UKC Forums - Grading Nelson's Column

Grading Nelson's Column

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Welsh Kate 18 Apr 2016

So, what grade is Nelson's Column?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-36070182

The Lemming 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

Don't know

However a superb visual protest.

slab_happy 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

E6 6b/5a if led free, according to Johnny Dawes (first free ascent, on behalf of Survival International).

The BBC don't report on the style of the Greenpeace ascent and whether aid was used, though.

DerwentDiluted 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:
I seem to remember ages ago Jerry Moffat said it was about E5 5c, but I can't provide a reference or source other than my addled memory. I think it was an interview in High c1992, it stuck in my mind as he said it reflected a lot of identical moves with only the lighting conductor to clip into.

Edit, slab happy might be more accurate above.

Post edited at 10:50

Loris Doyle 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

E5 6a. See Jerry Moffat's Biography "Revelations"

The New NickB 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:
I seem to remember someone describing it as a 6a boulder problem followed by 150' of identical 4c moves. Sketchy protection afforded by the lightening conductor.

Joe Simpson according to google, although it appears they used a ladder to start.

Post edited at 10:57

slab_happy 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

Whoops, sorry, E6 6b/c, 1a, 5a (made the mistake of going from Wikipedia before checking Mr. Dawes's book).

Also, he named it "Absolutely Fabulous".

abseil 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

Ed Drummond climbed it too [for Save the Whales?? not sure], I don't remember him discussing the grade though.

Tony the Blade 18 Apr 2016

In reply to slab_happy:

There used to be a stunning photograph of Johnny jumping (over his hands?) on one of the parapets.

galpinos 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Tony the Blade:

Let me google that for you......

http://vigil.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Johnny-Dawes-Full-of-Myself....

Stone Muppet 18 Apr 2016

(On the style of today's ascent)

From the recent BBC footage it looks like the leader aided the lightening conductor and the second jumared. Etriers visible in the opening shot and runners at very frequent intervals (?)
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-36070182

Fair play to them!

Post edited at 12:51

Morgan Woods 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

Wouldn't you have to ask Mrs Nelson?

Mikkel 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Did Lady Hamilton ask first you think?

DerwentDiluted 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Mikkel:

> Did Lady Hamilton ask first you think?

Stiff for the grade apparently.

Babika 18 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

I reckon the lions are about 4a in slippery shoes

stp 21 Apr 2016

In reply to Stone Muppet:

> it looks like the leader aided the lightening conductor and the second jumared

I don't think anyone has lead it whilst free climbing. As I remember Johnny top roped up it after someone else aided up the lightening conductor. So the true F.F.A has not yet been done?

BarrySW19 21 Apr 2016

In reply to Babika:

> I reckon the lions are about 4a in slippery shoes

Yeah, but you have to remember - they are usually tackled after at least six pints.

Phil Anderson 22 Apr 2016

In reply to stp:

I thought Johnny freed it on a second attempt a few years later, but that's from memory, so could be wrong.

BrendanO 22 Apr 2016

In reply to Welsh Kate:

What about a grade for the Kelpies near Falkirk then? I reckon the gentlest routes up are Severe at most, v well-protected, crux is start. Would LOVE to do that (and not get into trouble...).