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Not having done masses of climbing I'd not really learnt to jam. This resulted in me getting very tired, pumped and angry on any sort of crack.
A couple of years ago I failed on the top part of Bond street - piss poor indeed ! Last year I fell off the file twice on lead, but dogged my way up it. Also last year I absolutely seiged Dexterity on lead - i don't think I actually used a single effective jam and felt like it was a constant battle.
Fast forward a year and first outing out on grit and trad - Higgar tor and the rematch - gotta admit I was really nervous and psyched out of my mind - I guessed I was gonna take a fall, but just how far up.
Started out and it all felt a bit like i'd remembered, then all of a sudden a couple of jams worked, cam in and I started to calm right down. Ok, so if you think about what you're actually doing and jam properly you can actually hang off jams ! Also jammed my feet as well in a couple of places - the file was suddenly turning into a bit of a romp.
Then I was at the top, couldn't believe it. Don't get me wrong I was a little pumped, but that was mainly as a result of being totally over psyched at the start ( I actually calmed down and got less tired as I moved up).
So if I did the file, what's next - no sandbags !!!! I wanna actually improve my crack climbing gradually.
Feeling pretty pleased with myself as The file is supposed to be a jamming testpiece - feel like I've past my driving test
A couple of years ago I failed on the top part of Bond street - piss poor indeed ! Last year I fell off the file twice on lead, but dogged my way up it. Also last year I absolutely seiged Dexterity on lead - i don't think I actually used a single effective jam and felt like it was a constant battle.
Fast forward a year and first outing out on grit and trad - Higgar tor and the rematch - gotta admit I was really nervous and psyched out of my mind - I guessed I was gonna take a fall, but just how far up.
Started out and it all felt a bit like i'd remembered, then all of a sudden a couple of jams worked, cam in and I started to calm right down. Ok, so if you think about what you're actually doing and jam properly you can actually hang off jams ! Also jammed my feet as well in a couple of places - the file was suddenly turning into a bit of a romp.
Then I was at the top, couldn't believe it. Don't get me wrong I was a little pumped, but that was mainly as a result of being totally over psyched at the start ( I actually calmed down and got less tired as I moved up).
So if I did the file, what's next - no sandbags !!!! I wanna actually improve my crack climbing gradually.
Feeling pretty pleased with myself as The file is supposed to be a jamming testpiece - feel like I've past my driving test
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Consolidate and stop dogging classics. Imagine how happy you could have been if you had waited until the File was a possibility onsight. Never pass a jam without using it... cracks, breaks whatever.
Consolidate and stop dogging classics. Imagine how happy you could have been if you had waited until the File was a possibility onsight. Never pass a jam without using it... cracks, breaks whatever.
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In reply to planetmarshall:
Good shouts both. Also try Broken Crack (HVS 5a) - this is a bit harder than the File. After that, the next obvious Peak route would be a re match on Bond Street.
Embankment 2 (VS 4c) also utilises a range of jams, fingers in one crack and hands/fists/feet in the other one.
Good shouts both. Also try Broken Crack (HVS 5a) - this is a bit harder than the File. After that, the next obvious Peak route would be a re match on Bond Street.
Embankment 2 (VS 4c) also utilises a range of jams, fingers in one crack and hands/fists/feet in the other one.
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In reply to LakesWinter:
I found the file WAY harder than broken crack!
To op, check out the Eastern Grit jamming tick list. Some brilliant routes on it.
I found the file WAY harder than broken crack!
To op, check out the Eastern Grit jamming tick list. Some brilliant routes on it.
In reply to andy.smythe:
That's weird coz I found it the other way round and onsighted the File and only got Broken Crack second go
That's weird coz I found it the other way round and onsighted the File and only got Broken Crack second go
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In reply to Ciderslider:
You have, Mark. Congratulations. There's no supposed about it - The File is a jamming testpiece.
Why not do this on the Stanage Popular classics? Even if many aren't jamming cracks per se, again and again you can slot in jams here and there (e.g. horizontal breaks). That gets you used to jamming on generally amenable routes.
