UKC

Stakes as grass anchors?!

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 Jon de Leyser 15 Apr 2016
There's a crag I want to develop which doesn't have any natural anchors available - just a flat grass plateau immediately after top-out. Anyone got experience placing stakes in grass to set up anchors? I know it sounds dodgy as, but wondered if ANY positive experience out there... what kinds of stakes work, how many required, are they removable etc.?
Thanks,
Jon
 Dave Warburton 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:
A quick google (or UKC) search: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=509351

Angle Iron, Scaffold (~5ft) that sort of thing will be fine. They're very solid and not 'dodgy as' at all.

All the best.
Post edited at 10:47
 summo 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

i presume the landowner knows you want to bang stakes in?

If so great, I would put 3 or 4 stakes in a good 10m back from the edge, then you can equalised 2 or 3 of them where you descend potential routes. If it's a narrow crag, then put two or three in a row, a metre or so apart and equalise like you might snow stakes. Anything metal and strong going down up to a metre deep will work, just leave enough sticking up so folk can easily see it and you don't make a trip hazard near the edge.

You may once you have developed the crag want stakes in more specific places etc.. also consider crag height if it's loose and you need to put stakes further back.. You need to be able to climb the route, then have enough rope to reach the stake and get back to the crag top on a 50m rope.
 BigBrother 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

I used to climb with someone who used tent pegs and accessory cord for anchors on grassy cliff tops. It worked well.
10
 Greasy Prusiks 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:
What kind of stakes should you use?

Stakes not steaks.

That's my advice.


Post edited at 11:15
2
OP Jon de Leyser 15 Apr 2016
In reply to summo:

I haven't actually asked the landowner yet - will do, but thought temporary stakes might be more palatable... which is why I asked about those... I suppose all of these techniques are quite permanent? Probably too tough removing a 5ft deep iron stake.
 Dave Warburton 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

We regularly place and remove stakes 4-5ft of both angle iron and scaffold. Pop them in, then wiggle them out (or hammer sideways to open the hole).

Cheers.
 EddInaBox 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

> I haven't actually asked the landowner yet - will do, but thought temporary stakes might be more palatable

If the landowner wants you to be able to remove them, you could put a tube in flush to the ground, then bring a slightly smaller diameter stake with you when you go climbing that slots into the in situ tube. Finding the position might be a bit of a pain in long grass, and maybe a cap on the tube would be a good idea to stop it filling with detritus.
 Robin Woodward 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

Assuming you're able to access the top out walking as well, then another option is getting some re-bar and bending this beforehand into a staple and hammering this in. It's relatively easy to get out without messing up the ground too much, and is cheap and light. Equalising 2-3 of these should work, however I've never pull-tested them in terms of climbing (we've used them to anchor equipment to the ground to keep it steady (pretty large equipment).

My concern about all these types of anchors when suing them as 'non-permenant' is that you're only going to weaken the ground if you're placing them in the same/similar position on multiple occasions. I think getting permission for permanent stakes would be both safer and easier in the long run. You could always plant something spikey (again with permission) just above the stakes to stop people going close and tripping on them and hiding them from curious people. Would also give you a bit more of an authentic sea-cliff feel and hide them from view.
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Dave Warburton:

I use scaffold tube ( cos i can get offcuts free ) , a 10 or 14 lb sledge hammer and like Dave never had a problem getting them out.
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Robin Woodward:
Jim Titt has tested stakes ( naturally

Look up his website,, some surprises thrown up in the testing
Post edited at 12:40
 Phil79 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Jim Titt has tested stakes ( naturally

> Look up his website,, some surprises thrown up in the testing

Link below for reference
http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

 SGD 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

I have 2 of these and they are bomber.

http://www.diy.com/departments/spyrabase-sb2507r-green-ground-anchor-h250mm...

even used them at Brean to great affect
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2016
In reply to SGD:

> I have 2 of these and they are bomber.


> even used them at Brean to great affect

Would you please repeat that in a court of law ?
 Offwidth 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Robin Woodward:

Those of us used to esoteric quarries have belayed off rabbit holes and sometimes friction with the grass. Id have been very happy with the thinest tent peg in such sitiations.
 cuppatea 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Offwidth:
At Screda Point it used to be quite normal to belay off the anthills. Almost a case of grass as a stake anchor
Post edited at 15:09
 pec 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

I once couldn't find anything at all to belay off at the top of a crag so I ran my rope out back from the top about twice as far as the crag was high and sat down to belay with my legs braced. I worked on the idea that if my second fell off and I got dragged forward he'd reach the bottom well before I got near the edge and that the friction of the rope over the egde and me being dragged along would make his fall slow enough not to hurt too much when he hit the ground!
Although he didn't fall off he couldn't get a friend out whilst climbing so I lowered him off to retrieve it afterwards off the "belay" described above and indeed the friction was such that I didn't get pulled forward at all.
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2016
In reply to pec:

Always works like that , apparently, is the crag top is flat.

It takes a lot of confidence to use the technique if the crag is over half a rope length high.
 jimtitt 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

There was someone (down Exmoor way if I remember correctly) who set up stealth anchors as it was too hard to get stakes in. Cut a semicircular slot in the turf and bury a length of black poly pipe. Come back next year and thread the rope through. Keep meaning to test this one day
 Andy Nisbet 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

> I haven't actually asked the landowner yet - will do, but thought temporary stakes might be more palatable... which is why I asked about those... I suppose all of these techniques are quite permanent? Probably too tough removing a 5ft deep iron stake.

My advice is not to ask the landowner. He's unlikely to notice or care. But if he gives permission then he will be nervous about liability.
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I agree. If the landowner does not kick off about climbing , a few stakes is probably not a problem.

Having said that, farmers do not like sharp topped stakes that can rip cows udders. Do not create a trip hazard for walkers.
 spearing05 16 Apr 2016
In reply to Jon de Leyser:

Stakes are often the only anchors in our MRT in the Beacons. We use aluminium bars about 600mm long, rarely driven more than 300mm deep each. Use them in pairs roped together, main load on centre pair and one outside pair, safety backup line on centre and other outside pair. This means we'll often raise and/or lower a loaded stretcher complete with attendant on effectively 4 stakes 300mm or so deep. Some pics of the system in use here.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156694418085543&id=229128...

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