UKC

Wadi Rum - Fixed gear info request

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 Robert Durran 18 Apr 2016
I am writing an article about Wadi Rum and am keen to have an assessment of the fixed abseil points on Lionheart, The Star of Abu Judaidah and Goldfinger. Bolts, drilled pegs or threads? What state? It is now more than twelve years since I climbed these routes so any relatively up to date info would be much appreciated! Also, could somebody confirm (or not) that the anchors on Merlin's Wand are bolts rather than drilled pegs (I last climbed it two years ago but can't remember definitely).
 Ian Parsons 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Hi Rob

Can't help with details, I'm afraid; didn't do any of those routes. Wondered whether some of the photos on this site might help with general memory refreshment; The Star and Merlin's Wand are two of the featured routes.

http://lespetitsaventuriers.fr/spip.php?page=region&maregion=102
OP Robert Durran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks. Great site and photos. Must do Rock Fascination!
 Lh88 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Hi Rob,
Lionheart and The Star of Abu Judaidah were equipped with decent abseil stations 3 years ago and descending didn't feel too 'adventurous'. I can't recall 100% if these were bolts or pegs.
Cheers,
OP Robert Durran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Lh88:

> Lionheart and The Star of Abu Judaidah were equipped with decent abseil stations 3 years ago and descending didn't feel too 'adventurous'. I can't recall 100% if these were bolts or pegs.

Thanks. The Star was drilled pegs 12 years ago and I think Lionheart was too. Sounds like they are still pretty safely equipped anyway.
 Ian Parsons 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Must do Rock Fascination!

Yes; it's excellent. Very handy for when the weather's too hot for long routes in the sun.
OP Robert Durran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

> Yes; it's excellent.

What UK grade would you give it? Good rock? How tricky was the descent to find and descend?
 Ian Parsons 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

> What UK grade would you give it? Good rock? How tricky was the descent to find and descend?

I thought E3 at the time (1999), although maybe no single pitch was more than (hard) E2 on its own. I agreed with the guidebook that the pitch near the top (given VII-) was the hardest, although the French site gives that pitch 6b and the VI+ lower down 6b+. Generally good rock; I think the only pitch that I found worrying in that respect was the 4th one (VI-/6a ) up a chimney, which was probably about E1/2 5a.

We did the described descent - ie abbing down Le Jardin Secret, which we had done a couple of days earlier. It would be quite hard to find from above on first acquaintance; you walk down gradually steepening slabs to find the first abseil point, with nothing much to indicate that you're in the right place. I took the precaution of building a small cairn at the top of the slabs when we finished Jardin, and was very glad of it after RF. The summit plateau is very complicated and the few hundred metres from the top of RF to Jardin took a couple of hours; we kept meeting ravines, having to backtrack or abseil in and climb out, make deviations - all very time consuming, and it was starting to get dark when we reached the abseils. I would certainly recommend doing what we did by climbing Jardin first, sorting the abseils so you can do them in the dark if necessary, and having a bit of a wander around at the top to find some landmarks.

I notice that Barraud is between the two routes and has its own abseil; maybe it's harder to find from above, or perhaps doesn't quite top out.
OP Robert Durran 18 Apr 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks for all that. RF, along with Inshallah Factor, is top of my Rum hitlist - I'll remember to offer to take pitch 1 - I hate chimneys.......

A recce up Jardin Secret sounds very sensible - maybe even stash some water at the top. I did in fact start up it on one trip with RF in mind but we got rained off (That was a few days before getting snowed in on Jebel Rum!)

 rpc 19 Apr 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Merlin's had drilled angle belays back in Feb. of 2012 - looked to be in good shape back then. Goldfinger descent (which I think does not follow the climb?) had nicely bolted stations (all of them??):
http://chossclimbers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSCN1951-768x1024.jpg
OP Robert Durran 19 Apr 2016
In reply to rpc:

> Merlin's had drilled angle belays back in Feb. of 2012 - looked to be in good shape back then. Goldfinger descent (which I think does not follow the climb?) had nicely bolted stations (all of them??):

Thanks for that.

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