Go back to Bond Street. It should be OK to the niche. I think there's a fingerlock to better holds (long time ago!)
And Dexterity - always felt this was worth E2 for effort. When I lived in Sheff, I never saw anyone else on it. Was a favourite route.
Again, good effort. You may be on a (rock and) roll!
Mick
> Feeling pretty pleased with myself as The file is supposed to be a jamming testpiece - feel like I've past my driving test...
You have, Mark. Congratulations. There's no supposed about it - The File is a jamming testpiece.
> So if I did the file, what's next - no sandbags !!!! I wanna actually improve my crack climbing gradually.
Why not do this on the Stanage Popular classics? Even if many aren't jamming cracks per se, again and again you can slot in jams here and there (e.g. horizontal breaks). That gets you used to jamming on generally amenable routes.
Go back to Bond Street. It should be OK to the niche. I think there's a fingerlock to better holds (long time ago!)
And Dexterity - always felt this was worth E2 for effort. When I lived in Sheff, I never saw anyone else on it. Was a favourite route.
Again, good effort. You may be on a (rock and) roll!
Mick
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Don't know if it'd be a good one straight after The File since I haven't done it, but on a recent mission to Baslow I noticed Jam and Blast It, which at E1 may not be too much of a stretch. Either way it looks the bollocks!
Don't know if it'd be a good one straight after The File since I haven't done it, but on a recent mission to Baslow I noticed Jam and Blast It, which at E1 may not be too much of a stretch. Either way it looks the bollocks!
In reply to Tom Last:
It's VS if you use the corner for your feet and maybe just soft HVS if you climb the crack solely with blinkers on. How did it ever get E1?!
> but on a recent mission to Baslow I noticed Jam and Blast It, which at E1 may not be too much of a stretch. Either way it looks the bollocks!
It's VS if you use the corner for your feet and maybe just soft HVS if you climb the crack solely with blinkers on. How did it ever get E1?!
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Get thee to Hen Cloud. At the moment, the magnificent Delstree (HVS 5a) is bird-banned, but the even better Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) isn't, and it's one of the very best routes on grit - it's a monster. Then there's Hen Cloud Eliminate (HVS 5b) but that's even harder than BLH, so a right bastard.
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b) is only gnat's away from the quality of BLH, another absolute belter. More jugs and less jamming too (but you do need to jam to get up the thing).
Get thee to Hen Cloud. At the moment, the magnificent Delstree (HVS 5a) is bird-banned, but the even better Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) isn't, and it's one of the very best routes on grit - it's a monster. Then there's Hen Cloud Eliminate (HVS 5b) but that's even harder than BLH, so a right bastard.
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b) is only gnat's away from the quality of BLH, another absolute belter. More jugs and less jamming too (but you do need to jam to get up the thing).
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Roof route at rivelin. Little inominate. Avalanche wall @ curbar. terazza crack. All of exodus wall @ stanage. Broken crack, hawks nest crack. diamond crack at froggatt. All good fum ☺
Roof route at rivelin. Little inominate. Avalanche wall @ curbar. terazza crack. All of exodus wall @ stanage. Broken crack, hawks nest crack. diamond crack at froggatt. All good fum ☺
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In reply to Ciderslider:
a trip to the Cromlech. ivy sepulchre and cenotaph... then off to cloggy. the rock and ice were very good at jamming...
a trip to the Cromlech. ivy sepulchre and cenotaph... then off to cloggy. the rock and ice were very good at jamming...
In reply to Ciderslider:
There are loads of short routes at Burbage North that can be done with lots of jamming. I've soloed lots there and I only solo routes where I can jam a lot as for me that's safer, but I led Greeny Crack and Brooks Layback last night and both have plenty of jamming in them. But really most of the classic routes up to VS are cracks so there's loads of places to practice jamming. Try Obscenity at Burbage as a comparison to the File.
Really the vast majority of grit routes around VS have plenty of possibilities to jam, you just need to be happy to use them!
