UKC

Hello All,

Basically a few friends and I have started indoor bouldering quite regularly, however would like to venture outside for a difference experience in the peak district area.

The problem is we don't have either the experience with Rope Climbing or the equipment. Therefore we are looking for somewhere to go where we can "Free Climb" at a level up to V4 (ish).

Can anyone recommend somewhere for a good day out?

Thanks in advance!

In reply to StephenAS:

Buy the vertebrate graphics peak bouldering guidebook and go to one of the many crags listed and try some problems. Take a towel with you to keep your shoes clean and don't put tick marks of chalk all over the rock.
Stanage Plantation, Burbage South, The Roaches are all popular with beginners but there are plenty of other options in the book

The book uses a different grading system but you'll be wanting stuff up to about 6B

In reply to StephenAS:

To add to what Deacon says: have you got a couple of pads between you? Some of the old farts on here will insist that they never had namby pamby padding in their day, and that today's youth don't know their born, what's wrong with broken ankles, they didn't do us any harm, etc etc. Ignore them.

Also, expect to get your arse kicked, grade wise. If you manage to get to half your indoor grade, you're doing well. It's not that outdoors is actually harder, it's just totally different and V4 will be fiercely technical rather than steep and pully - on gritstone, you don't get a lot of very overhanging indoor-style problems. Nothing tells you where to put your feet and it often seems like there simply aren't any holds. You might find topping out difficult.

Worth repeating: make sure your shoes are clean (really clean) and don't smother the holds in chalk. If you're feeling really community-spirited, gently brush your chalk off the holds once you're done.

In reply to StephenAS:

Burbage South valley boulders is a great place to start (or continue) outdoor bouldering. Perfect landings, lots of slabby problems to learn grit footwork on, nothing too high, gorgeous place, super-easy to get to (very close to parking if you have a car, very close to a bus stop if you don't). You can have a nice day there with a single mat between a group:

Burbage South Valley Boulders

Also, I'll be the pedant before someone else is: "free climbing" just means that you're not aid climbing (using gear to pull up on or stand on, not much practised in the UK -- it's most often used for big wall climbing in the US).

You might be thinking of "free soloing", but that applies to climbs above bouldering height -- generally, stuff where you'd potentially be seriously hurt or killed if you came off.

Also, what JonStewart said: buy or rent a mat, and go expecting it to be utterly different from indoor bouldering and to kick your arse at first. That happens to everyone, so don't be disheartened. It's a learning experience, especially with grit (which is the most different from indoor climbing, at least in my experience).

Have a great time!

In reply to StephenAS:

Hey thanks for the tips!

Anyone recommend a good place to hire Crash Mats?

In reply to StephenAS:

The Climbing Works in Sheffield will rent bouldering mats:

https://www.climbingworks.com/the-works/pad-hire/

In reply to slab_happy:

Burbage South. It will be brilliant

Buy a book but don't be afraid to make your own problems. In particular really work on foot work at first. Try tracersing blank slabs to see just what a smear can do. ideally this will be close to the ground

In reply to StephenAS:


Most people don't bother, they just take their bed mattress with them and use that.

In reply to StephenAS:

Actually, there's no bouldering in the Peak, it's just a big, bleak, empty moor. No crags sadly. Pass this on to every one you meet, and advise them it's best to climb indoors........