UKC

Training for Yosemite free-climbing in Europe?

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 natetan 25 Apr 2016
I am looking for inspiration for European climbing areas that would translate fairly well to Yosemite climbing.

I plan to do 6 months in Europe - so far think of Cadarese, Orco Valley, Chamonix (maybe).. any other ideas for good Yosemite-translatable granite in Europe?
 Casa Alfredino 25 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Val di Mello. Although then yo'll probably end up realising you don't need to go to Yosemite
2
 HeMa 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Yup, Mello and Bregalia just on the Swiss side should offer a good amount of granite.

Grimsel-Furka pass regions as well, plus naturally Salbit.
J1234 25 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

If it is Big Wall aid your after, what about Montserrat or Terradets.
1
 ms26g10 25 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

The dolomites in Italy is great for long multi-pitch routes there are a handful that require you to setup a portaledge too, Rockfax do a decent guidebook and their is a mixture of trad and sport.
1
 Robert Durran 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Casa Alfredino:

> Val di Mello.

Yes, that should be shiny, holdness and generally horrible enough to simulate a bit of Yosemite
OP natetan 25 Apr 2016
In reply to ms26g10:

Thanks - though mostly looking for hard granite free climbing.. Wall craft I'm not too bad at already.
 Casa Alfredino 25 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Here you go - something to whet the whistle... just think of all the slick glacier polished holds, the 20m run outs and the general desperateness and you'll be booking flights before you know it...

youtube.com/watch?v=5MRjxw3xjV0&
 Neil 25 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Eldorado
Eldorado
 IPPurewater 25 Apr 2016
In reply to Neil:

...and Handegg.
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to HeMa:

Had not heard of most of these - very useful - I will check them out!
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to Casa Alfredino:

Great - thank you! That is the sort of thing I am looking for :P
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to Neil:

Nice.. thank you Neil!
Andy Gamisou 26 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

20 foot crack?
In reply to natetan:

Chamonix is only good insomuch as you can do some big(ish) walls, the climbing style is completely different.
 Dr Toph 26 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Hey mate, im planning a similar mission this summer (athough allowing for some big limestone at either end)
Prob going to be in Val di Mello sometime in August.
Picos - Pyrenees - Ecrins - Orco - Mello - Dolomites
Let me know if you need a partner, i dont have definite partners for some sections.
Dont crank quite as hard as you tho...
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

yeah, thanks - was kinda figuring that
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to Dr Toph:

For sure - def open to that! Mostly planned on picking up partners on the way with the odd mate visiting.

Are you also training for Yos?
 adam06 26 Apr 2016
lofoten for the granite
 Fatal 26 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Verdon is usually considered Yosemite-free
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to Fatal:

Ideally looking for rock that emulates Yosemite granite... although Verdon is certainly fun!
OP natetan 26 Apr 2016
In reply to adam06:

Thanks - worth considering for sure! Just quite a trip up in a van :S
 HeMa 26 Apr 2016
In reply to adam06:

> lofoten for the granite

almost, too slabby though...

Baugen in Kvaloya would be closer to the ticket... and Blåmannen nearby also offers some hard, long free climbs on granite (f7b and harder, on gear though).
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 26 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

As Mike says Val di Mello has exactly what you're after. A lot of big granite routes that aren't just large slabs (though there is some of that as well).
 Robert Durran 26 Apr 2016
In reply to adam06:

> Lofoten for the granite

Lofoten granite is gorgeous stuff with friction, holds and technical interest - good training for the Cairngorms in fact, but nothing at all like Yosemite.......
 Goucho 26 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

Eldorado near Grimsall Pass and Val De Mello - the latter can even provide the same levels of polish in places?
 alpinist63 27 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

val del orco is pretty good for crack climbs and a good preparation for yosemite cracks, for slabs , I 'd suggest central switzerland, especially Handegg and Eldorado dome ( much better climing).
Verdon, Dolomites etc are ok to get used to multipitch technique like belay set-up etc, but the climbing is totally different..
by the way, a new guidebook wil be available soon:
http://www.rockclimbyosemite.com/
OP natetan 28 Apr 2016
In reply to alpinist63:

Thanks - yes multi pitch skills are fine - I am mostly looking for hard granite with a similar feel to get used too. I don't think I will go to Yosemite until spring next year and don't want to get too beaten up when I get there!

I will look up Handegg & Eldorado.. I am assuming there is harder stuff there than what is on the UKC topo!
 alpinist63 29 Apr 2016
In reply to natetan:

on eldorado you find quite a lot of really good routes in the 6a-6c range, not very steep, slabs but also cracks, motorhead being well worth doing. Handegg is way more polished, overall not as good as eldorado. To practice the typical yosemite jam cracks, val del orco is good with excellent routes. Orecchio del pachiderma + Itaca nel sole + Rattle snake on the Caporal is pretty close to what you'll find in yosemite and of course the famous fessura kosterlitz
geomac 02 May 2016
In reply to natetan:

ORCO is very similar to Yosemite granite and the more slabby routes similar to Tuolumne routes. The off width cracks are in general very similar. It also has several routes with the odd aid pitch.
Practice on Gritstone offwidths too. Different rock, same techniques.
OP natetan 02 May 2016
In reply to alpinist63:

Cool thanks. Eldorado sounds good but I might need to find some harder routes for my Yos aims - but I am guessing there is probably harder single pitch stuff around in the area.

That is useful - I need to do a bit more off width climbing. Ill check out those routes. Thank you again for the advice!
OP natetan 02 May 2016
In reply to geomac:

Thanks Geomac.. ill def check out Orco then.
geomac 02 May 2016
In reply to natetan:

Been both places, so the comparison is from personal experience. I'll be in Yosemite the whole of September this year btw.
OP natetan 04 May 2016
In reply to geomac:

Cool! Enjoy. I plan to spend a lot of 2017 there!
 lanky 04 May 2016
In reply to natetan:
The Salbit is worth a look, not sure how similar to Yosemite the rock is, but there is a lot of granit that is good quality.
Post edited at 10:58
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