There are loads of short routes at Burbage North that can be done with lots of jamming. I've soloed lots there and I only solo routes where I can jam a lot as for me that's safer, but I led Greeny Crack and Brooks Layback last night and both have plenty of jamming in them. But really most of the classic routes up to VS are cracks so there's loads of places to practice jamming. Try Obscenity at Burbage as a comparison to the File.
Really the vast majority of grit routes around VS have plenty of possibilities to jam, you just need to be happy to use them!
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In reply to TobyA:
I now try to do ( repeat ) routes without jamming , especially grit classics.
Jams feel so secure, I force myself to do without to improve my other techniques which are probably lacking due to my natural tendency to jam.
A landmark in jamming proficiency is when you prefer a jam to a jug.
> where I can jam a lot as for me that's safer,
I now try to do ( repeat ) routes without jamming , especially grit classics.
Jams feel so secure, I force myself to do without to improve my other techniques which are probably lacking due to my natural tendency to jam.
A landmark in jamming proficiency is when you prefer a jam to a jug.
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In reply to TobyA:
Ah right, hadn't thought of that - looks good though.
E1 in the BMC guide I think.
Ah right, hadn't thought of that - looks good though.
E1 in the BMC guide I think.
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In reply to Ciderslider:
I'm not sure you can say you jam until you're happy on the Wimberry classics e.g. Freddies Finale. The cracks in Chew Valley have teeth...
I'm not sure you can say you jam until you're happy on the Wimberry classics e.g. Freddies Finale. The cracks in Chew Valley have teeth...
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In reply to Offwidth:
Mark hasn't got that amount of time left - he can't afford to wait for a route
Mark hasn't got that amount of time left - he can't afford to wait for a route
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In reply to Ciderslider:
We'll have a day at Millstone next time you're up.... Get you on all the Embankments! Maybe don't try warming up on Dexterity this time though
We'll have a day at Millstone next time you're up.... Get you on all the Embankments! Maybe don't try warming up on Dexterity this time though
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Great Harry (VS 4c)
Should go down like a house of cards with your new jamming prowess.
Great Harry (VS 4c)
Should go down like a house of cards with your new jamming prowess.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Nice one. It's a great feeling when you can really trust your jams and hang off them. For some mild fist jamming practice try Cardinal's Crack (VS 4b) using only the crack.
Nice one. It's a great feeling when you can really trust your jams and hang off them. For some mild fist jamming practice try Cardinal's Crack (VS 4b) using only the crack.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Once yon can do grit HVS jamming, go to Fair Head, which has the best crack climbing in the UK. Get on the classic HVSs and E1 there - typically good gear and lots of jamming.
Once yon can do grit HVS jamming, go to Fair Head, which has the best crack climbing in the UK. Get on the classic HVSs and E1 there - typically good gear and lots of jamming.
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In reply to alasdair19:
Cenotaph is more about bridging. Grind, on the other hand, is a superb jamming test piece.
Cenotaph is more about bridging. Grind, on the other hand, is a superb jamming test piece.
In reply to charley:
Hmm... jammin'... fingerlocks, all the same, innit?
Yep! A seriously bad idea for nearly everyone.
Mick
> Get you on all the Embankments!
Hmm... jammin'... fingerlocks, all the same, innit?
> Maybe don't try warming up on Dexterity this time though
Yep! A seriously bad idea for nearly everyone.
Mick
In reply to Misha:
Perhaps one grinds one's way up Grond!? (Shockingly, I still don't know.)
Mick
> Grind, on the other hand, is a superb jamming test piece.
Perhaps one grinds one's way up Grond!? (Shockingly, I still don't know.)
Mick
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In reply to charley:
I genuinely admire his enthusisam but tackling popular grit classics by siege with multiple falls is a bad idea. I know its unfashionable to say this but gritstone is not indestructable. Classic route cam placements are already trashed by this mentality at softer grits like Birchen and if you look some mid-grade routes at Stanage the rock is starting to go. I'd rather people top roped damaged routes than try and onsight them with no real chance of success. There are rock types where 'force of will' is never an issue and all sorts of measures to improve on grit other than this. Even if one hates training and diet, just get in volume below ones best, or second a lot of harder routes... grit has these opportunities in spades.
