UKC

First time swanage must do's

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 AJCW 24 Apr 2016
Heading to swanage for the first time. What must we do?!?!?
 Cheese Monkey 24 Apr 2016
In reply to AJCW:

Wonderland
 The Ivanator 24 Apr 2016
In reply to AJCW:

What sort of grades are you looking for?
There are plenty of classics, Boulder Ruckle is an adventure, but probably home to the best routes if you are suitably used to the seacliff environment and all it involves.
Ocean Boulevard (E3 5b)
Elysium (E1 5b)
Finale Groove (HVS 4c)
are amongst the many great pitches on offer. Elsewhere if the water is warm enough then The Conger (E2 5c) is a must do DWS.
 Mick Ward 24 Apr 2016
In reply to AJCW:

If you're still around in August, when the water's warmer, Freeborn Man (DWS).

Mick
 tonanf 24 Apr 2016
In reply to AJCW:

Baccaneer
In reply to AJCW:

Mars
1
 nniff 25 Apr 2016
In reply to tonanf:

Buccaneer is the worst three star route on the planet. Hateful route.
1
 The Ivanator 25 Apr 2016
In reply to nniff:

Also at Swanage Cormorant Buttress West (HS 4c) is another strong contender for the World's worst 3 star route - perhaps worth half a star for getting you on a big seacliff at an amenable grade, the line, moves and rock quality are all thoroughly mediocre though.
 CurlyStevo 25 Apr 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:
at my grades the best routes I've done are (all 3 stars)
Finale Groove HVS,
Jo HVS
Lightening Wall HVS
The spook E1
Tensor II VS

Always fancied Quality Street (HVS) and Wall Street (HS) too.

Aventura is only 2 stars but is only slightly less of a quality route than Jo IMO. Pitch 2 is excellent.

the guide book doesn't lie when it shows concentrations of 2 & 3 star routes at places like marmolata area

enjoy
Post edited at 14:12
 Dogwatch 25 Apr 2016
In reply to AJCW:

> Heading to swanage for the first time. What must we do?!?!?

Infinite Gravity. Or else Scrambler's Wall. How the hell do you expect an answer without some indication of grade?

 JJL 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Graham Westbrook:

> Mars

An e2 tick with HVS climbing! Yes!

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