UKC

NEWS: IFSC Boulder World Cup Meiringen: Report

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 UKC News 18 Apr 2016
Shauna, 3 kbThe IFSC Bouldering World Cup kicked off its season in style over the weekend with the first round in Meiringen, Switzerland. Without the likes of Anna Stöhr, Jan Hojer and Sean McColl, we were treated to some relatively fresh faces. Not least, sixteen year old Janja Garnbret, who never failed to podium in the junior category. Ultimately the gold medals were won by Russian Alexey Rubtsov and Britain's very own Shauna Coxsey.

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 galpinos 18 Apr 2016
In reply to UKC News:

In the opening paragraph it says Sean McColl wasn't there, then it talks about him going out in the semis in 20th spot. I'm confused.....
 liamlonsdale 18 Apr 2016
In reply to galpinos:

I think it means in the sense that they didn't make it through to the finals ... all of those athletes, were competing. LL
 galpinos 18 Apr 2016
In reply to liamlonsdale:

Ah...ok. I think that might need re-writing then as that's not how I rad it!

Great to see such a good British turn out and so many in the semis. I'd like to hear a bit more about the Brits in the semi-finals, Leah and Tracey seem to be added as an end note.
 Dandan 18 Apr 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Am I right in saying that Martin Stranik would have jumped from 2nd to 1st if he had just reached down and touched the bonus hold (that he was stood on) with his hand on the final boulder? That must have been pretty frustrating when he realised!
In reply to Dandan:

No, you are wrong. He would have had to 'use' the bonus

A small but significant difference
 Dandan 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

I see, and he has to 'use' it with his hand/hands? Because he certainly 'used' it with his feet!
In reply to Dandan:
Yes it is with the hands. Likewise the finish hold must be held with the hands.

And in Lead comps it is the hands that get you the score on a hold, not the feet
Post edited at 13:16
1
DanGreb 18 Apr 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Great competition but they should revoke Eddie Fowke's press photographer's pass! He acts more like a pushy paparrazo than a normal photographer. He basically camped out beneath the problems and kept brazenly shoving his camera in the competitors faces!
 Annelies 19 Apr 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Janja is 17 years old.
 stp 19 Apr 2016
In reply to UKC News:

A great first comp. Michaela and Leah did really well I thought. In the semis Michaela almost did the first problem getting higher than most (I think it only got 2 ascents total). That would have got her in the final, but 8th is pretty damn respectable nonetheless.

Much better having commentators who are actually climbers too I thought.

All in all a great effort by Team GB and hope they can build on the success here for the rest of the World Cups. Top effort by Shauna coming first.

There are also brief highlights from the qualification round here:
http://onbouldering.com/2016-meiringen-bouldering-world-cup-qualifiers-vide...
Removed User 21 Apr 2016
In reply to Greame:

The explanation does not make sense to me. First of all Martin touched the hold with one hand in one of his tries to secure the bonus point. Second of all there is a clear regulation for controlling the top in the rules: "Controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands." However there is no mention of holding with the hold hands with regard to the bonus point therefore the holding of the hold is not necessary. That seems to make sense to me.
 winhill 21 Apr 2016
In reply to Removed UserMichal Sylla:

> The explanation does not make sense to me. First of all Martin touched the hold with one hand in one of his tries to secure the bonus point. Second of all there is a clear regulation for controlling the top in the rules: "Controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands." However there is no mention of holding with the hold hands with regard to the bonus point therefore the holding of the hold is not necessary. That seems to make sense to me.

The Bonus Hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position.

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/Event_regulations/1...

It's possible to bypass the bonus hold, then get into a position where a touch is possible but not any further movement or weight shift, so the competitor isn't judged to have used the hold.

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