I genuinely admire his enthusisam but tackling popular grit classics by siege with multiple falls is a bad idea. I know its unfashionable to say this but gritstone is not indestructable. Classic route cam placements are already trashed by this mentality at softer grits like Birchen and if you look some mid-grade routes at Stanage the rock is starting to go. I'd rather people top roped damaged routes than try and onsight them with no real chance of success. There are rock types where 'force of will' is never an issue and all sorts of measures to improve on grit other than this. Even if one hates training and diet, just get in volume below ones best, or second a lot of harder routes... grit has these opportunities in spades.
Post edited at 10:06
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In reply to Offwidth:
I suspect the fact that Ciderslider lives his climbing experiences through UKC reportage (and likes to ham up the dramatic elements) probably gives the impression of a serial route dogger far more than is really the case.
Most climbers regularly select routes that they know will be a challenge (I certainly do), this is very different to attempting routes with "no real chance of success", we all have our successes and failures and in that lies the road to improvement.
I reckon CS takes these routes on with the best of onsight intentions, but the best laid plans don't always pan out ...and once a line has repelled an attempt (but feels within your capabilities) a return match is understandable.
I appreciate that the grit needs to be looked after and cam placements in particular can be damaging, and it is certainly a good thing to keep bringing this to climbers attention (because I am sure there are much worse offenders than CS out there).
But I believe you are rather demonising a regular climber here - there is a big difference between dogging a route by taking a rest or two on solid nuts and taking multiple whippers onto marginal cams - it is not fair to assume that CS is doing the latter.
I suspect the fact that Ciderslider lives his climbing experiences through UKC reportage (and likes to ham up the dramatic elements) probably gives the impression of a serial route dogger far more than is really the case.
Most climbers regularly select routes that they know will be a challenge (I certainly do), this is very different to attempting routes with "no real chance of success", we all have our successes and failures and in that lies the road to improvement.
I reckon CS takes these routes on with the best of onsight intentions, but the best laid plans don't always pan out ...and once a line has repelled an attempt (but feels within your capabilities) a return match is understandable.
I appreciate that the grit needs to be looked after and cam placements in particular can be damaging, and it is certainly a good thing to keep bringing this to climbers attention (because I am sure there are much worse offenders than CS out there).
But I believe you are rather demonising a regular climber here - there is a big difference between dogging a route by taking a rest or two on solid nuts and taking multiple whippers onto marginal cams - it is not fair to assume that CS is doing the latter.
Post edited at 11:30
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In reply to Ciderslider:
You know you've mastered jamming, when you can do The Vice at Stanage without whimpering, and without leaving most of your hands behind when - and if - you get to the top
You know you've mastered jamming, when you can do The Vice at Stanage without whimpering, and without leaving most of your hands behind when - and if - you get to the top
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In reply to Mick Ward:
You should never grind up Grond, it's a lovely wee thing - and actually not as hard as it's reputation used to infer
> Perhaps one grinds one's way up Grond!? (Shockingly, I still don't know.)
> Mick
You should never grind up Grond, it's a lovely wee thing - and actually not as hard as it's reputation used to infer
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In reply to The Ivanator:
I'm not demonising I'm pointing out the dubious ethics of trying to brute force up grit jamming classics for everyone. Respect the routes and learn to jam first please.
I'm not demonising I'm pointing out the dubious ethics of trying to brute force up grit jamming classics for everyone. Respect the routes and learn to jam first please.
Post edited at 12:33
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Also at VS 4c is Plumb Line at Running Hill Pits - a *** jamming classic but not so well-known.
Central Crack at Wilton 3 (HVS 5a).
And the very well-known Flake Crack VS 4c at Helsby.
On several of the routes mentioned, like Bond Street and Dexterity, the jamming section is really the easy bit, with a harder crux where the jams disappear. Hen Cloud, as mentioned by others, and the Roaches also have a number of worthwhile crack climbs. When you think you've cracked it move on to Ramshaw and be humbled...
