade, but that was the easiest available), then went on belaying for a long time and got quite cold. Went to try my 7- trad project again, came up smoothly to were I starded aiding last time, was little pumped so took a break. After the brake my elbow hurted a lot, so backed off and found out later I just hit something with my elbow.
W: lazy day
T: indoor climbing, went bouldering first, did the orange first try of the day. Tried some other new boulders in the orange/blue (6B-6C) circuit, but they felt to fingery, so went to autobelay. Repeated a 7-, then did Mondays 7-/7 (having never climbed the top half, really pleased with 7-/7 second go), also stuck the dyno halfway up on the 7+ and did the rest of it (also without having done it before). Met someone who could give me a belay and tried a new technical crimpy 7-, got to last clip before the top, but couldn’t do the move, maybe just too hard or I was too tired for it, will find out next time on it.
F: travel to work and 2 small skitours
S: work + small skitour
S: work+ travel home
Thanks for starting the thread Alex! Yes exactly that bad method, hope for some better next year. Full focus on rock now.
STG: work on this years goals (7- trad rp, 6 trad os, 7+ sport rp and 7- sport onsight). Got on my 7- trad project again, which went smooth for the first part, until I hit my elbow.
M: climbing indoor, did some bouldering first. There was a new orange (6B-6C) where I fell third move due to my hand slipping from a sloper when placing a high foot. Then went on the autobelay and onsighted a 6+/7- and came halfway up a 7-/7 and tried a dyno a couple of times on a 7+.
T: climbing outdoors, failed miserably on the warmup 7- on toprope (not so smart warming up on max grade, but that was the easiest available), then went on belaying for a long time and got quite cold. Went to try my 7- trad project again, came up smoothly to were I starded aiding last time, was little pumped so took a break. After the brake my elbow hurted a lot, so backed off and found out later I just hit something with my elbow.
W: lazy day
T: indoor climbing, went bouldering first, did the orange first try of the day. Tried some other new boulders in the orange/blue (6B-6C) circuit, but they felt to fingery, so went to autobelay. Repeated a 7-, then did Mondays 7-/7 (having never climbed the top half, really pleased with 7-/7 second go), also stuck the dyno halfway up on the 7+ and did the rest of it (also without having done it before). Met someone who could give me a belay and tried a new technical crimpy 7-, got to last clip before the top, but couldn’t do the move, maybe just too hard or I was too tired for it, will find out next time on it.
F: travel to work and 2 small skitours
S: work + small skitour
S: work+ travel home
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. Just finishing a week in the States but will hopefully sneak in with last week's report a few hours before you do the stats.
M - AM walking 3.5mile Helvellyn low loop with mum + guide dog + grandma, I was in my aircast boot. There were 4 able-bodied humans there too, but it was comedy to behold.
PM Routes King Kong
T - AM Lakeside walk Keswick.
PM CapPow King Kong (6b max)
W - Lakeside walk Keswick then drive home.
T - Fingerboard, physio (now put in a lower limb class for a month on return from US before reassessment) then fly to Denver
F - Colorado.
AM Skiing
PM yoga
S - AM Skiing
PM CapPow and some bouldering fun Breck Rec
S - AM Practice ski tour
PM Ski touring and first day of AIARE 1 course.
Very pleased that I could ski at all considering that I couldn't really walk at the beginning of the week.
Thanks Alex. Just finishing a week in the States but will hopefully sneak in with last week's report a few hours before you do the stats.
M - AM walking 3.5mile Helvellyn low loop with mum + guide dog + grandma, I was in my aircast boot. There were 4 able-bodied humans there too, but it was comedy to behold.
PM Routes King Kong
T - AM Lakeside walk Keswick.
PM CapPow King Kong (6b max)
W - Lakeside walk Keswick then drive home.
T - Fingerboard, physio (now put in a lower limb class for a month on return from US before reassessment) then fly to Denver
F - Colorado.
AM Skiing
PM yoga
S - AM Skiing
PM CapPow and some bouldering fun Breck Rec
S - AM Practice ski tour
PM Ski touring and first day of AIARE 1 course.
Very pleased that I could ski at all considering that I couldn't really walk at the beginning of the week.
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