UKC

A certain 6b+ sport climb has had the top half de-hangered because of concerns about the rock . A new lower-off has been installed at half height; the new version of the climb being much easier (about 5+). There are currently 15 logged ascents. The route is to keep the same name.

What's the best way to proceed as crag moderator? Keep the same climb entry and amend the description and grade (in which case the logged ascents won't match), or create a new entry with (2) appended, but also retain the old entry (so that the earlier logged ascents make sense)?

Thanks.

In reply to bpmclimb:

I would create a new route, and rename the old one "xxx (longer version before de bolting)" or similar.

In reply to bpmclimb:

I'd make a new entry, retaining the old one but making it clear that it no longer exists as a route unless the concerns over the rock are reconsidered. Afterall, I'm sure some of the 15 people would like to keep their 6b+ onsight tick in their logbook.

In reply to Si dH:

Agree with renaming the old version, although this gets tricky if the crag is in a Rockfax guide as we don't have the ability to override such settings

In reply to bpmclimb:

Isn't there a possibility nowadays to mark route something that does not exist anymore (as in can't be climbed). Do that for the old and create a new route with the same name (or nearly the same name) and new grade and so on...

In reply to bpmclimb:

Thanks for replies. I'll do something along the lines suggested

In reply to Chris the Tall:
Yes! This affected Browns Eliminate Direct and the variants of Straight and Narrow. Rockfax descriptions and changes to lines overwrites the line of the previous logged results so the route you logged isn't the one on the database. It also affects grades so for instance the odd Rockfax decision to make this route HS 4b was in direct contradiction to the votes.

The Big Chimney (HS 4b)

I'm not trying to get at Rockfax just trying to get authors to think through the consequences of such changes... new names for new variations and some consistency of grades works much better with the logbooks.

In reply to Offwidth:


It looks to me like most of the votes were made when the grade was still at VD and the hardest available option was "easy Severe". I bet most would now vote for something harder. FWIW my notes say top end HS 4b.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:
I know that but we must have discussed this before. Firstly you missed the key to the start (step across and pull in from the block on the right) and even for the direct start a bouldery 4b sequence into something undercut at shoulder height wouldn't normally get HS.

Also Rockfax annoyingly made the unpleasant grovelling left exit the default which most people wont have logged before and comments from those since will put more people off..