Of others mentioned:
- Saul's Crack: I suspect a lot of people layback the crux as it's very tight for my size of hands
- Hen Cloud Eliminate - another with a crux where jams disappear
- Roof Route (Rivelin) - no, no, no, a terrible experience
- Climbers Club Direct - yes, yes, yes, another classic
If you're based in the south you should really pay a visit to High Rocks - several classic crack climbs, like Coronation Crack, on rock that is more forgiving to the hands than gritstone.
Best of all in my experience for jamming cracks is Turkey Rocks but that's in Colorado!
Also at VS 4c is Plumb Line at Running Hill Pits - a *** jamming classic but not so well-known.
Central Crack at Wilton 3 (HVS 5a).
And the very well-known Flake Crack VS 4c at Helsby.
On several of the routes mentioned, like Bond Street and Dexterity, the jamming section is really the easy bit, with a harder crux where the jams disappear. Hen Cloud, as mentioned by others, and the Roaches also have a number of worthwhile crack climbs. When you think you've cracked it move on to Ramshaw and be humbled...
Of others mentioned:
- Saul's Crack: I suspect a lot of people layback the crux as it's very tight for my size of hands
- Hen Cloud Eliminate - another with a crux where jams disappear
- Roof Route (Rivelin) - no, no, no, a terrible experience
- Climbers Club Direct - yes, yes, yes, another classic
If you're based in the south you should really pay a visit to High Rocks - several classic crack climbs, like Coronation Crack, on rock that is more forgiving to the hands than gritstone.
Best of all in my experience for jamming cracks is Turkey Rocks but that's in Colorado!
In reply to Ciderslider:
I forgot the best jamming crack of the lot, Herford's Crack in Cwm Idwal - absolutely brilliant and first climbed in about 1912! It gets HVS 5a though if you can hand-jam it's more like easy VS.
I forgot the best jamming crack of the lot, Herford's Crack in Cwm Idwal - absolutely brilliant and first climbed in about 1912! It gets HVS 5a though if you can hand-jam it's more like easy VS.
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In reply to Offwidth:
Mark does respect the routes (just trust me on this one, OK?) If anything, he idolises them! And he is eager to learn - thus this thread. The problem is, as I found on the crack on the Cwm Glas boulder in 1971, if you can't jam a pure jamming crack, you're buggered. That's why I think it may (emphasise 'may') be easier for him to get better at jamming at Stanage Pop, where many routes have a jam or two but it's not so darned unrelenting. The alternative is for him to go out cragging with some wizened old grit aficionado who'll just give an A, B, C of jamming. "Tha' does eet laike this, lad..."
Mick
> Respect the routes and learn to jam first please.
Mark does respect the routes (just trust me on this one, OK?) If anything, he idolises them! And he is eager to learn - thus this thread. The problem is, as I found on the crack on the Cwm Glas boulder in 1971, if you can't jam a pure jamming crack, you're buggered. That's why I think it may (emphasise 'may') be easier for him to get better at jamming at Stanage Pop, where many routes have a jam or two but it's not so darned unrelenting. The alternative is for him to go out cragging with some wizened old grit aficionado who'll just give an A, B, C of jamming. "Tha' does eet laike this, lad..."
Mick
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In reply to Goucho:
Ooh you're selling it to me! It certainly had a big rep among my mates in Yorkshire in the mid-70s. If I remember correctly, their ascents typically featured vain attempts to thead a chockstone and considerable runouts at the top when they'd used all their big hexes - usually two. I'm guessing big(ger) cams make things much more enjoyable.
My own memory is just after my then 8 1/2 stones stopped about 14+ stones of Jim Erickson slipping over the edge, just right of Cenotaph. (That would have been appropriate for us!) Seemingly nonplussed, he looked up at Grond and said, "Well you could lead that." "But I've got nothing bigger than a Moac..." I wailed pitifully. "That's OK," he casually replied. "You don't really need anything - I've soloed it!" (which he had). Drowning in unreality (and adrenaline overload), I could feel hysterical laughter bubbling to the surface. Thankfully managed to repress it. We abbed off and did The Thing instead.
I promise not to grind up Grond. It will be seduced, not brutalised - but I want some nice big cams grinning at me at regular intervals.
