UKC

How have people found climbing conditions generally around October? Keen to get on some long mixed routes at around TD/ED1. Seems like mar/april is probably more reliable from my initial inquires.

I know conditions like autumn 2014 dont come around often so with that in mind id be looking at routes which are likely most years.

A few that might be in are....... Frendo-Ravanel, Gabarrou-Albinoni, Le Vent du Dragon, Petit Viking, Pérroux-Profit Gully, The Ginat, Supercouloir.

Im yet to decide when exactly to go so this is all research and will help me along.

Any recommendations welcome.

In reply to davkeo:
Impossible to predict weather and conditions of course. All these routes could be in around October or equally March / April but whether you'll be able to do them is another matter. For example, all or most of them are in now but the weather is ropey. Autumn conditions. depend on what the summer has been like. After a very hot summer last year, mixed routes were very thin in autumn (and some still are) and getting to them wasn't easy due to large bergschrunds. Whereas a wet summer is conducive to great mixed, as in 2014. So if you can wait till the end of the summer before making a decision, I'd suggest that. Another consideration is that in March / April you can go skiing if the climbing isn't in, which is a pretty good plan B! Also bear in mind that in Marxh / April the approaches and descents are generally made on skis, so you need a ski touring set up (you can try wading in and out but it would take ages, apart from a few routes round the corner from the GM too station).

In reply to Misha:

Thanks Misha. A lot of useful info there. Much to consider as always with these plans.

In reply to davkeo:

Generally speaking, Les Droites NF conditions tend to be easier in spring verses autumn because the winter snows can pack down to form a more friendlier ice that is quicker to climb.

In reply to Mr. Lee:
On the other hand, autumn is the classic season for Grandes Jorasses mixed. Apparently winds over the winter tend to dry out the NF. Basically, there's normally stuff to do in both autumn and spring but whether you manage to get much done depends on the weather and the particular conditions that year. At least this time of year you can go skiing...

In reply to Misha:


And if it is a dry autumn you can go rock climbing! Win win!

In reply to davkeo:

Autumn can be a golden, settled period. The first half of September is often - though not always - superb for rock routes, with few of the afternoon storms you can get in hotter months. Do bear in mind the days are much shorter, though, and the nights chilly. The good weather of early September can last all month, and well into October.

However, fresh snow will not quickly melt, so a single snowy day can wreck rock conditions for the rest of the year, other than on south faces. As for ice and mixed: as already stated, it mainly depends on the summer. Autumn can be an amazing time with routes such the Cecchinel - Nomine and the Dufour on the GPA in incredible nick. Or it can be totally hopeless.

In reply to David Rose:
Good point re rock routes that don't see much sun being out once it snows. Last year it snowed late August and that was that for the Walker. However S facing stuff was still fine when the weather was nice.