UKC

A little confused about what i should be doing on the little indoor wall,

I've heard rumours about taking a hold at max effort for 10sec and then change/rest. Recover and repeat.

I'd subscribe to a deadpoint needing that extra burst of power at contact to latch it. Repeat until goosed.

But
I read in a climbing performance book i have, ARC training (aerobic restoration and capillarity) 30-40min on the wall, try not to get bored (<20-30% maximum hold power) very easy, use all year round

Power endurance training, (60-75% maximum hold power) to failure-45-60seconds.12-15 sets-careful periodization required

What's going to get the strongest fingers and forearms? Cheers

In reply to zimpara:
Google Prilepin's Table for ideas.

In reply to zimpara:

I would have periods training all of these throughout the year, prioritising one and then maintaining the others.

Personally, I start with 3 months of Aerocap (similar protocal to what you described, around 3 sessions a week).

This is followed by PE and Strength training.

If you are after increasing your actual contact strength or targeting a grip you're weak at maximum hangs for between 5 and 10 seconds seem to be the consensus amongst many coaches.

However I'd only recommend these maximum hangs if you are already an experienced climber who's operating in the french 7s or if you have a weak grip to work on (say fully openhanded 3 finger grip).

Bouldering is where it's at for pure strength/power gains.

In reply to zimpara:

If you're after pure finger strength gains have a look at Crusher holds blog about training strength on a fingerboard.
For contact 'strength' you should try maximum hangs which are a recruitment exercise aimed at using the strength you have to maximum (quick) affect.
1 x 10 sec hang, 4 mins rest, x 10 reps - failing on each hang around the 10 seconds/end of hang... simples eh ?!

http://crusherholdsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/fingerboarding-for-first...

In reply to zimpara:

Right, you need to train maximum power. You do this by calculating your max deadpoint vector. Start off with a deadhang and time yourself, divide that time by the effort in % x 2. Take that number times by the power of 3 to find the max deadpoint vector.

This is the point to which you need to train to each and every time.

In reply to Oogachooga:
What sort of deadhang?
Ona a pull up bar or what sort of holds?

In reply to Oogachooga:



You forgot to subtract your age in months and multiply by the number you first thought of.

In reply to zimpara:

Holds need to be between 20-36.5% plastic thermoset polypropylene and you need to practice the Indian deadhang.

In reply to Fraser:

Twat

In reply to zimpara:

At the level at which you are climbing, I'd ditch the deadhanging and just boulder to get strong.