Mick
> You should never grind up Grond, it's a lovely wee thing - and actually not as hard as it's reputation used to infer
Ooh you're selling it to me! It certainly had a big rep among my mates in Yorkshire in the mid-70s. If I remember correctly, their ascents typically featured vain attempts to thead a chockstone and considerable runouts at the top when they'd used all their big hexes - usually two. I'm guessing big(ger) cams make things much more enjoyable.
My own memory is just after my then 8 1/2 stones stopped about 14+ stones of Jim Erickson slipping over the edge, just right of Cenotaph. (That would have been appropriate for us!) Seemingly nonplussed, he looked up at Grond and said, "Well you could lead that." "But I've got nothing bigger than a Moac..." I wailed pitifully. "That's OK," he casually replied. "You don't really need anything - I've soloed it!" (which he had). Drowning in unreality (and adrenaline overload), I could feel hysterical laughter bubbling to the surface. Thankfully managed to repress it. We abbed off and did The Thing instead.
I promise not to grind up Grond. It will be seduced, not brutalised - but I want some nice big cams grinning at me at regular intervals.
Mick
In reply to Offwidth:
I never get on a route with the intention of deliberately falling off of it and I'll always try my absolute best to climb a route cleanly. Jamming is a part of my climbing that I have been trying to get better at and as a result I've tried some jamming cracks in order to try to improve.
If you look at my logbook I think you'll see that I don't dog large numbers of routes. I do like to try hard and sometimes that might result in me failing/falling.
And as was pointed out, yes I suppose I do ham it up a bit from time to time (don't we all ??) but I can assure you that my idea of a seige is hardly that, at best it might be a fall and a couple of rests but that's about it.
I never get on a route with the intention of deliberately falling off of it and I'll always try my absolute best to climb a route cleanly. Jamming is a part of my climbing that I have been trying to get better at and as a result I've tried some jamming cracks in order to try to improve.
If you look at my logbook I think you'll see that I don't dog large numbers of routes. I do like to try hard and sometimes that might result in me failing/falling.
And as was pointed out, yes I suppose I do ham it up a bit from time to time (don't we all ??) but I can assure you that my idea of a seige is hardly that, at best it might be a fall and a couple of rests but that's about it.
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In reply to Ciderslider:
Hi Mark,
You should get your self over to Hen Cloud mate, loads of good cracks there. Bachelor's Climb (VS 4c) is pretty testing for VS
That climbers club direct on Dartmoor is pretty awesome too
HVS grit cracks get pretty nails so try and pick off the easier ones and harder ones at VS
Stevo
Hi Mark,
You should get your self over to Hen Cloud mate, loads of good cracks there. Bachelor's Climb (VS 4c) is pretty testing for VS
That climbers club direct on Dartmoor is pretty awesome too
HVS grit cracks get pretty nails so try and pick off the easier ones and harder ones at VS
Stevo
In reply to Ciderslider:
Ellis's Eliminate (VS 4c) at Stanage popular is a great test of horizontal jamming in a break. Basically, if you choose to hang the break, you'll be off.
Valkyrie (HVS 5a) at Froggatt has a brilliant slippy crack on the first pitch. One of my most memorable battles.
Oh, there's Brooks' Crack (HVS 5a) too. The overhanging crack at the top! Hard at HVS I think
Ellis's Eliminate (VS 4c) at Stanage popular is a great test of horizontal jamming in a break. Basically, if you choose to hang the break, you'll be off.
Valkyrie (HVS 5a) at Froggatt has a brilliant slippy crack on the first pitch. One of my most memorable battles.
Oh, there's Brooks' Crack (HVS 5a) too. The overhanging crack at the top! Hard at HVS I think
Post edited at 20:18
In reply to Rob Davies:
I'd also recommend Herfords and its more like a solid VS Peak grit crack (easy if you find The File easy). You can also layback it which spoils things a little.
I'd also recommend Herfords and its more like a solid VS Peak grit crack (easy if you find The File easy). You can also layback it which spoils things a little.
In reply to Ciderslider:
If you are hamming thats OK; sadly others don't and they are trashing great routes. Best of luck anyhow.
