UKC

Hi there. Am planning on going climbing up Scotland. Probably glencoe. Can anyone recommend me a good guide book and some good places to climb some multi pitch trad routes. Looking for grades around vs

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

Scottish Rock volume 1 south is a good selective guide for the area.

Not sure about classic VS's, bit hard for me, but def enough to choose from in the book.

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

when are you planning on coming? many of the mountain crags will be pretty wintery for the coming week or more and you will definitely still need axe and crampons to get off or even access some routes

In reply to Webster:

Am planning on going around mid July so should be in condition to rock climb

In reply to Michael MacArthur:
Ooooh! Satan's Slit, Red Slab, Hangman's Crack or Raven's Edge on the Buachaille, Spartan Slab at Etive Slabs, any VS on Styx Buttress at Polldubh, any VS on South Wall of Garbh Bheinn. Damp in Glencoe? Check forecast for Kilchoan and go west to Ardnamurchan- many a good VS. Worth the hop north to Binnein Shuas for Blaeberry Grooves and uber classic Ardverikie Wall (even if its only HS). In July take a midge net and a bottle of Smidge potentially for any of these but especially Polldubh and Etive Slabs if there is no wind (and afternoons on Etive Slabs after sun has passed). Wild card recommendation- check out the gneiss on Indian Slabs.

In reply to AlH:

Thanks. Are the midges that bad?

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

Honestly? If you get a still warm grey day they are pretty grim. But then the higher you go the better they get, or go towards the sea (never seem anything like as bad at Ardnamurchan|). I'm a local and find Smidge very effective (they land but don't bite, 2 applications will protect me even on a sweaty day) but still take a net in high summer.

In reply to AlH:

Actually putting me off a bit lol. Are the midges bad around the cirangorms bad

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

It's Scotland. It's July. The midges are bad.

Jeesus!! Whatever happened to reading books to finding out information???? I must be getting old......

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

I've been badly midged just below the summit of Cairngorm on the slabs at stac an fharaidh.

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

July and August are probably best avoided in Scotland due to the midges, they can be absolutely horrendous in those months, particularly if camping.

In reply to Michael MacArthur:

It was looking great today as I passed Michael.

In reply to Father Noel Furlong:

Calm yer jets Faither. The midge is a natural deterrent. The Heilans athoot them wid be unbearable, if ye get ma drift