In reply to minty1984:
Have a look at Frankenjura.com/klettern , loads of crag info and topos there. There are so many crags, it really depends on where you are based.
That said, I recommend the Trubach valley and surroundings, which is where I started climbing. Lots of climbs in your range e.g. at Haselstaudener Wände. Also, the other crags such as Zehnerstein are in easy cycling distance , and of course there are plenty of excellent breweries!
As for Saxony, Hinterhermsdorf is at the faaar end of the National Park, most of the well known climbing areas are closer to the Elbe. I usually go that far up the Kirnitzsch valley only for hiking (which is great!). At your grades, I can definitely recommend Schusterweg on Falkenstein, five pitches with everything from friction slabs to tunnel crawls, corners and short off width cracks, all reasonably easy and protectable with threads or slings across spikes, so no need to rely on jamming knots. Next to Falkenstein there are loads of good and protectable routes in the range you are looking for close to Schrammtor, e.g on Zackenkrone (4 on the south side and an exciting 6 on the north face). Perrykante and the bolt protected central route on the Tante one tier further up (the access starts close to the Schrammsteinaussicht viewing platform) are also fantastic, especially because of the amazing scenery.
If you have a car, a day trip to Bielatal will be well worth it, Kleine Herkulessäule is simply spectacular (the normal route can again be protected with threads, no knot jams required), as are the neighbouring towers such as Schraubenkopf (easy but dangerous) and Chinesischer Turm. My favourite is the Nymphenbad area with Falkenwand a bit further up the valley. The Alte Talweg and Juniweg routes are among the best I have climbed there. On the opposite side of the valley, Titan has some beautiful 40 m cracks.
if you are afraid of crumbly sandstone, Tica just on the Czech side has some ultra hard, large grained gritstone that on some routes feels almost like granite. Protection is also better than on the German side, and you can easily set up topropes as climbing is not limited to free standing pillars as in Saxony.
Stay away from Bastei, it is the local tourist trap and the rock in that area is largely crap. Also, do not climb when wet, in most areas the rock will turn to crumbly weetabix.
Drop me an email if you need more info, I currently live in Dresden.
CB