If you are serious about improvement in jamming, I think you should dump the rope and search out the journey to tough 5b jamming problems, after those, HVS will be a path. My old UKC recommendation of the Curbar work-out would do.... lead then boulder Dog Leg Crack until you can lap it solo then repeat for Little Innominate... listening to Mick would also help.
If you are hamming thats OK; sadly others don't and they are trashing great routes. Best of luck anyhow.
If you are serious about improvement in jamming, I think you should dump the rope and search out the journey to tough 5b jamming problems, after those, HVS will be a path. My old UKC recommendation of the Curbar work-out would do.... lead then boulder Dog Leg Crack until you can lap it solo then repeat for Little Innominate... listening to Mick would also help.
Post edited at 02:08
In reply to Misha:
Worth a shout also - Neist, Kilt Rock and the Staffin area of the Isle of Skye also offer some great crack climbs in incredible locations.
just looked at the Fair Head profile, looks amazing! Though Skye is nearer for me but one day.
Worth a shout also - Neist, Kilt Rock and the Staffin area of the Isle of Skye also offer some great crack climbs in incredible locations.
just looked at the Fair Head profile, looks amazing! Though Skye is nearer for me but one day.
In reply to Cake:
Saul's Arête (VS 4c), also at Stanage, offers more of the same but slightly harder and a bit more intimidating.
Good call.
If you've never done it before, I'd suggest being a little bit selfish and leading the whole route as a single pitch. (On double ropes!)
> Ellis's Eliminate (VS 4c) at Stanage popular is a great test of horizontal jamming in a break. Basically, if you choose to hang the break, you'll be off.
Saul's Arête (VS 4c), also at Stanage, offers more of the same but slightly harder and a bit more intimidating.
> Valkyrie (HVS 5a) at Froggatt has a brilliant slippy crack on the first pitch. One of my most memorable battles.
Good call.
If you've never done it before, I'd suggest being a little bit selfish and leading the whole route as a single pitch. (On double ropes!)
In reply to Ciderslider:
Phoenix Climb (VS) and Pisa Superdirect (HVS) at Shining Clough fit the bill.
You could add Legacy (HVS) at Ashop Edge if you've got a yen to start fist jamming
Phoenix Climb (VS) and Pisa Superdirect (HVS) at Shining Clough fit the bill.
You could add Legacy (HVS) at Ashop Edge if you've got a yen to start fist jamming
In reply to deepsoup:
Valkyrie is just the type of thing mark should leave until he's perfected the easier HVS (and harder VS) jamming cracks (if we want to avoid dogging / falls )
Valkyrie is just the type of thing mark should leave until he's perfected the easier HVS (and harder VS) jamming cracks (if we want to avoid dogging / falls )
In reply to Ciderslider:
A few more to your list:
Fern Crack, Exodus, Deuteronomy at Stanage
Shaftesbury Avenue at Millstone
Nowanda, Biven's Crack at Gardoms
A few more to your list:
Fern Crack, Exodus, Deuteronomy at Stanage
Shaftesbury Avenue at Millstone
Nowanda, Biven's Crack at Gardoms
Post edited at 13:38
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Fair point, you may be right about that.
On the subject of Froggatt I did Broken Crack (HVS 5a) for the first time today, no idea how I managed to miss a Froggatt VS that is so obviously my cup of tea all this time, it even gets a couple of stars! It's a great little route - good clean well protected thuggy jammy fun. Worth putting on the list!
Fair point, you may be right about that.
On the subject of Froggatt I did Broken Crack (HVS 5a) for the first time today, no idea how I managed to miss a Froggatt VS that is so obviously my cup of tea all this time, it even gets a couple of stars! It's a great little route - good clean well protected thuggy jammy fun. Worth putting on the list!
In reply to Kirill:
Exodus is a good'un, but Deuteronomy is a horrible, unjammable crack. Flared off-finger nonsense, no proper jams. And overhanging - nails!
> Exodus, Deuteronomy at Stanage
Exodus is a good'un, but Deuteronomy is a horrible, unjammable crack. Flared off-finger nonsense, no proper jams. And overhanging - nails!
