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Low grade rock climbs near Mont Blanc, Matterhorn or Eiger

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reo 11 Apr 2016
I'm lucky enough to be touring around Switzerland for 10 days this summer. I'll be heading past Mont Blanc for some trekking and Zermatt near the Matterhorn and Riffelhorn and also passing through Jungfrau region.

Are there any low grade sports climbs? I don't mind height but want something I can actually achieve. Low as you like, up to 6a, with a preference to stick in the 4s and 5s so I can just enjoy the experience of being in the alps.

Thanks
 ChrisNaylor 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

If you have access to a car Saas Fee is about an hour from Zermatt and there are some grade 4/5 routes there, see here Feechi

I think there is a bus but I'm not positive... Hopefully someone else will be along shortly who's more knowledgeable!
 Cellinski 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

Jungfrau Region has the Lobhorn (or Lobhörner) Traverse. Riffelhorn near Zermatt has a few bolted multipitch climbs in the south face.
 Shapeshifter 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

I remember doing a few routes at this place one afternoon when staying in Grindelwald one year. Worth a look certainly

Gletscherschlucht#overview

When you say heading past Mont Blanc, if that means you will be going through the Chamonix valley then places like Les Gaillands, La Joux and Vallorcine (see crags database) should fit the bill.

Have fun.
 Mark Haward 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

Aiguilles Rouges has loads of short and longer sport routes with a great view overlooking Mt Blanc.
 elliptic 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

In Zermatt there's a nice bolted crag up near the Fluh Alp hut/hotel where we spent a very pleasant afternoon in the sun:

http://zermatt.yosemite.ch/topos/Fluhalpe%20Topo.pdf

Easy to get to, it's a half hour stroll from the Blauherd lift station, and there's a terrific view back across the valley to the Matterhorn. There were a few other lines (mostly harder) not on that topo but you might get more info at the hut (and a beer afterwards!)

The Riffelhorn routes mentioned above are multipitch with an (easy but exposed) scrambling approach traverse from around the east side. We did the classic The Egg (4a) which was bolted although an extra sling or two came in handy in a couple of places. Felt rather like one of the harder alphabet routes on Gimmer Crag but with a glacier underneath where Langdale should have been.

Wasn't that impressed by the Saas Fee sport crags and I wouldn't bother making a special trip for them. However bear in mind that staying round there in summer (even camping down in Saas Grund) you get a free lift pass for the whole valley, which is great for accessing all the glacier level trails etc. and the Jegihorn and Mittaghorn via ferratas.

reo 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

Thank you so much guys, can't believe this many replies already, this is awesome. I will check out all the links.
What is this about a free lift pass in the summer? Sounds too good to be true, where do I sign?
 Cellinski 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

The multipitch routes on Jegihorn in the Saas Valley are also very popular and might be of interest to you.
 9fingerjon 11 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:
It's probably worth having a look at the Plasir west guide - it covers most of those areas (although mostly multi pitch routes) Do you have a car? If so the following are all probably places you can combine with your visit to Grindlewald.

I used to live in Kandersteg - so all are based on living there!

Stockhorn - Stockhorn, mostly well bolted single pitch limestone. Quite sharp but some fun water fluting type features. Recommended mostly for the view (above Thunersee with Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau beyond) and unique location/approach- on the summit block of Stockhorn 5 mins walk from cafe/cable car station.

Bockstor#photos - Bockstor - nice crag short distance from Interlaken. Nice rock in the trees, but nice views from the top. Short and well bolted. This and Neuhaus nearby saved many a rainy day higher up in the mountains - lot dryer down there than up at Grindlewald.

Gletscherschult as mentioned above is good for an afternoon - especially if you're based in Grindlewald without a car. If I remember right, you can catch a bus right to the crag (was free with the village guest card). Not as nice as the other 2 - views aren't as good and a bit polished if I remember right.

Lots of options for easy multi pitch routes.
Familienroute (5c) Might be the best easy one. Great rock, well equipped (can bail from any pitch) and hardest pitches are short and have an easier variation. Not super convenient from Grindlewald you will probably pass through Kandersteg on the way from Saas to Grindlewald.

Also look at Hintisberg amazing crag above Grindlewald - multi pitch routes from F5c. I also heard good stuff about the routes on Jegihorn above Saas Grund for long easy multi pitch. But not done them.

Hope that helps!

 funkyvin1 12 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

I second elliptics suggestion of Fluh Alp. Fantastic scenery in a quiet valley with a nice walk in. I thought route C on the topo was a belter.
 funkyvin1 12 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

There is also this one Klettergarten Resti about 45 mins walk above Tasch, which is 6 miles down the valley from Zermatt. Worth a visit if you like slab climbing... the grades are written at the base of each route.
 elliptic 12 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

> What is this about a free lift pass in the summer? Sounds too good to be true, where do I sign?

When I was there a couple of years ago we turned up at the campsite, told them how long we were staying and they just sorted it there and then.

(There are three sites at Saas Grund, we stayed at Kappellenweg which is closest to town and has the best facilities, Mischabel has a better view, Schonblick is a bit basic but has a bar/pizza place conveniently just across the road...)
 caradoc 13 Apr 2016
In reply to reo: This film shows Thermometeregg on the Riffelhorn, Zermatt area.

youtube.com/watch?v=ZSe7Q0KbLow&
 mark catcher 13 Apr 2016
In reply to Shapeshifter: Second vote for Vallorcine - lovely little campsite within walking distance too.

 Birks 13 Apr 2016
In reply to reo:

+1 for Gletscherschult...stunning setting in the shadow of the eiger and on the side of a beautiful gorge! Best 6A I've ever done there...although not a massive crag its ideal for 4-6A range

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