UKC

Hi there,

I have been climbing for about 5-6 months, getting on well and enjoying it loads. However I have found (as many here have that I am reading about!) that I need to improve finger/forearm strength to be able to hold on for longer.

I have seen videos and web sites showing me how to train, so I am happy with the training aspect. But the problem I am having is with the static hang-time.

When I am hanging (say from the bottom of a step, or from a finger board) I am finding that the skin in below the crease of my finger joints is getting pinched and gets sore. While this does not affect me while I am climbing, it is quite sore when I am training.

I am trying to get to 4 minute hang-time (that's my goal but I am no-where near that!). My method is to hang until my grip fails and then repeat 2 more times in that session with 5 min gap between. But all I can feel is those bits of skin getting pinched and more and more sore : ( ... they are getting quite calloused now, but I am not sure if I should push through this phase or if I am doing something wrong here...

Any one else have this issue? any/all advise welcome : ))

In reply to rock_fodder:

I wouldn't personally be hangboarding after 5-6 months of climbing for fear of getting injured, but I did recently start climbing indoors and know what you mean about skin pinching. I tape the pinched bits before they rip, and so far it's going OK. I'm pretty sure callouses are the long-term solution, but even these will come off occasionally.

In reply to rock_fodder:

Firstly, don't fingerboard for at least another 18 months.

Secondly, when you have ignored my first point, which I know you will (I would have too), why are you hanging on a hold for 4 minutes? Do you often climb routes that require you to hold a single hold for 4 minutes?
The kind of hold that makes it possible to hang for that long is probably the reason it pinches your skin, it's too big. You should be doing significantly shorter hangs (think seconds not minutes) on much smaller holds.

Google 'fingerboard repeaters' and then refer to my first point.

Pulley injuries are best treated with ice, anti-inflammatories, and gentle use, just saying.

In reply to rock_fodder:

+1 to everybody saying you shouldn't be fingerboarding yet.

And do you actually mean a single 4 minute hang? Daft idea.

There are two basic methods of fingerboard training: max hangs of ca 10 seconds, with added weight if necessary, with long rests and about +/- ten sets. Nowhere near four minutes total hang time unless you count the warm-up sets beforehand.

Repeaters: a common pattern is sets of 7 seconds hang 3 seconds rest x 6, couple of minutes rest between sets, 15 to 20 sets. In that case the total hang time is much more.

In reply to rock_fodder:

If you ask a new climber why they can't get a route they will usually say their fingers aren't strong enough. If you ask a really good climber they'll usually talk about far more subtle things like how they are gripping the hold, body position, core strength and flexibility.

Stronger fingers help but the first thing is to find a body position that gets more weight on your feet and loads the holds in a way they are good for.

In reply to humptydumpty:

I have not looked into tap for climbing - not seen anyone else using it but I will investigate that, thanks : )

In reply to Dandan:

Ok, after reading your post - and everyone else's! saying that 4 minute hang attempt is too long then I will take this advice : ) ... I got the idea reading about competitions lasting about 4 minutes and perhaps I incorrectly inferred that you need to be able to hang for this long.

The finger board repeaters look good : )

In reply to AlanLittle:

So, ok I got that it is a bad idea now, your repeater training pattern matches what I just looked up so I will try this.

I am guessing I will just do this on the jugs and slopes and not use the finger-hangs for now...

By the way.... why wait for 2 years before starting to use the finger board? - I have to do the same movement on some of the climbs (i.e. hang by my fingers) so why not train it? - can't seem to find the answer to this online.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Haha, yes, this is probably true... I just want to be stronger to force my way up a wall to get around the fact that I have no climbing skill :o

But I definitely take your point and will also try to focus on getting my legs more involved... something I am probably quite slack at.

In reply to rock_fodder:


Yes, but (like any sort of fingerboarding) they're generally not recommended until you've been climbing for at least a year.

In the first year or so, your fingers will get all the stimulus to get stronger they need from climbing regularly, and your tendons (which take longer to respond) need time to catch up and get to the point where they can handle extra stress.

That's why people are warning you that trying to fingerboard at this stage is setting yourself up for injury.


Okay, I'd be curious to know what videos and websites you've been looking at, because you seem to have ended up with some confusion and misconceptions.

In reply to rock_fodder:

A few possible solutions.

Use a different board with more rounded edges. Wood is kinder to the skin.

If you're getting callouses you might need to sand them down periodically. Using a skin cream can also soften the area.

Use finger tape on the sore parts.

Don't train right to failure. Step off just before.

4 minutes is really long. Change the exercise. Doing pull ups trains other muscles and thus more useful for climbing.

Try to do fewer sessions per week. Going bouldering would be far better for you if you have a decent indoor venue you could visit regularly.

In reply to rock_fodder:


This stuff is decent: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metolius-ME16805-Finger-Tape/dp/B001E6CNJA/

Surprised you haven't seen it - tape is common in all gyms I've been too!

In reply to humptydumpty:

Thanks for that... I have seen it loads - I even use it, but I meant I had not seen it on the climbing wall so much (or maybe just have not noticed it : )

In reply to rock_fodder:


The idea is you stick it to your fingers on the bits where callouses form - don't stick it to the wall...

In reply to rock_fodder:

Another aspect is to place your fingers / hands carefully on the holds to avoid the pinching. As a fairly new climber I would recommend, when putting your fingers onto a hold, focus on adjusting and refining how you use your fingers / hands to find the most efficient and effective grip. Tiny adjustments can make a big difference.

In reply to rock_fodder:


In that case you're definitely doing something wrong, and you need to learn more about footwork and body tension. Cutting loose with your feet should be controlled, brief - and rare.

In reply to rock_fodder:
Here's an idea, try to climb a steep 6a without bending your elbows. Seriously, if your elbow bends beyond about 10 degrees from straight, start again.
Think about your feet positions, how high they need to be, where in relation to your body they should be to propel you to the next hold, then use your core and the flexibility available in your shoulders to get your hand up to the next hold without just cranking in and bending the elbows to get yourself higher. Think about momentum too, use one hand as a pivot, push with your legs to swing yourself on a straight arm towards a hold, this directly uses the power in your legs (of which you have more than enough) instead of in your arms to move you up the wall.
Google 'drop knees' or 'egyptians' and 'step-throughs'.

This will be a much more rewarding use of your time, and should really make you think about the most efficient way to move between holds, a skill which works at every grade.
More efficient movement means less energy used which means you can climb further or harder, without a sniff of a fingerboard. plus you get to climb instead of dangling from a bit of wood...

EDIT: I should add that I have a fingerboard (2 in fact) but I spend more time doing easy footwork drills than I do hanging from my fingertips, practice what you preach and all that.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Ah ok, I don't think I was clear there... I meant that there are hand holds that are as shallow/small or even smaller then the ones on the hang board - but I am also using my feet. So you are right, its a good point, its really not the same as hanging purely from my fingers : )

In reply to Dandan:

really?... wow, lol I think I am probably doing the opposite of your advice - never a straight arm to be seen :o

Ok, seriously I will try this and lookup those moves in google thanks very much.

Seems my question has highlighted that I am doing stuff wrong, which is all good : )

In reply to rock_fodder:

With the skin hurting below your knuckles, sand your callouses with a nail file and use moisturiser on them. Then they won't hurt as much. Also, you won't pull the pads off as easily.