Post edited at 00:19
In reply to deepsoup:
Broken crack has been mentioned a few times - it's a good climb and plenty of jamming
Broken crack has been mentioned a few times - it's a good climb and plenty of jamming
In reply to Jimbo C:
I fell off it last weekend, thought I was just totally out of shape, but glad to hear other people think its tough! The crack was and inconvenient size for my hands and I thought the move up at top where the crack closes down was also hard.
I fell off it last weekend, thought I was just totally out of shape, but glad to hear other people think its tough! The crack was and inconvenient size for my hands and I thought the move up at top where the crack closes down was also hard.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Well, last summer when I was fitter (and probably lighter as I was bike commuting daily), I reckon I still was only about 50/50 on gritstone HVSs. For all the ones I onsighted with out too much drama; Little Unconquerable, Brook's Crack, Great North Road, Lancashire Wall, Sorrell's Sorrow there were others where I got thoroughly spanked - Tower Crack I'm looking at you! So Nowanda just goes down with those hard HVSs in my book.
Well, last summer when I was fitter (and probably lighter as I was bike commuting daily), I reckon I still was only about 50/50 on gritstone HVSs. For all the ones I onsighted with out too much drama; Little Unconquerable, Brook's Crack, Great North Road, Lancashire Wall, Sorrell's Sorrow there were others where I got thoroughly spanked - Tower Crack I'm looking at you! So Nowanda just goes down with those hard HVSs in my book.
In reply to TobyA:
Yes, Tower Crack is a good shout! Good jamming practice, in learn hard - fight easy kind of way
Yes, Tower Crack is a good shout! Good jamming practice, in learn hard - fight easy kind of way
1
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I'd agree HVS 5B for Nowanda but I think a harder grade than that for a short and perfectly protected climb is a bit OTT.
I'd agree HVS 5B for Nowanda but I think a harder grade than that for a short and perfectly protected climb is a bit OTT.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Fair enough, I guess it is quite benign in that you can get a lot of gear into it quickly but, yes - tough moves!
Fair enough, I guess it is quite benign in that you can get a lot of gear into it quickly but, yes - tough moves!
In reply to Kirill:
It wasn't the jamming that got me on Tower it was trying to get onto that slopey scoop thing where the crack closes down and its grubby and grassy. About a 1.5 mtr above me in the photo in this review http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7797 If anyone has tips on how to get onto that scope I'd love to hear!
It wasn't the jamming that got me on Tower it was trying to get onto that slopey scoop thing where the crack closes down and its grubby and grassy. About a 1.5 mtr above me in the photo in this review http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7797 If anyone has tips on how to get onto that scope I'd love to hear!
In reply to GrahamD:
If you compare Nowanda with its E1 5b neighbour to the right, then HVS 5a start to seem generous.
If you compare Nowanda with its E1 5b neighbour to the right, then HVS 5a start to seem generous.
In reply to Offwidth:
A few years ago I was climbing for a couple of days with a young Israeli guy on one of the BMC International meets - he was very fit and out of my league, so to level up the playing field a little I kept pointing him at cracks, which he didn't have much idea of how to climb. Well, he led Herford's Crack by laybacking and using face holds, but he made it look about E3!
A few years ago I was climbing for a couple of days with a young Israeli guy on one of the BMC International meets - he was very fit and out of my league, so to level up the playing field a little I kept pointing him at cracks, which he didn't have much idea of how to climb. Well, he led Herford's Crack by laybacking and using face holds, but he made it look about E3!
1
In reply to Rob Davies:
Jams?Stoney Middleton,Fee Fi Fo Fum,hvs r of Bitterfingers.Minus Ten hvs and Medusa hvs /E1,right of Wee Doris.All belters.And Carl's Wark Crack E2+,good on t r or lead.
Jams?Stoney Middleton,Fee Fi Fo Fum,hvs r of Bitterfingers.Minus Ten hvs and Medusa hvs /E1,right of Wee Doris.All belters.And Carl's Wark Crack E2+,good on t r or lead.
Post edited at 10:48
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